Seven highlights of Dubai beyond the glitzy skyscrapers
4 The Spice Souk
The spice, gold and textile souks in Deira are the heart and soul of Old Dubai. Swamped with vendors selling everything from 'crystal menthol' to masala tea, this buzzy pocket is an absolute must for tea and herb junkies. Make a beeline for Mr Ali's store Rise, where he proudly sells saffron from his third-generation farm in Iran. (Don't let border control stop you from stocking up: dried herbs are allowed back in Australia as long as they're commercially packaged and declared).
5 The Majlis Gallery
Among the labyrinthine streets in Al Fahidi District is one of the city's most prominent fine-art spaces, the Majlis Gallery. It displays work by artists from all over the region in a variety of mediums such as paintings, sculptures, glasswork and photography, and often hosts international artists-in-residence. Even if you don't plan on shipping home a piece, the gift shop has abundant objets d'art that could easily slip into a suitcase. See themajlisgallery.com
6 Out of the frying pan
Led by long-time locals and sisters Arva and Farida Ahmed, walking food tour company Frying Pan Adventures is the unofficial authority on authentic dining in the emirate. Their longest-running tour 'Middle Eastern Food Tour Pilgrimage' explores Deira, the area where the women grew up and still live. This almost four-hour moveable feast features everything from Palestinian falafels to Iraqi fare and Arabic baklava. See fryingpanadventures.com
7 The hotel few know about
Inexpensive XVA Art Hotel (rooms from AED450/$190) is tucked down a narrow alleyway in Al Fahidi District and is one of Dubai's best kept secrets. The boutique hotel occupies a heritage-listed, 100-year-old house and its 15 rooms are scattered around three courtyards, each with a different design. It's the only hotel within the area and doubles as an art gallery, with the onsite shop providing a tailoring service and selling souvenirs such as camel milk soap and jewellery. See xvahotel.com/rooms/
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