In this Canadian city, strolling the romantic cobblestone streets is like exploring an open-air museum

Hamilton Spectator

3 days ago

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The lobby of the ritzy Auberge Saint-Antoine in Quebec City is decorated with cracked glass jars, broken bits of mud-stained pottery and archaic ceramic pipes mounted in display cases. Billed as a 'museum hotel,' the auberge isn't simply playing up Old Quebec's history-steeped reputation: It's located on a site settled by Europeans in the 1600s, so every time the owners expand or renovate their property, they need to do a proper archeological dig, uncovering the treasures on display.
'It is essential that our hotel highlights the city's history,' says Evan Price, who co-owns
Auberge Saint-Antoine
with his family, 'and we do it in a way that blends into the design and decoration of the property.'
While this hotel, and similarly historic properties such as the legendary
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
, intentionally leans into its storied past, discovering remnants of early Canadian history is inevitable in just about every corner of Old Quebec.
Auberge Saint-Antoine, billed as a 'museum hotel,' is located on a site settled by Europeans in the 1600s.
People often describe
Quebec City
as the closest thing you can find to old European elegance in North America, but the historic quarter has a flavour and charm all its own. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site,
Vieux-Québec
was founded in the early 17th century by Samuel de Champlain.
The explorer sought a place for a New France colony on the St. Lawrence River and settled on a site bordered by the important port area, which was, for the aim of building a new country, crucial for trade and defence. Ramparts were erected to protect against attacks from the British and other potential invaders. Today, this is the only early North American settlement to have maintained those defensive walls.
The way that early settlers would have protected and simply lived in the city comes to life in these remarkably well-preserved streets. Old Quebec is divided into two sections: the Upper Town (made famous by images of Le Château Frontenac looming over a dramatic clifftop) and the riverside Lower Town. The cobblestone streets of the latter are home to Auberge Saint-Antoine, as well as must-sees like the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church and adjacent Place-Royale, the town square representing the first permanent French settlement in the Americas.
You can absorb the historic atmosphere by simply strolling around the streets of Petit-Champlain.
From here, it's possible to reach the dizzying views of Upper Town's Dufferin Terrace on foot, though the walk up is punishingly steep. Visitors with mobility issues or those simply wanting to spare their calves can hop on the Old Quebec Funicular, a short cable rail line, which has been hauling people up the hill since 1879. (Don't worry, the technology has been improved along the way.)
From both the upper and lower vantage points, there are layers of history here, representing New France settlements, British military victories and the transition toward modern Canada. Old Quebec's narrow stone streets are lined with historical buildings now housing art galleries, antique shops and the first Simons department store (which only dates back to 1870).
You can drink in the 400-year-old atmosphere by simply strolling around rue du Petit-Champlain, or dig deeper with a visit to the
Plains of Abraham
, a large green space that was the site of major French/English battles in the 1700s;
La Citadelle du Québec
, a military fortress that serves as part of the city's fortification; or Forts-et-Châteaux-Saint-Louis, an archeological crypt under Dufferin Terrace.
The Plains of Abraham, a national historic park of Canada, was the site of major French/English battles in the 1700s.
The streets of Old Quebec are undoubtedly touristy. In the peak season, the area buzzes with cruise-ship travellers trailing interpretive guides (there's no shame in lingering among them to pick up some historical facts). For every cool artisanal shop and thoughtful, chef-driven Quebecois restaurant in the area, you'll find a cheesy souvenir shop or over-crowded poutinerie, but ultimately the crowds reflect the distinctiveness of this place.
In a country with so little recorded history reaching beyond a handful of generations, being able to walk in those early settlers' footsteps is essential to understanding not only how Canada started, but also how we have evolved.
Elizabeth Chorney-Booth travelled as a guest of
Bonjour Québec
, which did not review or approve this article.