logo
Dairy farming is dying – we're an endangered species

Dairy farming is dying – we're an endangered species

Telegraph07-03-2025

'There are some days,' Peter Gantlett says, turning into the long track to his dairy farm in a particularly isolated corner of rural Wiltshire, 'when I just think: 'Why the hell am I doing this?' Usually because I'm freezing cold. But then you get over that, and meet the challenge.' He drives on in silence for a moment. 'I mean, I've got friends who just play golf every day. I'm not about to do that …'
Gantlett is 69 years old, and like many dairy farmers, is a bit of a numbers man. So he knows off hand, for example, that he has 1,112 acres of organic farmland just south of Royal Wootton Bassett. He knows that 675 is for pasture, 296 is for growing crops, 45 is for woodland, another 45 is for solar panels and 39 is for wildflower meadows.
He also knows that Britons drink some 12 million litres of milk every day – over a litre per week per person. And while some of that milk comes from vast super-producers, much of it comes from people like him: small, dedicated family farms that have been around for generations, but are now finding life tougher and tougher.
Gantlett may have 260 beef calves, then, but the core of his family business, as it was for his father, and his father before him, is the 150 dairy cows currently sitting out the final frosts of winter in the barn across from his farmhouse. A mixture of Fleckvieh, Montbéliarde and British Friesian genetic breeds, they produce 2,000 litres of milk per day, all of which is collected by the German dairy giant Müller.
'We're as efficient as we can be,' Gantlett says. 'Twenty years ago we had a decision, and three choices: get out, get bigger, or improve the value of our product. We chose the last one, and went organic.' Today, as British dairy is under siege from various squalls – not least those driven by Westminster, including Labour's inheritance tax (IHT) changes – Gantlett is all too aware of one particular number: that one British dairy farm is going out of business every day. He's just hoping that decision not to bow out when he could was the right one.
Last month, the producer of Cathedral City Cheese, the Japanese company Saputo Dairy, axed the contracts of more than a dozen farmers in the South West. Saputo, which also makes Clover and Utterly Butterly, terminated agreements with 13 farms who supplied it with 20 million litres of milk every year. The farmers are now at risk of going bust if they do not find alternative business in 12 months.
It is a worrying trend: according to the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board, there are 7,200 dairy producers in Great Britain. This is down four per cent on the previous year and 19 per cent on 2019. 'We are an endangered species, our number is diminishing,' Gantlett says, in a tone that's less a portent, more a matter of fact.
Mercifully, his farm is in profit and he's happy with Müller. The decision to go organic was a good one – he gets around 56p per litre at the moment, while the average milk price paid in January was a little over 46p. Yet the vicissitudes of his industry mean it's difficult for a small dairy farmer to ever feel as if they are thriving. Optimism isn't common in Gantlett's game. Instead, you're more likely to find a sense of managing decline.
Gantlett is a tall, wiry figure who walks with a slight limp. He has kind eyes, but tends to keep a stoic po face – at least until his grandchildren appear and instantly melt him. As he potters around his yard, the calves moo at a volume that seems unmatched to their tiny stature. The youngest are just five days old.
'The story of milk starts with a calf, because if a cow doesn't produce a calf, it doesn't produce milk,' he says, scratching the back of one. His is a 'closed herd', meaning he breeds all the replacement heifers, which eventually join the milking herd. This protects against the risks new animals might bring – not least diseases like tuberculosis (TB).
We stand and gaze at the herd in their winter lodgings, where we're joined by Anita, Gantlett's wife, Sally, their daughter, plus Sally's two young children. It's a family affair, as it has always been. Sally, 37, is an architect, but she's getting more and more involved with the family business. When she was a child, she and her brother, Jon, helped milk the cows and scrape the slurry. Decades before that, Gantlett did it as a child too.
They now have two Lely robotic milking machines, each of which cost £120,000 in 2011 (plus about the same again on the building work to house them). They have transformed the business over the last 15 years. The cows decide when they want to be milked and, when they do, queue up for the robots, which assess them using lasers, then do the milking swiftly and painlessly, collecting it in containers ready for the supplier. It's now a common method for dairy farmers who can afford it, but many are working as the Gantletts used to, using rudimentary milking machines. Some are even doing it by hand, as his grandfather did.
'Before the robots, the life was getting up at three or four in the morning in the summer to get the cows in for milking, then you'd milk them at half-five in the morning, then spend an hour washing everything down, then you've got your morning tasks – bedding, feeding, taking them back out – before you do it all again in the afternoon.' And sometimes again last thing at night.
A 14-hour day would be a short one. 'It's much more sociable, much more amenable for staff this way. You're working with the cows. Robots – they also have two robotic slurry scrapers, part-funded by a grant from the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) – have taken the drudgery out, so we can focus on the cows.'
Is there ever a part of him that misses the old days when… I begin asking, before Gantlett cuts me off. 'No. Being stuck at the wrong end of a cow, and you're there, in the dead of winter at five o'clock in the morning, the wind whistling through. Everything's freezing up. Or it's summer and too hot and the flies are everywhere…' He shakes his head. It's a definite no.
They're also large, unpredictable animals. Not always as docile as the image portrays. He shows me a curved scar on his hand. A cow leapt out of control at a gate once, knocking him down while his hand was trapped, badly cutting him. He reluctantly went to hospital for stitches, where the doctors and nurses didn't properly clean the wound before sewing him up.
'I could see them stitching slurry into me and thought, 'Well that's not good...'' Later that day his whole arm started to go grey. 'Blood poisoning,' he says, cheerfully. Back to the hospital he went, a little more quickly than the first time. He's fine now. A spot of septicemia's all in a day's work.
Gantlett feels lucky. He has always had a supportive family and a small enthusiastic staff to help on the farm. 'But I do get that mental health issues can be an issue in agriculture, because farming can be very challenging, and when you're on your own the pressures can be relentless.'
Technology helps, and previous governments offered grants to encourage robotics, but dairy farmers still face myriad issues. Some of these are the same blights that affect farmers of all kinds – the climate emergency, geopolitical strife, ever more powerful supermarkets, Brexit repercussions.
At the moment, 'it's Government policy that's the most depressing thing. We have a Government that doesn't seem to care, or understand, or is indifferent, or possibly even hostile to farming. And it's not a great place to be in terms of thinking about the future. But the flip side of that is the public support.'
Those members of the public seem to understand something he believes the Government does not: that 'farmers may be sitting on millions of pounds worth of land, but that is just a tool to produce food. We don't have surplus cash, the only income we get is by growing food on that land. And our return on capital is about one to one-and-a-half per cent. Well, the dragons on Dragon's Den always say they wouldn't get out of bed for one per cent...'
Labour rocked the entire farming sector with its Budget announcement that it will reform the Agricultural Property Relief (APR), which allows farmers to easily pass their businesses to the next generation, by introducing a 20 per cent tax rate on the value of all farms and businesses worth more than £1 million. The Gantletts aren't yet sure how it will affect them.
'I haven't run the sums yet…' Sally says, grimacing slightly. 'That's on my to-do list, to look at the business case of what would happen. It's really hard to plan at the moment, because there aren't a lot of guidelines, and you can't make any gift payments now. So they've sort of trapped us, and there's a lack of understanding about how that'll impact everyone.'
Farmers now feel helpless, she explains. For every other risk the Gantletts and farmers like them face, they can invest and combat it: technology can reduce labour costs and make jobs safer, for instance, and herbal leys improve soil health and biodiversity. Even the raw deal dairy farmers get from supermarkets can, to some extent, be buttressed by diversifying.
'But the IHT is a backwards step,' Sally says. 'No one is sure how to combat the risk: the business would need to be big enough to withstand selling off 20 per cent, which is a lot. If our business was sold it would be devastating for us, and for our employees. We have so many rural suppliers that benefit from our trade; each business that closes impacts so many more.'
One recent glimmer of hope for dairy farmers came in the news that dairy milk sales and consumption increased in 2024, after years of ceding market share to almond and oat – a rise that was driven by the surge in veganism. In her time in London, Sally saw lots of friends going vegan, and therefore dairy-free.
If anything it inspired her to stand up for the family business. 'I knew that what we do is right and good, and you're producing a good product, you're looking after the environment, looking after your animals, you're doing everything you can and [we] need food to eat.
'It's a very nutrient dense food we're creating. It hasn't flown halfway across the world, it's not a big monocrop that's been sprayed… There's so many issues in global agriculture, but what we do here stands up very strongly. It's a shame it's not shouted about a bit more.'
The money is still not great, despite going organic and diversifying. The relatively modest income from dairy is split among the family and five staff. For the average dairy farmer, the price paid for milk by supermarkets has been driven lower and lower over the years. It has risen over the last decade, since tensions were at breaking point – in Stafford in 2015, police were called when farmers paraded two cows through an Asda in protest – but Gantlett would still like greater regulation.
'If you don't pay farmers enough for milk, there won't be milk, because we're losing farmers all the time, and there's only a limited amount that those of us left can expand. There's a risk to milk production. It comes back to the Government, which needs to be careful with what they're doing. It's things like TB, things like regulations, and things like inheritance tax. They're going to push farmers out of business. They are the threats,' he says.
Sally would like to pass the farm on to another generation beyond her. Or at least, 'I'd like to be able to. And for them to have the option.' Gantlett would like that too, but it's not necessarily a given anymore. Asked if he would recommend the life to a newcomer, he pauses for a moment but reckons, on balance, that he would.
I wonder how many hours of work a week he does these days. 'I don't know,' he mutters. 'I'm trying to work less, but, is it Churchill who said that when you love something, you aren't working? Some weeks I do 80 hours, some days I'm just walking around checking things.'
On those bitterly cold days, though, when he's checking the farm before the sun rises, chasing cows around in the slurry, not knowing where the next challenge is coming from, retirement and a round of golf does seem appealing. As with many like him, he doesn't strictly 'need' to farm. We need farmers, but there'd be nothing stopping the Gantletts checking out and leaving it to someone else. And yet they won't.
'If we just wanted to make money, well we'd just sell up and put all the money on the stock market. But then what would we do?' he says. 'It's not an easy thing to explain: why we farm. It sort of makes no commercial sense. But we do, and we do enjoy it. And we're profitable. But if we weren't... well, it'd make no sense at all.'

Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

Chancellor Rachel Reeves told to abandon 'austerity' welfare cuts in spending review by the SNP
Chancellor Rachel Reeves told to abandon 'austerity' welfare cuts in spending review by the SNP

Scotsman

time2 hours ago

  • Scotsman

Chancellor Rachel Reeves told to abandon 'austerity' welfare cuts in spending review by the SNP

The SNP says Labour must 'abandon plans to impose more austerity cuts' Sign up to our Politics newsletter Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to The Scotsman, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... The chancellor is being told to 'scrap the Labour Party's devastating cuts to disabled people' in her spending review later this week. The SNP has written to Rachel Reeves ahead of her statement on Wednesday, urging her to 'abandon plans to impose more austerity cuts' and ensure there are no cuts to affordable housing, policing or the Scottish Government's budget. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Chancellor of the Exchequer Rachel Reeves delivers a speech during a visit to Mellor Bus in Rochdale on June 4, 2025, to announce investments in regional transport (Photo: PETER BYRNE/POOL/AFP via Getty Images) |Scottish Finance Secretary Shona Robison also told the chancellor to 'change course' and abandon her self-imposed fiscal rules. Yesterday, UK Science, Innovation and Technology Minister Peter Kyle was asked if he could guarantee there would be no cuts to affordable housing and police officer numbers. In response, Mr Kyle said: 'The whole details of the spending review will come out on Wednesday.' Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Dave Doogan MP, the SNP's economy spokesman, has now written to the chancellor calling on her to 'immediately and fully reverse Labour's austerity cuts to disabled people, pensioners and families, and deliver the investment needed to end child poverty, boost public services and grow the economy - instead of swinging the Westminster austerity axe again'. In his letter he also said the chancellor must 'deliver long-overdue funding for Scottish energy projects - including fully and immediately funding the Acorn Scottish carbon capture project, which has faced years of Westminster delays'. Mr Doogan also said Ms Reeves should match the Scottish Government's plan to scrap the two-child benefit cap and the bedroom tax, and introduce a UK-wide version of the Scottish child payment. ​'It's safe to say 2025 has got off to a frantic and varied start. "It is a welcome antidote to get back to the constituency to meet businesses and organisations achieving so much for local people and local economies, in stark contrast to the chaos at Westminster.' He added: 'Instead of choosing more austerity cuts, the Labour government should be choosing to boost economic growth and make fairer choices to help families and properly fund public services. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad 'At the UK spending review on Wednesday, I urge you to scrap the Labour Party's devastating cuts to disabled people and abandon plans to impose more austerity cuts to public services, including affordable housing and policing, which would hit the most vulnerable and squeeze Scotland's budget.' Over the weekend Mr Kyle said police must 'do their bit' to 'embrace change' as the Home Office and Treasury continue negotiations ahead of the spending review. It is understood Home Office ministers do not believe there is enough cash to recruit the additional police officers Labour promised in its manifesto. He said 'every part of society was struggling' and the chancellor is facing pressure from all sectors - last week Ms Reeves also warned that not every government department will 'get everything they want' and said there were 'good things I've had to say no to'. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Science, Innovation and Technology Minister Peter Kyle | Jonathan Brady/Press Association However Mr Kyle did confirm there would be a boost to spending on schools and scientific research. Over the weekend Ms Robison said the UK and Scottish governments must work together to support shared economic growth and end spending that bypasses devolution. She has called on the chancellor to relax her fiscal rules to enable investment in public services, to fully fund employer National Insurance contribution increases in the Scottish public sector, abandon welfare cuts, and fund the Acorn carbon capture project. Ms Robison said: 'The UK spending review is an opportunity for the UK Government to abandon some of its damaging policies such as cuts to welfare support for disabled people, to scrap the two-child benefit cap and to reinstate a universal winter fuel payment.' Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad She also said she hopes the chancellor will use the spending review to fully fund the increase in employers' National Insurance contributions in the Scottish public sector. Ms Robison added: 'The UK Government should also use the spending review to empower the devolved administrations with more flexible fiscal rules that can enable investment in public services and we need an end to spending that bypasses devolution so we can direct funds to best meet local needs. Finance Secretary Shona Robison presents the Scottish Government's budget at Holyrood | Getty Images 'We called on UK ministers to involve us at an early stage of this process, but since they've refused to provide us with any clarity on their spending priorities it's clear that it's business as usual for Westminster. 'We continue to call on the Treasury to use the spending review to change course, providing the funding we need to deliver for the people of Scotland.' Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Ms Reeves's spending review on Wednesday will confirm how much taxpayers' money will be spent on public services such as the NHS, and how much money the UK Government will be investing in new projects. The chancellor set out department budgets for 2025/26 back in her autumn statement - this week's spending review will see her confirm the departmental spending allocations for the next three to four years. Government borrowing grew to £20.2 billion in April, which is £1bn higher than the same month in 2024 and more than economists had been expecting. Tax revenues also increased due to increases to employer National Insurance contributions - spending also increased due to increases to pensions and other benefits. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad The UK Government has already previewed some of its spending decisions, such as raising defence spending to 2.5 per cent of GDP by 2027 and cutting the overseas aid budget. Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer has also vowed to reverse the Labour Party's cuts to universal winter fuel payments, but has yet to set out the details on what this will look like.

Farage to pledge to reopen blast furnaces in Port Talbot
Farage to pledge to reopen blast furnaces in Port Talbot

Sky News

time2 hours ago

  • Sky News

Farage to pledge to reopen blast furnaces in Port Talbot

Nigel Farage will pledge to reopen Port Talbot's steel blast furnaces if in power in Wales, as his Reform UK party sets its sights on being the government in the Senedd next year. In a speech in Port Talbot later, Mr Farage will outline how next year's Welsh parliament elections will be the primary focus of his party. The MP for Clacton has already ruled out standing at the Senedd elections next year. It is unclear who will lead the Reform party in Wales. Reindustrialising Wales will be at the centre of his speech. Acknowledging the task at hand won't be quick or easy, Mr Farage is also expected to suggest a return to coal mining, if suitable, as part of Reform's "long-term ambition to reopen Port Talbot steel". A Reform source told Sky News: "We have said and say again that we think it's better to use British coal for British steel than imported coal." Port Talbot was the largest steelmaking plant in the UK until the two blast furnaces were switched off in September 2024, which saw the loss of 2,800 jobs as part of the transition to greener production methods. Electric arc furnaces are replacing both blast furnaces and are set to be operational by early 2028. 2:30 Wales is set to head to the polls in May next year and Reform hopes to end the 26-year Labour government reign in Wales. The Reform source said Mr Farage's speech "will tap into the hearts and minds of a deeply patriotic nation that feels betrayed and forgotten about by Labour". Recent polling by Barn Cymru saw the Labour vote share in Wales collapse to 18%, with Reform second in the polls on 25% behind Plaid Cymru on 30%, whereas the Conservatives who are currently the opposition in the Senedd are on 13%. Reform believes the performance of their party in Scotland confirms they can win in Wales next year. The source told Sky News: "We are the main challenger to Labour in Wales. A vote for the Conservatives is a vote for Labour."

Young Brits issued stark warning as nearly a quarter turn to TikTok money advice
Young Brits issued stark warning as nearly a quarter turn to TikTok money advice

Daily Mirror

time2 hours ago

  • Daily Mirror

Young Brits issued stark warning as nearly a quarter turn to TikTok money advice

A survey from HSBC UK and the national education charity, Young Enterprise, reveals that Gen Z feel judged about how they manage money, leading some to turn to unreliable sources for financial advice New research suggests that Gen Z feel judged by parents, friends and social media about how they handle their money. Despite a strong digital fluency and desire for greater financial literacy, the younger generation is dealing with low confidence and misinformation when it comes to personal finances. Survey findings from HSBC UK and national education charity Young Enterprise reveals that while half of Gen Z respondents are actively saving, 67% say they feel judged or embarrassed about how they handle their money - predominantly by their family. That compares to 33% of the wider UK population, exposing a generational 'shame gap' between young and older generations. . ‌ The survey also highlights that Gen Z does not feel particularly supported in their attempts to become more financially literate, especially by their schools. Only 13% of Gen Z respondents said they would turn to their school or university as a top source for money management education. This lack of formal financial education is leading Gen Z to seek less reliable sources of financial advice. ‌ Nearly a quarter of Gen Z respondents say they have turned to social media influencers for financial advice in the last year - almost double the UK average. According to the study this trend is not indicative of financial carelessness, but rather 'reveals the consequences of growing up without reliable financial education'. Sarah Porretta, CEO of Young Enterprise, said: 'The myth that young people are careless with money just doesn't hold up. Gen Z wants to be financially capable, but they don't feel supported…Teachers are doing their best in a crowded curriculum, but they need more support too – we can't expect them to tackle this challenge alone.' Research indicates that parents are paying the price for the lack of formal financial education. According to research commissioned by Moneyfarm, 84% of British parents said that their child would have access to money that they saved for them when they turned 18 - with the average amount being £23,000. While social media is not the most reliable source of financial information, it is helping younger generations fight the stigma about discussing their personal finances. The dying stigma is also enabling Gen Z to make more informed financial decisions, negotiate better salaries and encourage financial equity. ‌ Help us improve our content by completing the survey below. We'd love to hear from you! Additionally, a 2025 consumer survey from Intuit revealed 58% of 18-35-year-olds are integrating financial management into their overall wellness routines. The report confirms that the declining stigma actually encourages 'a holistic view of wealth that aligns with personal values and long-term life satisfaction.' But as the research highlights, it is up to more than parents and teens to prioritise financial education. This past March, Conservative MP Peter Bedford brought forward a motion in Parliament to introduce a bill to make provisions around financial education in primary schools and tertiary education. Speaking in Parliament on the issue, Bedford said: "Schools should prepare young people for the adult world. Yet for all the focus on balancing an equation, there is no attention given to balancing one's bank are sending our young people out into the world and putting them into the game of life without even teaching them the rules first."

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into the world of global news and events? Download our app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store