Do eye-tightening creams work? Dermatologists give us a candid view
Maybe you've seen the videos. A middle-aged woman (or man!) stares into the camera bare-faced, heavy eye wrinkles and undereye bags evident and on display. Then, with a swoosh of a tightening eye cream, and within literal seconds, the entire area appears smooth and lifted, as if the skin there has aged backward by 10 years. It all looks a bit like magic, leaving many of us wondering: Could these products actually work?
"Yes," says New York-based board-certified dermatologist Dr. Noah Gratch. "Tightening eye creams can help make the under eye area appear firmer. These creams typically contain ingredients like peptides or caffeine, which work to firm the skin and reduce the appearance of blood vessels, resulting in a smoother look."
While tightening eye creams are effective at rapidly minimizing puffiness and smoothing lines, it's important to note that the magical result you'll see is brief — those fresh-as-a-daisy eyes have a quick expiration date; your skin-miracle carriage will turn back into a regular ol' wrinkly pumpkin by the end of the night. According to Gratch, "The effects of eye creams are short-term, typically lasting from a few hours to up to 12 hours." To combat this, he suggests using tightening creams in tandem with a longer-term hydrating or firming creams which can improve skin tone and texture for lengthier periods. "Instant tightening creams provide temporary results that last for a few hours, while hydration creams can keep the skin moisturized for several hours. Firming creams require regular use over time to see long-term results."
Of course, when choosing any kind of skin care, seeking out trusted brands with products made from high-quality ingredients is key: "Many eye creams are glorified moisturizers," says Dr. Brendan Camp, board-certified dermatologist of MDCS Dermatology. "But some are formulated with ingredients that encourage collagen production. Collagen is a structural protein that keeps skin firm; maintaining collagen levels in skin helps limit the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and crepey skin."
Whichever eye cream you choose — tightening, hydrating, firming or some combination of the three — Camp instructs, "The effects of eye treatments will last longer if used in combination with sun avoidance and maintaining a healthy lifestyle, such as getting adequate sleep, maintaining a healthy diet and exercising regularly."
The following ingredients are not only recommended by dermatologists, they're clinically proven to help improve the appearance of myriad under-eye skin issues, including fine lines, crepey texture, puffiness and discoloration.
Vitamin C: "Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects skin from free oxygen radicals, which are unstable oxygen molecules that contribute to the formation of fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots, The use of vitamin C is also associated with improved collagen production," says Camp.
Retinol: Camp explains: "Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that, over time, helps to improve skin texture by regulating skin cell turnover and keeping skin firm and warding off wrinkles by encouraging collagen production."
Hyaluronic acid "This ingredient hydrates the skin and helps reduce fine lines," says Gratch.
Peptides: Every expert I spoke with recommended eye creams with peptides to promote collagen production and help strengthen delicate eye skin.
Caffeine: "Caffeine is commonly used in formulas to constrict blood vessels, reducing puffiness and dark circles, while improving circulation around the eyes," explains Gratch.
Squalane: This popular skin care ingredient (a fatty oil that's often derived from plants) helps drier undereye skin lock in moisture and maintain hydration.
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