Pre‘serving' a Deccan legacy with nostalgic delicacy
KOLLAM: In a scenic lane in Fort Kochi, the aroma of cardamom and boiling milk hangs heavy. Its origin: The kitchen of Mumtaaz M, where she carefully rolls tiny beads of refined, kneaded flour with her fingers, shaping them into diamonds, while coconut milk simmers on the stove.
The 65-year-old is preparing Suthiriya ka Kheer, a traditional dessert from the Deccan region, so named after the diamond shapes that are called Suthiriya.
For Mumtaaz and other members of the Urdu-speaking Deccani Muslim community in Kerala, preparing – and savouring – the kheer is a way to stay connected to their roots. As Kerala's culinary scene evolves with contemporary tastes, Suthiriya Ka Kheer remains a nostalgic symbol of tradition for Kerala's Deccani Muslims, keeping alive stories of migration, memory and community.
Despite its rich flavour and heritage, the dish has remained largely confined within the community. Now, its members are taking to social media to share the recipe, hoping to introduce it to a wider audience. Recently, Mumtaaz recorded and shared on social media a video demonstrating the dish's preparation, detailing its ingredients and cooking process.
'Our food culture has changed a lot. To the young, it is an unfamiliar dish. They must have heard about it, but they won't crave it like we did in our childhood,' says Mumtaaz.
'Its taste and fragrance should reach far & wide'
Mumtaaz says: 'Suthiriya Ka Kheer holds our family roots, our migration history, our struggles and so much more. Its fragrance while cooking and lasting taste need more appreciation. So, it's our duty to preserve it. In my family, I make it regularly, and I believe they all love it.'
Seema Najim, another Deccani Muslim from Kochi, is also working to popularise the dish among the new generation.
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