Inspired to walk the ‘Salt Path'? These are the best bits of the 660-mile coastal route

Independent

2 days ago

Raynor Winn's debut novel, The Salt Path, first captured the hearts of readers when it was published back in 2018 and quickly became a Sunday Times bestseller. The memoir, which has been turned into a film now in cinemas, tells the story of everyone's worst nightmare. Not only did she and her husband, Moth, lose their home and B&B business at their Welsh farm after an investment went wrong, but they truly hit rock bottom when Moth was diagnosed with a rare neurodegenerative disease, corticobasal degeneration.
Without any other options, they came up with the idea of embarking on an adventure, by walking the 630 miles of the South West Coast Path and seeing where it took them, figuratively and physically.
With almost 300 miles of it in Cornwall, it begins in Minehead in Somerset, traverses along the north Devonshire and Cornish rugged coasts, and heads back along the south coast of the counties into Dorset, finishing at South Haven Point in Poole. It's a mammoth walk that initially seems almost totally unachievable for them, considering Moth's ill health, along with having such little money that they have to live off packet noodles, and wild camp.
In the film, locations aren't given, and instead, geography is only marked by the number of miles walked, focusing on the idea of the gravity of the challenge, and how location doesn't matter to them. Instead, it's all about keeping moving.
As one of the UK' s best coastal hiking routes, the South West Coast Path can be taken at a much slower pace, and walkers usually complete it in sections over many years. So if you're inspired to pull on your walking boots, here are some of the best sections along the famous route to stomp along, as well as places to rest your weary head, that don't include the need for a tent.
1. Clovelly to Hartland, North Devon
Some of the most memorable – and instantly recognisable – scenery in the film comes from the little 14th-century village of Clovelly perched 400ft up on the north Devon coast. Clovelly isn't actually on the coast path itself, it's just off it, as one of the UK's only privately owned villages. It's been privately owned by the Hamlyn family and their descendants since Elizabethan times, which means you have to pay to enter (£9.90 for adults). The current owner is John Rous, and it's this entrance fee that's allowed it to become a maintained relic of a time gone by that's still inhabited and thriving and, most importantly for Cornwall, hasn't been taken over by holiday lets as second homes aren't allowed.
The walk down to the harbour isn't the easiest, as not only is it very steep, but it's entirely cobbled too. Too steep even for cars, years ago villagers came up with the idea of using sledges to transport goods up and down the slope. Years ago, donkeys were used, but now you'll find them in the stables at the top of the village.
Back on the path, this section that's part of the Hartland Heritage coast is truly spectacular with soaring ascents, making it renowned as one of the hardest parts, but the views make it well worth it.
Stay at: The Collective, Woolsery
In the little village of Woolfardisworthy, locally known as Woolsery, is the Collective, a complex made up of a pub, fish and chip shop, local shop, farm and accommodation. The area has been given a new lease of life thanks to Michael and Xochi Birch. Millennial readers will remember their social media platform Bebo, which they sold. They then swapped Silicon Valley for north Devon, as Michael's family had lived here for 600 years. The Farmers Arms pub has excellent food, including hogget from their own farm too. There are rooms, suites and cottages over the road.
Doubles from £275 night; woolsery.com/stay
2. Boscastle to Tintagel, north Cornwall
Perhaps the most ethereal villages on the entire coast path are Boscastle and Tintagel, which are only about 3.5 miles apart and will likely take about five hours to walk between. The fishing village of Boscastle sits in a deep rugged valley that's incredibly dramatic and has an air of mysticism to it. Its windswept landscapes inspired poet and author Thomas Hardy, while it's also home to the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, with thousands of witchy books, spells and paraphernalia.
Walking out from Boscastle's pretty harbour, pick up the coast path along the clifftops where the white watchtower is perched. Just under a mile from Tintagel, if it's a sunny day, drop down to Bossiney beach, a fabulous little sandy cove, for a swim.
The section is another fairly challenging part of the path, but you'll see Tintagel Castle in the distance before descending into the village. It's regarded as the birthplace of King Arthur and is steeped in myth and legend. From the heart of the village, it's another steep walk down to the ruins of the castle (there are Land Rovers for those who prefer a quick ride) which is owned by English Heritage and costs £16.80 for adults.
The reward is worth it, thanks to the views walking over the footbridge, suspended 58 metres above the sea, over to the medieval ruin. Look out below at the craggy inlets, and Merlin's Cave, a blowhole that makes a loud whooshing sound as the waves wash in as the tide comes in. On the other side, don't miss Gallos (which translates to 'power' in Cornish) the life-size bronze statue that's been inspired by King Arthur.
Stay at: Kudhva
Just two miles from Tintagel is Kudhva (Cornish for 'hideout'), a glamping site with futuristic-looking angular treehouse pods that sit among the treetops, with ladders up to the entrances. The whole site, which is set in a disused quarry, is about connecting with nature, from swimming in the lake to stargazing.
In the film, one of North Cornwall's biggest towns, Newquay, is portrayed as a rather down-and-out place full of delinquents. It did have a reputation as the place to celebrate finishing school exams, and being full of stag and hen dos – but now this is firmly behind it. It's always had some of the UK's best beaches and has been the home of British surfing since the Sixties, hosting the championships at Watergate Bay.
From Watergate Bay, walk about an hour north to the beautiful small town of Mawgan Porth. Once it was only locals who knew about this wide open beach and great waves, but now it has been found by celebrities and it's changing quickly. Or for a longer hike, head south along the coast to Perranporth, which is about 4.5 hours of walking.
Cornwall's first aparthotel, SeaSpace bridges the best bits of a hotel and an apartment. It's right on the clifftops above Watergate Bay in Newquay and has one- to three-bedroom apartments. For the best views, book a room at the front of the building which looks over the sea. Families will love the Miami-inspired 19-metre pool, and you can also hire a surfboard and hit the waves that are just a hop, skip and jump away.
4. Pendeen lighthouse to St Just, West Cornwall
At the southern tip of Cornwall on Land's End peninsula are some of Cornwall's best preserved tin mines. The industry was the beating heart of the county in the 18th and 19th centuries, when it was the world's biggest tin exporter, making the county extremely wealthy. Unsurprisingly, it's now designated a world heritage site.
Starting from Pendeen lighthouse, heading south will take you past the Geevor tin mine museum (one of the last mines to close in 1990), the Levant mine, Crown's Engine House and Botallack mine (which features in both the 2015 Poldark series and the Rick Stein's Cornwall series), as well as the Wheal Edward Engine House.
The rolling cliffs here are full of drama, and some headlands have very narrow paths, which almost feels like walking on a tightrope; they're so narrow that they likely won't be there for too much longer, so tread with care.
Stay at: Gurnard's Head hotel
Slightly further back up the coast is Gurnard's Head hotel, an unmissable landmark thanks to its bright gorse-yellow painted exterior that's right on the clifftop. The former coaching inn is still a traditional cosy pub (refreshingly, there are no TVs in the rooms), and it's just a short walk to the coast path.
6. Branscombe to Beer, east Devon
Along this little stretch of east Devon's coastline, there are two of the county's most picturesque beaches. Starting in the twee 14th-century village of Branscombe, where the local thatched pub has taken over much of the village, it doesn't get much more bucolic than this. From the beach at Branscombe, with its dark reddish cliffs and beach huts, it's about 4.5 miles to Beer.
At Beer, the pebbled beach is flanked on either side by the south coast's chalky cliffs. At the end of each day, the fishing fleet is hauled up out of the water onto the pebbles waiting to return again the following day. At the top of the beach, near the sloped entrance, and just 100 metres from the water, is a hole-in-the-wall fish market selling the day's catch.
Stay at: Glebe House
Slightly inland, near the village of Southleigh, is Glebe House. Run by Hugo and Olive, they're paying homage to the Italian agriturismo model of B&Bs. Plenty of the food they serve comes from their smallholding, they organise food experiences with nearby producers, and Olive's eye for colourful, vintage-inspired artsy interiors is infectious.
Doubles from £159 night; glebehousedevon.co.uk
7. Kimmeridge Bay to Swanage, Dorset
This final walk comes in right near the end of the South West Coast Path, which officially ends at Shell Bay on South Haven Point in Poole, just opposite Sandbanks and Brownsea Island in prime Enid Blyton territory. Part of the Jurassic Coast world heritage site, it's far quieter here than the much shorter Lulworth Cove to Durdle Door section further east.
This is the longest section featured here, covering just over nine miles, from Kimmeridge Bay to Swanage. Walking along the chalk ridge, this section is one for budding archaeologists which keen fossil hunters will also love as it's an area people have lived and hunted in since the Mesolithic period, about 6,000 years ago. Views from the aptly named 'Heaven's Gate' are some of the best – inland looks to the Purbeck Hills, and over to Corfe Castle, and it offers excellent views back over the coastline. A fitting view to end on.
Looking a little like The Pig hotels, The Canford is on the other side of the English Channel and is just a short ferry ride over. It has chic countryside-inspired rooms in heritage colours that sit above the pub.