Luxury Fatigue Fuels an Indie Bag Boom

Business of Fashion

29-04-2025

When Savette launched in 2021 with a small top handle bag it called the Symmetry 19, its cost — $1,750 — put it in the same realm as similarly sized offerings from the likes of Gucci and Celine.
By that measure, the Symmetry 19 is practically a bargain these days. The average luxury bag's price has risen 52 percent since 2019, according to HSBC. The cost of Savette's bag has inched up, to $2,050. Over the same period, Gucci's Jackie medium bag, for example, went from $2,600 to $3,800.
Price is a big reason, though not the only one, that Savette and a clutch of other independent bag brands are experiencing a surge in popularity and even coveted 'it' status once reserved for big French and Italian luxury labels. Marina Raphael, Hunting Season, Liffner and others charge anywhere from $500 to $2500 for their bags — often pricier than big 'accessible' luxury brands like Coach or Michael Kors, but now well below what the top European luxury names charge.
Against a shaky economic backdrop and with US tariffs threatening to drive up prices for many goods, bags included, value is a more potent concern than ever for shoppers. The indie brands also lack the baggage of big luxury, which is fighting a perception that its products are too ubiquitous – and perhaps, too shoddily made – to justify the sharply higher cost. Luxury price hikes have turned off many consumers. (BoF Team )
Smaller brands can have an easier time convincing shoppers they're getting enough bang for their buck, and making a personalised style statement.
'There's been a shift in priorities about what it makes sense to spend money on … [consumers want] to be a little bit more unique and show off their personality and individuality,' said Beth Goldstein, bag and footwear analyst at market research firm Circana.
Even brands operating at luxury price points are adopting versions of this argument: Métier sells its Birkin-esque Private Eye bag for $4,550, which founder Melissa Morris describes as fair when you think of it as 'Hermès quality at a Celine price point.'
'Traditional luxury has leaned on scarcity and prestige, but consumers are not seeing that as aspirational anymore, they're seeing it as gatekeeping,' said Meaghan Mahoney Dusil, founder of the bag-focussed website PurseBlog. 'That's where this window for more approachable and still special alternatives comes in.' Fashion and Function
Before embarking off on their own, many indie bag designers cut their teeth at established brands, often with a history of catering to aspirational consumers. Before launching Savette in 2020, Amy Zurek worked at Coach in between stints at The Row and Khaite. Esha Soni, who debuted her eponymous brand in 2019, spent nearly a decade as the design director for accessories at Michael Kors. Métier's Morris worked at Armani and Helmut Lang.
In their own ventures, they've taken lessons from those experiences, particularly around craftsmanship and materials. But they're also able to weave in their own knowledge of what women want out of a bag and how they use them in their everyday life. Morris said that Métier's production descriptions always include what size laptop a bag can hold (a common question regarding Birkins on bag forums, though not one Hermés answers on its own website). Marina Raphael wanted to price her bags low enough that customers would be comfortable bringing them 'to the club,' without worrying too much about getting them dirty.
These brands also promise something new. While classics like Chanel's classic flap and Louis Vuitton's Neverfull tote remain popular year after year, many of the most popular bags in recent years have come from outside the biggest brands, including The Row's Margaux tote and Toteme's T-Lock.
That's appealing at a time when it can feel that creativity is lacking from the big names. 'Everyone has the same design, the same concept and it's very logo heavy,' said Hanushka Toni, the founder and CEO of luxury resale platform Sellier, of bags from big luxury brands. 'There's not much distinction apart from the name of the brand.'
The same dynamic is at play with smaller indie brands, which are typically logo-free and let design take centre stage.
'It was always about creating that blank canvas where it's more about you than about your bag,' said Paulina Liffner von Sydow, the founder of Liffner, whose bags range from $375 to $795. From the beginning, she was intentional about making sure her bags didn't become 'a status symbol.'
There's also an appeal in the price point, which was the impetus behind the launch of many of these brands. Liffner von Sydow wanted to create something for a customer that didn't want to blow an entire paycheck on a bag.
Even for the independent bag designers whose prices are more comparable to big luxury — besides Métier, Esha Soni's bags go up to $3,200 — for a consumer that's prioritising uniqueness and quality, it can feel more worth it.
'They don't want something where you walk around and see hundreds of them,' said Raphael. 'They want to go out with their friends and have them ask 'Oh, where did you get this bag? Where did you discover this brand?'' Staying Small
Current trends may be in indie designers' favour, but there are big names with expansive marketing budgets at every price point. A US court even blocked a merger of Coach owner Tapestry and Michael Kors parent Capri last year after a judge ruled that it would unfairly consolidate the accessible luxury bag market.
As such, that means that smaller brands must be creative in getting their name out there. An ad from Marina Raphael made with the help of AI (Courtesy Marina Raphael)
Raphael said that her brand leans heavily on using tech like AI to help create more engaging imagery for social media. Storytelling also plays a big role, particularly in explaining the reasoning behind the price point. Clare Vivier, the founder of the brand Clare V., whose mostly under $1000 bags represent 80 percent of its sales, said that she uses social media to take shoppers along with her as she visits the factories the brand works with in Los Angeles, or travels to source materials. That sort of behind-the-scenes showcase to spotlight quality and how something is made is increasingly important, especially for those whose costs can run a bit higher.
'The customer is really educated and very savvy. She knows quality and value, I've seen that firsthand,' said Soni. She recently entered Bergdorf Goodman to give more people the chance to see her bags up close. 'When people touch and feel my bags, they know that it's worth what it is.'
Métier, too, has operated brick-and-mortar retail in London since its earliest days; Morris said that she always wanted customers to have a space to experience her bags in person.
For many, however, word of mouth growth has been the most powerful tool. Liffner and Savette, for instance, have both become an influencer favourites. The personal connection can be a differentiating factor, particularly as conglomerate-owned brands feel more corporate than ever.
'Much more than any time in the past 17 years that I've had this company, consumers are looking for a brand that aligns with their values,' said Vivier. She said that being vocal in her support of reproductive and immigrant rights, as well as gun control, has helped bring in new customers. 'They're simply not purchasing from brands that they don't think aligns with.'