How Middle Eastern enthusiasts are redefining the world of luxury watchmaking

The National

13-03-2025

A new wave of Middle Eastern collectors is transforming the global luxury watch industry, infusing it with fresh perspectives and helping redefine high-end watchmaking. With an eye for craftsmanship, a respect for cultural heritage and an appetite for exclusivity, these collectors are influencing the evolution of luxury timepieces – merging Swiss precision with design elements rooted in regional identity. Their growing presence is amplifying demand for rare and bespoke watches, as well as fostering a fusion of tradition and innovation that is reshaping the watch industry. The Middle East has long been a key market for luxury goods, and high-end timepieces are no exception. The region's collectors – from the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Kuwait – are known by watchmakers to be among the most discerning, seeking out limited-editions, bespoke creations and heritage pieces that tell a story. 'Dubai is again affirming its status as the premier marketplace for rare and extraordinary timepieces in the region,' explains Remy Julia, head of watches, Christie's Middle East. 'The deep-rooted relationships nurtured with collectors here and further afield are pivotal, yet it's the market's richness, cultivated over decades and notably propelled by commissions from royal houses and ministries, that truly sets it apart.' Valued at about $15.85 billion today, the Middle Eastern luxury market is anticipated to reach close to $31.7 billion by 2030. This expansion is being propelled by the increasing affluence and evolving consumer preferences in key markets such as the UAE and Saudi Arabia, according to a report by Boston Consulting Group. 'What might be considered a small collector here would be regarded as a major collector elsewhere,' says H Moser & Cie chief executive Edouard Meylan. For more than a century, Swiss watchmaking has been the gold standard in precision and artistry. Brands such as Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Breitling and Tag Heuer remain aspirational symbols in the world of watchmaking. However, the new wave of Middle Eastern collectors is pushing maisons to go beyond technical mastery, encouraging the integration of personal and cultural elements into their designs. Unlike mainstream collectors in other markets who may focus on brand prestige alone, Middle Eastern buyers are curating collections that reflect their personal narratives. Whether it's through calligraphic engravings, intricate enamel work, or timepieces inspired by the Middle East, this demand for cultural resonance has led to a rise in collaborations between Swiss maisons and regional designers – which includes Reservoir working with Emirati artist Abdulla Lutfi. A prominent trend involves embedding dials with Arabic numerals or regional collaborations. Others feature motifs inspired by traditional Middle Eastern symbols crafted in precious metals and gemstones such as the Rolex Day-Date or the latest Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. These elements not only imbue the timepieces with symbolic meaning but also transform them into wearable art. Beyond simply owning a rare reference, collectors are commissioning one-of-a-kind timepieces that are tailored to their exact specifications. Swiss watchmakers have responded with ultra-personalised services, with brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre allowing clients to modify everything from dial aesthetics to case engravings. Through this service, bespoke designs based on a photograph, a sketch or an idea can be commissioned. Some maisons now offer private ateliers that are dedicated to these bespoke requests, crafting limited-run or unique pieces that integrate Arabic numerals, regional motifs, or even custom complications that resonate with the collector's heritage. High jewellery elements, such as diamond-encrusted bezels or emerald-set crowns, further enhance the allure of these exceptional creations. Middle Eastern collectors are not only impacting local markets, but are also influencing global design and consumer preferences. International brands are increasingly incorporating cultural motifs into their collections, tapping into a broader appreciation for diversity and heritage in watchmaking. At the same time, this demand has sparked a renewed interest in traditional artisanal techniques, from hand-engraving to guilloche and cloisonne enamel work, ensuring that these time-honoured crafts continue to thrive in an industry that is often driven by technological innovation. Middle Eastern collectors are not just acquiring watches; they are actively shaping the future of haute horology, and industry events such as Dubai Watch Week are proof of that. Their affinity for storytelling, craftsmanship and exclusivity has pushed watchmakers to explore new creative possibilities, bridging the gap between Swiss expertise and cultural identity. In doing so, they are ensuring that luxury watchmaking remains as relevant and meaningful as ever, seamlessly weaving together past, present and future in the art of timekeeping.