'Revival Stories' at Swadesh reimagines Paithani like never before

New Indian Express

2 days ago

Once they decided Paithani was their next chapter, the first step was immersion. The team at Swadesh travelled to Paithan and Aurangabad, home to this legendary weave, and spent months working closely with master weavers and textile historians. The process involved studying heirloom sarees, some over 150 years old, stored in family trunks and private collections. They traced motifs, deciphered weaving techniques that had nearly vanished, and engaged in patient dialogue with artisans whose knowledge is often passed down orally over generations.
One of the most extraordinary moments in this journey came through their collaboration with renowned textile revivalist, Ajay Bhoj. A custodian of generational wisdom, Ajay opened the doors to a rare and remarkable archive, an heirloom collection of sarees and dupattas dating back nearly 200 years, handcrafted by his forefathers for the queens of royal families.
Among these treasures was a Paithani saree, its colours still vivid, its zari untouched by time. The craftsmanship was breathtaking with floral vines in full bloom, parrots with intricate plumage, and motifs rendered with a finesse rarely seen today. Ajay recounted how his great-grandfather had woven the piece for a Maratha queen, using techniques that are now almost lost to time.