Didi Ki Rasoi: How Bihar turned thousands of rural homemakers into independent food entrepreneurs

Indian Express

4 hours ago

For Parvati Devi (30), cooking is more than a daily chore, it's a source of dignity, independence and social recognition. 'Earlier, I used to cook for my family at home. Now, I earn from my cooking,' she says. 'Senior police officers eat my food, some even recognise me. They call me Didi.'
She is one of the 12 'Didis' working in a canteen at Patel Bhawan, the Bihar Police headquarters, in Patna. The canteen is part of the Didi Ki Rasoi initiative launched in 2018 by Chief Minister Nitish Kumar under Bihar's women empowerment programme, JEEViKA.
Today, there are over 225 Didi Ki Rasoi kitchens operating across Bihar in government hospitals, schools, and public offices. More than 4,000 women, referred to as 'Didis', are employed in these kitchens and earn between Rs 8,000 and Rs 10,000 a month.
Most of the women were homemakers, and the initiative seeks to leverage their cooking skills and turn them into skilled entrepreneurs making steady incomes.
As lunchtime approaches, the clanging of cutlery and the chattering of customers create a buzz in the canteen at the state police headquarters. Police personnel and other employees at the building gather around an L-shaped black granite counter, waiting for their turn. Behind the counter are a couple of women in brown aprons and white-brown salwar suits, their hair tucked neatly under hairnets.
'What's in today's menu, Didi?' asks a man. 'Veg thali, special thali with paneer, and non-veg. What would you like?' one of them replies briskly. Another officer chimes in, 'Didi, take my order too!' Nearby, one of the women call out, 'Who ordered a tea?'
Ramesh Kumar, a police officer posted at the CID DIG office, says, 'I often take my meals here. The quality is better than the earlier canteen. It's quite affordable, and the food here is just like home.'
The Didi Ki Rasoi at Patel Bhawan was inaugurated on October 3, 2023. The canteen's tall ceilings, glass windows, and walls adorned with pictures create an atmosphere more akin to a modern cafeteria than a traditional kitchen.
Every working day, the Didis arrive by 8.30 am. Their day begins with chopping vegetables, prepping ingredients, and cleaning the premises and utensils. 'The breakfast can be poha, puri-sabzi, idli and paratha. Lunch includes vegetarian, non-vegetarian, and special thalis. In the evening, we serve snacks like pakora and Chinese dishes,' says Sandhya Kumari, the community coordinator overseeing this unit.
According to her, the ever-expanding menu currently consists of 68 items — from restaurant staples to street food classics. 'We have South Indian items like dosa, Chinese food items, like noodles, and regional favourites like litti-chokha and ghughni-chura,' she says, adding, 'We also have home staples like curd, lassi, sooji ka halwa — all made in-house. Nothing we serve comes pre-packaged. We keep introducing new items based on popular demand.'
The pricing, she says, is affordable, with 'a basic veg thali costing Rs 60, a paneer thali Rs 80, and the mutton thali, the priciest item, at Rs 150'. She says that each day, the canteen serves around 250 officers and staff members. 'Some higher officials also order food to their offices.'
Parvati Devi had joined JEEViKA in 2014. Before that, the family was financially struggling, she says. 'We had to think 10 times before spending, even if there was a need,' she recalls. 'Now, I help my husband with expenses from my Rs 10,000 salary. Earlier, we couldn't afford proper education for our kids,' she says.
Today, all three of her sons, aged 15, 12, and 10, are in school.
'I had never seen Rs 10,000 in my bank account before JEEViKA, but working at Didi Ki Rasoi, I can now capitalise my culinary knowledge,' she says.
Apart from the financial gains, she says the work has also helped her personal growth. 'In my initial days, I couldn't even read messages on my phone. I had to ask others for help,' she says. 'Now, I can read English too. I have had no formal training, but I have learned so much just by meeting different types of people through JEEViKA.'
Rahul Kumar, a hospitality manager associated with the initiative, says most of the women come from poor backgrounds. 'But working at Didi Ki Rasoi — sharing space with officers, professionals, ministers — it changes their worldview. They learn a lot and also ensure that their children get an education,' he says.
Before joining Didi Ki Rasoi, the women undergo week-long residential training at the Institute of Hotel Management (IHM), Hajipur, where they learn basic hospitality, hygiene, customer service, and workplace conduct.
For women like Sindhu Devi, Munni Devi, and Rabika Khatoon — all sole breadwinners of their families — Didi Ki Rasoi offers not just a means of survival, but also social security.
Sindhu (30) got married in 2016, but just a year later, her husband, who was a farmer, passed away. Subsequently, she faced difficulties in the family, although her parents initially provided her support. In 2023, she then joined the Didi Ki Rasoi at Patel Bhawan.
'Since I started working at the police headquarters, I don't have much trouble. Apart from earning a livelihood, it gives me a sense of security that I am working among police officers,' she says.
Rabika (30) also faced similar struggles. After her husband, a carpenter, died in 2016, she started working as a domestic help to support her three children, who are now in classes 6, 2 and 1.
'At the time (of the husband's death), my youngest son was just 18 months old… My in-laws used to taunt me. But ever since I started working with Didi Ki Rasoi, they show me respect,' she says. Initially shy, Rabika says she is now more confident. 'I used to be afraid to talk to people. Now, I manage the service counter confidently.'
Munni Devi (25) shoulders the responsibility of her family after her husband, Ganesh Paswan, lost a leg in a truck accident two years ago. He worked as a painter and his income dried up following the accident.
'This job gives me hope to support my husband and six-year-old daughter,' Munni says. 'Working here makes me feel like we have come a long way. I couldn't study, but now I dream of a better future for my daughter. She is currently in class 1 in a government school.'
JEEVIKA CEO Himanshu Sharma called Didi Ki Rasoi 'a powerful example of transformation in action'.
'It's not just about providing food, it's about restoring dignity, creating opportunity, and showcasing women's leadership. Our Didis manage these kitchens with dedication and compassion, serving hospitals, government offices, and schools. They exemplify what grassroots leadership truly looks like,' Sharma says.
Joint Secretary Rajesh Kumar, the senior in-charge of the Didi Ki Rasoi initiative, said there were big plans for the future. 'Didi Ki Rasoi stands as a powerful testament to the transformative potential of social empowerment among rural women… With the continued robust backing from the government and JEEViKA, Didi Ki Rasoi is poised for significant expansion, envisioning a future as a Rs 100-crore enterprise anchored in a strategic blend of cloud kitchens and premium cafes.'