Food Picks: Contemporary Asian flavours at one-Michelin-starred Willow
SINGAPORE – Willow executive chef Nicolas Tam, one of those self-styled straight-talker types, has no time for fine dining's typical frills, despite his restaurant's one Michelin star. So, do not expect ironed tablecloths or lavish courtesy here.
As the contemporary Asian restaurant sways into a new season, it turns its attention from Japan to the rest of the continent. The gastronomic essence of other cultures, such as the Chinese and the Peranakans, comes to bear here in a menu that is constantly updated to keep pace with seasonal specialities and supply chain fluctuations.
The $228++ dinner menu starts off with the familiar: a soothing and herbal black chicken consomme made with the Silkie breed of poultry prized for its gamier taste.
Following a quick detour through the restaurant's traditional stomping ground of Japanese cuisine – a trio of snacks with uni and chutoro – chef Tam's French background delivers a cloud-like Pain Au Lait, to be dipped in a sweet-savoury miso sabayon that cradles in its centre a confit egg yolk.
A zesty appetiser of zucchini, green apple and caviar cleanses the palate before the mains, generously portioned and boldly spiced, make landfall.
One of the highlights is the toothfish with sauerkraut – an elegant nod to the suan cai yu (fish with pickled mustard greens) that has become so ubiquitous in Singapore. Willow's version is creamier and less puckering, the succulent fish dusted with rattan pepper for a light citrus zing.
Also inspired by a local favourite is the Iberico pork with buah keluak sambal. The condiment's caramelised nuttiness, traced every so slightly with a bitter hint, complements the richness of the pork.
Miyazaki A5 wagyu at Willow.
ST PHOTO: CHERIE LOK
Diners can upgrade this dish to a plate of Miyazaki A5 wagyu, grilled over binchotan and crowned with a nugget of foie gras. It is the kind of melt-in-your mouth luxuriance expected of a restaurant of this calibre and, in some ways, exemplifies Willow's ethos – maximum quality, minimal fuss.
A final rice course rounds off the savoury act, before two desserts and a trio of sweets tuck you gently into a blissful food coma.
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