Not A Mirage: La Quinta Is A Golfer's Desert Oasis
For a good handful of decades now, I have utilized the Coachella Valley as an escape hatch from the hurly-burly and persistent thrum of Los Angeles, a city with more angles than angels on a given day. The desert escape two hours west of the city is perhaps best known for the mid-century kitsch of Palm Springs, where rat-pack royalty like Sinatra and Bob Hope, and even a true king--the one and only Elvis Presley–maintained homes away from home. Mini- and maxi-malls now line Highway 111 that runs north/south through the desert communities here, that and miles of golf-centered residential communities packed with retirees and snowbirds come the winter months.
A desert house designed by Richard Neutra for Edgar J. Kaufmann, Palm Springs, California, January ... More 1970. Lita Baron approaches, while in the foreground Nelda Linsk (right) wife of art dealer Joseph Linsk, is talking to her friend, Helen Dzo Dzo. (Photo by)
Palm Springs proper is a fantastic destination for architecture zealots: Desert Modernism is the prevailing style, a minimalist pastiche of flat or butterfly roofs, open floor plans and a blissful blend of indoor and outdoor spaces. Frank Lloyd Wright disciple Richard Neutra's pair of masterpieces--the Miller and Kaufmann Residences--are well worth a tour, as are homes by John Lautner and Donald Wexler. You can self-explore these marvels by car or seek expert guidance from the folks at Modern Tours Palm Springs. Martinis are in order, as well as garish floral print shirts and oversized sombreros.
Much as I relish a visit to Palm Springs proper, it does get fairly packed with vacationers from autumn until springtime, and especially during spring break and the nearby Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in mid-April. For older codgers like me who prefer golf clubs to nightclubs, a serene and charming alternative is the city of La Quinta, best known for its incomparable golf courses at PGA West and the historic La Quinta Resort & Club, another redolent whiff of Hollywood's glorious days gone by.
La Quinta Resort offers a quiet place for a nap amidst a garden setting. There are also 41 pools ... More scattered amidst the casitas at the desert resort. (Photo by Gina Ferazzi/Los Angeles Times via Getty Images)
Director Frank Capra–who adapted his screenplay for 'It Happened One Night' at the resort--is but one of dozens of Tinseltown's marquee names who flocked to La Quinta for needed rest and relaxation. 'It is the kind of place everyone was looking for,' he said, 'a wonderful green oasis in the middle of the desert, and it is absolutely private.' Chances are he'd have run into colleagues like Bette Davis or Clark Gable there, or even the reclusive Greta Garbo, pictured with Capra poolside in the below photo.
Garbo and Capra, cold-chilling at La Quinta Resort.
Nowadays, you're more likely to find musicians performing at Coachella at the resort, or tennis legends like Serena Williams or Roger Federer, who call one of the cozy casitas home while appearing at celebrity events at the stadium court. Live like the pampered swells by checking into the Starlight Casita, a second-floor luxury room with arresting mountain views and a private patio replete with an outdoor fireplace. In the name of utter indulgence, soak in your own private hot tub while tucking into one of the Whirlpool Casitas, a good way to loosen up after a day on the links.
Hole #7 PGA West Stadium Course PGA TOUR Archive via Getty Images
Speaking of the game of gentlemen (and women of course), the family of golf courses at nearby PGA West are an integral component of a visit to La Quinta. Nine championship designs grace the mountain-surrounded greenery, as well as five clubhouses and two private clubs. Called 'the Western home of golf in America,' its courses are familiar to viewers of professional golf and NCAA tournaments. Those of a certain age may remember Lee Trevino's hole in one at the challenging Stadium Course during the 1988 Skins Game, earning him a cool million buckaroos (half of which he graciously donated to St. Jude Children's Hospital).
PALM SPRINGS - A General View of the 9th hole on the Mountain course of the LA Quinta resort Golf ... More Course, Palm Springs California, United States of America.(Photo by)
One would do well to tune up the old swing at one of the resort's two courses--the Mountain or Dunes layouts--before doing battle at Pete Dye's demanding Stadium layout. Dye also designed the Mountain Course, known for its dramatic elevation changes and eye-catching views of the Santa Rosa Mountains. The course's signature 16th hole is a par 3 with a tee shot over a cavernous quarry, a test of both skill and nerve alike. The Dunes Course is more of a traditional Scottish links design with its hard-rolling fairways and strategically-placed bunkering.
After golf, it would behoove the hungry golfer to stop at Ernie's Bar & Grill in the PGA West Tournament Clubhouse, where the drinks are cold and frosty and the food several cuts above your usual golf course fare (revolving wrinkled hot dogs and bland processed turkey wraps, et al). We had a surprisingly credible/edible Margherita pizza with buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil, as well as a crisp and refreshing Chinese Chicken Salad. Okay, I confess, we also gorged out on The West Dog, an all-beef frankfurter with jalapeno aioli and PGA West's own house bacon on a brioche bun. House bacon! This ain't your pappy's golf course tubesteak, folks, and vive la difference.
Point Happy Room at La Quinta Cliffhouse
As cushy and cozy as life can get at the Resort, it does pay to take a short drive into the city of La Quinta proper to get a better picture of the town's charm and character. Dinner at the La Quinta Cliffhouse Grill & Bar is a mandatory watering hole, with its elegant indoor/outdoor setting abutting the rocky cliffs that surround the dining area. The pan-roasted Chilean Seabass was prepared perfectly, accompanied by sticky rice and a curry-coconut sauce. Down the road a piece near Old Town is another standout, Lavender Bistro, with its pistachio-crusted rack of lamb and Maine lobster ravioli among the best dinner choices. Its open-air terrace was packed with diners on a Tuesday night, which speaks volumes. A unique setting with great food and service.
A view of Old Town, La Quinta CA
Finally, if you need a pit-stop for coffee, craft beer or gift-gathering, Old Town La Quinta comprises over 30 eateries, boutiques, salons and services. Main Street Coffee is known for their friendly staff and fresh pastries, while the Alexandrite Active & Golf Wear shop will outfit you in style for golf, tennis, cycling and yoga. Remember, as Billy Crystal used to quip: 'It's better to look good than to feel good.' Top it all off with a Sunday visit to the Certified Farmer's Market every Sunday morning for locally-farmed honey, fresh-squeezed juices and bushels full of organic fruits and veggies. Not only is it pooch-friendly, our trusty hound Lucy found her way to some delicious treats--but then again, that crazy dog would eat anything!
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