
James Beard-Nominated Vegan Restaurant Is Closing in Manhattan
Cadence, the creative soul food spot known for its Southern vegan twists, is closing down in the East Village. An Instagram announcement this week says the decision was made related to a 'significant rent increase.' The lease for the business — a part of Overthrow Hospitality — isn't up for a couple of months, though, and so the restaurant will remain until the end of the summer.
'Cadence was built to honor the richness of Black culinary tradition and the beauty of plant-based Southern cooking. What we created here, with our community, has meant more than words can capture,' the post states.
Like all of the hospitality projects in the Overthrow umbrella, Cadence was vegan. It first opened in 2021 under chef Shenarri Freeman, highlighting the intersection of Black foodways and plant-based cooking. Around the time of a positive New York Times review that year, the restaurant said it would be taking over the additional neighboring storefront to meet demand.
Freeman received two James Beard nominations for the restaurant. And, in 2021, Eater New York awarded it the best solo dining experience of the year, for its bar seating with dishes like its deep-fried lasagna.
In 2022, Eater LA reported that Overthrow was working to bring another of its restaurants, Avant Garden, to California. A year later Freeman went on to open Ubuntu, a West African restaurant in Los Angeles that has been listed as temporarily closed for renovations since the summer of 2024.
Today, Cadence is overseen by chef Haley Duren, who will continue to host events in the East Village space through the lease's duration. And, from the sounds of the post, Duren already has a new restaurant gig.
Over the past six years and counting, in particular, DeRossi has increasingly gotten a reputation for opening and closing concepts in quick succession, often rebranding the spaces. The latest has been storefront flips for Amor y Amargo, Soda Club, and Al-Andalus. It also applied to the opening of Cadence, which itself replaced another restaurant that didn't work out, a short-lived Indian spot called Night Music, which first debuted from his team in 2019.
During the pandemic, a wave of businesses flipped to meatless menus or opened offshoots devoted to vegan cuisine to meet (no pun intended!) the moment. But that momentum has slowed down, and over the last year, many such spots have shuttered, like Modern Love in Williamsburg, or in the case of the Lower East Side Chinese American fast-casual spot, Fat Choy, moved to New Jersey. In 2023, Eater reported that 'when it comes to vegan dining, New Yorkers' appetites have changed,' eulogizing some of the lost vegan spots of an earlier era.
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