Why not try these cracking wines this Easter?

Independent

13-04-2025

I am not religious, but I find Easter utterly joyous, and I'm going to call it: I think it's better than Christmas.
Please don't misunderstand me – I'm not a grinch. I adore Christmas and all its warmth and excess. But Easter is just a bit more laid back. Your diary isn't rammed back to back with 'pre-Easter' catch-ups. Instead, your social calendar can just remain calm and measured – as blissfully busy, or not, as you like.
You don't haemorrhage your meager savings in gift-buying either. A Lindt chocolate bunny will leave you with enough change from a fiver to buy a bag of Mini Eggs or a Creme Egg – all three of which are a happy tick from me.
And, in an entirely unscientific survey amongst friends, it seems I'm not alone. Many cited how much more 'relaxing' it was, that the bonus two days of bank holidays feel more indulgent than those at Christmas, and that if you have family stresses, there is minimal expectation to actually spend any time with them. It's a holiday that you can very much do on your own terms, without the pressure to please anyone else.
And I haven't even mentioned the time of year that it takes place. It's the northern hemisphere's moment of absolute promise. I don't know about you, but the fizzing energy of spring is utterly intoxicating. I can't get enough of the sense of hope that's in the air (even through the mire of the two T's, Trump and tariffs).
I find it fascinating that Easter never had the 19th-century makeover in the way that Christmas did. Why did one become the symbol of secular 'family time', a respectable moment for the burgeoning middle class, and the other just fade away?
I think it's largely attributable to the fact that Easter didn't receive the literary freshening that Christmas did. If you think about it, many of our notions about Christmas are rooted in 19th-century novels, such as Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol, and Clement Clarke Moore's The Night Before Christmas.
Prior to that, both Christmas and Easter were admonished by puritans with one particularly joyful New England preacher, Cotton Mather, saying, 'the feast of Christ's nativity is spent in revelling, dicing, carding, masking, and in all licentious liberty... by mad mirth, by long eating, by hard drinking, by lewd gaming, by rude revelling!' That all sounds rather excellent to me.
I like to think we can bring a little of this 'mad mirth' to Easter, too, but in a beautifully laid-back, chocolate egg-fuelled way. See, it is a time for feasting and merriment, but entirely in a way that suits you.
But what to drink at such a time? I'm recommending a couple of whites with a little touch more body and depth, but still lifted and enjoyable. And for the reds, if you're having some form of roast lamb, you can jump beautifully from deeper reds such as a châteauneuf-du-pape, through to lighter examples like the juicy mencia from Ribeira Sacra, northern Spain, which is – for me – one of the most exciting wine regions in the world.
Specially Selected Godello, Baron Amarillo, Spain, 2024
Available at Aldi (in-store only), £9.99, 13.5 per cent ABV
From Bierzo, a region bordering Galica and Castilla y Leon in north-western Spain, this is Spain's most northernly wine producing region. It is green, wet, and whipped by the Atlantic ocean. Godello is a grape variety native to this area. Think ripe stone fruit such as apricots, a lovely citrus kick and wafts of springtime blooms – reminding me of early morning springtime walks full of lovely scented freshness.
The Society's Exhibition Chenin Blanc, South Africa, 2022
Available at The Wine Society £14.50, 13 per cent ABV
I don't use the phrase 'legendary winemakers' lightly, but it's an accurate description of Chris and Suzaan Alheit, the talented duo behind this outstanding wine. Located in Hemel-en-Aarde, translated as meaning 'heaven on earth', near Hermanus in South Africa, this is a stunning dry farmed old bush vine chenin blanc and I just love it. It has strips of lemon rind alongside a soft, honeyed edge and something that reminded me of vanilla french toast. It's generous, but not overpowering thanks to lively acidity, and just leaves you feeling a little bit decadent and sumptuous, one to wow your guests, and is outstanding value for money.
Ponte da Boga Mencía, Ribeira Sacra, Spain, 2023
Available at The Wine Society £11.95, 12 per cent ABV
If you love pinot noir, gamay, lighter syrah and sangiovese (indeed my list could go on), then you must try mencia – actually, scrap that, everyone should try mencia. A beautiful red grape from northern Spain that delivers in flavour, but shows great restraint in alcohol level. This has a bright red cherry nose with a lively floral note too, but it's not just flowers and fruit here – it has a luxurious smoothness to the tannins and an energetic pepperiness. Keep an extra bottle or two of this kicking about, as I think your guests will love it.
M&S Clocktower Marlborough Southern Valleys Pinot Noir
Available in-store at M&S and online via Ocado, £15, 13.5 per cent ABV
A solid pinot noir, made by Wither Hills, a respected producer in the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Think muddled black cherries, blueberries and black currants, with a soft sprinkle of cinnamon spice. The tannins are fine, and there's good acidity to keep everything upbeat. A fine accompaniment to a leg of lamb.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Moulin Teyroud, France, 2023
Available at Aldi (in-store only), £9.99 from 14–20 April (usual rrp £16.49), 14.5 per cent ABV
If you're craving something a little fuller, you can't go wrong with this classic châteauneuf-du-pape, especially at this offer price. An opulent and intense, but not heavy, grenache dominated red with ripe red plums, morello cherries, smooth edged tannins and the hint of something a bit more savoury.
You can thank me later for introducing you to this great value, little-known, sweet red wine, which is ideal for pairing with Easter eggs, and all things chocolate. Serve this chilled (it'll keep in the fridge well), and revel in its dried figs, concentrated dates and inky blackcurrant goodness as you indulge in your chocolate stash.