The Iris Virus
Shirley caught it from her grandfather at the age of 8, and when Terry later met the family, he got hooked too.
Terry says he loves the variety of colours; Shirley loves the huge blooms that 'hit you in the face as you walk into the backyard'. Terry says they make a good team because Shirley concentrates on the showing and growing and he does the digging and hybridising.
There are more than 250 species of bulb and rhizome iris. The variety that grows best in Melbourne is the tall bearded iris ( Iris x germanica cv.), which don't need much water.
The Nisbets have about 200 named varieties in their backyard. Shirley loves the bicoloured flowers. Her favourite is called 'Favourite Beau'; it has white/pale blue standards (the upright petals) and an orange 'beard' on the purple lower petals or 'falls'.
There are more than 30,000 cultivars in a huge range of colours, from yellow and brown tones to reds, blues, whites, purples and more.
Terry and Shirley have been breeding iris for 37 years, hoping to grow a green iris – it's a goal Shirley's grandfather had and they're following in his footsteps.
The couple enter their cut flowers in competitions each year and they are both very involved in the Iris Society of Australia.
Iris Growing Tips
Their peak flowering time in Melbourne is October and November, depending on the heat. Shirley says the most common reason iris aren't producing flowers is lack of sun.
Their peak flowering time in Melbourne is October and November, depending on the heat. Shirley says the most common reason iris aren't producing flowers is lack of sun. Bearded iris of all sizes need to be lifted and divided every 2-5 years because they get overcrowded as they produce more rhizomes.
Bearded iris of all sizes need to be lifted and divided every 2-5 years because they get overcrowded as they produce more rhizomes. To divide, dig the clump up with a spade, split and replant the new side rhizomes, discarding the old ones because they won't reflower. It's best to break them apart by hand.
To divide, dig the clump up with a spade, split and replant the new side rhizomes, discarding the old ones because they won't reflower. It's best to break them apart by hand. The side rhizomes or 'increases' can be replanted, even the small ones, but first trim the leaves by half and cut the roots a little.
The side rhizomes or 'increases' can be replanted, even the small ones, but first trim the leaves by half and cut the roots a little. Sometimes you might buy a young plant from a nursery that hasn't yet formed a rhizome but little side buds at the base; these can still be planted and the buds will grow new roots.
Sometimes you might buy a young plant from a nursery that hasn't yet formed a rhizome but little side buds at the base; these can still be planted and the buds will grow new roots. To replant, dig a hole, preferably facing north where it will get full sun. Add a handful of pelletised chook poo and cover with some soil to protect the roots from fertiliser burn. Plant the rhizome so the rhizome is facing north and the fan of leaves is at the back, then backfill to cover the roots.
To replant, dig a hole, preferably facing north where it will get full sun. Add a handful of pelletised chook poo and cover with some soil to protect the roots from fertiliser burn. Plant the rhizome so the rhizome is facing north and the fan of leaves is at the back, then backfill to cover the roots. Keep a light cover of soil on the rhizome to protect it from the hot Melbourne sun.
Keep a light cover of soil on the rhizome to protect it from the hot Melbourne sun. Water in well, then just once a week; overwatering is the worst you can do for iris.
Useful links
Iris Society of Australia
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