‘Worst airport': Strict rule has some passengers venting
Darwin International Airport (DRW), Northern Territory.
The flight
Qantas QF841 from Darwin to Sydney.
The departure
After disembarking from an APT cruise at the Port of Darwin, I board a ship-organised bus transfer to the airport. It takes about 20 minutes, door to door. We can't check in for our 1.30pm flight until two hours before take-off, so we have time to kill landside.
The look
The size and facilities are on par with some regional Australian airports, even though this is an international one. It's airy and minimalist, leaning into the Top-End aesthetic with oversized overhead fans, extra-high ceilings and Indigenous art on the walls.
Check-in
They're pretty strict in Darwin about not opening the check-in counters and baggage drop until about two hours before flight take-off. It's one of the leading gripes in online reviews. A quick Google search of the airport reveals some big opinions: 'This is the worst airport I have been in,' writes one on TripAdvisor. 'Darwin Airport is dreadful,' says another.
We sit in air-conditioned comfort for 90 minutes with our luggage, waiting and wishing it was time to access the Qantas Club on the other side of the security checkpoints. It's not ideal, but hardly a crime against humanity. During pandemic-era travel chaos, I survived a three-hour wait in searing July heat just to get inside the terminal at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. I've seen dreadful, and this ain't it.
Some cruise passengers opt to pay $30 for a pass to relax by the pool at Mercure Darwin Airport Resort, next to the airport terminal. The $30 is valid for food and beverage credit, and the landscaped gardens and pool look inviting. When check-in does open, we collect our boarding passes from a Qantas representative, weigh our suitcases and send them on their way.
Security
There are three screening lanes, but only one is open. Electronic devices may stay inside carry-on bags. The line is fairly short, about 10 people deep, and moves quickly.
Food + drink
There's one cafe, Pronto, in the departures zone. It sells coffee, soft drinks, sandwiches and snacks. I pay $8 for a mineral water and lament that I'm no longer on an all-inclusive cruise ship. After the bag-screening zone, there are a few coffee shops, and decent takeaway from Roll'd Vietnamese and Red Rooster (it's the first RR I've seen in an airport; can recommend the roast chicken roll, but not the inflated airport prices). If you can access the Qantas Club, it's a relaxing place to eat, drink and await a long flight.
Retail therapy
Here's a surprise: the airport is home to the largest Relay – a traveller-focused store – in the southern hemisphere, with products worth buying. Much of the merch is from NT-owned producers and features Indigenous prints, art and stories. Pick up last-minute gifts or souvenirs of books, toys, clothing, water bottles and scarves. There are also plenty of tech items, travel accessories, sunglasses and snacks for sale.
Passing time
This really depends on how long you're here. There's fast, free Wi-Fi and some automated massage chairs, a bit of art on the walls and the aforementioned shops. It kept us busy enough for a couple of hours, but I'd be heading to the nearby resort pool if my flight was delayed.
The verdict

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