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6 of the best summer festivals to travel to, according to an expert

6 of the best summer festivals to travel to, according to an expert

One of the most famous Midsummer celebrations is found in the central Swedish town of Leksand.
One of the most famous Midsummer celebrations is found in the central Swedish town of Leksand.
One of the most famous Midsummer celebrations is found in the central Swedish town of Leksand.
One of the most famous Midsummer celebrations is found in the central Swedish town of Leksand.
Festivals, when cultures reveals themselves most vividly, are some of the best times to visit a new destination — here are the six best summer festivals to travel to this summer.
6 of the best summer festivals to travel to, according to an expert
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
There's no better time to visit a new place than during a festival. These heightened moments, special points in the calendar, are when a culture reveals itself most vividly: town squares are festooned with flowers and draped in finery, people conceal themselves beneath extravagant costumes and wild-eyed masks, and the air is filled with the sound of music and the delicious smells of festival food.
But beyond just being outwardly captivating, festivals are also fascinating portraits of human behaviour. While writing my book about festivals, Fiesta: A Journey Through Festivity, I travelled from Indonesia to Ingol, Lancashire – and found that, across the world, festivals reflect certain universal patterns. The —sual rules of life are upended: social hierarchies dissolve, inhibitions are shed, and altered states of consciousness are pursued with relish. Whether you're a participant or an observer, the experience of a festival can be inspiring, life-affirming and, sometimes, transcendent. Here are six of the best festivals to visit across the world this summer.
Around 30,000 spectators descend on the town of Leksand to watch locals, dressed in traditional white blouses, colourful dresses and floral wreaths, process from the town church to the Sammilsdal, a natural grassy amphitheatre.
Photograph by Anna Holm, Visit Dlarna
1. Midsommar, Leksand, Sweden
Summer solstice (20/21/22 June)
It may have entered the horror pantheon thanks to the celebrated 2019 movie Midsommar, but there's nothing (too) scary about Scandinavia's real-life summer solstice celebrations, the most famous of which is to be found in the central Swedish town of Leksand.
As many as 30,000 spectators descend on the town to watch locals, dressed in traditional white blouses, colourful dresses and floral wreaths, process from the town church to the Sammilsdal, a natural grassy amphitheatre. Here, they dance around a maypole covered in plants and flowers, singing folk songs which celebrate the warmth and light of the year's longest day. The party continues long into the twilight of the midsummer night, with revellers eating pickled herring and strawberries and drinking aquavit, the potent local liquor.
(6 of the best destinations to celebrate midsummer in Europe.)
Glastonbury's Pyramid Stage sets the scene for unforgettable summer performances.
Anna Barclay
2. Glastonbury Festival, Pilton, England
Last weekend of June
More than just the archetypal summer music festival, Glastonbury reflects many of the strands common to festivity across the world — seasonality, debauchery, connection to nature, music and dance – and the resulting atmosphere is that of a folkloric utopia, all soundtracked by the finest musicians on the planet. A primordial rooting in the earth and connection to the seasonal calendar — common to many of the Glastonbury area's festivals — is fostered by the event's timing close to the summer solstice, and bards, druids and pagans of all stripes can often be found gathered at the festival's very own stone circle — built not in 3000 BCE, but 1992.
The festival's proximity to Glastonbury Tor, meanwhile, infuses the event with a touch of King Arthur mythology. And five miles from the festival site, many more solstice celebrants can be found at this green hill topped with a medieval tower, which is often identified with the mythical Isle of Avalon from Arthurian legend. In the nearby town of Glastonbury itself, meanwhile, celebrants gather at the Chalice Well, a sacred spring held in some legends to hide the Holy Grail.
3. Khareef Festival, Dhofar, Oman
21 June-20 September
Every summer, in the Dhofar region of Oman's less-visited south, the desert blooms. From June to September, the tongues of the southeast monsoon lash the coast around Oman's second city, Salalah, causing waterfalls and rivers to burst into life and seeing this otherwise arid corner of the Arabian Peninsula erupt in a riot of tropical green. Omanis flock from the oppressive heat of the north to refresh themselves in the fine misty rain, swim in natural pools framed by resplendent greenery, and relish the scent of the world's finest frankincense trees in full bloom. The carnival-like Khareef Festival sees three months of music and dance performances, souks selling handicrafts and traditional foods, and hot air balloons soaring in the sky above.
4. Festa of Mnarja, Buskett Gardens, Malta
29 June
The tiny Mediterranean nation of Malta has one of the most jam-packed festival calendars in Europe, with more than one hundred festi – the local celebration of Catholic saints' days — held between March and September. Each has its own character. Rabat hosts a stately affair in March, with regal decorations and a brass-band procession, while Mqabba marks its festa with some of the most rip-roaring fireworks displays imaginable. But the most memorable is arguably Mnarja (or L-Imnarja), held on 29 June to celebrate saints Peter and Paul. Held outside Rabat in the Buskett Gardens woodlands, the event sees locals dressed in medieval ruffs and velvet tunics, displays of fruit and vegetable carving, wandering minstrels playing Maltese folk tunes, and mountains of traditional food, including the national dish, rabbit stew.
5. Abare Festival, Ushitsu, Japan
4-5 July
Travel guides to Japan often emphasise the politeness and gentleness of its people, their cultural aversion to public outbursts and their dedication to exquisite, traditional arts and crafts. All of which makes it somewhat surprising to turn up in the Noto Peninsula town of Ushitsu each July and find it consumed by the chaos and fury of the Abare Festival, a.k.a the 'Fire & Violence Festival'. Huge, beautiful lanterns, painted with mythological scenes and folktales, are painstakingly created throughout the year, only to be ritualistically destroyed by a band of drunk, loincloth-clad men, who smash the decorations against lampposts and pavements before burning them at the town's main shrine. This symbolic riot of rage has its origins in the 17th century, as a way to ward off disease. Before, during and after the main procession, much sake is consumed by participants and spectators alike.
During Phuket's Vegetarian Festival, spirit mediums process through the streets of Phuket Old Town by the thousand with swords, skewers and other sharp objects stuck through their faces at all angles.
Photograph by the Copyright of the Tourism Authority of Thailand
6. Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Phuket Old Town, Thailand
Ninth lunar month (September or October; dates vary)
A vegetarian festival, you might think, sounds pretty wholesome; a celebration of the tasty, health-bestowing properties of a meat-free diet. The island of Phuket, however, clearly didn't get the memo. While this celebration does incorporate much delicious plant-based food, the nine-day Phuket Vegetarian Festival is more explicitly characterised by deafening noise and mind-boggling ritual mutilation, with spirit mediums processing through the streets of Phuket Old Town by the thousand with swords, skewers and other sharp objects stuck through their faces at all angles. Firewalking and climbing ladders of knives are among the other trials which the spirit mediums undertake, all while in a deep trance, to the sound of a chorus of firecrackers. Not an event for the faint of heart.
(Pearls, Peranakan culture and rare rituals: this is Phuket — but not as you know it.)
Daniel Stables is the author of Fiesta: A Journey Through Festivity published by Icon Books (14 August 2025), RRP £20
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A 118-year-old English Manor Hotel on British Columbia's Vancouver Island Just Reopened With 1,500 Antiques and Set Pieces From Your Favorite TV Shows
A 118-year-old English Manor Hotel on British Columbia's Vancouver Island Just Reopened With 1,500 Antiques and Set Pieces From Your Favorite TV Shows

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A 118-year-old English Manor Hotel on British Columbia's Vancouver Island Just Reopened With 1,500 Antiques and Set Pieces From Your Favorite TV Shows

Rosemead's quiet, forest-like setting gives it an English countryside feel, yet it's only a 10-minute drive from downtown Victoria. The owner collected antiques from movie and TV sets, his favorite London hotels, and at least 50 manor estates. Janevca's dining room is anchored by a huge faux tree 'blooming' with cascading pink cherry blossoms; the leaves will change out seasonally. Modern amenities co-exist with heritage—think clawfoot tubs and classic mantle clocks, but also self-flushing heated toilets with high-tech Kohler bidets. The cushy king beds are topped with $23,000 mattresses from 100-year-old luxury Swedish label Duxiana. The magnetism of Rosemead House begins not inside, but at street level. To reach the hilltop hotel in Esquimalt, British Columbia, guests pass through the actual Buckingham Palace gates used on the London set of Netflix's The Crown and climb the tree-lined driveway to a regal porte-cochère and a large manor door. The Edwardian mansion, originally designed as a private home in 1906 by architect Samuel Maclure, has lived many lives. Most recently it was the Old English Inn: cherished by locals who got married or honeymooned there, chastised by a few as the Fawlty Towers of the area, and universally known to be showing its age. In 2015, Lenny Moy, president and founder of real estate development company Aragon Properties, purchased it and the surrounding land for a master-planned community of heritage-inspired condos called Oakwoods, located behind the manor. Turns out, the hotel restoration would become Moy's decade-long, antique-fueled passion project, and it began while visiting one of his daughters in London who was attending fashion school there. 'I started going to auctions, mostly virtually, and buying furniture slowly,' Moy says. 'At first, it was just a few 18th- and 19th-century accent pieces.' Eventually, he'd purchased from more than 50 manor estates, movie set sales, and legendary London hotels The Dorchester and The Savoy. 'I knew I had to buy 130 percent to get to a solid 100 percent.' Crate by carefully packaged crate, a couple thousand treasures crossed the pond, filling an 8,000-square-foot warehouse at least twice over. Today, around 1,500 of these antiques decorate Rosemead House where Moy and interior designer Karen Wichert followed the phrase 'Heritage Meets Discovery' as their north star, blending past with present everywhere. The result is a decadent, fearless, money-is-no-object historical rebirth painted with a maximalist brush. Interior of the hotel lobby. I'm Rosemead's very first guest, staying in the Lancaster Room, which I reach by climbing two sets of staircases, one thrillingly narrow. With maze-like hallways and no elevator, a guide to one's room is essential at first. ('This way, Miss Nanton…') With peekaboo ocean views, a reading nook, and countless antiques—including a tiny vintage Royal Crown Derby China seal paperweight from England that I desperately want to take home to my toddler—the 433-square-foot room is comfy, not stuffy, despite its heirloom touches and ancient bones. At once I'm wrapped up in the step-back-in-time fantasy of it all. That energy hits deepest in the Crown Mezzanine library, just above the lobby. I sink into a coral-hued chesterfield chair and look up at a gargantuan faux 17th-century Rembrandt, which doesn't look fake at all. The red curtains and podiums adjacent, as well as my seat, are all from the original Queen's bedroom set of The Crown. (As Moy tells me later, the painting was also purchased from a set; Kevin Hart's 2024 heist film, Lift , I learn . ) Quickly at home in my new manor life, I explore the manicured grounds—complete with a small amphitheatre that will likely host future music performances—before pulling up a barstool at in-house restaurant Janevca's busy lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Sipping a bright Amalfi Stone Sour mixed with London dry gin and limoncello, a restored stained-glass window to my left catches the golden hour light. It's one of the original manor windows, making it easy to imagine a century's worth of guests sitting right here before me doing just the same. Here, my full review and everything you need to know about Rosemead House. There are 14 rooms in the Manor Collection, located inside the historic building, and another 14 in the Grove Collection, in a new building behind the main house. The latter are slightly more accessibly priced and five are pet-friendly. Long-stay suites with kitchens will open in due course. The most opulent room at Rosemead? The Manor Collection's Dynasty Suite, decorated in a full Chinoiserie theme with a vaulted ceiling, staircase leading up to a second-floor bedroom, and private balcony. 'Each suite is like a real-life museum,' says Moy while touring me through a handful of the 28 rooms, each with its own UK-inspired name. Edwardian writing desks with intricate inlays, gilded-framed mirrors, and reupholstered vintage furnishings live in tandem with patterned William Morris wallpaper on the walls, Ann Sacks basketweave motif tiles on the bathroom floors, and minibars concealed inside sideboards from The Dorchester auction (this way, you don't hear them hum). It's a detailed mash-up of hues, textures, and patterns, but doesn't feel overwhelming. 'We really set out to respect the original design, adding modern elements and layers of color to evolve it,' Moy adds. To that end, each room's unique, sometimes quirky, architecture is taken into account, like the Oxford Loft's sharply slanted ceiling balanced by adjacent bell-shaped chandeliers, or Canterbury Corner's exposed timber trusses complemented by a vintage wooden globe (open it up to find a secret bar inside). The interior of Janevca by Chef Andrea Alridge. Alchemic wood-fired cooking is the culinary core of Janevca Kitchen & Lounge, which opened well before the hotel in fall 2024 (and is a portmanteau of Moy's children's names: Janelle, Evan, Cailee). It's helmed by executive chef Andrea Alridge, who previously cooked at Vancouver's coveted Savio Volpe. Downstairs there are two event spaces as well as a private-dining Granite Room with a rock wall showcasing racks of fine wine in front of it. Moy has plans to grow Rosemead's collection to upward of 6,000 bottles. The bar inside the Janevca lounge. Back at Janevca, chef Alridge's Filipino and Jamaican roots shape the menu and a stainless steel Argentine-style grill burning maple, alder, and applewood is the genesis of most dishes. When I head down to dinner, the fully booked restaurant buzzes while wine director Jacques Lacoste pours me a smooth glass of beaujolais and a gas fireplace 'crackles' nearby. The Hokkaido scallop crudo with calamansi citrus and pops of smoky pyanggang sauce was exceptional, while the signature half-chicken with siu haau sauce and Janevca crisp is one of chef Alridge's personal favorites. For dessert, the Peach Melba is a sweet storytelling triumph, because not only does pastry chef Brian Bradley encase it in a thin layer of marzipan to look just like a peach, complete with leaves and a chocolate-formed pit, he serves it on historic dinnerware purchased from The Savoy, where Peach Melba was invented in the late-1800s. Are they, perhaps, the same plates the first Peach Melbas were eaten off of? The staff cannot confirm nor deny, but as I eat my dessert, I think yes. Rosemead has a two-story Wellness Centre complete with a state-of-the-art gym and Peloton bikes. At Salt & Ivy spa, decorated with Himalayan salt walls and antique mirrors, I opt for an Oceanic Renewal face and body treatment using local Seaflora products. My therapist buffs and moisturizes my tired skin with nutrient-rich seaweed body polish and a firming mask before laying shiver-inducing strands of detoxifying fresh seaweed across my back. It's all harvested in nearby Sooke, known for its high diversity of 500+ seaweed varieties. Rosemead has future plans to offer seaweed-foraging experiences there in its pristine intertidal zone with Seaflora. Off-property, a 10-minute drive away, check into Havn, a WWII-era barge converted into a wellness spa docked in Victoria's Inner Harbour. After checking in, I sip a superfood-based Majik Algae Aloe elixir, turn completely numb from a four-minute cold plunge, then slather myself with a ladle full of exfoliating salt to warm up. For the next three hours I rinse, sauna, hot tub, lounge, and repeat before walking to dinner at Rabbit Rabbit wine bar, where executive chef Billy Nguyen (a good friend of Janevca's chef Alridge) plates excellent French-Asian fare in a room full of vibes and vinyl. If you go, ask for a booth with a Champagne button. Given its more-than-100-year pedigree, the manor house itself is a heritage-designated property, so those suites are only accessible by stairs, but the Mayfair Room in the Grove Collection is ADA-compliant. As for sustainability, the hotel's park-like setting with 100-year-old heritage trees were what first attracted Moy to the land, so it was key to hold on to as many as possible during renovations and the condo development. To that end, Garry Oak meadows were preserved, an on-site nursery was created to transplant trees, and felled heritage trees were repurposed for Janevca's dining room tables, wooden accents in the spa, and more. Reclaimed bricks from the manor's previous retaining walls show up in the driveways and yet more brick was repurposed from a building in Victoria. To get to Rosemead from Vancouver, I recommend the fastest and most scenic route, a 35-minute Helijet flight direct from Vancouver Harbour to Victoria Harbour. It flies you over green Gulf Islands before a stunning, get-your-camera-ready coastal landing near downtown Victoria, from which a car or Uber whisks you to Rosemead in 15 minutes. Alternatively, guests can fly directly into Victoria International Airport or take BC Ferries from Tsawwassen (Vancouver) to Swartz Bay (Victoria). Located in the quiet Saxe Point neighborhood, a stay at Rosemead lends itself to nature walks, not unlike a British country estate. 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Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.

Where to find the perfect gelato in Rome
Where to find the perfect gelato in Rome

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Where to find the perfect gelato in Rome

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). There's never a wrong time for gelato in Rome. But nothing beats the sensation of cooling down with a deliciously fresh scoop on a hot summer day. With hundreds of gelaterie (ice cream parlours) across the Eternal City, the challenge isn't finding gelato, it's finding the best one. But what, exactly, is gelato? This is one of the most common questions people ask when visiting Rome, and while both ice cream and gelato are beloved frozen treats, the difference between the two lies in the ingredients, texture and how they're served. Gelato contains more milk and less cream than ice cream, resulting in a lower fat content, which some people find easier to digest. It's churned at a slower speed, incorporating less air, which gives it a denser, silkier texture. And because gelato is served at a slightly warmer temperature, its flavours come through more vividly, delivering a more intense taste experience. And like ice cream, those flavours are as numerous as the people that create them: from time-honoured classics like zabaglione, pistachio and stracciatella to bold, seasonal creations like peaches and white wine, or wild strawberries and basil. Here are our top choices of gelaterie in Italy's Eternal City. Topping the list is Gelateria Fassi, a true Roman institution that has been serving gelato since 1880. While a few popular gelato spots in the city have leaned into a more touristy feel, Fassi has stayed refreshingly true to its roots. This family-run gelateria in Esquilino, east of the centre, blends a simple, old-fashioned ice cream parlour setting with a forward-thinking array of flavours, drawing a loyal mix of locals and tourists. Apart from the classic cones and cups, there are also indulgences including a Sicilian-style brioche filled with gelato, or one of Fassi's signature creations: the sanpietrino, a bite-sized chocolate-covered semifreddo dessert named after the famous cobblestones that pave most of the city. Cup/cone with two scoops from €1.80 (£1.50). Tucked into one of the Trastevere district's many alleys, this innovative gelateria hasn't even hit its 10-year mark (modern by Roman standards), yet it's already earned a cult-like following among locals and even a top spot in the coveted rankings of the Gambero Rosso food guide. Otaleg (yes, that's 'gelato' spelled backwards) is where tradition meets wild creativity. Its classic flavours including pistachio, hazelnut and chocolate are exceptional, but the real fun lies in the more daring creations. White chocolate laced with mustard, a salty-crunchy version of pistachio, or an unexpected tomato-sausage-chilli concoction from Calabria known as 'nduja. The fruit flavours vary with the seasons, and you'll be able to find things like wild strawberries, loquats and sour cherries. Small cup/cone with one scoop, €2.00 (£1.70). Perfect after an afternoon shopping around the nearby Spanish Steps, Ciampini is located off the charming, pedestrian-only Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina. This family-run bar has roots going all the way back to 1943, and gelato isn't the only thing it serves; the venue offers the complete bar-cafe-restaurant experience and it's one of the best places in the city for people watching. You can grab a cone for a stroll or sit down and savour your gelato while taking in the scene on the piazza, maybe with a spritz cocktail in hand. Ciampini uses high-quality ingredients including organic milk and eggs, and every flavour is rich and carefully crafted. Don't miss the classic cioccolato, or raspberry with Nutella. Small cup/cone with two scoops, €2.50 (£2.10). After a visit to the Colosseum, head to the pretty Monti neighbourhood for some vintage shopping and a gelato at this tiny spot, which is beloved by both locals and tourists. The owners have recently renovated and (slightly) expanded into the next-door property but continue to serve extremely high-quality artisanal gelato year-round. There are both lactose-free and vegan options and the fruit flavours follow the season, which is always a great sign. It's not always available but seek out the vegan Nutella – it will be one of the best things you'll taste while in Rome. Small cup/cone with three scoops, €2.50 (£2.10). With three central locations in Rome, Gelato by Günther started in 2012 with a single shop, where the focus was (as it still is across this boutique franchise) on quality over quantity. Every element that goes into the gelato is meticulously sourced: organic milk from nearby farms, fruit chosen at peak ripeness, and pure spring water drawn from the mountains in northern Italy. This is gelato made with precision and purpose. Among the standout flavours, the 'mugo pine' is an Alpine-inspired scoop that's a must for those looking for something truly unique. Small cup/cone with two scoops, €3.50 (£3). Rome's Testaccio neighbourhood, also known as the meat-packing district, is a working-class area that's always had a strong sense of community, and Brivido has been a local favourite since 1986. This unassuming gelateria quietly keeps alive the art of traditional gelato-making, producing small batches each day with a strict no-additive policy: no artificial colours, sweeteners or preservatives. The menu features a mix of traditional flavours and creative ones associated with regional Italian desserts that bring back childhood memories. For added extravagance, you can opt to dip your gelato in warm melted chocolate. Small cup/cone with two scoops, €2.50 (£2.10). Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62, 00153 Roma RM To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

Why Vitoria-Gasteiz is better for Basque pintxos than San Sebastian
Why Vitoria-Gasteiz is better for Basque pintxos than San Sebastian

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Why Vitoria-Gasteiz is better for Basque pintxos than San Sebastian

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Sitting at the smart, horseshoe bar of El Toloño, veteran head chef Josu Armiño is letting me into a secret. 'We've got something that I think other places don't have, and that's the simplicity of the way we use ingredients,' he says, sporting pristine chef's whites and a slightly mischievous smile. 'For me, the most important thing is the quality of the produce we have here.' In the Basque capital of Vitoria-Gasteiz, El Toloño is one of the most locally revered pintxos bars — and for good reason. 'It's not about creating things with foams and all that,' Josu goes on to explain. 'It's about simplicity and building on the traditions of our grandparents' cooking,' he says. 'We add a touch of glamour and a bit more warmth and personality, but it's always on a base of traditional cooking. And I think that's the secret of what we do here in Vitoria and in the Basque country.' Sitting under a neoclassical, 19th-century colonnade on the edge of Vitoria's pedestrianised main square, Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, award-winning El Toloño is a key stop for locals out for a poteo — the pintxos equivalent of a pub crawl. It's a Basque tradition I'm here to try for myself. On El Toloño's bar counter, each delicate pintxo certainly looks like it'll live up to Josu's description. I decide to start with the gilda. Arguably the most famous of all Basque pintxos, it's made up of a Cantabrian anchovy skewered onto a cocktail stick between a plump, green manzanilla olive and a pickled green guindilla pepper. The gilda was named after Rita Hayworth's character in the eponymous 1946 film noir, which, at the time of its release, was considered so risque that it was banned by Spain's Francoist regime. Conceived as a homage to her punchy character, the gilda's combination of slightly bitter, fruity olive, salty anchovy and spicy guindilla is anything but subtle. It's the perfect opener to awaken my palate — especially when paired with a glass of txakoli, the Basque Country's signature dry yet refreshingly fruity white wine. Josu pours it from a great height with a theatrical flourish, as is tradition. By the time I've finished, the bar, with its elegant mix of slate-toned walls and black-and-white floor tiles, has filled up with middle-aged men in puffer jackets and smartly dressed businesswomen. Their lively chatter mingles with the clanking of beer glasses and coffee cups. Despite its popularity, there's still nowhere near the amount of elbow jostling you'll find in many bars in nearby San Sebastián or even Bilbao, both an hour's drive north to the coast. While glamorous San Sebastián may have risen to stardom thanks to its pintxos and fine dining culture, not to mention its superb beachside location, those in the know will tell you that Vitoria is the secret jewel in the Basque Country's culinary crown. Its inland location means that it benefits from both easy access to seafood from the Bay of Biscay and exceptional beef, vegetables and fruit from the countryside. It's been the Basque capital since 1980, when many of Spain's regional boundaries were drawn up in the aftermath of the Franco dictatorship. Yet its tourism profile has suffered from the fact that it has neither a coastal location nor international airport. In the spirit of the poteo, I take a short walk from El Toloño past the belle époque townhouses and tram tracks that flow down Vitoria's tree-lined avenues. My next stop is PerretxiCo, another bar that's won numerous awards in the Basque Country's pintxos competitions. These annual events see bars vie with one another in an effort to create the tastiest and most innovative pintxos. One previous winner I'm intrigued to try is PerretxiCo's La Vacuna, which translates as 'the vaccine'. It's a beef meatball of sorts, encased in a shell of crisp batter and topped with flying-fish roe. The dish arrives at my table alongside a small plastic syringe filled with a beefy jus, which I'm instructed to inject into the meatball. I do as I'm told, and find the intense, almost Bovril-like gravy adds a deliciously comforting warmth to the mix of crispy outer coating and finely textured minced meat. Taking a quick break from the kitchen in his black chef's apron, PerretxiCo's head chef Josean Merino tells me that La Vacuna was invented during the pandemic, 'to add a touch of humour'. It's also about balance. Josean says: 'I always say that a pintxo is one of the most complicated dishes to prepare, because you have to concentrate everything into one or two bites and get an almost surgical balance between the textures and flavours.' As the sound of church bells marks the hour, I leave PerretxiCo to head into the steep, narrow, medieval streets of Vitoria's Old Quarter, high on a hilltop. Not far from the magnificent, 13th-century gothic cathedral and elegant, neoclassical palacios and plazas, I find El Portalón, one of the city's most famous restaurants. Set in a large, half-timbered house that was once a 15th-century staging post and inn, El Portalón also offers its own prize-winning pintxos. One of its signature dishes is the octopus carpaccio — tender slices of octopus lightly dusted with sweet paprika, served with dried red peppers on a small piece of rustic, home-baked farmhouse bread. I put in my order and pull up a chair in the cobbled entrance yard, originally used as the building's stables. 'Going out to eat is a big part of life here in Vitoria,' says El Portalón's manager and head chef Alberto Ortiz de Zárate, a youthful looking 50-year-old who comes to say hello. He first joined his father as a commis chef in El Portalón's kitchen some 18 years ago. 'People appreciate good food and don't mind paying a little extra for it, so restaurants can spend more on the best produce, resulting in a higher-quality range of dishes,' he says, trying to put his finger on what makes Vitoria's food scene — and that of the broader Basque Country — so special. 'It's a cultural act — spending time at the table with friends and family, and enjoying it. It's not just about the food. It's about being with the people you care about — spending less time on your mobile phone and more time appreciating life.' Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

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