Delhi's celebrated Loya opens in Mumbai, with a Maharashtrian twist

The Hindu

13-05-2025

Loya brings back the joy of eating together. The large portions, the act of making food at your table-side, the revolving serving tables — the restaurant brings the spirit of North India to Mumbai, with a Maharashtrian twist.
Launched in Delhi in November 2022, Loya opened its second branch in Bengaluru almost a year later, and chose destination Mumbai this year. Opened at the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai recently, it is a tribute to simple, homemade food which respects the age-old traditions of the Himalayas and Northern India. Spices and condiments here are sourced specially from their roots.
'In New Delhi, LOYA presents bold, robust dishes that resonate with the city's colder climate and rich culinary heritage. Bengaluru's menu takes a balanced approach — ingredient-forward, with an emphasis on provenance and modern technique. In contrast, Mumbai's coastal character is reflected in a lighter, more subtle menu designed to appeal to the city's sophisticated and eclectic palate in drinks and food menu,' says Rajesh Wadhwa, brand chef of Loya restaurants.
The bar, which features a selection of 500 exclusive bottles of limited-edition whiskies and wines, is the centre of attraction with its formidable basalt structure, and water flowing around it, conveying an aura of the mountains. 'Here, you feel like you are sitting in the Himalayas and enjoying your drink,' says Ansh Bhatia, restaurant manager.
As we settle on the high chairs, Arshaan Hafiz, the bartender, works his magic, shaking up a Masala Whisky, which includes bourbon and orange bitters. He infuses this mixture with the smoke of 11 different spices including star anise, cardamom, clove, fennel seeds. 'Our cocktail philosophy is rooted in the significance of the number five in Indian culture — an element that ties into the five rivers, five senses, five elements of life, and Loya's five key principles: harmony, experimentation, authenticity, reverence, and spirit. These principles represent the heart of the North, and our drinks menu is crafted around this concept,' says Ansh.
For non-drinkers there are zero-proof cocktails. We try the refreshing tamarind fennel soda laced with cranberry, orange essence and lemon, then topped with a dehydrated orange slice. We also try the Saffron Delight and Sunrise to Sunset. Saffron Delight is a delectable mix of orange juice, mango juice, lime, saffron and soda, in a tall glass with chimney ice. It is finished with a half-moon orange slice. Sunrise to Sunset is the mixture of pomegranate juice, mango puree, basil syrup, lemon and soda, served in a brandy balloon glass, with bubble ice.
'Our menu reflects the spirit of communal dining, where each course invites guests to experience India's diverse culinary heritage,' says Chef Apurva Malpande, adding, 'From the smoky depths of the tandoor to the delicate flavours of hand-pounded spices, our approach celebrates the artistry of slow cooking, age-old techniques, and local ingredients, all reimagined for the modern palate.' The idea, she says, is to spotlight hidden treasures of Indian cuisine — authentic, preserved recipes that have stood the test of time, yet remain fresh and exciting today.
Try the daal chaat, which consists of chickpea and gehu (wheat) paratha crisps served with chilli oil and garlic nibs, finished at the table. It is the show-stealer for us. The Maash ki Tikki, patties made with soaked black urad dal and chana dal with a stuffing of dates, quoted in breadcrumbs before being deep fried, was a bit underwhelming. The flavours did not seem to stand out as well. Chulai ki Seekh, a mixture of amaranth leaves and potato flakes cooked in tandoor on skewers, was an interesting way to eat the oft-boring amaranth, a leafy vegetable.
For main course, we order the Gola Paratha, layered bread made with whole wheat flour and clarified butter; Tikkad ki Missi roti, bread made of bajra, whole wheat, gram flour and spices; and Malera roti, bread made with cultured dough finished with cashew nuts, sesame and fennel seeds.
We like their Chakki paneer, made in a tangy and spicy yogurt sauce. The Kafuli Saag, consisting of local seasonal greens cooked in iron pot and kathal baingan bharta made with smoked and spiced eggplant with jackfruit, are decent. What is noteworthy is the umami smoky flavour that the dungar (a traditional North Indian technique of smoking food) lends to the bharta.
For the non-vegetarians, signature dishes here including Gosht Ki Lazeez Pasliyan, Raan-e-Jirga, and Bhanjeer Murg Masaledar pork ribs. Loya's Kangda Kodia Gosht (mutton curry) is made with whole roasted Kashmiri walnuts: the shells are powdered and used to darken the curry.
Our lunch ends with creamy kulfi pops, a selection of rose petals, saffron-cardamom, royal paan leaf, and malai kulfi. We also try the indulgent Badana Pearls, a combination of rabri and saffron foam. But my favourite dessert is the rich, comforting Doodh Jalebi — warm and crispy jalebis accompanied by milk in three different flavours.
The meal ends with us pounding our own mukhwas (mouth freshener) in a mortar and pestle, so we can create individual blends. Mine has khajoor supari (dates and betel nut), fresh paan, zesty ginger chips, and a touch of misri (rock sugar).