I visited an off-grid cabin near Hereford with my husband to rekindle the art of conversation

Independent

7 days ago

My husband and I used to be great conversationalists, but after having our daughter three and a half years ago, our chat is almost exclusively schedule based. 'What are your movements this week?' has become our most-used phrase, along with 'Your turn to do the nursery pick up tonight?' And while we're both very much aware that this is, like our toddler's tantrums, 'just a phase', we used to love nothing more than a rambling chat that travelled here, there and everywhere, and I miss that about us.
And we're not alone. Some studies suggest that 80 to 90 per cent of new mothers feel lonely after giving birth, with many spending hours of the day disconnected from other adults. Unfortunately, for some, that disconnect continues as their babies grow and they adapt to their new normal. I certainly found it difficult to go from babbling baby talk (or worse, silence) to thrilling conversation the minute my husband returned from work, and it's something I feel that I've struggled with ever since; I seem to only have space in my mind these days for discussions about timetables. Which is hardly the key to an enriching tête-à-tête.
With this in mind, and with Father's Day fast approaching, in June I began searching for off-grid escapes in the UK and landed on the Kip Hideaways website, gazing longingly at a design-led, eco treehouse in a forest just outside of Hereford. Set in splendid isolation on a private 800-acre estate, the solar-powered two-bed property boasted a decking area with an outdoor hot tub, an alfresco shower, a kitchen and, crucially for me, no wifi.
The Kip website features stylish, under-the-radar self-catering accommodation, typically designed to a high standard, and quite often with eco credentials. Along with gorgeous, considered interiors designed by the owner, Harriet Churchwood and her husband, carpenter and musician Matt Pescod, in collaboration with Sophie Rowell of Côte de Folk, The Quist, as the treehouse was named, ticked all the boxes for an off-grid stay that – I hoped – would help my husband and me to reconnect.
And so it was that on a Friday after work, we loaded ourselves and our daughter into a hire car, delivered to us in style by its owner from Turo, a car-sharing service that goes the extra mile to deliver (for an additional fee) the car to your door. Our vehicle arrived stocked with snacks, drinks and a toddler car seat.
It took us just under four hours to reach the town of Hereford, a creative city set on the banks of the River Wye just 16 miles from the Welsh border. The Quist was 20 minutes from the city centre, and we arrived after dark, making the big reveal of our setting deep within the forest even more special the next morning.
The Quist's floor-to-ceiling windows, along with other picture windows throughout the cabin, frame ancient oaks and firs and views of the Malverns. Being a travel editor's daughter, my little one is fortunate enough to visit some incredible hotels and destinations, and even she couldn't contain her excitement when we drew back the linen curtains of the floor-to-ceiling sliding doors that opened out onto the decking early the next morning. The three of us sat on the squishy Arlo & Jacob sofa with our coffees and warm milk, wrapped in wool throws from Toast, and watched as the forest around us came to life.
Butterflies, squirrels, hawfinch and even – we thought – a white-tailed eagle, native to the area, swooped into view as dappled sunshine bathed the valley in a golden glow, and not once did my husband or I consider reaching for our phones to capture the moment or check up on Instagram.
Herefordshire is a dream destination for outdoor adventure lovers. There are hikes in the Black Mountains and Brecon Beacons on the doorstep, the River Wye, with opportunities to canoe, paddleboard or kayak to tourist spots such as the village of Symonds Yat, and rock climbing too. Bookish Hay-on-Wye, with its 20 bookshops, famous annual literary festival and independent cafés, is just a 15-minute drive from The Quist, and yet we found ourselves reluctant to leave the comfort of the cabin that weekend.
When we did venture out, it was to go for a stomp around the forest, picking our way through the tall grasses, spotting fairy-like woolly aphids and bees dancing amongst the wildflowers. A carved ash staircase leads away from The Quist and is one access point on foot. The other is a rambling track, which you can drive along to park closer to the cabin. A wheelbarrow is supplied to help guests cart their belongings back and forth through the trees, one of many thoughtful touches at the property, along with children's toys, books, local area maps and suggestions from the owners for nearby activities.
One afternoon, we ventured out to the wild swimming spot Bredwardine, where, had the water not been so high, we could have taken a dip in the River Wye. A stop for homemade ice cream at the family-run Oakchurch farm shop and to pick up supplies for dinner made up for the lack of a swim. And after that, it was back to The Quist to pore over owner Harriet's collection of interior design books while my daughter and husband took a dip in the just-warmed hot tub.
That first evening, after cooking dinner in the neat, Americana-inspired kitchenette with its gingham curtain and salvaged ceramic salting sink, we put our daughter to bed and my husband and I put a record on the player, and I ran a bath in the enormous Lusso Stone tub perched in front of a forest-framing picture window. My husband lit a fire in the ethanol burner. And for the first time in three and a half years, while a canopy of stars dazzled above our heads, we talked.
Emilee Tombs was a guest of Kip and Turo.
How to visit
From London, the drive takes between 2 hours 55 minutes and 3 hours 40 minutes. Hereford Train Station is six miles away or a 25-minute drive. Direct and one-stop train services run regularly from London Paddington, London Euston, Manchester, Cardiff, Bristol and Birmingham.
Where to stay
The Quist sleeps up to four in two rooms. Toddler cots are available on request. The setting is rural, and there are steps up to the property, along with a ladder to reach one of the bedrooms and as such, the property is not suitable for those with mobility issues.