Say No-Cheese! Eateries Rise To Allergy Challenge

Time of India

2 days ago

New Delhi: One busy afternoon at Mesa Lodhi, chef Sandeep Namboodiry faced a diner whose list of restrictions would make most chefs panic. She was vegetarian, lactose intolerant, didn't want anything raw, nothing cold, no rice, and no gluten.
"In my head I wondered why she'd even want to eat out at a place like ours, where we serve all kinds of animal protein," Namboodiry recalls.
Instead of turning her away, he improvised. "I took an avocado, filled it with mildly spiced marinara sauce and plant-based cheese, and baked it. I wasn't sure what to call it, but I went back and presented it, half expecting her to just politely refuse."
To his surprise, she loved it. Not only did she finish it, she ordered it again on her next visit — and soon started bringing other guests who had similar dietary restrictions.
"Through her, we found an audience that rarely dined out because they couldn't find places willing to accommodate them," says Namboodiry.
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That single moment transformed the restaurant's approach. Mesa Lodhi invested in separate ovens for gluten-free dishes, kept oil vegetarian-only, created sugar-free and plant-based desserts, and trained staff to handle complex dietary needs.
This quiet shift is slowly becoming more visible in Delhi, where newer restaurants and chef-driven brands are treating allergies and intolerances not as inconvenient exceptions, but as part of everyday service.
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"In the Indian restaurant landscape, awareness around food allergies has grown tremendously over the last few years," says chef and consultant Megha Kohli. At her restaurant Mezze Mambo, allergen awareness starts from training and design. "Our menu includes naturally gluten-free, dairy-free and vegan options not by accident, but by design. We also use colour-coded utensils, separate boards and clear labelling to avoid cross-contamination.
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At Boya at Malcha Marg, food allergy protocols are woven into daily operations. "Our menu highlights allergens clearly, and staff are trained to proactively ask guests about allergies before an order is placed," says Bhavya Sahu. "We also follow kitchen protocols — separate utensils, clear labelling and regular training — to make sure nothing is left to chance."
Transparency is becoming the new standard. "All our menus feature an allergy index and a note encouraging guests to inform the team of allergies not specifically listed," says chef Noah Barnes of Miss Margarita by Arriba.
At Ikk Panjab, millet-based rotis are offered as an alternative for those avoiding gluten. "We also pay close attention to our cooking processes and train staff to guide guests through the menu," explains Deepika Sethi. "The goal is a safe and inclusive dining experience."
Inclusivity isn't just for premium restaurants. For brands like Wow! Momo, it has become part of their expansion strategy. "We've always seen the momo as more than just a product — it's an emotion rooted in comfort and culture," says Sagar Daryani, co-founder and CEO.
"With our new gluten-free range, we are saying indulgence should be for everyone."
Yet, making dining safe for everyone isn't easy — or cheap. "Many new outlets are aware, but catering to allergies in totality is challenging," notes a menu consultant. "Separate stations to avoid contamination often mean high investments and larger kitchens, which high city rentals don't allow."
Even with strict protocols, says chef Namboodiry, kitchens cannot always promise meals that are 100% allergen-free.
"We even source gluten-free products from specialised stores, and use separate ovens and tools, but human error always exists," he says. "It's a risk diners take whenever they eat out."
Some older establishments, especially those whose menus rely heavily on dairy and gluten-rich dishes, remain resistant. "They know their butter- and cream-heavy food can never be truly lactose- or gluten-free, so they don't even try," a restaurateur says, requesting anonymity.
Yet, across the city, the momentum is building. "In fine dining spaces, especially in restaurants serving seafood, the servers now routinely ask guests if they have allergies," says Sidhant Sharma of Hospitality Xperts. "Healthy concepts like Greenr Café and Whole Foods regularly offer gluten-free and vegan options, proving there is a demand."
Behind this evolution is often thoughtful design and detailed training.
"We train teams to be extremely careful about lactose and gluten, and make sure there is no cross-contamination," says Sid Mathur of Secret Ingredients, which has consulted for over 300 restaurant projects. "Sensitivity is growing, and chefs today know global standards and substitutes."
While dining out is still daunting for anyone with allergies, these new approaches by chefs who learn to cook with better ingredient knowledge mean diners who were once left out can finally find a seat at the table — without fear.
At Greenr Cafe, popular dishes such as pizza, pasta, pancakes and smoothie bowls have gluten- and lactose-free options. Made using sundried tomato sauce, oats and millet flour, coconut and almond milk, amaranth muesli, banana cashew creams, these dishes allow diners with food allergies to taste their favourites.
According to Nitin Dixit, co-founder of Greenr Cafe, "Due to various lifestyle and environmental factors, we have also observed that food allergies seem to be on the rise amongst our customers. As a cafe serving plant-based foods and striving for transparency, we try to accommodate as many people with food allergies as possible through our menus."
However, he regrets that given the risk of micro-allergens entering the dish preparation and the potential for a strong reaction, they now have to refuse service to anyone with severe allergies.