Why not try these cracking wines this Easter?
Please don't misunderstand me – I'm not a grinch. I adore Christmas and all its warmth and excess. But Easter is just a bit more laid back. Your diary isn't rammed back to back with 'pre-Easter' catch-ups. Instead, your social calendar can just remain calm and measured – as blissfully busy, or not, as you like.
You don't haemorrhage your meager savings in gift-buying either. A Lindt chocolate bunny will leave you with enough change from a fiver to buy a bag of Mini Eggs or a Creme Egg – all three of which are a happy tick from me.
And, in an entirely unscientific survey amongst friends, it seems I'm not alone. Many cited how much more 'relaxing' it was, that the bonus two days of bank holidays feel more indulgent than those at Christmas, and that if you have family stresses, there is minimal expectation to actually spend any time with them. It's a holiday that you can very much do on your own terms, without the pressure to please anyone else.
And I haven't even mentioned the time of year that it takes place. It's the northern hemisphere's moment of absolute promise. I don't know about you, but the fizzing energy of spring is utterly intoxicating. I can't get enough of the sense of hope that's in the air (even through the mire of the two T's, Trump and tariffs).
I find it fascinating that Easter never had the 19th-century makeover in the way that Christmas did. Why did one become the symbol of secular 'family time', a respectable moment for the burgeoning middle class, and the other just fade away?
I think it's largely attributable to the fact that Easter didn't receive the literary freshening that Christmas did. If you think about it, many of our notions about Christmas are rooted in 19th-century novels, such as Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol, and Clement Clarke Moore's The Night Before Christmas.
Prior to that, both Christmas and Easter were admonished by puritans with one particularly joyful New England preacher, Cotton Mather, saying, 'the feast of Christ's nativity is spent in revelling, dicing, carding, masking, and in all licentious liberty... by mad mirth, by long eating, by hard drinking, by lewd gaming, by rude revelling!' That all sounds rather excellent to me.
I like to think we can bring a little of this 'mad mirth' to Easter, too, but in a beautifully laid-back, chocolate egg-fuelled way. See, it is a time for feasting and merriment, but entirely in a way that suits you.
But what to drink at such a time? I'm recommending a couple of whites with a little touch more body and depth, but still lifted and enjoyable. And for the reds, if you're having some form of roast lamb, you can jump beautifully from deeper reds such as a châteauneuf-du-pape, through to lighter examples like the juicy mencia from Ribeira Sacra, northern Spain, which is – for me – one of the most exciting wine regions in the world.
Specially Selected Godello, Baron Amarillo, Spain, 2024
Available at Aldi (in-store only), £9.99, 13.5 per cent ABV
From Bierzo, a region bordering Galica and Castilla y Leon in north-western Spain, this is Spain's most northernly wine producing region. It is green, wet, and whipped by the Atlantic ocean. Godello is a grape variety native to this area. Think ripe stone fruit such as apricots, a lovely citrus kick and wafts of springtime blooms – reminding me of early morning springtime walks full of lovely scented freshness.
The Society's Exhibition Chenin Blanc, South Africa, 2022
Available at The Wine Society £14.50, 13 per cent ABV
I don't use the phrase 'legendary winemakers' lightly, but it's an accurate description of Chris and Suzaan Alheit, the talented duo behind this outstanding wine. Located in Hemel-en-Aarde, translated as meaning 'heaven on earth', near Hermanus in South Africa, this is a stunning dry farmed old bush vine chenin blanc and I just love it. It has strips of lemon rind alongside a soft, honeyed edge and something that reminded me of vanilla french toast. It's generous, but not overpowering thanks to lively acidity, and just leaves you feeling a little bit decadent and sumptuous, one to wow your guests, and is outstanding value for money.
Ponte da Boga Mencía, Ribeira Sacra, Spain, 2023
Available at The Wine Society £11.95, 12 per cent ABV
If you love pinot noir, gamay, lighter syrah and sangiovese (indeed my list could go on), then you must try mencia – actually, scrap that, everyone should try mencia. A beautiful red grape from northern Spain that delivers in flavour, but shows great restraint in alcohol level. This has a bright red cherry nose with a lively floral note too, but it's not just flowers and fruit here – it has a luxurious smoothness to the tannins and an energetic pepperiness. Keep an extra bottle or two of this kicking about, as I think your guests will love it.
M&S Clocktower Marlborough Southern Valleys Pinot Noir
Available in-store at M&S and online via Ocado, £15, 13.5 per cent ABV
A solid pinot noir, made by Wither Hills, a respected producer in the Marlborough region of New Zealand. Think muddled black cherries, blueberries and black currants, with a soft sprinkle of cinnamon spice. The tannins are fine, and there's good acidity to keep everything upbeat. A fine accompaniment to a leg of lamb.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Moulin Teyroud, France, 2023
Available at Aldi (in-store only), £9.99 from 14–20 April (usual rrp £16.49), 14.5 per cent ABV
If you're craving something a little fuller, you can't go wrong with this classic châteauneuf-du-pape, especially at this offer price. An opulent and intense, but not heavy, grenache dominated red with ripe red plums, morello cherries, smooth edged tannins and the hint of something a bit more savoury.
You can thank me later for introducing you to this great value, little-known, sweet red wine, which is ideal for pairing with Easter eggs, and all things chocolate. Serve this chilled (it'll keep in the fridge well), and revel in its dried figs, concentrated dates and inky blackcurrant goodness as you indulge in your chocolate stash.
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The Sun
2 days ago
- The Sun
I tested best fish and chips in capital of British national dish – winner was succulent and flaky and only cost £10.50
THERE are few things we Brits love more than fish and chips. And Scarborough, home to 93 chippies, knows that more than anywhere else. The seaside resort in North Yorks has more fish and chip shops per head than any other town or city in the country — 85.4 per 100,000 to be precise. 15 So as a self-confessed fan of our national dish, I knew I had to pay it a visit. My mission? To find the best fish and chips in the fish and chip capital of Britain. My method? By trying as many establishments as I could in the town centre in one day. And along the way, I found out just how the chippy makes the meal like nowhere else — and why it's more important than ever to make a point of supporting your local. As it turns out, the dish had made quite the journey to end up in the UK. Sephardic Jews in 15th Century Portugal enjoyed traditional fried fish on the Sabbath. Cooking on the day itself was forbidden, so they would wrap the fish in batter to preserve it. But when they were banished in 1497, many fled to England, bringing the dish with them — and the tradition of eating it on a Friday soon caught on. By the Victorian era, fried fish was firmly established as a working-class staple, being cheap, nutritious and easy to ship across the country thanks to the arrival of the railways. 'Fried fish warehouses' even featured in the Charles Dickens classic Oliver Twist. Britain's £65 Fish & Chips So Big NO ONE Can Finish It Alone But the title of Britain's first fish and chip shop is hotly debated. A southerner may tell you the first one was opened in Bow, East London, by a Jewish immigrant called Joseph Malin in about 1860, while a northerner might claim it was John Lees, who opened a market stall in Mossley, Lancs, around 1863. Wherever that marriage of fried fish and fried chips was first made, it wasn't long before there was a shop on just about every corner. The dish even escaped rationing during World War Two. 'Prices are rocketing' 'It just worked so well, and it's great nutrition,' says Andrew Crook, President of the National Federation of Fish Friers. The numbers don't lie either. According to UK Fisheries, UK fans scoff around 382million meals from chippies every year and spend £1.2billion on fish and chips annually. Even Queen Elizabeth was a devotee — although she didn't eat fish off a newspaper, instead preferring haddock cut into small squares and covered in breadcrumbs. So how did we come to love fish and chips so much? 'It's a comfort thing,' reckons Andrew. 'People go on holiday, and the first meal they have when they get back is fish and chips. 'Everyone has their favourite chippy — you see so many arguments on social media about which one's better than the other. But as long as it sells and people love it, you're doing alright.' But the good old fish and chip shop is under threat. Although there are still more than 10,500 shops left in the country, they now find themselves under pressure just like other small businesses. 15 'Fish prices are rocketing, while staff wages and national insurance contributions have increased,' says Raymond Fusco, a third-generation fish fryer and the owner of Winking Willy's, a fish and chip shop right on the harbourside in Scarborough. He adds: 'Gas price increases were massive too, because of the Ukraine war. All that has to be taken into account.' Reduced cod fishing quotas in recent years have also driven costs upwards. But despite these challenges, Raymond still feels confident about the future. He says: 'The good shops will continue to thrive. You can't imagine a Britain without fish and chips.' Andrew, meanwhile, wants the Government to recognise the problems smaller shops face. He says: 'We've got a great product and people rightly love fish and chips. 'We just need the Government to start engaging with this more closely, because if they don't I fear for many small businesses.' But to really understand fish and chips, I would have to get behind the counter and find out how it is made. Raymond explains the vital parts of the process. The oil will soak in if the batter is too thin — and chips must always be at least double fried. When it comes to the fish, keeping the oil clean is what matters most, and it must be regularly sieved to remove scraps and impurities. 15 'Crispy on outside' It's also why what you get down the chippy is so different to what you get in pubs. Raymond reveals: 'We always say, the busier we are, the better the fish, because you're constantly turning over the oil. 'Pubs don't generally do the same amount of volume.' I was now ready to go back to the customer side of the counter and see what Scarborough had on offer — but what should I be looking for in good fish and chips? Andrew, who also judges the National Fish and Chip awards, says: 'You want to be looking at the batter first. 'I'd always break a fish in half and make sure it's not too gooey underneath. You want a nice thin batter that's crisp, and you want a little bit of lift on it, usually a bit spiky.' Haddock rather than cod is the preferred offering in Scarborough, but a good fish will always be ice white and flakey. And for the chips? Andrew says: 'Crispy on the outside and soft in the middle.' But he added that as it was new potato season, they would likely be on the softer side. For these reviews, I have taken into account flavour and value for money to give each a mark out of ten. Here, I reveal what happened when I put Scarborough — and my arteries — to the test. Winking Willies: £10.50 15 THE batter at this family-run shop certainly delivered a great crunch. The chips also had a good amount of softness on the inside without sacrificing the bite on the outside – no doubt thanks to the fact it is cooked in beef tallow. But it was the fish itself that really stood out, with a succulent flavour and great degree of flakiness. 9/10 Harbourside: £11.20 Like Willy's, this takeaway on the far end of the seafront also keeps things traditional by frying everything in beef dripping. Taste wise, it's worth it, and the chips had a great colour. I was also impressed by the size of the fish – though at £11.20 I wouldn't expect anything less. The fish was slightly greasy, but the batter was crisp. 7/10 The Anchor: £11.30 WITH it featuring on TV's The One Show, I went into The Anchor with high expectations – and it almost met them. The portion size was good, and there was clean separation when I broke away the fish, indicating good batter. But I found the chips to be somewhat undercooked with too much fluff – though having beers on draught almost made up for it. SCORE: 6/10 Bamford's: £10.60 THIS small shop on the front had one of the best coloured chips on offer. The fish also delivered on taste. In its favour, for me, was the fact that the skin was still left on. Though I can appreciate not everyone is a fan of this, I think it adds a nice variety to the flavour, especially when you're tucking into it by the sea. SCORE: 7/10 Tunny Club: £8.95 I WAS impressed by this award-winning takeaway's unique twist on the classic dish – a fish and chip wrap, featuring battered haddock, chips, and tartar sauce all bundled together. It came in at a very reasonable price, and I was pleasantly surprised by the innovation, which made a pleasant change from your usual takeaway tray. 8/10 Fish Pan: £9.85 15 Established in 1960, this old-school seafront take- away unfortunately left me disappointed. I enjoyed the chips, and the batter looked and tasted good, too. However, the fish itself was far too greasy for me to enjoy, and was too tough as well, lacking the flakiness I had been told by the experts to be on the lookout for. SCORE: 5/10 Papa's: £10.18 15 SITTING in a prime position on the seafront, a giant sign announces this as Britain's Best Fish and Chips. Unfortunately, it wasn't on the day I visited. Although the chips were decent, the fish was oily and not as good as many of the others nearby. But at £10.18 for a regular meal, it was one of the better value shops along the front. SCORE: 5/10 Carol's Plaice: £9 15 A FEW streets away from the beach in a more residential area, this small family-owned shop is not chasing the tourist crowd – but it offered plenty of bang for my buck. The chips were generously portioned and the batter was a standout. It's no wonder that Gary from Coronation Street – actor Mikey North – once paid a visit. 8/10 Rennards: £9.15 15 THE offering from this town centre chippy was a decent size for the price, and the fish itself was tasty. The batter wasn't too bad either, though it could have done with crisping up a little bit more. Unfortunately, the chips were the let-down here, as they were pale, undercooked and overall of poor quality. 5/10 Wackers: £10 15 THE understated plain brick frontage of this takeaway just off the main shopping street didn't fill me with buckets of hope. But at a tenner a portion, I couldn't complain. The batter had a good golden colour to it, and the chips tasted great with a lovely crispness on the outside. Top whack! SCORE: 8/10 North Bay Fisheries: £12.50 15 THE large queue snaking out of the door proved why this establishment, situated on the opposite side of town, is one of the highest-rated chippies in Scarborough. The batter and chips all scored top marks, and the fish was tasty too with a more meaty texture. By far the most expensive takeaway I visited but the portion size was very generous. 9/10 Catch 55: £10 JUST one road back from the seafront, this smart establishment offered a regular meal for a reasonable tenner. The batter was some of the best I'd had, and the fish was also tasty. But although the chips were great, they were let down by the fact that there were not as many in my box as other shops had served me.
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