The cheaper, quieter Amalfi Coast alternative only in-the-know Italians visit

Telegraph

2 days ago

Envisioning Italy's coastline often conjures up the colourful cliffside villages of the Amalfi Coast, or the vibrant, emerald sea of Sardinia. However, tucked along the Adriatic coast in central Italy's Marche region, the Conero Riviera (Riviera del Conero) feels like a well-kept secret whispered only among those in the know – a slice of paradise far from the hordes.
Towering over the 20 kilometres of shoreline is Monte Conero, a 572-metre limestone promontory that disrupts the usual, flat rhythm of Italy's other Adriatic beaches. Rich vegetation, characterised by Mediterranean scrub and Aleppo pines, spills down rocky slopes to meet white-pebbled beaches and azure waters, offering a theatrical interplay between cliffs, forest and sea.
Beyond its raw nature, the coastline is punctuated by charming hilltop towns, where cobbled streets slalom past stone houses and panoramic terraces overlook the waves.
Buses and trains are few and far between in the area, meaning renting a car is the best way to get around smoothly. Fortunately, there are a number of car rental services at nearby Marche Airport, which was recently ranked as Italy's 27th busiest – far below the likes of bustling Rome Fiumicino or Milan Malpensa.
But this lack of public transport only helps to preserve Conero's authenticity. Take the walled town of Osimo, just 15 kilometres southeast of Ancona. Known locally as the 'town without heads' – a nod to the 12 headless statues which line the entrance of the town hall – Osimo's spiritual crown jewel, Cathedral of Saint Leopardo (named after the town's first saint), is a striking blend of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Just a five-minute walk from the 12th-century cathedral is the Basilica of St Giuseppe of Copertino, a church teeming with colourful Giotto-style frescoes.
Beneath the streets lies a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers, the caves of Osimo (grotte di Osimo), some of which date back 2,500 years. The multi-layered network, which can only be accessed with a tour guide, includes former worship sites, catacombs and war shelters. Of the four caves, Grotte del Cantinone is the largest.
South of Osimo is the Conero Regional Park, a protected natural area home to rare coastal fauna and wild boar – the latter of which is also a staple on the menus of local agriturismi (farmstays), which dish up farm-to-table meals including local cheeses that are washed down with a glass of Rosso Conero, a full-bodied red made with Montepulciano grapes. Agriturismo Poggio del Conero and Agriturismo La Sorgente both come highly recommended.
Trekking is a popular pastime in this neck of the woods, and though trails are well-signposted, it's advisable to check the Ente Parco del Conero website or AllTrails before heading out. The North and South Belvedere offer sweeping views of the blue-flag beaches below, whilst the Passo del Lupo trail offers a more focused view at the iconic Two Sisters (Le Due Sorelle) beach.
Folklore has it this particular beach – named after the two stacks jutting out of the sea – owes its origins to a siren who lured sailors into a cave with her voice. To help her capture them, a sea demon transformed into a rock, which then split into two parts, forming the 'sisters'. To reach this wild beach, you'll need to take a boat from the neighbouring Numana port. Note that there are no beach services available here, however, so remember to bring your own towels, food and drink.
If you're after easy-to-reach beaches with a few facilities, fret not: there are plenty in the surrounding area including, Portonovo, San Michele, Sassi Neri, Urbani and Del Frate.
Del Frate beach is closest to Sirolo, a medieval village perched on the southern slopes of Monte Conero. The village has a laid-back, quaint feel, with many small shops selling handmade goods reflecting the town's heritage, and alleyways lined with an abundance of colourful houses perfect for getting lost in.
For the best views, grab a gelato from Gelateria Quattrini (which makes classic flavours as well as experimental ones) and head over to the panoramic balcony, where rumour has it you can see Croatia on a clear day. Likewise, for aperitivo, swan over to Il Grillo to sip a glass of wine whilst snacking on olive all'ascolana, moreish green olives stuffed with mincemeat and cheese then fried in breadcrumbs.
Ristorante della Rosa and Vicolo Urbani are both good options for dinner, both offering tasting menus and their own fresh produce – though the former has the added bonus of a sea view.
Within walking distance of Sirolo is Numana, a town divided into two parts: the old-world Numana Alta and the livelier Numana Bassa. Both have easily accessible beaches with various amenities.
Specialties along the shore include moscioli di Portonovo (mussels harvested from the area and served steamed, with lemon, or tossed in pasta) and brodetto all'anconetana, a rustic fish stew made with up to 13 types of seafood simmered in tomato, garlic and vinegar. While most towns in the area serve these dishes, one no-frills local favourite in Numana is Ricci Pescato & Fritto di Ricci Fernando, known for its freshly fried fish. The fare is easy on the purse strings without scrimping on flavour.
If that isn't enough to whet your appetite, wine lovers can indulge in tastings of Rosso Conero (among others) at Fattoria le Terrazze vineyard – a winery that's been in the same family since 1882, and sits just a five-minute drive from the centre of Numana.
Another short drive – this time inland – takes you to Loreto, a hilltop town famous for its Basilica della Santa Casa, believed to house the Holy House of Nazareth, where the Virgin Mary lived and received the Annunciation. It's one of Italy's most important pilgrimage sites, and a thoroughly fitting end to your offbeat adventure in Italy's best Amalfi alternative.
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