What makes Antarctica a Heaven at the end of the Earth?
The next day, we boarded a business-class flight with Antarctic Airways bound for King George Island: just two hours long, though the view below suggested a far rougher alternative. As we soared above the choppy seas, cruise ships below bobbed wildly, their passengers doubtless wishing they had chosen the sky route.
As our 'penguin plane' began its descent, the first glimpse of Antarctica was nothing short of cinematic. Sunlight glinted off monumental icebergs beneath a piercingly clear blue sky. Mountains stood swathed in snow, overseeing a ragged, ice-bitten coastline. Having grown up on the stories of heroic (and sometimes tragic) explorers such as Scott of the Antarctic, I found it hard not to be moved.
The word 'Arctic' is rooted in the Greek arktos , meaning bear—a neat mnemonic, as the Arctic is home to polar bears while Antarctica is not. Yet the southern pole holds its own distinctions: it spans 8% of the Earth's land mass, shelters 26 quadrillion tonnes of ice, contains 70% of the planet's fresh water, and sees record temperatures plummet to -93°C, with gales reaching speeds of 320 km/h. And of course, it's the realm of penguins.
It is the coldest, highest, driest and windiest continent on Earth, so it's little wonder that barely a sliver of humanity has ever set foot there. From the fur traders and whalers of the 19th century to the fortunate few of today, fewer than a million souls have traversed this otherworldly expanse.
King George Island is home to Antarctica's largest settlement, a small 'metropolis' of 150 inhabitants. For a continent nearly twice the size of Australia, it's a sobering reminder of just how remote we truly are. This icy outpost also hosts a band of charmingly mischievous, slightly aromatic, endearingly clumsy penguins—nature's most entertaining welcoming committee. They're the first to greet us as we step off the plane onto the waiting Zodiac, en route to the Silver Endeavour, our sun-drenched floating haven for the days ahead.
Read more: Shy escapes: 9 quiet destinations for introverts who love to travel
With capacity for just 160 guests and a dedicated crew of 200, the Silver Endeavour is a ship purpose-built for the poles—and indisputably the most luxurious of its kind afloat. That much was clear the moment Terrence, our impeccably mannered Filipino butler, whisked us to our suite on the eighth floor. Spacious enough to rival any city hotel, it came with an added flourish: humpback whales gliding past just beyond the private veranda.
The suite itself was all understated opulence—cool marble in the bathroom, an elegant dining area, a plush sitting room, and a king-sized bed facing sweeping views through floor-to-ceiling windows. A fridge brimming with champagne and fine vintages completed the picture, all courtesy of Silversea's generous all-inclusive approach.
Above Silversea Cruises' Silver Endeavour, purpose-built for polar voyages
Onboard, a stellar expedition team awaited—leading scientists and researchers in disciplines as diverse as marine biology and glaciology. Each briefing was delivered with precision: maintain a respectful five-metre distance from wildlife, leave absolutely no trace, and follow strict disinfection protocols at every embarkation and return.
Captain Kai Ukkonen, a genial Finn with decades of polar experience, welcomed us warmly. Then came a rousing declaration from Expedition Leader Jamie Watt: 'The adventure begins here, at the end of the world. Awaken your inner penguin and bring the Discovery films to life.'
And he was right. What followed over the next six days was, quite simply, the most extraordinary voyage of our lives.
Read more: The oldest restaurants in Asia: Where every meal is a taste of living history
Within just 20 minutes of setting sail for Charlotte Bay, we were graced by two enormous humpback whales, each as heavy as five adult African elephants, surfacing just metres from our balcony. Their breath—a deep whoosh like a great leather bellows—echoed through the icy silence. It was a moment so mesmerising, so pure, it brought out the wide-eyed child in us all. Happily, their numbers in the Southern Ocean have rebounded to 110,000, more than before the onset of commercial whaling.
Above A humpback whale makes a surprise appearance
Each day began with a Zodiac cruise. After donning our gear, we would stop by the boot room. Silversea thoughtfully provides heated air vents to dry and warm footwear between outings.
One morning took us to within 20 metres of a pod of humpbacks; another saw us meet the famously social chinstrap, gentoo and Adélie penguins.
On the craggy shoreline of an abandoned Argentine research station, flanked by sheer cliffs, every surface was liberally coated in guano. But the scent was soon eclipsed by the absurd joy of penguin antics: slipping, tumbling, waddling along their icy 'highways', jostling each other and flinging themselves into icy puddles. They are, in every way, comedy in feathers.
Above The Silver Endeavour's cosy interiors offer the comforts of a luxury resort, even at the ends of the Earth
On other days, our Zodiac drifted through vast, glacial fjords in near-total silence—disturbed only by the eerie crack of ice fracturing off ancient glaciers. These thunderous ruptures, sudden and theatrical, occasionally sent small tsunami-like waves our way, leaving us both exhilarated and on edge, glancing nervously for signs of a 40-tonne humpback surfacing nearby.
Our first steps on the Antarctic continent took place at Neko Harbour, a pristine amphitheatre of ice, home to hundreds of gentoo penguin pairs nestled into snow. We climbed gently uphill, passing Weddell seals snoozing in the cold, while giant storm petrels and polar skuas circled above. The latter are formidable hunters, and the Antarctic cycle of survival revealed its harshest face when we watched two skuas snatch a penguin egg. The distressed cry of the mother still echoes—a visceral reminder of nature's rawest realities.
Above Stunning views from the Silver Endeavour
In the days that followed, we met titanic elephant seals, some weighing up to four tonnes, lounging on ice floes before inelegantly flopping into the sea. More ominous were the killer whales—sleek, black, and hunting in disciplined pods like silent submarines. One passenger managed to capture a shocking moment on camera: a seal hurled metres into the air by these apex predators.
Thankfully, the surrounding waters are meticulously tested to ensure they're safe before a few fearless guests attempt the infamous 'polar plunge'—a headfirst dive into the icy deep, secured by rope just in case nerves get the better of them mid-swim.
Above Explore the icy waters of Antarctica
After each invigorating outing, the ship awaited like an old friend. A martini or caipirinha in hand, we prepared for dinner at one of the ship's three impeccable restaurants. The cuisine was consistently sublime. A bowl of cacio e pepe, for instance, rivalled anything I'd sampled in Rome just weeks before. No mean feat at the edge of the Earth.
The most transcendent moments often involved the icebergs: colossal ones the size of football pitches drifted past like frozen cathedrals, while smaller bergs, floating serenely in luminous aquamarine pools, provided peaceful perches for weary penguins.
On our penultimate morning, we awoke to what could easily be mistaken for a digitally rendered dreamscape: the entire Antarctic panorama mirrored in a motionless sea. Once again, Antarctica had reminded us of her greatest gift—reflections so pure they border on the surreal.
Article published from the original feature in Tatler Vietnam, March 2025 issue
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The next day, we boarded a business-class flight with Antarctic Airways bound for King George Island: just two hours long, though the view below suggested a far rougher alternative. As we soared above the choppy seas, cruise ships below bobbed wildly, their passengers doubtless wishing they had chosen the sky route. As our 'penguin plane' began its descent, the first glimpse of Antarctica was nothing short of cinematic. Sunlight glinted off monumental icebergs beneath a piercingly clear blue sky. Mountains stood swathed in snow, overseeing a ragged, ice-bitten coastline. Having grown up on the stories of heroic (and sometimes tragic) explorers such as Scott of the Antarctic, I found it hard not to be moved. The word 'Arctic' is rooted in the Greek arktos , meaning bear—a neat mnemonic, as the Arctic is home to polar bears while Antarctica is not. Yet the southern pole holds its own distinctions: it spans 8% of the Earth's land mass, shelters 26 quadrillion tonnes of ice, contains 70% of the planet's fresh water, and sees record temperatures plummet to -93°C, with gales reaching speeds of 320 km/h. And of course, it's the realm of penguins. It is the coldest, highest, driest and windiest continent on Earth, so it's little wonder that barely a sliver of humanity has ever set foot there. From the fur traders and whalers of the 19th century to the fortunate few of today, fewer than a million souls have traversed this otherworldly expanse. King George Island is home to Antarctica's largest settlement, a small 'metropolis' of 150 inhabitants. For a continent nearly twice the size of Australia, it's a sobering reminder of just how remote we truly are. This icy outpost also hosts a band of charmingly mischievous, slightly aromatic, endearingly clumsy penguins—nature's most entertaining welcoming committee. They're the first to greet us as we step off the plane onto the waiting Zodiac, en route to the Silver Endeavour, our sun-drenched floating haven for the days ahead. Read more: Shy escapes: 9 quiet destinations for introverts who love to travel With capacity for just 160 guests and a dedicated crew of 200, the Silver Endeavour is a ship purpose-built for the poles—and indisputably the most luxurious of its kind afloat. That much was clear the moment Terrence, our impeccably mannered Filipino butler, whisked us to our suite on the eighth floor. Spacious enough to rival any city hotel, it came with an added flourish: humpback whales gliding past just beyond the private veranda. The suite itself was all understated opulence—cool marble in the bathroom, an elegant dining area, a plush sitting room, and a king-sized bed facing sweeping views through floor-to-ceiling windows. A fridge brimming with champagne and fine vintages completed the picture, all courtesy of Silversea's generous all-inclusive approach. Above Silversea Cruises' Silver Endeavour, purpose-built for polar voyages Onboard, a stellar expedition team awaited—leading scientists and researchers in disciplines as diverse as marine biology and glaciology. Each briefing was delivered with precision: maintain a respectful five-metre distance from wildlife, leave absolutely no trace, and follow strict disinfection protocols at every embarkation and return. Captain Kai Ukkonen, a genial Finn with decades of polar experience, welcomed us warmly. Then came a rousing declaration from Expedition Leader Jamie Watt: 'The adventure begins here, at the end of the world. Awaken your inner penguin and bring the Discovery films to life.' And he was right. What followed over the next six days was, quite simply, the most extraordinary voyage of our lives. Read more: The oldest restaurants in Asia: Where every meal is a taste of living history Within just 20 minutes of setting sail for Charlotte Bay, we were graced by two enormous humpback whales, each as heavy as five adult African elephants, surfacing just metres from our balcony. Their breath—a deep whoosh like a great leather bellows—echoed through the icy silence. It was a moment so mesmerising, so pure, it brought out the wide-eyed child in us all. Happily, their numbers in the Southern Ocean have rebounded to 110,000, more than before the onset of commercial whaling. Above A humpback whale makes a surprise appearance Each day began with a Zodiac cruise. After donning our gear, we would stop by the boot room. Silversea thoughtfully provides heated air vents to dry and warm footwear between outings. One morning took us to within 20 metres of a pod of humpbacks; another saw us meet the famously social chinstrap, gentoo and Adélie penguins. On the craggy shoreline of an abandoned Argentine research station, flanked by sheer cliffs, every surface was liberally coated in guano. But the scent was soon eclipsed by the absurd joy of penguin antics: slipping, tumbling, waddling along their icy 'highways', jostling each other and flinging themselves into icy puddles. They are, in every way, comedy in feathers. Above The Silver Endeavour's cosy interiors offer the comforts of a luxury resort, even at the ends of the Earth On other days, our Zodiac drifted through vast, glacial fjords in near-total silence—disturbed only by the eerie crack of ice fracturing off ancient glaciers. These thunderous ruptures, sudden and theatrical, occasionally sent small tsunami-like waves our way, leaving us both exhilarated and on edge, glancing nervously for signs of a 40-tonne humpback surfacing nearby. Our first steps on the Antarctic continent took place at Neko Harbour, a pristine amphitheatre of ice, home to hundreds of gentoo penguin pairs nestled into snow. We climbed gently uphill, passing Weddell seals snoozing in the cold, while giant storm petrels and polar skuas circled above. The latter are formidable hunters, and the Antarctic cycle of survival revealed its harshest face when we watched two skuas snatch a penguin egg. The distressed cry of the mother still echoes—a visceral reminder of nature's rawest realities. Above Stunning views from the Silver Endeavour In the days that followed, we met titanic elephant seals, some weighing up to four tonnes, lounging on ice floes before inelegantly flopping into the sea. More ominous were the killer whales—sleek, black, and hunting in disciplined pods like silent submarines. One passenger managed to capture a shocking moment on camera: a seal hurled metres into the air by these apex predators. Thankfully, the surrounding waters are meticulously tested to ensure they're safe before a few fearless guests attempt the infamous 'polar plunge'—a headfirst dive into the icy deep, secured by rope just in case nerves get the better of them mid-swim. Above Explore the icy waters of Antarctica After each invigorating outing, the ship awaited like an old friend. A martini or caipirinha in hand, we prepared for dinner at one of the ship's three impeccable restaurants. The cuisine was consistently sublime. A bowl of cacio e pepe, for instance, rivalled anything I'd sampled in Rome just weeks before. No mean feat at the edge of the Earth. The most transcendent moments often involved the icebergs: colossal ones the size of football pitches drifted past like frozen cathedrals, while smaller bergs, floating serenely in luminous aquamarine pools, provided peaceful perches for weary penguins. On our penultimate morning, we awoke to what could easily be mistaken for a digitally rendered dreamscape: the entire Antarctic panorama mirrored in a motionless sea. Once again, Antarctica had reminded us of her greatest gift—reflections so pure they border on the surreal. Article published from the original feature in Tatler Vietnam, March 2025 issue NOW READ How to spend 48 hours in the ancient capital of Hue Hoi An's shadow in a heritage coffee space Discover the world of Louis Vuitton trunks: Heritage, innovation and the art of living
