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Simon Calder's five off-the-radar European cities to visit this spring

Simon Calder's five off-the-radar European cities to visit this spring

Independent02-03-2025
Who wants to be an 'overtourist'? Not you.
Fortunately, for every just-too-popular Amsterdam, Barcelona and Venice there are a hundred other attractive European cities that are desperate to share their charms – not least because they understand that inbound tourism is the closest that any location can get to free money.
Choosing a less-celebrated destination is a shrewd move: you can expect lower prices, thinner crowds and a warmer welcome.
On the journeys I have made in the past two years, these are the star 'off-the-radar' cities.
Aarhus, Denmark
While the UK decided it wanted nothing to do with European Capitals of Culture, in my experience, the EU honour of a year in the spotlight brings permanent improvements to a city.
Aarhus is the second city of Denmark, and has the requisite cobbled lanes with pretty cottages, where spring flowers will soon be blooming. Yet it also has an outstanding art museum in the remarkable cubes-and-circles shape of ARoS. The collection includes some works from the 18th century, but also goes for big, challenging installations of the kind that make lasting memories.
This being Denmark, gastronomy is superb, with outdoor seating beside the Aarhus River that winds through the city. Even the airport is a treat. If Ikea did aviation, this is how the experience might feel.
Béziers, France
The Mediterranean shore curves around a full 90 degrees between the celebrated French cities of Montpellier and Perpignan. Béziers is not yet on the same status. That will surely change soon as travellers realise the abundance of appeal in this hilltop city. The main attraction is the magnificent cathedral, which unusually includes a tower that you can climb without paying a fee. Adjacent is the new and marvellous Hotel de la Prison, the local jail reimagined as a boutique hotel, where I stayed for a ridiculously inexpensive €100 (£82) a night (as its reputation has grown, so have the rates).
Commanding your attention from the hotel: the nine locks of Fonseranes, a short walk from town. The Canal du Midi is hauled high above sea level by these engineering marvels. Adjacent, you can see the relics of a failed 20th-century attempt to accelerate the progress of ships to higher altitude using a 'water slope'.
Nearby attractions to fill out a short break include Gruissan – a fishing village with an amazing pink salt lagoon – and the equally underrated city of Narbonne.
Erfurt, Germany
Unlike, sadly, many British travellers, I relish discovering German cities. I will embark on just such a journey this week. I can already conjure visions of Heilbronn and Magdeburg: lanes leading to a sturdy central square dominated by a cathedral and flanked by taverns serving hearty dishes and good, strong beer. But I will also pay a return visit to Erfurt, capital of the state of Thuringia, and a singularly fine city.
The rumble of the endearingly antiquated tram network; the brutal beauty of St Mary's Cathedral; the elegant two-track Gera river, and the handsome bridges that cross it. And a development since last I visited: the newly Unesco-listed Jewish-Medieval Heritage of Erfurt, comprising the Old Synagogue, the Mikveh and the Stone House.
However dark the politics of Europe may become, the continent's deep culture prevails.
Lodz, Poland
Please practice the pronunciation of the Polish city's name ahead of your visit: 'Woodge' should do it. Now you are all set. Lodz was once at the heart of industrial Europe. It still possesses a stupendously long main street, flanked with impressive buildings. One of these is the superbly refurbished Grand Hotel, the best place I stayed in 2024. As Poland is the land of luxury for less, a chic double is on offer for around £130, including a sumptuous buffet breakfast in the former ballroom.
The many attractions include Manufaktura, a former factory reinvented as a leisure destination with some outstanding restaurants. Even the Starbucks is spectacular. The tourist office provides maps for rewarding self-guided walks around the city.
Beyond the centre, the Jewish cemetery is poignant and beautiful. Next time, I will be sure to make space for the Herbst Palace Museum, a glittering mansion.
Reggio di Calabria, Italy
Some places demand attention for a single prize. In mainland Italy's southernmost city, the big draw comprises a couple of men. The Riace Bronzes are known prosaically as A and B, but they are simply the most powerful figures from the past I have ever seen. The two life-size sculptures of naked males were created by the Greeks 2,500 years ago and found in the sea bed by a passing fisherman in 1972. Today they inhabit a climate-controlled chamber in the National Archaeological Museum in Reggio di Calabria, the nearest big city to the location where they were discovered. You must spend three minutes in a dehumidifying airlock before joining their company.
RC, as it is customarily contracted, possesses another long main street that runs parallel to the shore. Just inland, you can get some impressive views from the hillside – including, on a clear day, of a snow-draped Mount Etna across on the island of Sicily. No need, though, to take one of the many ferries shuttling across the Strait of Messina; the mainland has much appeal. Just 20 minutes north, the town of Scilla is scattered across a massive thumb of rock soaring above the Mediterranean, while an hour further along the coast Tropea is a distillation of the best of Italy's waterside towns.
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TOM UTLEY: From the bliss of my own bed to a decent cuppa... why the best part of any holiday is the heart-lifting relief of coming HOME
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TOM UTLEY: From the bliss of my own bed to a decent cuppa... why the best part of any holiday is the heart-lifting relief of coming HOME

Oh, how heartily I agree with the 52 per cent who say one of the best parts of going away on holiday is returning to the comforts of home. My only quibble is that it's the best part, bar none. We may look forward all year to getting away from it all for that summer break, studying the travel pages, thumbing through the brochures and counting the days until we can pack our bags and head for the heaven of our dreams. But on average, apparently, it takes only five days away for us to start missing everything we've left behind, from the bliss of our own beds to our familiar routines, gardens and pets and our favourite TV programmes – or simply a decent British cuppa, with proper British milk. So says a survey of 2,000 holidaymakers from the UK, published this week by the sofa retailing firm, DFS. True, there was a time in my younger days when I wished that my holidays could go on for ever. I longed to explore the whole wide world, absorbing new sights, sounds, tastes and experiences, while going home just meant the start of a new term or, later, returning to the grind of the office. But since money was always tight in my bachelor days, I never got round to venturing beyond Europe. And when marriage and the four boys came along, further clipping my wings – except on the handful of occasions when my employers sent me abroad for work – I resigned myself to putting my wilder ambitions on hold until our finances looked up and our sons were old enough to fend for themselves. These days, with the boys now grown up, the school fees behind us, the mortgage paid off – and Rachel Reeves's dreaded Budget still weeks away – I can at last afford to take the two of us just about anywhere in the world we may fancy. Yet this summer, we found five days on the Isle of Wight more than enough. The trouble is that my feet stopped itching years ago, and Mrs U seems to feel much the same way. 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For several interminable minutes, as we heaved on his shoulders and ankles, I feared that we'd have to smash this priceless artefact to get him out, and I'd have to answer for the consequences to my bank manager (not to mention the Italian police). Then there was the holiday a couple of years later, at a friend's villa in Tuscany, where the same boy broke his arm on day two, after laughing so hard at a funny book that he fell on to the stone floor from his perch on the arm of a sofa. I still shudder at the memory of our long drive in the hire car to the nearest hospital, with the poor boy screaming in pain in the back. Indeed, trips to hospital feature prominently in my memories of holidays abroad. There was the time in Normandy when son Number Two suddenly developed a mysterious illness. He wouldn't eat or sleep, and when he tried to walk he developed a terrifying limp. Frantic with worry, and fearing he had picked up something like polio (all right, neither of us is medically literate), we drove him to hospital in Bayeux. As he hobbled round the consulting room, in apparent agony, two doctors said they were as baffled as we were. It was only when they told him he'd have to stay there a couple of nights for tests that he miraculously recovered in an instant, and walked down the hospital corridor without a trace of a limp. I'll never forget what one of the doctors said to his colleague, in French, presumably thinking I wouldn't understand: 'These stupid English. They watch far too much television!' Then there was the time near Toulouse, when I managed to skewer the top of my head on a spike hanging down from a chandelier. Blood gushed from my head like a Roman candle, and our gite soon looked like the set of a gruesome Quentin Tarantino movie. 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Brit who fled to Benidorm complains about 'too many foreigners in UK'
Brit who fled to Benidorm complains about 'too many foreigners in UK'

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Brit who fled to Benidorm complains about 'too many foreigners in UK'

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Historic sea fort built to defend from French listed to sell for £1.5m & boasts nightclub, spa, and luxury rooms
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Historic sea fort built to defend from French listed to sell for £1.5m & boasts nightclub, spa, and luxury rooms

Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) A SEA fort build to defend Britain from French warships is on the market for £1.5 million. The more than 160-year-old Victorian island fort offers a luxury lifestyle, including a nightclub and a spa for the eventual buyer. Sign up for Scottish Sun newsletter Sign up 6 No Mans Fort is 35 minutes transfer time from Gunwharf Quays by boat Credit: Rightmove 6 The more than 160-year-old Victorian island fort offers a luxury lifestyle Credit: Rightmove 6 It features five bars and a restaurant Credit: Rightmove No Man's Land Fort can be found sat between Portsmouth and the Isle of Wight, offering a reclusive getaway on the Solent. It's such a classically British setting that an episode of Doctor Who was once filmed at the site. The 99,000 square foot setting is open for new owners, boasting 23 bedrooms and a helipad. It features five bars and a restaurant, as well as a "huge scope for conversion", according to the estate agent Colliers. Their website reads: "The Solent Forts date back over 160 years when fear of invasion by the French led by Napoleon III resulted in the commissioning of these sea-based defences by British Prime Minister Lord Palmerston. "With 15ft granite walls and armour plating, these magnificent structures are testament to the skill of Victorian engineering." But if the property's maritime history isn't enough for a prospective buyer, its sci-fi credentials might sway them. The fort was used as a shooting location for the classic Doctor Who story The Sea Devils, which featured Jon Pertwee as the Third Doctor. It also boasts a nightclub, pub and spa area in the exclusive location. Once upon a time, the fort was a four-star hotel, and was taken at auction earlier this year for £1.25million as an "impulse buy". Britain's newest & biggest warship HMS Prince of Wales to defy furious China and sail through Taiwan Strait Ed Jefferson, from Colliers Hotels team, told the MailOnline it offers a "rare opportunity to make a mark in a truly unique location". He added: "The remote location provides either great privacy or exclusivity for potential guests and clients. "It could be a great location for multiple hospitality and leisure operators together, or one tenant could take the whole site, we're open to proposals." The listing further says that "planning has been obtained to construct a breakwater and harbour to improve boat water access". The property was lavishly refurbished in 2015, with nearly £8million spent on the property as well as nearby Spitbank Fort. It can be found just minutes away from the Gunwharf Quays shopping centre on the waterfront in Portsmouth. The 23-bedroom floating mansion was previously on sale for £4.25million back in 2021. It was built in the 1860s by ex-Prime Minister Lord Palmerston to act as a line of defence for the British isles. 6 The property was lavishly refurbished in 2015 Credit: Alamy 6 The fort was used as a shooting location for the classic Doctor Who story The Sea Devils Credit: Rightmove

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