Grilled Beef Loves Beefy Tomatoes
A grilled steak recipe that's really all about the tomatoes
Our best gazpacho
And, a pasta alla vodka with a cool twist
Good morning. The tomatoes are in where I stay, fat and brimming with flavor, almost aching in their pulchritude. They're best eaten uncooked, warm from the sun.
I'd like to use some tonight for a grilled steak with tomato tartare (above), a smoke-kissed, tomato-forward variation on steak tartare, with rare beef paired with the deep, sweet acidity of chopped heirloom tomatoes and the classic sharp flavors of shallots, capers and chives. Grill some toast to go with it and serve over a thatch of watercress.
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Alternatively (you ate steak last night, you're out of charcoal or propane, maybe there's a child home for the summer, newly vegetarian), you could just cut up some tomatoes, pile them onto bread, call it a meal. I had a version of that at the restaurant Houseman in New York the other evening and have been dreaming of it ever since: tomatoes and smoked mayonnaise on focaccia.
You certainly could smoke oil for mayonnaise (15 or 20 minutes in a shallow pan should do it). But if you're not up for that adventure, you don't need to. Just chop some tomatoes into a bowl and salt them well. Toast your focaccia. Then — and this is key — absolutely trowel your favorite mayonnaise onto the bread before piling it with tomatoes to serve with a knife and fork. 'Absolutely trowel,' Houseman's chef, Ned Baldwin, confirmed in a text message. 'That's the gesture I'm going for, man. 100 percent.'
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