All about Eri, Pat and Muga: Indigenous silks of Assam
Assam, the "land of the Red River and Blue Hills," is the envy of India's textile history. Its native silks, Eri, Pat, and Muga, are more than fabric, but of the state's history, ingenuity, and culture.
Each of these silks has a story to share of sustainability, labour, and close association with nature.
Eri silk
: The peace silk
Image: Wikipedia
Eri silk, often called the 'Ahimsa Silk,' is unique because it is produced without killing the silkworm. The name comes from the Assamese word 'era,' meaning castor, the primary food plant for Eri silkworms. This makes it eco-friendly and aligned with ethical textile practices.
Eri is known to be fine and woolly with great warmth-holding properties and is perfectly suited for shawls, wraps, and winter wear.
Eri cloth is worn traditionally on the Assamese festival of Magh Bihu. The weaving process is deeply tied to village life, with women artisans spinning and weaving in home-based looms. Its durability and ability to blend with dyes also make it a favourite for both traditional and contemporary designs.
Pat silk
: The gorgeous beauty
Image: Wikipedia
The Pat silk is renowned for its pure white or off-white glow and gentleness. Produced from mulberry silkworms, Pat cloth is highly desirable for wedding dresses and traditional Assamese wear like mekhela chador.
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Skilled weaving is required by the weaver, the weavers generally being capable of introducing exquisitely elaborate designs like flowers, birds, and Assamese cultural symbols of heritage.
Pat silk's capacity to cool the wearer in summer and warm him in winter only makes it more lovable. Pat was once worn by royalty as a status symbol in the past. Even now, it is an essential fabric for special occasions where traditional weaving meets discreetly modern tastes.
Muga silk
: The golden heritage
Image: Wikipedia
Muga silk is Assam's pride and is exclusive to the state in the world. Renowned for its natural golden-yellow hue and unparalleled strength, Muga softens and becomes silken with every wash and lasts for generations. Silkworms (Antheraea assamensis) yielding Muga feed on Som and Sualu leaves, and the process is labour-intensive and requires expert hands.
Traditionally, Muga was the exclusive right of Assamese nobility and royalty, and it represented dignity and richness.
Currently, it is still included in the Assamese wedding trousseau as well as ceremonial wear. Muga silk is considered eco-friendly as the production depends on rearing silkworms on natural foliage without chemicals. Its heritage status has also promoted international appreciation for Assamese handloom craftsmanship.
Cultural and economic importance
These silks are not just cloth, they keep in employment thousands of weavers in Assam and add significantly to the rural economy. Handloom production of Eri, Pat, and Muga are traditional occupations transmitted over centuries, with cultural continuity and livelihood security. Beyond economic benefits, these silks help preserve Assamese heritage, traditional weaving techniques, and local motifs.
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