The ultimate guide to summer in Iceland, land of the midnight sun

Telegraph

a day ago

Famed for its breathtakingly unique landscapes – geysers and glaciers galore, plus winding fjords, lunar lava fields and fiery volcanoes – as well as a burgeoning foodie scene and fascinating cultural heritage, Iceland is a perpetually attractive destination.
This year, there are more reasons than ever to visit, as well as to explore outside the capital. One major draw is the emergence of increased solar activity – the Solar Maximum – that makes 2025 a premium year for viewing the Northern Lights.
But there are also a slew of new openings and attractions around the country that are best enjoyed outside of the darker winter months.
Up in the north, Iceland's second largest city, Akureyri, has constructed a new airport terminal to facilitate the growing demand for direct flights from Europe, while the nearby Mývatn Nature Baths is building new facilities this year.
Over in the Eastfjords, the village of Seyðisfjörður is busy constructing a dramatically beautiful cliff-edge viewing platform shaped like a Viking ring, and southern Iceland has discovered a new ice cave on the Mýrdalsjökull glacier.
A new luxury lagoon named Árböðin (The River Baths), designed by acclaimed architectural firm T.ARK, is set to open in the Golden Circle area, and there's now a 745-mile touring route exploring the country's fiery side called the Volcanic Way, which passes through 17 towns and villages in South Iceland and the Reykjanes peninsula.
Plus fabulous new hotels help to make remote places more accessible (and luxurious): the dapper Hotel Blönduós and Höfði Lodge in the north, Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll deep in the country's interior, the charming Dalahótel in the West fjords.
All you need to do is pack your bags and book your flight.
Day 1: Reykjavik
Museums and galleries, bars and bistros
Spend the first day exploring the country's compact but buzzy capital. Prepare for the trip ahead with an overview of Icelandic history at the National Museum of Iceland and its majestic natural world at Museum Perlan.
Snap some panoramic views of the city from the tower of Hallgrímskirkja, enjoy local art at the National Gallery of Iceland or Reykjavík Art Museum, and stroll the charming harbour and promenade to take in some sea air before enjoying a concert at Harpa.
There are endless options for foodies in Reykjavík: sip local craft brews at Kaldi, enjoy French wines and sharing plates at Apéro, or indulge in Michelin-starred dining at ÓX. For more excellent options, see our guides to the best restaurants and bars in Reykjavík.
Where to stay
Center Hotel's swish Grandi has doubles from £260. But if you want to splash, the Reykjavík Edition – the country's only five-star – has doubles from £560.
Day 2: Snaefellsnes Peninsula
Sagas, spas and serene nature
Borgarnes lies just an hour or two out of Reykjavík, serving as a gateway to beautiful West Iceland as well as a heartland for Iceland's Viking past. Visit the town's Settlement Centre to learn about the latter (including the Sagas) before hopping to nearby Reykholt, where you can learn about twelfth-century poet and historian Snorri Sturluson and enjoy a dip and some lunch in the geothermal Krauma spa.
Head back west, stopping off for a hike up and around Eldborg crater if you feel like stretching your legs, then take Road 54 around the scenic Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Highlights include the Snæfellsjökull National Park, whose photogenic glacier inspired Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth, the picturesque villages of Arnarstapi and Ólafsvík, the black-pebble beach at Djúpalónssandur, and cone-shaped Kirkjufell – 'Arrowhead Mountain' to Game of Thrones fans. Arrive in pretty Stykkishólmur in time for a tasty seafood dinner at Sjávarpakkhúsið.
Where to stay
The small but charming Hotel Egilsen has doubles from £262.
Day 3: Isafjordur and the Westfjords
Red-sand beaches, bird cliffs and fishing villages
Don't leave before enjoying Stykkishólmur's picturesque harbour and views over Breiðafjörður Bay; there's also a local heritage museum and the enigmatic Library of Water if you have time. When you're done, board the car ferry over to Brjánslækur to reach the remote Westfjords.
Head west to take in some of its most strikingly wild scenery, including the 10-kilometre red-sand beach Rauðisandur and the Látrabjarg cliffs, home to millions of birds spanning puffins, guillemots and razorbills. Drive back east and then north towards the regional capital of Isafjordur, stopping off for snacks and snaps at charming villages such as Þingeyri and Flateyri; the Osvör Maritime Museum offers interesting insights into local fishing history. In Ísafjörður, enjoy a wonderful catch of the day at the rustic Tjöruhúsið.
Where to stay
Isafjörður Hotels operates several hotels in the centre; doubles from £290.
Day 4: The North
Magic, seal-spotting and the Vatnsdalur Valley
After breakfast, enjoy Isafjordur's mountain and harbour vistas and the Westfjords Heritage Museum. Grab soup and a grilled cheese slice at Heimabyggð before hitting the road to North Iceland. Stop at Hólmavík, where the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft has an overview of ancient magical practices and traditions.
Continue on to Hvammstangi, where you can learn about seals at the local Seal Center and have lunch upstairs at Sjávarborg. Afterwards, take your time to walk among the beautiful waterfalls of the Kolugljúfur canyon and enjoy the scenery of the Vatnsdalur valley, where one of the Viking Sagas was set. As you approach Blönduós, keep your eyes peeled for seals along the Hunafloi Bay.
Where to stay
The dapper Hotel Blönduós has doubles from £260 and a good restaurant.
Day 5: Trollaskagi Peninsula and Akureyri
Turf houses, fjords and sushi
Not far from Blonduos lies the small town of Glaumbaer, where you can see some preserved turf houses, while the lovely village of Hólar boasts the oldest stone church in Iceland. Follow Road 76 around the striking TröllaskagiPeninsula (Troll Peninsula), a dramatically beautiful mix of valleys, fjords and mountains.
Stop at Siglufjörður, a former fishing town, to admire the old wooden houses and have lunch at Torgið. A bit more driving along more picturesque fjords will bring you to the capital of the north, Akureyri, tucked atmospherically into the bottom of the Eyjafjörður fjord. Spend the remainder of the day exploring its pretty churches, art galleries and botanical gardens. For dinner, Rub23 has excellent Icelandic fish, lamb, and beef dishes – and some of the best sushi in the country, served with the restaurant's own locally-grown wasabi.
Where to stay
Akureyri - Berjaya Iceland Hotels has doubles from £225.
Day 6: Husavik and Myvatn
Whale-watching, waterfalls and geothermal hikes
After Akureyri, head east to majestic Godafoss (the 'Waterfall of the Gods') and then north to Húsavík, famed for its whale-watching tours: if you're lucky you might spot humpbacks, minke, orcas or dolphins. Lunch at Gamli Baukur, which overlooks the harbour before following the road around the fjord to the spectacular Ásbyrgi Canyon and Hljóðaklettar, a cluster of photogenic rock columns; a footpath guides you from here through the gorgeous Jökulsárgljúfur canyon to Hólmatungur.
Make one final stop at Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall, before driving to Mývatn – a wonderland of geothermal activity, with plentiful hiking opportunities and the option of a dip at Mývatn Nature Baths. Dine at farm restaurant Vogafjós.
Where to stay
Vogafjós also offers rustic guest rooms from £240 per night.
Day 7: East Coast
East fjords, puffins and lobster soup
Today's drive takes you through the enigmatic East Fjords via Egilsstaðir and the mountains and valleys of the Herad region. The first stop should be Borgarfjörður eystri, home to around 10,000 pairs of nesting puffins in summer. Egilsstaðir is the largest town in the region and a good place to stop and refuel, but a little farther on is Seyðisfjörður, whose dramatic surroundings can be enjoyed from a brand new viewing platform.
Lunch at Skaftfell Bistro before heading to the small peninsula of Hvalnes and the village of Djúpivogur, where you can hike and admire the scenery. The final stretch, to Höfn, takes around an hour and a half but you'll be rewarded with views of the mighty Vatnajökull Glacier and surrounding fjords – and lobster soup at Otto Matur & Drykkur.
Where to stay
Hotel Höfn has doubles from £220.
Day 8: South Coast
Glaciers, lakes and black sand beaches
It's not really a trip to Iceland if you don't get up a glacier. From Höfn, explore Vatnajökull via one of the local companies offering ice climbing, ice walks and ice cave tours.
Alternatively, enjoy a scenic hike in the slightly quieter Skaftafell National Park – just be sure to save time for the drive along the sight-laden south coast, where highlights include the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and associated Diamond Beach, where icy chunks from Vatnajökull wash up photogenically onto black sands; and Dyrhólaey, a large promontory with splendid views of the coastline and the Reynisdrangar sea stacks.
If you need to break the journey up along the way, stop at Kjarr in Kirkjubæjarklaustur for lunch, or head straight to Vik, where you can feast on burgers and more at Smiðjan Brugghús.
Where to stay
Hotel Kria has apartments in Vik from £250.
Day 9: Westman Islands and the Highlands
Volcano hikes, puffins and mountain adventures
Continue south, stopping at Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls, before taking a break from the car and catching the Herjólfur ferry from Landeyjafjara to the Westman Islands. You'll arrive at Heimaey, where you can climb the Eldfell volcano, which erupted in 1973, forcing the evacuation of the entire island; the dramatic story is told in detail at the Eldheimar Museum.
Enjoy lunch at Voruhusid before catching the ferry back to the mainland and driving to Midgard Base Camp. A hotel and tour operator all in one, they are well-equipped for a guided tour into otherwise inaccessible highland areas such as Þórsmörk, Landmannalaugar or Fjallabak. In the evening, dine at Midgard's in-house restaurant.
Where to stay
Midgard Base Camp has doubles from £185.
Day 10: Golden Circle and the Reykjanes Peninsula
Viking parliament, waterfalls and hot springs
For the final leg of the trip, explore the Golden Circle. Start with a drive to the Kerið Crater Lake (you can walk around its rim), before heading to the UNESCO World Heritage site Thingvellir, the location of Iceland's ancient parliament, founded in 930 AD. Stroll between the North American and European tectonic plates at the Almannagja Gorge, and enjoy the park's lava fields and lakes.
Gullfoss, one of Iceland's most iconic waterfalls, should not be missed, and although the world-famous Geysir is nowadays dormant, the Haukadalur valley has plenty of other spurting hot springs (such as Strokkur) to see. If you're heading back to Reykjavik and want to see more, drive the Reykjanes Peninsula to see Iceland's oldest lighthouse (Reykjanesviti), the bubbling mud pits of Krysuvík and Seltun, and maybe pay a visit to the Blue Lagoon.
Alternatively, stay at the plush new Hotel Geysir, which has doubles from £280 and a very good restaurant, before heading to Keflavik airport the next morning.
Where to stay
If you head back to Reykjavik, the chic Canopy Hotel has doubles from £300.
How to do it
When to go
This tour has been designed for summer (approximately June to August) for several reasons. Firstly, Iceland experiences almost 24 hours of daylight during the summer season, meaning there is much more time to enjoy the sights, especially on longer driving days. The more remote parts of the country – and the mountain F-roads leading to them – are more accessible, and summer also brings better general driving conditions since the roads are clear of snow and ice.
The higher temperatures mean outdoor activities are also more enjoyable. If you can't go in the summer, try and stay as close to the summer shoulder seasons as possible since many roads only remain open between the end of April to around mid-September. However, although much of this route will be inaccessible during deep winter, you can certainly do some of it, with the bonus of snow-covered landscapes and a higher chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
What to book
While the above itinerary is custom-made and not specifically offered by a tour operator, Arctic Adventures offer a nine-day tour that covers a fair bit of it for around £2,300 per person, with basic accommodation and breakfasts included.
Midgard Adventure also offers all-inclusive packages such as a four-Day Northern Lights Adventure that covers the Golden Circle, the south coast and Þórsmörk, plus 'off the beaten path' experiences such as super jeep tours, ice caves, and glacier walks for around £1,500 per person; they also have a private day tours to the Westman Islands and a Þórsmörk Super Jeep Day Tour that start at around £200 per person.