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Why are Gwyneth Paltrow and TikTokkers shunning sunscreen, despite the science? Fear over unknown chemicals and a distrust of commercial brands is fuelling DIY alternatives to proper sun care
Why are Gwyneth Paltrow and TikTokkers shunning sunscreen, despite the science? Fear over unknown chemicals and a distrust of commercial brands is fuelling DIY alternatives to proper sun care

South China Morning Post

time2 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • South China Morning Post

Why are Gwyneth Paltrow and TikTokkers shunning sunscreen, despite the science? Fear over unknown chemicals and a distrust of commercial brands is fuelling DIY alternatives to proper sun care

When Gwyneth Paltrow shared her skincare routine in a 2021 YouTube video for Vogue, fans were captivated – until she dropped her take on SPF. She wrapped up with a dab of Tinted Sunscreen SPF 30, casually mentioning, 'I'm not a head-to-toe latherer of sunscreen, but I like to put some on my nose and the area where the sun really hits.' A few dainty dabs, and that was it. Viewers didn't miss a beat, pointing out that a light tap of sunscreen won't exactly fend off UV rays, sparking a spirited debate online. Some social media influencers are against the use of sunscreen, despite demonstrable benefits. Photo: Handout For a minute, it seemed like sunscreen was a done deal: essential, end of story. Then TikTok popped up with a plot twist – 'Is sunscreen actually harmful?' Suddenly, SPF sceptics were everywhere, tossing around claims of toxicity like it was the newest health fad. The beauty industry is now in full-on damage control mode, trying to keep up as the anti-sunscreen train gains momentum. Advertisement Sunscreen's role once seemed obvious, but with TikTok setting trends, SPF has somehow lost its shine. Influencers are hyping unprotected sun exposure and even home-made sunscreens, setting back years of progress in sun safety and giving dermatologists a collective headache. Chinni Choi, NARS Hong Kong lead artist, warns that skipping SPF 'can accelerate skin ageing, as ageing slows down the renewal of epidermal cells, leading to keratin build-up and decreased cellular activity'. Fellow NARS artist Phoenix Mok agrees, noting, 'Especially for facial skin, not using sunscreen can cause ultraviolet rays to stimulate the underlying melanocytes, leading to pigmentation and the formation of dark spots.' Influencers on TikTok are spreading misinformation about sunscreen's safety. Photo: Handout The anti-sunscreen movement seems to trace back to claims that SPF is secretly toxic. TikTok creators have called out ingredients such as oxybenzone and benzene, painting them as villains. Sure, a few sunscreens were pulled due to benzene contamination, but here's the thing: benzene wasn't meant to be there in the first place. 'While there have been concerns about ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate, particularly regarding coral reef effects, the FDA-approved ingredients in sunscreens have decades of safety data,' explains Dr Ahmad Chaudhry , dual board-certified dermatologist at Scandinavian Biolabs. So unless someone's mixing up their own 'natural' SPF in the kitchen, commercially available sunscreens are the safest bet. One big concern is that sunscreen leads to vitamin D deficiency. Yes, our bodies produce vitamin D from sunlight, but we don't need to roast ourselves to get enough. Felix Law, a senior trainer at Laura Mercier Hong Kong, clarifies: 'While sunscreen may reduce the amount of vitamin D produced in the skin, it does not prevent all vitamin D synthesis.' So even with regular sunscreen, you're still getting what you need. 'The impact of sunscreen on vitamin D absorption is actually limited,' adds Choi. And just to be safe, there's always food. 'We can also obtain vitamin D through our daily diet, so maintaining a balanced and healthy diet allows us to get enough vitamin D without deficiency, even when applying sunscreen,' says Mok. Lab-tested sunscreen is far superior to anything you can concoct in your home. Photo: Handout And then there's tanning – the age-old pursuit of that sun-kissed glow. Some influencers are out here calling unprotected sun exposure 'natural' and 'healthy,' but dermatologists have long warned that tanning is really just skin damage in disguise. That bronze glow? It's the skin screaming, 'Help!' Each tan adds up, leading to premature ageing and raising the risk of skin cancers like melanoma, known for its aggressive nature.

Is a Higher SPF Actually Better in Sunscreen? We Asked a Dermatologist
Is a Higher SPF Actually Better in Sunscreen? We Asked a Dermatologist

CNET

time7 days ago

  • General
  • CNET

Is a Higher SPF Actually Better in Sunscreen? We Asked a Dermatologist

If there's one thing you should remember to put on in the morning, it's your sunscreen (and make sure to reapply it every 2 hours). Now that summer is almost here, it's especially important that you wear sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun's harmful UV rays. But when it comes to SPF, it can get confusing with all the different choices and numbers out there. Is a higher number better? And should you choose a different type of sunscreen depending on your skin type or tone? We asked a dermatologist. What is SPF? Is higher better? SPF, or sun protection factor, describes the amount of solar energy needed to produce a sunburn on protected skin relative to unprotected skin, according to the US Food and Drug Administration. Logic would follow, then, that wearing a higher SPF would offer you better protection when you're out and about, basking in the sun's rays. Is higher SPF sunscreen more protective in a measurable way that actually matters? The tested difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 is small, according to Dr. Steven Daveluy, board-certified dermatologist and program director at Wayne State University Department of Dermatology. There was a difference of 96.7% blocking vs. 98% blocking, in one example he provided. Research on people wearing sunscreen out in "real life" has suggested higher SPFs are more protective, Daveluy said in an email. Combine this with the fact you're probably not wearing enough sunscreen -- studies have shown people apply only 25% to 50% of the amount that they should, Daveluy said -- and a higher SPF may come out reasonably more protective. "You should use about 1 ounce of sunscreen to cover your head, neck, arms and legs when wearing shorts and a T-shirt," Daveluy recommended, adding that people without hair should use a little more. "That means your 3-ounce tube of sunscreen is only three applications," Daveluy said. "Most people are not using that amount." How much SPF do you need in a sunscreen? The American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends your sunscreen be SPF 30 or higher. It also recommends you look for sunscreen that has broad-spectrum protection (it protects against UVA and UVB rays) and make sure it's water-resistant. "If you follow the recommendations for the proper amount of sunscreen, then SPF 30 is great," Daveluy said. If you think you're skimping on the layers, though, a higher SPF could offer more benefit. He added that he generally recommends looking for at least SPF 50 or 60. Does skin tone matter when choosing an SPF? People with darker skin tones have more melanin, which does offer some protection from the sun's damaging rays. For this reason, skin cancer rates in people of color are lower than rates in white people, but the risk isn't zero. Research also suggests that people of color may be more likely to experience a missed or late diagnosis of skin cancer, making outcomes more dangerous. (It's also important to note that melanoma can have other causes besides exposure to sunlight or UV rays, and can show up in areas not typically exposed to sun.) "SPF 30 is the minimum for everyone," Daveluy said. He added that tinted sunscreens may be a better fit for darker skin tones, leaving less of a white cast. "If you have very fair skin, the higher [SPF] numbers may be a good idea, especially if you aren't using the proper amount, because you will see the consequences of underuse more easily," Daveluy said. Sunscreen 'red flags' As long as you're wearing a minimum of SPF 30, applying it properly and also looking for products that are broad spectrum and water resistant, you've got the basics down. Daveluy added that for people with sensitive skin, finding a mineral sunscreen with "active ingredients of zinc and/or titanium" may be a good choice. Daveluy pointed out other measures of protecting yourself from the sun, including wearing a wide-brimmed hat, sun-protective clothing and hanging out in the shade when possible. But don't forget that sunscreen has a proven safety record going back for decades, he said. "The biggest red flags for sunscreen are any people or reports that try to tell you sunscreen isn't safe," Daveluy said.

Skincare-infused sunscreens that fight UV damage and boost skin health – can they really do it all?
Skincare-infused sunscreens that fight UV damage and boost skin health – can they really do it all?

CNA

time26-05-2025

  • Health
  • CNA

Skincare-infused sunscreens that fight UV damage and boost skin health – can they really do it all?

When it comes to sunscreens, our demands are pretty high. It has to be lightweight (no one wants to deal with a tacky finish especially in Singapore's heat and humidity), leave no white cast (an ashy-grey hue is a big no), and have high SPF protection (Singapore sits near the equator where UV intensity is at its strongest). But these days, sunscreens are promising even more than just efficient UV protection. These are often packed with skincare ingredients that claim to help improve skin health and enhance skin repair, too. According to Dr Rachel Ho, an aesthetic doctor at La Clinic, evidence for sunscreen's role in preventing or delaying signs of ageing, such as hyperpigmentation and fine lines, is well established. Dr Angeline Yong, a dermatologist and medical director at Angeline Yong Dermatology, added: 'While sunscreen itself does not actively rejuvenate the skin in the way treatments like retinoids or lasers do, its role in preventing further damage is foundational for skin repair.' Think of the use of sunscreen as playing a 'supportive role for skin barrier functions and physiological repair mechanisms and any ongoing treatments to reduce signs of ageing', said Dr Ho. In short, regular sunscreen application is crucial as it not only prevents further skin damage but also allows skin to recover and maintain its health, which promotes a more youthful appearance over time, emphasised Dr Yong. These sunscreens can be also seen as multi-tasking products that can offer additional benefits because of the ingredients in them. And with consumers becoming savvier and more demanding, sunscreens – like serums and moisturisers – have also gone down the skinification (incorporating skincare ingredients) route. The new generation of sunscreens offer not just UV protection, they now come complete with efficient formulations that are designed to care for our skin inside and out by including skin-loving ingredients like hydrating and anti-ageing actives that can improve skin texture and appearance. Thus, these sunscreens can be also seen as multi-tasking products that can offer additional benefits because of the ingredients in them, added Dr Ho. CAN NEW-GEN SUNSCREEN REPLACE SKINCARE? Now that new-gen sunscreens are packed with skincare ingredients, does that mean that we can simplify our skincare routine by omitting other skincare products, like serums and moisturisers? 'If you would like to replace your skincare steps with a new-gen sunscreen, it's important to remember that while sunscreens with added skincare ingredients – like antioxidants like Vitamin E, niacinamide or reparative peptides – can support skin health, there are still limitations so you should manage your expectations,' said Dr Yong. The extent of benefits is variable and formula-dependent, as sunscreens with niacinamide listed at the bottom of its ingredient list are not the same as niacinamide serums that contain 5 per cent of the key active ingredient, added Dr Ho. This is because the benefits of these actives are secondary to the primary goal of UV blocking, explained Dr Yong. Thus, 'while some sunscreens may offer hydration or brightening properties, they shouldn't replace dedicated treatments for specific concerns'. Instead, assess your skin's needs and specific concerns to determine whether you can simplify your routine or if additional products are necessary for optimal skin health. SKIP YOUR SERUM OR MOISTURISER If your sunscreen is highly moisturising and you have normal, combination or oily skin. If your skin concerns are mild – a sunscreen with niacinamide and Vitamin E may replace a serum step as it can offer light hydration and a slight brightening effect, which is sufficient for general skin health maintenance. DON'T SKIP YOUR SERUM OR MOISTURISER If you have dry or dehydrated skin as most sunscreens don't provide enough long-term moisture. If you have specific skin issues like acne, hyperpigmentation or signs of ageing. This is because skincare actives in sunscreens are usually at lower concentrations and using a dedicated serum may be more effective. If your sunscreen delivers a matte finish because oil-free mattifying sunscreens can be drying. If you're dealing with a colder or drier climate. Layering a moisturiser not only helps with skin hydration, but can also protect the skin barrier as well. Consider these skincare ingredients in your new-gen sunscreen to boost skin health: Niacinamide: Soothes inflammation, brightens and supports skin barrier function. Antioxidants (Vitamin E, ferulic acid): Boosts UV protection by scavenging free radicals, providing an extra layer of protection against skin ageing. 6 SUNSCREENS THAT GO BEYOND UV PROTECTION 1. Re:erth Radiance Defense SPF50+/PA++++, S$65 This lightweight sunscreen also works hard to suppress the inflammation from the release of DAMPs (damage-associated molecular pattern) molecules that cause skin ageing. The secret lies in its blend of Japanese spring turmeric, carnosine, chestnut rose fruit, bilberry leaf and rose myrtle fruit extracts to brighten the skin tone, soothe the skin and reduce ROS (reactive oxygen species) that can damage skin's collagen and elastin. 2. Paula's Choice 5% Vitamin C Sheer Moisturizer SPF50, S$65 A sunscreen that doubles up as an anti-ageing moisturiser, it contains high SPF properties to protect against harmful UVA and UVB rays while also visibly brightening a dull complexion at the same time thanks to the 5 per cent vitamin C. Plus, the inclusion of algae-derived amino acids also helps strengthen the skin for a healthier complexion. Available at 3. Shiseido Perfect Sun Protector Lotion SPF50+/PA++++, S$70 Enriched with a new SynchroShieldRepair technology, this sunscreen strengthens its protective abilities when exposed to heat, water and even sweat, keeping you well-protected. In addition, it contains a unique Profesnse CEL complex that also helps firm the skin for a plumped and more youthful looking you. Available at Shiseido store and counters. 4. Bobbi Brown Intensive Serum UV Fluid SPF50+/PA++++, S$88 A skincare-packed sunscreen, it protects against UV, blue light and pollution while also helping to improve fine lines and skin firmness with the help of narcissus tazetta bulb extract and argireline peptides. In addition, it has cordyceps and ginseng to boost skin's vitality and reveal a brighter and more radiant complexion over time. Available at Bobbi Brown store and counters. 5. Lancome UV Expert Xtreem Shield SPF50+/PA++++, S$155 Leveraging on over two decades of expertise and inspired by advanced sport conditions, this sunscreen features a unique self-recovery UV technology that reforms UV protection even with friction or mechanical stress like rubbing, so skin stays well-protected. But that's not all, it also helps reduce the appearance of dark spots, enlarged pores and skin dullness too. Available at Lancome counters. 6. Augustinus Bader The Sunscreen SPF50/PA++++, S$205 Besides UV protection, this also helps boost skin's repair from external environmental stressors at the same time. Its exclusive TFC8 complex that's packed with vitamins and amino acids together with microalgae extract restore the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while antioxidant-rich actives like raspberry seed and buriti oils, pomegranate flower, perilla leaf and Kakadu plum, to further enhance its photoprotective properties.

Vogue's Guide to the Different Types of Sunscreen You Need This Summer
Vogue's Guide to the Different Types of Sunscreen You Need This Summer

Vogue

time26-05-2025

  • Health
  • Vogue

Vogue's Guide to the Different Types of Sunscreen You Need This Summer

Ask any dermatologist what the best sunscreen is and they'll most likely tell you this: the best sunscreen is the one you'll actually use everyday. But how does one choose that perfect sunscreen that will make you remember this very important step in your routine? To figure that out, you'll have to understand what all of your options are. Below, the experts break down every type of sunscreen to help you make wise skin health (and shopping) decisions. Types of Sunscreen There are two types of sunscreens you can choose from: mineral sunscreens and chemical sunscreens. The difference between the two can be broken down as follows: Mineral Sunscreens Mineral sunscreens, also known as physical sunscreens, block the sun's harmful UV rays from penetrating the skin. As Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, explains it, mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to scatter and reflect the UV rays when it bounces off the skin to protect it from damage. There are many pros of mineral sunscreen, but they are most known to be less irritating and great for sensitive skin. Though they may leave behind a white cast, Dr. Garshick says that newer formulations have been developed to minimize that. Options like the U Beauty's Multimodal Sheer Mineral Sunscreen or Shiseido's Ultimate Sun Protector Lotion Mineral SPF 60+ provide nourishing skincare benefits while also blending quite nicely into the skin. Chemical Sunscreens According to Hadley King, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist, chemical sunscreens absorb the sun's UV rays and create a chemical reaction to turn the UV rays into heat that will be released from the skin. They're usually made of chemical ingredients such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, and homosalate, and Dr. Garshick says these formulations are generally easier to rub in and won't leave a white cast. But because they are made of various chemical filters, she does warn that some people may experience some irritation or sensitivity to these types of formulas. But a lot of formulations are made with sensitive skin in mind, such as the EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 or the Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protect SPF 50+. If you happen to like the feel of these chemical sunscreens more, you can easily opt for these gentle options over a mineral one. Lotions, Sprays, Sticks, and More Sunscreens also come in many forms. You can find a mineral and chemical sunscreen in a lotion, stick (the E.l.f. Cosmetics Suntouchable Invisi-Stick SPF 50 makes reapplying so easy while on the go), spray, and even serum format (cult-classic Australian sunscreen brand Ultra Violette is finally available in the U.S. and the Future Screen SPF 50 Facial Sunscreen Serum is a current fave among many). Mineral sunscreens also come in powder form like the classic Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50. When it comes to choosing between these types of sunscreen, Dr. King says that you should pick the one most appropriate for your lifestyle. What does SPF mean? We're always told to look for sunscreen with SPF, but what does that actually mean? SPF stands for sun protection factor and as Dr. King explains it, it measures how much a sunscreen will shield your skin from ultraviolet B (UVB) rays, which can cause sunburn.

Only one-quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says
Only one-quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says

CNN

time24-05-2025

  • Health
  • CNN

Only one-quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says

Only one fourth of sunscreens on store shelves in the United States deliver safe and effective protection against the harmful rays of the sun, according to an annual report which analyzed more than 2,200 sunscreens available for purchase in 2025. 'Our criteria include the ability of the sunscreen's active ingredients to provide balanced protection against both UVA and UVB rays, as well as any hazardous chemical ingredients in the product,' said David Andrews, acting chief science officer at the Environmental Working Group, or EWG, a consumer organization that has produced the annual sunscreen guide since 2007. Released Tuesday, the 2025 Sunscreen Guide lists the best baby and child sunscreens, including those with the best ' bang for the buck;' highly rated daily use sunscreen s, including moisturizers with SPF; the best lip balms with SPF; and the top recreational sunscreens designed for outdoor activities such as sports or spending time at the beach. 'There are nearly 500 products we are recommending consumers seek out as their first option,' Andrews said. 'We want people to wear sunscreen and at the same time recognize there are other ways to protect their skin as well — seeking shade, wearing wide-brimmed hats, lightweight long-sleeve shirts and pants and covering up your feet are very effective ways, especially if you're concerned about sunscreen ingredients.' Choosing not to protect your skin from the sun, an idea promoted by some Tiktok influencers, should not be an option, according to Dr. Kathleen Suozzi, a dermatologic surgeon at Yale School of Medicine. 'Extensive research has shown that UV radiation from the sun is a significant cause of skin cancers such as melanoma. It's really indisputable at this point,' Suozzi told CNN in a prior interview. 'UV radiation has both UVA and UVB, and we know that both of them damage the DNA in skin cells.' Concerns with chemical sunscreens Sunscreens come in two types, chemical and mineral. Chemical sunscreens are designed to soak into the skin as a chemical reaction absorbs ultraviolet radiation as energy and disperses it as heat. Testing released in 2019 by the US Food and Drug Administration found seven chemical ingredients — avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, ecamsule, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate — were absorbed from the skin into the bloodstream after a single day of use. The concentration of the seven chemicals in the blood increased each day after application and remained above FDA safety levels a week later. Two of the chemicals — homosalate and oxybenzone — were still above safety thresholds at day 21. Once in the bloodstream, these chemicals can enter waterways via wastewater, threatening coral reefs and aquatic life. Due to the increasing devastation of their coral reefs, Hawaii; Key West, Florida; the US Virgin Islands; Bonnaire; Aruba; and Palau, an island in the Pacific, have banned the use of several chemical sunscreens, particularly oxybenzone. Oxybenzone has also been linked to lower testosterone levels in adolescent boys, hormone changes in men, and shorter pregnancies and disrupted birth weights in babies. However, the use of oxybenzone use has fallen dramatically, according to EWG's 2025 Sunscreen Guide. Once in 70% of non-mineral sunscreens, oxybenzone is now in only 9% of products, Andrews said. The Personal Care Products Council, which represents sunscreen manufacturers, disagreed with the report's findings. 'This report sows consumer confusion and poses a serious risk by undermining public trust in products that are scientifically proven, rigorously tested, and highly effective at protecting against harmful UV radiation,' said PCPC chief scientists and executive vice president of science, Alexandra Kowcz, in an email. Safety of mineral-based sunscreens Mineral-based sunscreens work differently. Instead of being absorbed into the skin, the minerals physically deflect and block the sun's rays. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the two FDA-approved mineral sunscreen ingredients, and they do not appear to harm marine ecosystems, Andrews said. 'Of the 2,217 products we tested for this year's report, 43% use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, up from just 17% in 2007,' Andrews said. 'That's good news for consumers and the environment.' However, some mineral products may contain chemical 'boosters' designed to artificially raise the sun protection factor (SPF), the report said. 'Using chemical boosters may result in a lower concentration of active mineral ingredients at the expenses of consumer safety,' Andrews said. 'We want to ensure these sunscreens are providing the SPF advertised on their labels as well as balanced UVA and UVB protection. Some of these boosters, such as the solvent butyloctyl salicylate, or BOS, absorb UV rays much like chemical sunscreen ingredients, Andrews said. 'Yet they're marketed primarily as solvents that improve how a product feels on the skin and reduce the white cast that mineral sunscreens can leave behind,' he said. 'BOS is structurally similar to octisalate, one of 12 chemical sunscreen ingredients the FDA has identified as needing more safety data,' Andrews added. 'However, BOS is not regulated as an active ingredient and hasn't undergone the same level of safety evaluation.' EWG first raised concerns about SPF boosters in an August 2016 letter to then–FDA Commissioner Robert Califf, urging the agency to investigate 'sunscreen ingredients that may enable manufacturers to advertise higher SPF values for their over-the-counter sunscreen products without offering users truly enhanced protection from UVA and UVB rays.' The agency should also investigate any correlation 'between protection from skin reddening, immunosuppression, long-term skin damage and cancer,' the letter said. To date, no action has been taken by the FDA, Andrews said. Additional consumer protection proposed by FDA still in limbo The FDA proposed updated rules for sunscreen safety in 2019. Industry was asked to provide additional testing on 12 sunscreen chemicals of concern, including the seven which FDA testing showed are easily absorbed into the bloodstream. That has yet to be done, Andrews said. The FDA proposal also asked manufacturers to test spray sunscreen products to prove aerosolized chemicals cannot be inhaled into the deep lung — that testing has also not occurred, he said. 'When the FDA tested aerosol cosmetics a few years ago, they found some products did have very small particle sizes that could be inhaled in the deep lung and lead to possible health harms,' Andrews said. 'The same concern applies to spray sunscreens.' According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, inhalation of such particles can cause serious health effects in individuals at greatest risk, such as 'people with heart or lung disease, people with diabetes, older adults and children (up to 18 years of age).' Yet aerosol sunscreens remain popular among consumers — 26% of the sunscreens tested were sprays — despite potential inhalation risks and the difficulty of providing even and adequate coverage with a spray, Andrews said. 'An Australian study found that even under light breeze conditions of say, 6- to 10-miles-an-hour, a significant portion of an aerosol sunscreen just blows away,' he said. 'I was at a soccer game last weekend, and when someone sprayed sunscreen, I felt like it went over the entire field. I'm not convinced they got any sunscreen on themselves.' The FDA also called for a cap of 60 SPF on sunscreen products in the 2019 proposal, saying any benefit over 60 is extremely minor. Therefore labeling sunscreens at levels higher than 60 SPF could be misleading consumers by providing a false sense of sun protection, the FDA said. That too, has not been accomplished, and consumers continue to spend money on these products, Andrews said. 'One of the primary drivers of consumer purchasing is the highest SPF number possible,' he said. 'Consumers are not getting the message that higher SPF values don't offer a clear benefit.' CNN reached out to the Department of Health and Human Services, which oversees the FDA, for comment but did not hear back before publication.

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