How to Wash Linen the Right Way

Vogue

2 days ago

There's nothing cooler than wearing linen in the summer. That's not hyperbole: Science says that linen truly is the most comfortable fabric to wear in warm temps—even more so than cotton or silk. It makes sense: 'You can usually feel the texture: slightly crisp, cool to the touch,' says Melia Long, executive laundry professional at Poplin. 'It softens beautifully with time and wear.'
As breezy as the fabric may be, taking care of your linen dresses, shirts, and matching sets doesn't always feel so effortless. Linen is prone to shrinking, wrinkling, and—because it often comes in white—staining. Why must all good things come with a catch?
Not to fear. Below, laundry and fabric care experts share tips for how to wash linen, as well as tricks for preventing shrinkage and removing stains without stress. Let the easy-breezy days of summer—linen dressing—begin.
What is linen made of?
Linen is a natural fiber that comes from the flax plant, the same plant from which we get flax seeds. Flax has been grown for food and fiber for millenia—archealogists say there's evidence that people were cultivating it at least as far back as 36,000 years ago. 'It's one of the oldest and most sustainable textiles in the world,' explains laundry expert Alicia Sokolowski of AspenClean. 'The flax stalks are harvested, dried, and processed to extract long fibres, which are then spun into yarn and woven into fabric. Linen is natural, biodegradable, and loved for its strength, texture, and ability to wick moisture.'
Does linen shrink?
Linen can definitely shrink—'especially if it's not pre-washed before the first cleaning or if it's exposed to high heat,' Long says. The good news? Most linen clothing is made from pre-washed linen. Still, it's a good idea to exercise caution, since linen is a natural fiber and all. 'It's best to wash it gently in cool or lukewarm water and avoid high dryer settings to preserve its shape and size,' advises Sokolowski.
Can you machine wash linen?
Save your dry cleaning budget: Linen can be washed in the machine. 'Linen holds up well in the wash, and most modern linen pieces are machine-washable,' explains Long. 'Just make sure to use a gentle cycle, cold or lukewarm water, and a mild detergent. Over-agitating or using hot water can lead to shrinkage or fraying, especially along seams.'
Can you put linen in the dryer?
While you could put linen in the dryer, Long says it's 'not ideal if you're trying to preserve the garment long-term.' If you really want to speed up the drying process, however, she recommends using the dryer on low for a few minutes, or 'just enough to loosen up the wrinkles.' From there, you can hang the garment or lay it flat to dry. 'Linen dries quickly, so you don't need much heat to get the job done,' says Long.
Is it best to hand wash linen?
While it never hurts to be gentle with your favorite linen pieces, Sokolowski says that 'hand-washing your linen isn't necessary.' She advises doing it only for extra delicate or embroidered pieces. If you do decide to go the hand-washing route, use lukewarm water and a mild, natural detergent. 'Avoid wringing to prevent damaging the fibers,' Long adds.
Do you ever need to dry clean linen?
Most everyday linen items—like your wardrobe essentials, napkins, table cloths, and bedding—don't require dry cleaning. The exception? Tailored pieces featuring complex construction. 'Structured items like linen suits, jackets, or lined dresses may benefit from professional care,' says Long. 'Always check the care labels for guidance.'
How to get stains out of linen?
The key to getting stains out of linen is to act quickly. 'The sooner you treat the stain, the better,' Sokolowski says.
Below, a step-by-step guide to getting stains out of linen: