Super Bowl LIX: Foods the football fans and out-of-towners must try in New Orleans
Editor's note: With Super Bowl LIX in New Orleans, The Athletic reached out to two writers, Larry Holder and Chris Branch, who have made the city their home for years to discuss an important pregame and postgame topic — the cuisine.
NEW ORLEANS — People come to New Orleans for many things. Architecture, history, culture, drinks … the whole joie de vivre.
But above all, New Orleans is about food — no matter what Travis Kelce says.
Take it from these two locals: There is so much more to New Orleans' food than the highlights you know. Fusion is a passe term in food these days, but New Orleans cuisine was built on it. Cajun, Caribbean, African, French, Spanish — it's all in the proverbial gumbo pot here.
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The Athletic asked us to pick three dishes for out-of-towners to try with the Super Bowl at Caesars Superdome this week, which, frankly, was an impossible task. But here goes:
Is it dessert? Is it a meal? Is it safe to eat? There's a reason this mind-bender sits atop the menu on the appetizers for this classic, eclectic New Orleans restaurant that's been jam-packed in the city's Riverbend area since 1996.
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Technically, it's a quiche, and it used to be coined simply 'alligator cheesecake,' presenting a more dangerous appeal. Still, it's become one of the more famous dishes in the city and often leads to a trip next door to watch Rebirth Brass Band at the Maple Leaf Bar.
I'm starting my list with the simplest yet arguably best thing here. I've lived in Louisiana now for more than 30 years, and a shrimp po'boy is the homey food I still crave most.
A post shared by Domilises Poboys⚜️ (@domilisespoboys)
Domilise's serves its po'boys alongside icy mugs full of light beer, in an old-school house on a discreet corner. It's perfect.
It sounds so simple: a club sandwich with one more ingredient and one more element. It's grilled, and it's heated — as in with a hot sausage patty instead of the traditional ham.
Bar manager Jacob April came up with it basically on a whim during the COVID-19 pandemic. The popular eatery known for its roast beef po'boys doesn't prominently promote the sandwich on the menu, even though I've openly told owner Jeff Carreras it's the best sandwich I've ever eaten. During a lunch, a patron next to me ordered a simple hot sausage po'boy, and he dropped his sandwich in disgust after watching me scarf down the tall, triangular pile of scrumptiousness.
Tracey's also carries a bit of a Super Bowl backstory. The bar/restaurant boldly became the first in New Orleans to promote it would refuse to show Super Bowl LIII, helping to spur the city's 'Boycott Bowl' after the blown pass interference call late in the 2018 season NFC Championship Game that likely would've propelled the New Orleans Saints to their second Super Bowl appearance. The Magazine Street establishment landed headlines across the country as the pioneer of the bar bowl boycott movement.
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Gumbo is a must in the city, and I went with the most decadent for my choice. This restaurant is owned and operated by John Folse, who might be one of the most famous Cajun chefs on the planet.
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The gumbo possesses a dark roux — the best kind of roux — and boasts a whole-roasted quail stuffed with seasoned rice, andouille sausage and oysters. You might be OK with dying after eating a bowl of heaven.
I kicked this idea around with my double-byline friend and thought maybe it's become too cliche. A platter of grilled slime covered in garlic butter and parmesan cheese on top of a rock might not sound amazing, but there's a reason it's become one of the delicacies you're always seeing in videos coming back from a commercial of any game played in New Orleans.
A post shared by Drago's Seafood Restaurant (@dragosrestaurant)
Drago's is the king of the chargrilled oysters. Versions from Acme and Felix's are more than adequate to feed the fix. All three franchises have locations downtown and throughout the surrounding areas. Many establishments serve charbroiled oysters in the area, but some are certainly better than others.
Picking three dishes was a real struggle, but any visitor should witness the funky, delicious stuff that Turkey and the Wolf (and its sister restaurants, Molly's and Hungry Eyes) produces daily.
Collard Green Melt for the lunch win! pic.twitter.com/FJoiYRbmdx
— Shandy (@shandy21) May 13, 2021
This melt tastes like a Reuben with no pastrami. It is remarkable, messy and won't leave your mind for days.
Branch's smorgasbord: The Muffulettu at Porgy's Seafood Market, Gulf fish with pumpkin brodo at BABs, Le Pig Mac at Cochon Butcher, the entire menu at La Boulangerie.
Holder's smorgasbord: Barbecue nachos from Blue Oak BBQ, cheeseburger and a 'Monsoon' from Port of Call, muffuletta from Central Grocery & Deli, beignets from Cafe du Monde (basically just to say you had them), barbecue shrimp from Pascal's Manale or Mr. B's, anything from the following restaurants: Clancy's, Brigtsen's and Peche, a top-shelf frozen margarita from Superior Grill, a French 75 from Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar, a Lucky Dog (street vendor hot dog).
(Top photo of Drago's charbroiled oysters: William Widmer / The Washington Post via Getty Images)
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