Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto, and why Paris shows rule
Yohji Yamamoto: Long hot summer in Les Halles
A memorable fashion tutorial blended with poetic politics at Yohji Yamamoto, who staged his spring/summer 2026 menswear show Thursday afternoon in his French HQ in Les Halles.
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Hard to recall a look that didn't carry a graphic message, except for the opening quartet of soft dark suits. From the opening phrases of "Hindrance Hydrogen Ions" or "Don't Look Back Be Free in Black," to "La Musique Avant Toute Chose" or "Long Hot Summer".
'Too hot, the earth has become too hot! Human beings must think about this deeply, without making wars. Politicians should be fairer otherwise the world will end soon,' opined Yohji, after taking his hat off and on several times at his bow.
Though the key fashion message was the remarkable series of cathedral-worthy stained-glass prints used in silk jackets, redingotes or elongated kimonos. All of them deconstructed. He paired many with silk dhoti pants that twisted down to just above the ankle. Completing the look with gentlemanly chalky white shirts, or hyper loose weave knits. Romantic rock-stars in a moody moment. Everything anchored by a great series of centurion sandals or fold over boxing boots.
A collection that also featured the latest collaboration with happening Tokyo-based jeweler Rie Harui of Riefe. Featuring great mesh, silver and jet bracelets; nun-style necklaces and butterfly brooches on the hems of coats.
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Asked about them, Yamamoto's response was typically lapidary: 'Yes, jewelry, as it is not so easy to show the hand, neck and foot naked, so I like them covered.'
Packed into the tiny show space was a cool front row that included Wisdom Kaye, Guram Gvasalia, JoeyStarr, Bach Buquen and Jenke Ahmed-Tailly. Many guests singing along to his soundtrack that was ironically nostalgic. Tunes like "Will You Still Love Me Tomorrow" or "Don't Look Back In Anger", but never by the original author.
'Famous love songs, because the world is becoming sad, so we need love songs. If you look back in anger your heart will be broken. Don't break your heart,' mused the 81-year-old Yohji.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten's creative director Julian Klausner staged his first men's show for the house on Thursday midday and the jury was in one second after the last model exited – it's a huge hit.
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Klausner riffed on all the elements in the men's wardrobe of founder Dries though he took the mood somewhere new – younger, kickier and in even bolder color.
His palette really roared: canary yellow, fiery fuchsia, shiny purple, fire engine red and the bitterest orange, often in one look. And smartly juxtaposed to the ancient 11th arrondissement garage where the show was staged.
Plus, Julian added some savvy new tailoring, revamping, shortening and rippling opera coats in powerful statements. And cutting his double-breasted blazers with noble volumes.
In effect, Julian managed to mix up formal and casual perfectly, whether a pale gray trench with crystal embroidered top, or silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants.
'I gave myself the freedom to embrace color. So, I wanted prints, bright colors and embroidery; joyful and spontaneous satins; saturated color coats. As bright as possible,' the designer enthused.
'I was really thinking about the Dries Van Noten men's wardrobe and what that represents for me. It's a very complete wardrobe from day to beach to evening. And I asked myself how does something formal feel casual, or how does something casual feel formal,' explained the designer, amid a mob of enthusiastic critics and editors.
Originally trained as a women's wear designer, there was a tad too much pre-show speculation on whether he could cut the mustard in menswear. But in the end, this collection, if anything, was the best he has done for the Antwerp-based house, coming after two women's shows.
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'I wanted to come across in the March women's show – and today too - as generous. Opulence is a very important part of the brand,' he insisted.
Historically, Dries' DNA always blended menswear with a touch of femininity, while its women's wear could be quite masculine. Which was also true in this show, where many lads wore silk scarves tied as sarongs, or floral opera coats that could have tempted an Upper East Side opera lover grand dame.
Plus, 34-year-old Klausner was not afraid to add a little provocation, like his decision to send out a good dozen models in ribbed cotton underwear that finished almost at the knee.
'You know working with male models it was so enjoyable to see these new proportions and silhouettes,' chuckled Julian.
Before his cast suddenly reappeared, to take a class photo, posing four rows deep amid many smiles and cheers. Justly celebrating the most celebrated collection of the European menswear so far.
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