Why are Gwyneth Paltrow and TikTokkers shunning sunscreen, despite the science? Fear over unknown chemicals and a distrust of commercial brands is fuelling DIY alternatives to proper sun care

South China Morning Post

3 days ago

When
Gwyneth Paltrow shared her skincare routine in a 2021 YouTube video for Vogue, fans were captivated – until she dropped her take on SPF. She wrapped up with a dab of Tinted Sunscreen SPF 30, casually mentioning, 'I'm not a head-to-toe latherer of sunscreen, but I like to put some on my nose and the area where the sun really hits.' A few dainty dabs, and that was it. Viewers didn't miss a beat, pointing out that a light tap of sunscreen won't exactly fend off UV rays, sparking a spirited debate online.
Some social media influencers are against the use of sunscreen, despite demonstrable benefits. Photo: Handout
For a minute, it seemed like sunscreen was a done deal: essential, end of story. Then
TikTok popped up with a plot twist – 'Is sunscreen actually harmful?' Suddenly, SPF sceptics were everywhere, tossing around claims of toxicity like it was the newest health fad. The beauty industry is now in full-on damage control mode, trying to keep up as the anti-sunscreen train gains momentum.
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Sunscreen's role once seemed obvious, but with TikTok setting trends, SPF has somehow lost its shine. Influencers are hyping unprotected sun exposure and even home-made sunscreens, setting back years of progress in sun safety and giving dermatologists a collective headache. Chinni Choi, NARS Hong Kong lead artist, warns that skipping SPF 'can accelerate skin ageing, as ageing slows down the renewal of epidermal cells, leading to keratin build-up and decreased cellular activity'. Fellow NARS artist
Phoenix Mok agrees, noting, 'Especially for facial skin, not using sunscreen can cause ultraviolet rays to stimulate the underlying melanocytes, leading to pigmentation and the formation of dark spots.'
Influencers on TikTok are spreading misinformation about sunscreen's safety. Photo: Handout
The anti-sunscreen movement seems to trace back to claims that SPF is secretly toxic. TikTok creators have called out ingredients such as oxybenzone and benzene, painting them as villains. Sure, a few sunscreens were pulled due to benzene contamination, but here's the thing: benzene wasn't meant to be there in the first place. 'While there have been concerns about ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate, particularly regarding coral reef effects, the FDA-approved ingredients in sunscreens have decades of safety data,' explains
Dr Ahmad Chaudhry , dual board-certified dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs. So unless someone's mixing up their own 'natural' SPF in the kitchen, commercially available sunscreens are the safest bet.
One big concern is that sunscreen leads to vitamin D deficiency. Yes, our bodies produce vitamin D from sunlight, but we don't need to roast ourselves to get enough. Felix Law, a senior trainer at Laura Mercier Hong Kong, clarifies: 'While sunscreen may reduce the amount of vitamin D produced in the skin, it does not prevent all vitamin D synthesis.' So even with regular sunscreen, you're still getting what you need. 'The impact of sunscreen on vitamin D absorption is actually limited,' adds Choi. And just to be safe, there's always food. 'We can also obtain vitamin D through our daily diet, so maintaining a balanced and healthy diet allows us to get enough vitamin D without deficiency, even when applying sunscreen,' says Mok.
Lab-tested sunscreen is far superior to anything you can concoct in your home. Photo: Handout
And then there's tanning – the age-old pursuit of that sun-kissed glow. Some influencers are out here calling unprotected sun exposure 'natural' and 'healthy,' but dermatologists have long warned that tanning is really just skin damage in disguise. That bronze glow? It's the skin screaming, 'Help!' Each tan adds up, leading to premature ageing and raising the risk of skin cancers like melanoma, known for its aggressive nature.