Tossing cabers and chasing kilts at Perthshire's Atholl Gathering

The Courier

4 hours ago

We've come to the Atholl Gathering, one of Scotland's most historic Highland Games, for a celebration of tradition, spectacle, and family fun.
Blair Castle rises white and proud against the Perthshire hills, and its grounds are alive with kilts, cabers, and cannon fire.
As a family with roots in Scotland but years spent elsewhere, we've always clung tightly to our heritage – none more so than on days like this.
There's something deeply satisfying about being surrounded by tartan, cheering on pipers, and watching kilted competitors hurl logs in front of a castle.
And with sunshine, cold rain, blustery wind and the promise of burgers, bouncy castles and a Highlander's dash, the day promised a classic 'four seasons in one day' Scottish adventure.
We'd never been before, but its reputation as one of the more iconic Games intrigued us, especially since it's the only one in Scotland to feature a private army legally sanctioned by the monarch – the Atholl Highlanders, a ceremonial regiment that still marches under the command of the Duke of Atholl.
The Gathering takes place on the beautiful Atholl Estates, stretching across some 145,000 acres of forests, rivers, and mountains.
Blair Castle itself, all white turrets and baronial flair, has stood since the 13th century, and was once visited by Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie.
This place breathes history, and the Atholl Gathering honours it in a way that's very much alive.
We arrived on a sunny-but-showery Sunday as he car queue wound its way through tree-lined lanes toward the castle. Once parked, the familiar scent of fried onions hit us: a sure sign the fairground was nearby.
Our daughter Lily, eagle-eyed for anything inflatable, immediately clocked the bouncy castle.
But first: the arena. A large flat expanse with a gently sloping hill to one side gave everyone a perfect view, and the white glimmer of Blair Castle peeked through the trees.
Bagpipes filled the air as solo pipers competed nearby – one of many ongoing contests throughout the day.
Having missed out on lunch from the Seafood Bothy (note to self: bring cash next year), we grabbed burgers and fries.
Lily devoured her cheeseburger with gusto before dragging us, finally, to the fairground – bouncy castle, inflatable slide, and carousel were all tested thoroughly.
One of the day's most impressive spectacles was the opening ceremony, marked by the firing of a cannon by the Atholl Highlanders. Lily, having confidently claimed she wouldn't jump at the bang, did – of course – jump.
Then came the massed pipes and drums, marching in formation, a stirring, goosebump-inducing moment. Lily, inspired, planned to 'practice her drum' when we got home. We weren't quite as enthusiastic about that.
We settled into the hillside to watch the heavy events – shot put, wrestling, and the one we'd waited for: the Highlander's Dash.
I was told this foot race involved Highlanders sprinting down hills in full regalia; but it was a loop around the arena, and though it lacked the steep descent I'd expected, the energy was no less electric.
Later, it was time for the family races. Lily, only three, was too young for the youngest category and distraught that she couldn't compete in the events she'd been watching all day.
I tried to take her to the start line with the hope they'd make an exception, but she got shy halfway there and backed out, so I decided to step in for the adult races instead.
Now, let me clarify: I thought this was a short sprint. Turns out, it was a full lap around the arena. Not ideal when you're in the '40s' category and wearing big boots.
After missing the starting gun (chatting to a steward in a kilt – understandable distraction), I joined the race, overtaken by 30-somethings as I gasped my way to the finish.
But I crossed it – proudly, breathlessly – earning Lily's applause and a valuable parenting win: showing up and joining in.
Between the races, we stopped for coffee and churros, watched the Highland dancers on a nearby stage, and later, sought out our own little patch of grass for our own family races so Lily could win (every time).
Before heading home, we wandered up to the Hercules Garden, a beautifully restored 18th-century walled garden with ornamental bridges, lily ponds, and classical statues.
Once abandoned, it was brought back to life in the 20th century. As we explored, Lupins in full bloom, Lily – still riding high on our foraging tour from a previous visit – tried to eat every plant she could reach. We gently suggested otherwise.
Back in the arena, the caber toss was in full swing – massive tree trunks hoisted and hurled with skill and strength.
One competitor's failed toss prompted Lily's sage analysis: 'He hasn't been eating enough salad.' Her logic? 'Salad makes you strong.' She eats her salad, so it must be true.
As the final rain of the day soaked us through, we bundled into the car, wet clothes discarded, heat blasting, and hearts full.
The Atholl Gathering had delivered everything: history, hilarity, community, and a deep sense of connection – not just to Scotland, but to something older, prouder, and enduring.
If you've never been, go. Bring your waterproofs. And bring cash.
Burntisland Highland Games – Monday, July 21
Burntisland Links, Fife
Recognised as the second oldest Highland Games in the world, Burntisland's event combines traditional athletic contests with modern attractions. Visitors can witness heavyweight events, Highland dancing, and solo piping, all set against a scenic coastal backdrop.
Crieff Highland Gathering – Sunday, August 17
Market Park, Crieff
Known as Scotland's leading Highland Games, this gathering offers a comprehensive program of events. From heavyweight competitions and Highland dancing to cycling races and massed pipe bands, the day culminates in the stirring Salute to the Chieftain
Strathmore Highland Games – Sunday, June 8
Glamis Castle, Angus
Set against the majestic backdrop of Glamis Castle,attendees can enjoy traditional heavy events, Highland dancing, and piping competitions, all within the castle's historic grounds.
Pitlochry Highland Games – Saturday, September 13
Recreation Ground, Pitlochry
Concluding the Highland Games season, Pitlochry's event is renowned for its vibrant atmosphere and scenic location. The day includes traditional athletic events, Highland dancing, piping competitions, and a grand parade of pipe bands.