The 10 best things to do in Sardinia
Where to start? Giants' tombs, mysterious Nuraghic fortresses, or exquisite sandy beaches lapped by impossibly turquoise sea? Then there's the mountainous interior, excellent for hiking. But one of the best ways to experience Sardinia is to arrange your trip around one its many festivals. Sardinians are immensely proud of their traditions and you'll see intricate costumes, taste local foods and hear some of the most unusual music – polyphonic folk singing, accompanied by launeddas (pipes) that have been played for over 3,000 years.
For further inspiration, see our guide to Sardinia and the island's best hotels, restaurants, nightlife and beaches.
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Cagliari
Porto Cervo
Golfo Aranci
Arzachena
Pula
Nuoro
Asinara
Barbagia
Cagliari
Meet Sardinia's 'stone army'
Up in Cagliari's Castello area is a museum complex that includes one of Sardinia's finest archeological museums, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which has exhibits dating back to 6000 BC. Unmissable is the Sardinian 'stone army': the sculptures, which are more than three metres high, with some weighing over 400 kilos, are 500 years older than China's Terracotta Army. Other fascinating exhibits include a collection of 'pintadera' – terracotta plates used to showcase the breads created for Sardinia's many festivals.
Insider tip: In the museum complex is a decent art gallery, a museum of Far Eastern art, and a collection of weird 19th-century anatomical wax specimens.
Get swept up in the festivities of a four-day festival
Every May, Cagliari celebrates the city's survival from a 17th-century plague, and gives thanks to its patron saint, Sant'Efisio. The four-day festival starts at the church of Sant'Efisio, and hundreds of participants from all over the island, wearing their town's typical costume, accompany an effigy of Sant'Efisio (which normally resides in the church), 40 kilometres down the coast to Nora, then back, accompanied by musicians, enormous bread 'sculptures', and thousands of followers.
Insider tip: This is an excellent opportunity to hear musicians playing the ancient launeddas (pipes), as well as extraordinary polyphonic folk singing. Events carry on well into the evening, so head for Piazza del Carmine for more music and celebrating.
Flock to see Cagliari's resident flamingos
The Molentargius-Saline Regional Park, spread over 1,600 hectares, was established in 1999 in order to protect the vast numbers of waterfowl that came to nest and winter here each year. Today it has the widest range of species in the Mediterranean, and is the most important site for flamingos, which number in their tens of thousands. Spring and early summer are the best times to see the flamingos. The area had been designated a world heritage site in 1976. As well as birdlife, there are a number of buildings dating back to the 1900s that reflect the area's mining past.
Insider tip: The park takes its name from the men who used to lead the donkeys (su molenti) that carried salt from the plains. One of the best ways to explore the park is by bike, and it's possible to hire binoculars from the park's Infopoint.
Porto Cervo
Spot symbolism in a beautiful church
Porto Cervo's Stella Maris church is situated on a hill overlooking the sea, and the story behind it is as beautiful as the church itself: the Aga Khan, the Imam of Ismaili Muslims, who died in February 2025, wanted to give thanks to the Catholic population for allowing him to develop the area. He commissioned the architect who had been most involved in the creation of the Costa Smeralda, Michele Busiri Vici, to build the extraordinary church for the people.
Insider tip: The church is full of symbolism: the undulation of the whitewashed exterior is reminiscent of waves. The cupola, decorated in curved tiles, reminds you of the turquoise sea, and six monolithic columns of local granite support the front of the building. Look out for 16th-century artist El Greco's 'Mater Dolorosa'.
Golfo Aranci
Dive with Dolphins and discover underwater marine flora
A thriving community of bottlenose dolphins lives in the waters of the Golfo Aranci (not least because of the location of a nearby fish farm that provides rich pickings) and Gabbiano Azzurro Hotel hosts regular boat trips that enable you to watch them feed and play, close up. You can even go snorkelling alongside them.
Insider tip: Discover underwater marine flora and fauna with PADI-qualified scuba divers. Explore the marine protected areas of Tavolara and the Molara Islands, as well as the natural reserve of Figarolo and Capofigari and the Island of Mortorio.
Arzachena
Be awestruck by the Giants' Tomb
The Tomba dei Giganti (Giants' tomb) dates from around 1600 BC, and one of the best preserved is at Coddu Vecchiu, in Arzachena. The site was only excavated in 1966 and little is known about the 11 granite stones that are arranged in a semicircle, measuring around 12 metres across, but it is thought that the arrangement might harness some subterranean energy for the purposes of rejuvenation – an abiding theme in Sardinia. The central stele – about four metres high – incorporates the entrance to the megalithic tomb beyond. Some suggest that the shape of the construction depicts that of a woman giving birth.
Insider tip: Though thought to have been a tomb for a giant, the most likely explanation, if less 'Game of Thrones', is that it was a communal burial chamber. That said, the Bell Beaker people, who probably arrived here before making for Britain, were thought to be pretty tall.
Price: Free
Pula
Walk in the footsteps of the Carthaginians
Just outside the pretty town of Pula, along the coast from Cagliari, the ancient site of Nora holds Sardinia's most impressive Carthaginian and Roman ruins, which include mosaics, temples and thermal baths. Its situation, overlooking the sea, makes the site even more spectacular. The tours are fascinating, thanks to the enthusiastic guides who provide plenty of information about the site.
Insider tip: When you're done, there are several beaches nearby, but a 20-minute drive takes you to Chia, where you'll find a series of magnificent bays, beyond which lie the lagoons that are such important flamingo breeding grounds.
Price: £
Nuoro
Admire the variety and intricacy of Sardinia's local costumes
The largest ethnographic museum in Sardinia, Museo del Costume, explores the island's rich culture through its costumes, jewellery, and musical instruments, including a 3,000-year-old launeddas – an ancient trio of pipes that sounds something like a set of bagpipes. There's even a section on bread: there are 100s of different bread designs that are used for the island's many festivals.
Insider tip: Entrance is free on the first Sunday of the month, otherwise 5 euros. A combined ticket for 8 euros includes entrance to the Deleddiano Museum dedicated to the life of Sardinia's winner of the 1926 Nobel Prize in Literature, Grazia Deledda.
Asinara
Meet the white donkeys of Asinara
North of Sassari lies the island of Asinara – Sardinia's Alcatraz – which was once a 19th-century penal colony, World War 1 prisoner-of-war camp, and, during the 1970s, a prison. Today it's a superb marine and wildlife reserve, and its most unusual residents are the albino donkeys.
Insider tip: The island is excellent for walking and cycling, and has a couple of lovely beaches, including Cala d'Oliva. It's also possible to visit the old prison buildings. Boats leave Stintino at 9.30am and return at 4.30pm.
Barbagia
Discover Sardinia's wild interior (and bizarre festivals)
The mountainous region of Barbagia has wonderful trails for walkers, and many of its own festivals, including the extraordinary Mamoaida (February), a truly bizarre re-enactment of the victory of Barbagian shepherds over Saracen invaders: the Issohadores ('shepherds' dressed in red felt waistcoats) lead, by rope, the Mamuthones ('captured Saracens' wearing black wooden masks and sheepskins with cowbells attached) through the streets.
Hundreds of murals colour the streets of Orgosolo and have much to impart about the strength of resistance on the island. Themes range from the depiction of rural life – including the work of women and shepherds – to the socio-political struggles for power.
How we choose
Every attraction and activity in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from world-class museums to family-friendly theme parks – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up to date recommendations.
About our expert
Jan Fuscoe is Telegraph Travel's Sardinia expert, and spends much of the summer there. She's met a woman who weaves gold thread from giant mussel 'bisso', and hung out with a Sardinian beekeeper, but can mostly be found swimming in the sea.
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Times
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- Times
Sardinia has the best of Italy. These are its loveliest hotels
Beaches better than the sands of Campania, archaeological heritage to match Sicily, mountain hikes on a par with the Dolomites and food as inventive as any of its fellow Italian regions . . . Sardinia is truly the best of the bel paese. Most visitors, of course, come to the Med's second largest island for its beaches. Who could blame them? The coastline here is dreamy and each stretch is a world of its own. The north is the most famous, from the Costa Smeralda — the jet-set resort established by the Aga Khan, where pristine coves have views of the idyllic Maddalena archipelago — on the east side to Stintino on the west, where fabled sandy beaches melt into the sea. Then there's the south, known for family-friendly resorts along the horseshoe-shaped stretch from Pula to the capital, Cagliari, and down again to Villasimius at the southeastern tip. But that's not all. Stretching down Sardinia's wild eastern flank is a dramatic seaboard of precipitous cliffs and coves best accessed by boat (day trips leave from surrounding towns such as Cala Gonone), while down the western side, along heart-in-mouth rollercoaster roads, lie spectacular shores with thick desertlike sands and vast dunes. Tourism is relatively new here — until the Nineties the coast below Oristano was best known for its mines. Today it's called the Costa Verde, with fascinating industrial heritage to remind you of its roots. And that's the joy of Sardinia: discreet reminders of its past are everywhere. In seaside Alghero the streets are bilingual in Italian and Catalan, remembering centuries of Aragonese rule. Across the island stand 7,000 nuraghi: looming prehistoric edifices that were probably used as watchtowers. There are megalithic tombs, temples and sculptures. There are Punic citadels, Roman towns and Christian catacombs. And since most people stick to the beach, they're often all yours. One piece of advice: don't ignore the mountainous inland. This is where you'll find the real Sardinia — where the cannonau vines and clean air keep centenarians healthy, where you can hike from mountain to megalith, and where old traditions endure (the pagan-rooted carnival celebrations are the trip of a lifetime). Drag yourself off the beach and you'll find the best of Italy here. This article contains affiliate links, which can earn us revenue It's a match made in heaven: Italy's ritziest coastline and one of the world's most luxurious hotel brands. Tucked into a fold of the Porto Cervo coastline (perhaps the very poshest bit of the Costa Smeralda), the 1965-built Romazzino has a celebrated past — Princess Margaret, Grace Kelly and half the Beatles have passed through its doors — but was brought up to date with an overhaul in 2024. Not that it's had a complete facelift; there's still a retro feel to the rooms, with colourful tiles and unadorned wood furniture. Four yawning hectares of gardens distract from the sea views, interiors match the outside with granite and wood materials, and sinuous curves provide privacy away from your fellow guests. Don't miss the simple grill-on-the-sand restaurant, Éntu e B&B doubles from £1,068. Fly to Olbia The Costa Smeralda doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. Just like its glitzier cousins, this four-star sits right on the waterfront with the kind of vistas for which other Costa Smeralda hotels charge thousands. The difference? Fewer creature comforts. There's no pool, for starters, but then you don't exactly need one — the beach is right outside and the clear water is perfect for swimming and snorkelling. All 100 rooms are beach-perfect: bright, summery spaces with sea-blue tiled floors, white furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows — even in the entry-level options (though it's well worth splurging for a sea view). The sandy Cala Battistoni beach is a five-minute walk Seven nights' B&B from £789pp, including flights and car hire ( This discreet four-star keeps things tranquil on the chichi Costa Smeralda. Instead of a prime beachfront location, it's set a little back with the forested Monti Corru mountain rearing up behind. That said, you still get views of the sea and the Maddalena archipelago from just about everywhere. There's an Instagrammable feel to the rooms — all cork-panelled walls, earthy drapes and pops of sea and sun in the colourful fabrics — and even the entry-level contenders have their own independent entrance, ramping up the intimacy. You'll also find a strong emphasis on wellness, from yoga in the garden to sound Three nights' B&B from £978pp, including flights and car hire or transfers ( The clue's in the nature-centric name. This 75-room hotel sprawls in 40 acres of landscaped grounds, including those pines, and opens out on to no fewer than four secluded coves in front of the Maddalena archipelago. If you prefer nurture, there are two pools, an 800 sq m spa, tennis, padel and basketball courts, plus water sports galore. Rooms are categorised according to their location: 'Gardens' are immersed in greenery, 'Lagunas' cluster around a laid-back pool of the same name, and 'Sea Views' do exactly what they say on the tin. As night falls, the focus moves inwards — there's even a nightclub, with DJs and live music taking Room-only doubles from £294. Fly to Olbia You're not far from the glittering waters of the Costa Smeralda, yet you also get a taste of the real, mountainous Sardinia at this hotel sculpted from an old stazzu (farmstead) and wedged among boulders. Between rocks and greenery, its entry-level rooms accentuate that wilderness is somehow more atmospheric than pricier categories with far-off sea views. In all cases you'll get rustic-chic style (hand-carved bed frames, rough-painted walls), a terrace and — for Pool Junior Suites and above — your own tiny pool. The Michelin-starred restaurant, Il Fuoco Sacro, creates dishes from the hotel farm's vegetables, cheese and even some meats, while the smallish communal pool overlooks the Gulf of B&B doubles from £391. Fly to Olbia 'Nest' is no exaggeration: this three-bedroom villa is perched in the undergrowth above the coast, slotted into a landscape of olives and pines. Your bird's-eye view means the Costa Smeralda twinkles in the distance as the house is enfolded in greenery. Those bright colours are all visible from the oversized windows in your living room and from the terrace and pool, which point towards the bay. With two king rooms and a twin, this is a particularly good bet for families with older kids. It's just over a mile's drive to the sandy, forest-backed Sciumara Seven nights' self-catering for six from £3,046. Fly to Olbia Shimmy west from the Costa Smeralda and you'll hit the far northwestern tip of Sardinia, a curled finger beckoning to Corsica as it stretches north. Jaw-droppingly beautiful, this area offers soft dunes, long beaches and quick hops to Asinara, the 'donkey island' just offshore, which isn't home to just any old donkeys, but indigenous white-coated ones. Don't worry about the 'club' in the name — this is a great little four-star containing just 48 rooms, all with balconies, in 10,000 sq m of grounds. The pool is filled with saltwater while the beach, facing Asinara, is private. Kids' play areas, tennis and beach-volleyball courts make it a good bet for families too. La Pelosa, possibly Sardinia's lushest beach, is just over a mile Five nights' B&B from £462pp, including flights ( • 19 of the best family hotels in Sardinia A wild headland towards the northwest tip of the island isn't the glam Sardinia of holiday brochures. Instead it's a more remote and back-to-nature kind of place, and all the better for it. Inside a namesake protected area, the clifftop Villa Nurra is an old farmhouse converted into a four-bedroom family-friendly villa whose walled garden, fenced-off pool and bunk beds render it a good fit for families with younger kids. The decor is pleasantly rustic, typified by exposed stone walls, while the sea is visible beyond the garden and fields of cows and Seven nights' self-catering for nine from £2,855. Fly to Alghero Sardinia produces some of Italy's best wines, and you'll be a short stagger upstairs from nightly samples at this vino-themed stay in the countryside near Alghero. A former farmhouse swaddled by 44 acres of vineyards and olive groves, it's now a six-room retreat for anyone aged 12 and over. Pair mornings by the pool with afternoons of tastings (try the home-grown vermentino), tours of those groves or a bike ride into town — Alghero is half an hour away. Rooms are simple but tasteful — think wooden floorboards, cheerfully tiled bathrooms and the odd wooden beam — while even the cheapest have sofa-filled balconies overlooking the Seven nights' B&B from £1,199pp, including flights and car hire ( Sea vistas needn't be expensive. Etched into a cliffside, the four-star Petraladda has views for days: of the multicoloured houses of neighbouring town Castelsardo, clinging to the cliff; of the small Pedraladda beach, immediately below; and of the sea ambling towards the Strait of Bonifacio and Corsica. Drink them all in from its rooftop pool, or from the floor beneath, where a restaurant juts out over the blue, or from your window. In each bedroom sunny yellows and sea blues complement the colours outside; splash out on a still affordable superior for some of those sea Seven nights' B&B from £594pp, including flights and transfers Get the best of both worlds courtesy of this castlelike grande dame. You'll be right in the middle of Alghero, the delectable seafront town that's more Catalan than Italian thanks to its past rulers, yet also far from the crowds on your very own private peninsula. Italian royals used to love this escape, separated from the masses by two hectares of grounds. Today its 24 rooms still have that classical style with lashings of drapery, antiques galore and views over gardens or the sea. Flop by the saltwater pools or set up a lounger on one of the tongues of rock extending into the B&B doubles from £223. Fly to Alghero As the summer holidays drag on, well-heeled parents sigh and think of Forte Village. It's not just that the southern coast east of Cagliari is more family-friendly than the Costa Smeralda. This resort is also legendary for providing the kids with so much to do: bowling, ceramics classes, a waterpark, even a Barbie-themed area. Feeling competitive? Train them up at one of Forte's academies, where the great and good of the sporting world often shower a bit of stardust on the little blighters. Tennis, fencing, dance and boxing — they're all on offer. There's plenty for parents too, including the Acquaforte Thalasso and Spa, which specialises in seawater treatments and has circuits taking in six Half-board doubles from £454. Fly to Cagliari Here's your leafy retreat in Sardinia's capital: an elegant art nouveau mansion inside one of the poshest parts of the city, turned into a graceful 19-room hotel (having also once been a convent). Depending on the category, your room, designed by the owner, Lucina Cellino, might have an exposed-stone wall, an in-room hot tub or a soothing view over the back lawn. Whichever you pick, you'll enjoy this home-from-home. The staff are invariably delightful, the public areas are drenched in art and the garden sunloungers instil a holiday vibe whether you're on your first or last night. It's an easy drive to one of Italy's best archaeology museums in the Castello B&B doubles from £102. Fly to Cagliari An hour's drive southwest of Cagliari, past the ancient Phoenician city of Nora, gets you to Chia, one of the southernmost points of Sardinia (next stop: Tunisia). This is a coastline of immense beauty and family-friendly calm-watered beaches, and the resort of Chia Laguna, overlooking a flamingo-filled lagoon, makes the most of it. One of three hotels here, its family-centric Conrad has a kids' club hosting youngsters up to 17 years old, a children's pool and activities for teens including riding, tennis, snorkelling and, new for 2025, a football academy. Modern rooms keep the focus on the outside through the huge windows or patio doors. Choose either the hotel's Laguna (closer to the sea; better for couples) or Oasis (family-friendly; immersed in gardens) B&B doubles from £210. Fly to Cagliari On Sardinia's southeastern tip, astride the deliciously named Capo Carbonara, is peaceful Villasimius, where white-sand beaches are two-a-penny. The Stella Maris sits on one of its own so, while there's an on-site pool, you'd be mad not to swap it for the loungers and parasols set up on the sand. A four-star, it's secluded from other hotels and set in a pine forest that backs on to the shore. They aren't afraid of colour here, with pastel greens, soft yellows and emerald pine tones on the walls. All 49 rooms also have balconies, affording inland views that are just as soothing as those of the Five nights' half-board from £1,302pp, including flights and transfers ( • 24 of the best things to do in Sardinia 'Retreat' is no exaggeration for this eight-bedroom villa, tucked away in the forested hills behind Sardinia's less-visited southwest coast. Perched on an eyrie-like hillock from which you can survey the landscape as it unfurls to the sea, it has everything you need: proper lawns, enough loungers for everyone around the 15m pool and even a spit roast with the barbecue so you can have a go at cooking Sardinia's famous porceddu (suckling pig). Oh, and there's a vast shaded table area for everyone to enjoy it in. Inside, it's a modern affair with contemporary art and film posters on the walls, and windows that perfectly frame the wild outdoors. Grab a bike from downstairs — the sprawling, sandy Portixeddu beach, popular with surfers and one of the area's largest, is an easy ride Seven nights' self-catering for 16 from £3,448. Fly to Cagliari Here's a case of Robinson Crusoe meets five-star luxury. It took three years to refurbish what used to be an old mining warehouse (and, later, a simple hotel) on the beach into today's top-notch resort, and plenty of wildness remains. For starters, they didn't redo the unpaved road that leads here, crossing some of Europe's highest dunes on its way, and the hotel really does sit right on the sand. Despite such a spectacular location, it's not all about what lies outside the deceptively simple rooms, where sand-coloured walls give way to sandy patios. There's an art collection too, including pieces designed for the B&B doubles from £265. Fly to Cagliari If it was good enough for the ancients, it's good enough for us. Sardinia's Nuragic people were the first to settle the Sinis peninsula, on the west coast near what is now the city of Oristano. Later, the Phoenicians turned it into a trading port, and they were followed by the Carthaginians, Romans and Spanish. You can see the remains of these civilisations at Tharros, an archaeological site racked along the cliff, and stay nearby in the small town of Cabras, where this four-star 'scattered hotel' (an Italian speciality) is spread across several buildings around town. The 1950s Laguna building has six classic-looking rooms overlooking the pretty Cabras lagoon, with a birdwatching terrace on the roof. Note that as this is an albergo diffuso, the buildings aren't always manned, giving the vibe of a more independent B&B doubles from £121. Fly to Cagliari It takes patience to reach the east coast of Sardinia — this is the wildest side of the island, where roads peter out into tracks and sheer cliffs dive into the sea — but if you make the trek, you're rewarded with pebbly coves that have nary another person on them. This sweet 40-room four-star manages the best of both worlds: it's plum in Cala Gonone town itself, yet steeped in clifftop greenery and just 300m from the pebbly Palmasera beach. Pared-back rooms emphasise the greens and blues outside. There's a pool, a tennis court, a five-a-side football pitch and a kids' playground in the grounds, while the restaurant enables full-board stays if you just want to Seven nights' half-board from £1,004pp, including flights and car hire ( • The magical crowd-free Italian city that stays warm in winter Round up the family because this nine-room villa is the stuff of dreams — and it becomes attainable if you can fill it up. On the beach at Capo Coda Cavallo, or Cape Horsetail, which flicks upwards into the Tyrrhenian Sea about 12 miles southwest of Olbia, it has direct access to two beaches, as well as its own infinity pool beside the Mediterranean scrub. Wallowing in an acre of coastal gardens, it has room for loungers on the lawn, a pine-shaded dining area and even a patio cantilevered over the beach. Inside lie slick, brightly painted rooms, as well as a cottage suite in the garden, with floor-to-ceiling windows always pointing you outside. Rates include a housekeeper, butler and cook, but not Seven nights' self-catering for 17 from £38,299 ( Fly to Olbia If you prefer the wild east of Sardinia but don't want to scrimp on comforts or ease, pick this: a two-bedroom apartment overlooking a sandy beach outside Arbatax, one of the east coast's larger (though still small) resorts. This is Capo Bellavista, or Cape of Good View, and that's no exaggeration. Facing towards mainland Italy, it's a place of dazzling dawns and a jumping-off point for the beaches and coves along this stretch. Though the flat is compact — a double room, a twin and a sofa bed, all sharing one bathroom — it offers sweeping views of the bay from a large Seven nights' self-catering for six from £1,967. Fly to Olbia This dubs itself an 'experience hotel' and that's spot-on. In the island's wild entroterra, or interior, Su Gologone offers activities such as trekking through canyons and caves, taking a 4×4 up the mountainside or dropping in on Europe's largest karst sinkhole. Back at base you can learn embroidery, make ceramics, stargaze or listen to traditional tenores singers every Friday night. The hotel is a repository of Sardinian art — its owner, Giovanna Palimodde, has collected about 900 works — while the bedrooms, always stylish, range from rustic doubles full of traditional Sardinian artisanship to the outrageously romantic Wild Suite, which is wholly B&B doubles from £244. Fly to Olbia Of all 7,000 nuraghi in Sardinia, only one enjoys Unesco world heritage status: the formidable Su Nuraxi di Barumini, a vast defensive complex spread along a plain in central southern Sardinia. Fifteen minutes' drive east is the village of Gergei and this luxury four-room B&B, lovingly converted from a 19th-century farmhouse (one room's in a stable-like building) into an upmarket take on how its owner Samuel Lai's ancestors would have lived. That means low lighting, exposed-stone walls, headboards made from traditional orbace wool, artisanal carpets and pick-your-own eggs for breakfast. For the full slow tourism experience, take a ricotta-making class with Lai — he's a cheesemaker by B&B doubles from £103 ( Fly to Cagliari • The charming Italian island where our war correspondent goes to relax In the highlands behind the Costa Smeralda, Cascioni manages to combine five-star luxury with eco-friendly policies encompassing renewable energy, electric house cars, re-used water and organic farming, for starters. Within an 18-hectare estate overlooking the Padula Saloni nature reserve and lagoon, this is a boho kind of luxury: the bedrooms, all of which feature understated whitewashed walls and wooden bed frames, get their own shaded patios, ringed by olive and mastic trees. Guests can collect their own veg and eggs, then have them cooked to order; spa treatments use products based on Sardinian herbs and local honey. The pool suites have their own pint-sized pools surrounded by Seven nights' B&B from £1,799pp, including flights and car hire ( You're only half an hour away from the Costa Smeralda beaches, but up here in the mountainous highlands behind the coast you're in another world. Not just the world of rolling hills and boulder-strewn peaks but also a liminal world between the living and the dead. Around Luogosanto ('sacred place') is a land of prehistoric stone circles, nuraghe and tombe dei giganti (megalithic burial sites), as well as gargantuan olive trees that are more than 1,000 years old. Gallicantu takes those eternal peace vibes and adds olive groves, beehives, pick-your-own vegetable patches and a cherry orchard. The simple whitewashed rooms overlook granite boulders, the pool is surrounded by olive and myrtle trees, and a cave-turned-wine cave is the ideal aperitivo B&B doubles from £182. Fly to Olbia
Daily Mail
2 hours ago
- Daily Mail
Barron Trump's best friend claims he got ICE to detain world's biggest TikTok star Khaby Lame
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- The Guardian
Rachel Roddy's salad of hazelnuts, gorgonzola and honey dressing
Recently, I listened to the Italian chefs Niko Romito and Salvatore Tassa in conversation about Italian food culture, and in particular the role of the trattoria. During the warm conversation, Romito, who is one of Italy's most visionary chefs and whose Ristorante Reale in Abruzzo has three Michelin stars, spoke about the first time he ate at Tassa's Nu' Trattoria Italiana dal 1960 in Acuto, which is in the province of Frosinone about an hour south of Rome. Romito recalled the homely atmosphere and Tassa as an old-school host: welcoming, communicative and the conduit (which didn't sound pretentious when he said it) between local traditions, producers and those who came to eat. But Romito also described a dish of onions, simply braised, but of such goodness that he couldn't stop thinking about and imagining them. In fact, Romito credits those onions as being the starting point for one of his own most well-known dishes: 'absolute' onion broth with parmesan-filled pasta and toasted saffron. Tassa returned the affection and respect, before both chefs reminded those of us listening that everything begins and ends with the ingredients. On the bus on the way home, I kept thinking about Romito thinking about those braised onions, which led me to think about the times I have left a table in a trattoria, restaurant, cafe, pub, chip shop or friend's house really thinking about something. And how those thoughts are quite rare and completely different from simply remembering a dish or liking something; they are vivid and intrusive thoughts. The deep-fried mashed potato and mozzarella ball from the canteen just under our flat last week; the gravy around the liver and onions at a local trattoria; hazelnuts on the salad at the same trattoria; a plate of green beans that tasted like butter; the honey dressing on a salad that has been nagging me since January. This week's column is an attempt to deal with some of that nagging by combining elements of two salads that have stayed with me like an anxious memory. The first is the bitter greens and toasted hazelnut salad at a trattoria called Piatto Romano here in Testaccio, while the second is the radicchio, almond, gorgonzola and honey salad from Bocca di Lupo in Soho, London. I did feel a bit like Romito, taking the inspiration into my kitchen, although I can't claim to have invented anything. I can confirm, though, that there is no better way to dress a salad than with hands (very clean or covered with those very thin rubber gloves), because it means every single leaf gets the benefit of the dressing. You can use any leaves, but a mixture of something crisp such as romaine, little gem or beluga chicory alongside the softer leaves of round radicchio all work well. And look out for creamier gorgonzola dolce (sweet) rather than the firmer gorgonzola piccante (sharp). Alongside bread, and with the option of more cheese, this salad is a light meal for two; it also goes well with roast chicken, baked potatoes or alongside a couple of other salads. I would suggest putting it with deep-fried potato balls, but I have not worked through that thought yet. Serves 2-4 1 romaine lettuce, or two little gems1 small head radicchio 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp honey 1 tbsp red-wine vinegar1 tsp dijon mustard Salt 100g toasted hazelnuts 150g gorgonzola dolce, broken into small pieces Break all the lettuce into leaves, wash them in cold water, dry thoroughly, then rip into bite-sized pieces. Working in a large bowl, use a balloon whisk to mix the olive oil, honey, red-wine vinegar, dijon mustard, a teaspoon of warm water and a pinch of salt into an emulsified dressing, adjusting to taste. Add the leaves to the bowl and toss really well so every leaf is coated – your hands are easily the best tool for this. Add half the nuts and half the cheese, then gently toss again. Tip the dressed salad on to a large plate, scatter over the remaining cheese and nuts, and serve immediately.
