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Armarium Resort 2026 Collection

Armarium Resort 2026 Collection

Vogue28-05-2025
'Vespera is not an ending, but a beginning. It is the moment before something happens. It is the stillness before the wave,' wrote Giorgia Gabriele in the collection notes for Armarium's resort 2026 lookbook. Vespera, the Latin word for evening, is an exploration of the night as a suspended dimension on the edge of the unconscious. The garments do not suggest transformation, but revelation; they are designed for women seeking an uninhibited way to express themselves. For the first time, Gabriele has presented a wardrobe entirely dedicated to nightwear in all its variations, yet one that is crafted to be worn effortlessly throughout the day. The pieces are defined less by function and more by mood.
'I like to observe women and the way they engage with the world, but sometimes that leads me to overlook my own inner dimension,' said Gabriele. 'This season, there were no external influences—it is profoundly personal, even in the way it conveys a kind of confidence that should be embraced not only when the light begins to dim.'
A distilled expression of the collection is a black sheath dress studded with tubular glass and crystal fringe: the open back is closed with fabric panels constructed like origami. Bra straps are used as laces on the back of boxy jackets, allowing the fit to be adjusted and the silhouette to shift. Collar bars, traditionally hidden on men's shirts, are exposed and transformed into jewelry. Tuxedos and flared leather skirts, ultra-light knit dresses, and inside-out constructions— the tension between structure and sensuality is palpable.
The color palette moves between anthracite gray and glossy silver, rich black and buttery tones, punctuated by a vivid red—used for the first time in a striped poplin—and touches of oxford blue. New jewelry includes the mussel-shell brooch and a twisted rope parure. The season's footwear highlights include a deeply cut ballerina lined in suede, an ultra-bare sandal, and an ankle-strap pump.
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