logo
What You Need to Know About the Rise in Skin Cancer

What You Need to Know About the Rise in Skin Cancer

Vogue Arabia21-06-2025
"The back is one very notable example because obviously, we can't see what's going on," says Khan. "The other is between the toes, the scalp, behind the ears, under the breasts, the genital area, and the buttocks." Banwell echoes this, particularly for those with darker skin tones. "Those with darker skin tones should look out for darker spots that bleed, grow, appear darker or lighter, or change in any way," he says. "Even though those with fairer skin are more prone, it does not mean that those with darker skin tones won't be affected."
Old misconceptions, new dangers
"One of the biggest misconceptions is that sunbeds are a 'safer' way to get a 'base tan'. This is not the case whatsoever," says Banwell. "We know that skin cancer is caused by exposure to the Solar Constant — i.e. the combination of ultraviolet radiation (UV-A and UV-B), infrared (IR) and visible light from the sun. Intense exposure via sunbed use also dramatically increases the risk of skin cancer formation (between 30–70%), and thus avoidance of sunbeds is mandatory."
Another common myth? That sunscreen isn't necessary in winter or cloudy weather. "You should be wearing sunscreen throughout the year," Banwell insists. And age isn't a get-out clause. "Skin cancer can affect those at any age," he adds. "Repeated sun exposure without protection can really increase your risk."
How often should you check your skin?
"I think the golden rule," says Khan, "is that anything that is present for two months or more, whether it's just a reddish lesion which doesn't heal, or whether it's a pigmented lesion which is undergoing any change, these are the things that people need to be aware of.' For those with a personal or family history, vigilance is essential. "We need to have our moles checked or check ourselves at least once a month," Khan says.
"Dermatologist visits can be every three to six months, and we can use mole mapping to establish whether lesions are changing," Khan adds. Genetic mutations like CDKN2A may also require screening, he notes, adding that "Once one has had a family history or a melanoma oneself, this is no longer about just prevention. It is a medical necessity."
What's new in detection and treatment?
Artificial intelligence is already transforming early diagnosis. "It has evaluated many thousands of lesions and can now detect melanoma and other cancers with almost the same accuracy as a dermatologist," says Khan. Tools like MoleScope and Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) allow virtual biopsies and high-resolution skin imaging. "This is a real breakthrough," he adds.
Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

7 Sunscreen Mistakes Dermatologists Say You Should Avoid
7 Sunscreen Mistakes Dermatologists Say You Should Avoid

Vogue Arabia

time06-07-2025

  • Vogue Arabia

7 Sunscreen Mistakes Dermatologists Say You Should Avoid

The importance of wearing sunscreen to reduce the risk of skin cancer and signs of ageing is well known. But hand on heart: do you really do it every day, 365 days a year - come rain or shine - as recommended by dermatologists? "In everyday practice and from my community, I hear time and again that many people shy away from it despite being aware of it. Out of fear of spots. Or simply because they don't like the sticky, greasy feeling that many sun creams leave behind," says dermatologist Dr. Emi Arpa, who runs her own practice in Berlin and a skincare brand under her own name. But even the very best sun protection is useless if you don't apply it correctly. That's why Arpa reveals 7 mistakes below that you would never make and how to do it better. Sunscreen mistake no. 1: Not using sunscreen every day No matter what the weather is like, and regardless of whether you're indoors or outdoors, sunscreen should be applied every single morning. "The biggest mistake I really see people make all the time is not using SPF daily. Many people think that if it's cloudy and they're in the car or office, they don't need sunscreen. However, up to 80 percent of long-wave UVA rays penetrate clouds and window glass," says the dermatologist and continues: "We do a lot of laser treatments in our practice, after which you really have to be meticulous about sun protection. I see time and time again that patients who have had a CO2 laser and sit in the car a lot end up with pigmentation spots on one side, despite the explanatory talks. Namely on the left. So on the side facing the windshield." Sunscreen mistake no. 2: Using too little sun cream "The amount really makes the difference," says Dr. Arpa. "Most people just use way, way, way too little sunscreen. I always have the Gwyneth Paltrow video in my head... I would always advise sticking to the two-finger rule (putting a strip of sunscreen on the length of your index and middle finger) for the face. If you include the neck and décolleté, even three fingers," says Dr. Emi Arpa. Sunscreen mistake no. 3: Not reapplying If you apply SPF 30 or SPF 50 properly, i.e. the recommended amount, you still have sufficient protection in an office environment at lunchtime - in theory. However, according to Dr. Emi Arpa, it should be borne in mind that sunscreen can also rub off through sweat and friction. "For example, if you keep putting your sunglasses on and off. Or because you touch your face a lot," she explains and continues: "On warm days and when the UV index is high, I therefore also reapply cream every few hours in my day-to-day practice, which is comparable to many people's everyday office life, in order to maintain protection. Of course, it's even more important to reapply regularly if you spend a lot of time outdoors." Of course, make-up can suffer under the second or third layer. Dr. Emi Arpa therefore recommends patting in the SPF instead of rubbing it in. "However, you can't completely prevent it from wearing off. If in doubt, you simply have to reapply a little make-up or use an SPF spray or SPF powder, for example, to readjust." Sun cream mistake no. 4: Relying on day cream or make-up with SPF "In order to really get the protection shown on a product, it is crucial to use a sufficient amount," explains Dr. Emi Arpa and reminds us of the two-finger rule. So here's the question for you: do you use two finger-lengths of foundation or day cream on your face? If not, and this is probably the case, the SPF in the product will not give you the protection you need. "What's more, make-up or day cream usually only have a sun protection factor of 15," says Dr. Emi Arpa. She therefore recommends separating skin care and skin protection. "I would always advise applying the skincare first, then the SPF and then the make-up." Sun cream mistake no. 5: Forgetting the most important areas According to Dr. Emi Arpa, it's all about the details when applying sunscreen. These are the ears, the areas of skin above the eyebrows, the bridge of the nose, the lips, cheekbones, décolleté and the back of the hands. "These are the so-called sun terraces, which are prone to the sun and where I, as a dermatologist, often cut out skin cancer," says Dr. Emi Arpa. And this is particularly complicated in these susceptible areas: "Especially in the case of black skin cancer, a safety margin of 0.5 to 1 centimeter must be maintained, which is a difficult undertaking on delicate structures such as the auricle." Dr. Emi Arpa therefore recommends applying sunscreen particularly thoroughly to the sun terraces and concentrating on them when reapplying sunscreen. Sun cream mistake no. 6: Not protecting your lips from the sun According to the dermatologist, the lower lip is also one of the sun terraces mentioned above, as it is exposed to the sun. "In addition, the skin on the lips plays a special role as the border zone between the mucous membrane and normal skin. Here we have hardly any calluses, no sweat and sebaceous glands - and therefore much less self-protection. According to Dr. Arpa, lips therefore not only quickly develop skin cancer, which is also difficult to remove here - remember the safety distance - but also wrinkles quickly. And: "Cold sores are also often triggered by UV exposure and inadequate sun protection," says Dr. Emi Arpa. The dermatologist therefore recommends using lip care with integrated sun protection 365 days a year. Sunscreen mistake no. 7: Not washing off the SPF thoroughly in the evening As important as it is to use sunscreen, it is also crucial to wash the SPF off the skin thoroughly in the evening. "I have many patients whose skin gets worse in summer. In dermatology, this is known as Majorca acne," says the dermatologist, explaining how sun cream spots develop: "Heat increases blood circulation, including that of the sebaceous glands and therefore sebum production. In addition, you naturally sweat more - sunscreen then quickly has an occlusive effect, like a film layer." It is therefore important for anyone who is prone to sunscreen spots to use a lighter fluid instead of a greasy cream and to thoroughly wash off the SPF - whether greasy or liquid-light - in the evening with a shower gel and cleanser for the face. According to the dermatologist, the latter is also recommended for areas such as the back and décolleté, where sebaceous gland activity is particularly active. Article originally published on Vogue Germany

Is Hair & Scalp SPF Actually a Thing?
Is Hair & Scalp SPF Actually a Thing?

Vogue Arabia

time06-07-2025

  • Vogue Arabia

Is Hair & Scalp SPF Actually a Thing?

Time and again, we're reminded that sunscreen is sacrosanct. It's the Holy Grail of skincare. The be-all and end-all of your routine. But does the rule apply to your hair and scalp, too? The internet seems to think so, and considering your scalp is an extension of your skin, the experts agree, too. 'The scalp is skin — and just like the rest of your body, it is vulnerable to sun damage,' says Michael Ryan, clinical trichologist, Dubai Hair Doctor. 'Many people forget this area because it's often covered with hair. But the part lines, thinning areas, receding hairlines, and even fully exposed scalps for bald individuals, can get sunburnt, leading to discomfort.' The hair affair While your hair acts like a barrier for most of it, your scalp is still susceptible to UV ray exposure and eventual damage. According to Ryan, it's a high risk for sunbuns due to direct sun exposure, especially at the crown and part line. 'Skin cancers often appear on the scalp because it's constantly exposed and often unprotected.' To top it off, just like heat, UV rays can degrade your hair proteins, particularly keratin. While hair itself is not living tissue, Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at Self London, believes that it can also suffer from UV exposure, leading to dryness, brittleness, and colour fading. 'Applying sunscreen to the scalp is about offering it the same protection we afford the rest of our skin,' she says. 'Repeated UV exposure can lead to damage, pigmentation changes and, in some cases, precancerous lesions.' It doesn't end there. Neglecting to protect your scalp can eventually lead to several risks, including burns that may result in redness, peeling, tenderness, irritation, and flaking, which almost mimics dandruff. Repeated sun exposure may contribute to accelerated scalp skin ageing, and even follicular inflammation that can potentially impact hair growth over time. It also increases the risk of skin cancers such as basal or squamous cell carcinoma, particularly in those with thinning or bald areas. Is it an absolute necessity? Yes and no! 'It's not about overcomplicating your routine,' says Dr Mahto. 'It's about smart, targeted protection.' For example, if you have thick hair with no visible scalp, the risk is lower, though still present on partings or the hairline. If you wear your hair in partings or hairstyles that expose the scalp or if you have thinning or fine hair, then sun protection becomes essential. This applies to those who are bald or closely shaved, too.

Stressed and it Shows? Here's How You Deal with Cortisol Face
Stressed and it Shows? Here's How You Deal with Cortisol Face

Vogue Arabia

time28-06-2025

  • Vogue Arabia

Stressed and it Shows? Here's How You Deal with Cortisol Face

Waking up to stubborn puffiness, baggy under-eyes and dull skin even after a full eight hours of sleep? If your arsenal of eye creams and ice globes aren't offering a fix, the culprit might run deeper than your skincare routine. Increasingly, these symptoms are being associated with a condition known in modern beauty lexicon as 'cortisol face'—a visible manifestation of internal stress. Cortisol, the body's primary stress hormone, plays a crucial role in regulating inflammation, metabolism, and our internal rhythm. While occasional spikes are a normal byproduct of modern life, the trouble begins when cortisol levels stay elevated for extended durations. Whether triggered by chronic stress, poor sleep, or lifestyle imbalances, the repercussions can show up on your face in unmistakable ways: persistent puffiness, fluid retention, increased inflammation, and a kind of dullness that no amount of skincare can fix. In severe cases, the swelling can become so pronounced that the facial contours appear noticeably rounder, even moon-like. When these changes linger long after the stressor has passed, it might be time to pay attention to what your skin is telling you. What does cortisol do to your skin? When cortisol levels remain elevated, our skin takes the first hit. 'In the short term, high cortisol can overstimulate oil glands, leading to clogged pores and breakouts,' confirms Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Skin and Hair Clinic. 'It also disrupts the skin's protective barrier, resulting in redness, sensitivity, dehydration—you may see a dull complexion or puffiness due to fluid retention.' But the effects don't stop just there. 'Prolonged exposure to high cortisol can speed up visible signs of ageing by breaking down collagen and elastin—the structural proteins that keep skin firm and smooth,' explains Dr Agarwal. Over time, this can lead to fine lines, sagging, and thinning skin. It also slows down healing leaving it more prone to flare-ups and irritation. A 2021 Harvard study discusses how stress and skin are in constant dialogue: stress triggers cortisol, which disrupts the skin barrier, worsening certain conditions like acne or eczema. In turn, the inflamed skin sends distress signals back to the brain, further cementing the stress response. How does one break out of the loop? With skincare and stress-regulating rituals that restore balance from the inside out. Roshini Sanah Jaiswal, founder of the neurocosmetics brand Justhuman, came to this understanding during a severe autoimmune flare-up. Her skin became hypersensitive, and prone to breakouts—the root cause wasn't just hormonal or dietary, but also emotional. 'Stress-related skin issues start from within, caused by elevated cortisol or imbalances. So, to treat it, one has to think in terms of biofeedback, using ingredients that not only treat skin but also modulate neuroinflammation and rebalance the skin's sensory perception.' A routine reset While topical treatments can support the skin barrier, the real metamorphosis comes from managing stress at its source. 'Addressing 'cortisol face' is about 30% skincare and 70% lifestyle,' confirms Dr. Agarwal. For this, the expert recommends building a consistent routine that encourages mindfulness. 'Aim for 7–8 hours of quality sleep, turning in before midnight. Gentle, grounding practices like meditation, yoga and breathing exercises go a long way in calming the stress response too.' Dr. Agarwal recommends low-impact activities—think walking, stretching, or swimming—that don't overstimulate the nervous system. Soothing skincare When treating 'cortisol skin', the focus should be on restoring and strengthening the skin barrier. Choose ingredients that soothe, like ceramides, colloidal oatmeal, and niacinamide. 'These help reduce inflammation while reinforcing the skin's natural defences,' explains Dr. Agarwal, who also recommends layering in antioxidants such as vitamin C or ferulic acid to counteract oxidative stress. Keep your skincare routine minimal and restorative: Cleanse with a mild, non-foaming cleanser Follow with a calming serum Seal in hydration with a pH-balanced moisturiser

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into a world of global content with local flavor? Download Daily8 app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store