Why Hair Tools Still Haven't Won Over Textured Hair Consumers

Business of Fashion

3 days ago

Black women spend more on their hair than any other demographic. Yet the makers of hair tools, a popular and lucrative category, are failing to appeal to them.
In 2024, a campaign from premium brand Dyson saw a swift backlash. The now-deleted video showed a Black woman with Afro hair using the Dyson Airstrait, its then-newly launched styling tool, to straighten her hair. However, there was no notable difference after one pass with the styling tool. In a statement, Dyson said that while its products are engineered for all hair types and textures, it recognised that the video did not showcase this adequately, and that for those with coily or Afro hair, the product is best used to stretch the hair.
In many cases, including Dyson's, the devices themselves are suitable for Afro hair types. It's the campaigns that miss the mark.
Tools like the Dyson Airwrap and Shark Flexstyle have gained enormous popularity as consumers look to create salon-worthy styles in their own homes, with products often retailing for north of $500 and gaining must-have status, especially amongst younger shoppers. Customers with textured hair hold immense potential: The market is expected to hit $15.6 billion by 2031, according to market research and consulting firm Allied Analytics.
Not only will a poorly executed campaign fall flat, but it also undermines the brand's credibility and innovative muscle.
'If your campaign misses that mark, consumers won't just ignore it, they'll let everyone know,' said Joe Gagliese, co-founder and co-CEO of social media agency Viral Nation.
Brands find success when they strike the perfect balance between tech and beauty marketing, said Shark Beauty's chief marketing officer Kleo Mack, who joined the brand in May from Glossier. To ensure campaigns represent the products' full potential, and don't go viral for the wrong reason, having diverse teams and working closely with curly, coily and tight-textured hair specialists is key — innovation is fruitless if it's not adequately communicated to the end user.
'If you have the right engineers, good for you,' said Jamelia Donaldson, founder and chief executive of Treasure Tress, a hair product discovery box for textured hair. 'But if you're not able to deliver a strong marketing message that well represents the consumer that you're trying to connect to, and presents them with a desired outcome, then it's useless.' Building a Successful Campaign
One way to more effectively demonstrate a product's suitability for all hair types is to let creators, not models, make the adverts.
Creators can organically demonstrate how products can be used on textured hair, and have the added benefit of bringing their own flair and personality, and in some cases, specialised knowledge or savoir-faire with a particular market or region. For some brands, simply gifting the products to consumers, who then showcase them online, is enough to boost sales.
'When [customers] see how [real people] use our products, and the result on their hair, that is a huge selling factor for us,' said Christiane Pendarvis, co-CEO of Pattern, the hair brand founded by the actress Tracee Ellis Ross, which makes tools like blow dryers and curling irons that retail for $189 and $249. Real-world endorsements help give the products a more authentic stamp of approval that cuts through the clutter of the marketplace, she said.
Brands also need to understand the different needs that different hair types have, and how different consumers might use products. The Dyson Airwrap might be used by a Caucasian customer to get a bouncy blow-dry effect, but a customer with coily hair might be more attuned to its stretching properties, or ability to dry the hair with less damaging heat.
A skilful marketing activation can not only help engage existing customers, but also secure new ones: In May, during Met Gala weekend, Pattern, which usually targets women, held a barbershop event in New York, drawing a mix of male influencers and stylists to the pop-up. One barber used the Pattern hair steamer on his clients' beards to help lock in moisture, highlighting the versatility of the tool.
'We really rely on those experts who understand the value of these heat tools and who know how to use them properly,' Pendarvis said. A Seat at the Table
The key to producing a successful and inclusive marketing campaign is ensuring the right people are able to shape, critique and challenge a brand's marketing choices. When brands release tone-deaf marketing campaigns, it can be an indication of lacking internal representation.
Diversity in senior positions can help brands spot any marketing mishaps before a campaign is released to the public. When people of colour hold executive positions, it 'empowers people to have an opinion and question the quality of something that's going live,' said Donaldson. Brands may have diversity within the organisation, but if those individuals hold junior positions, they may not have the confidence to flag any issues, or their feedback may not be taken seriously, she added. Shark's campaigns show the products in use with a variety of hair textures. (Shark) Pattern has recruited professionals to demonstrate the wide use of its tools. (Kamilah) Shark's campaigns show the products in use with a variety of hair textures. (Shark)
Using consultant advisors is another option brands can use to gain insight: Shark has its Textured Hair Advisory Board, which is made up of experts from salon owners, educators, and specialists in 4C hair, including Toriah Mimms, CEO and founder of The Curl Bar and professional hair stylist Quam Kent. This move has allowed the brand to receive direct feedback on heat tools from stylists before the product goes to market.
Representation has the power to turn hesitant onlookers into loyal consumers. 'You need to see someone that looks like you, someone that has hair like you, someone that's credible using the product, ' said Mack. A Spotlight on Innovation
For campaigns to showcase both the tools' potential and celebrate textured hair, adverts need to adequately demonstrate how the tool can be used on curly, coily and tight-textured hair types.
For Pattern, consumer insights shape how the product is developed, and which is then used to inform the marketing strategy. For example, its curling iron comes with a barrel that is small enough for coily and curly hair consumers to replicate and enhance their natural curl pattern.
'When we go to market [these products], it really shows that we understand our community and we're building products really with them first in mind,' said Pattern's Pendarvis.
For newcomers like Noma Sana, a UK-based hair tool brand, partnering with salons is crucial for building trust and reaching new clients, as consumers are likely to learn more about the tool from the stylist, which can lead to sales, said founder Lily Odogwu.
'When consumers feel seen, they engage. When they feel heard, they stay,' Gagliese said. 'When they believe a brand respects their lived experience, they share that story with you [their audiences].'
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