I spent three days in Trentino – packed with glacier-blue lakes, pine-clad forests and jaw-dropping views

Scottish Sun

5 days ago

The air is pure, the walking incredible and the food divine
HIGH AND DOLMIGHTY I spent three days in Trentino – packed with glacier-blue lakes, pine-clad forests and jaw-dropping views
THEY say that the mountains change you.
And after three days hiking the Via delle Valli in Trentino - with everything I needed strapped to my back - I believed them. Mostly because I still feel the climb in my thighs!
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Hiking brings gorgeous views on Val Nambrone
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The stunning Dolomites in Trentino Italy
Credit: Alamy
Perched in Italy's far north, Trentino borders Austria and Germany, and is home to the dramatic Dolomite range and the soaring Italian Alps.
Think jagged granite peaks, emerald lakes fed by glacier melt, and valleys so cinematic they make The Sound of Music look like Glasgow Green.
We arrived just in time for the summer solstice, joining a small group for a mountain adventure that began with a hair-raising drive up narrow alpine roads, past pine forests and remote huts perched thousands of metres above sea level.
The air hits differently up here - like champagne for your lungs. It's crisp, thin, and slightly terrifying when you're hoofing it uphill at altitudes you've never experienced before.
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We began at 2,000 metres - over 600 metres higher than Ben Nevis, our own tallest mountain. No wonder my heart was thumping.
But the payoff was immense. Around every turn was a view that made me reach for my phone to snap a picture, only to realise the camera couldn't quite capture the scale.
Our base for two nights was Rifugio Cornisello, a rustic mountain hut that blends youth hostel charm with rugged alpine hospitality.
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Rifugio Cornisello lights up the Dolomites
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Supplies arrive by cable car; guests arrive on foot. Accommodation is shared and simple, bunkhouse-style, but the welcome is warm and the views are knockout.
The smell of freshly oiled timber hits you when you enter Cornisello. We arrived on the first day of high-altitude season, which begins around June 20. Summer opening times are dictated by weather - snow can linger deep into spring.
We toasted our arrival with Trentodoc, a punchy local sparkling wine (Prosecco's beefier cousin), and watched the sun melt behind the Dolomites from one of the world's most scenic beer gardens.
Road trip to Dolomites in a motorhome
Dinner was hearty mountain fare: Strangolapreti (spinach and breadcrumb dumplings, right), rivers of melted butter, cheese and cured meats - alpine fuel for serious walkers.
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Trentino sits at the cusp between the traditional Mediterranean diet of fresh olive oil, vegetables and fish, and the hardier Alpine staples of bread, meat, and butter. You can tell how far up the mountain you are by whether you're served oil or butter with your toast!
The next morning, our hosts urged us to rise early for the solstice sunrise. I peeked through the curtains just after 4.45am, staring across a glacier-fed lake as the peaks turned pink in the morning light. Utterly still. Utterly humbling.
The weather changes rapidly at this height. While the UK was in a heatwave, we were wearing hats and fleeces as clouds rolled over the top of us - it's important to pack for all seasons up here.
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Jennifer drinks in the mountains views
Credit: Supplied
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The reason for the hike, however, was to experience part of a new initiative - La Via delle Valli - to open up Trentino's lesser-known valleys to hikers and promote slow, sustainable tourism the
Inspired by routes like the Camino de Santiago in Spain and Portugal, the idea is that you can return again and again, collecting rubbings in a 'mountain passport.'
Trails in the region are marked with red-and-white symbols, and there's something for everyone. You don't need to be a mountain goat - from gentle lake loops to Munro-level hikes and, for the brave, rope-and-axe climbs.
Regardless of skill level, all roads lead back to the rifugio, where boots are kicked off beside a year-round fire and hikers from around the world swap stories over dumplings and fine Italian wine.
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After exploring the local trails near Cornisello, we hiked deeper into the Adamello Brenta Natural Park, learning about conservation efforts from a local forest ranger.
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Astonihsing Adamello Brenta Natural Park
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Jennifer bedded down at the rustic Rifugio Segantini
The area is famous for its wildlife - our group spotted curious marmots while enjoying lunch al fresco and avoided any encounters with the region's 100 wild bears, who live peacefully alongside humans.
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In the morning, we packed our bags and climbed another 400 metres to Rifugio Segantini, perched above Lago Nero and surrounded by the towering Dolomites.
The trail between the two huts edged along the black lake, before ascending through snow and mist to gain close-up views of Cima della Presanella's highest peak (altitude: 3,558m).
It took us around 90 minutes, stopping for pictures along the way. The clouds parted just as we stopped for a quick lunch, revealing the summit in full.
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Scatto di Righi Manuel in Val Benolina
Credit: Righi Manuel
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Lago Nero is one of the most photographed lakes in Trentino - and italy
Rifugio Segantini may have been our endpoint for the night, but it's also the starting point for many hikes, including routes for experienced mountaineers.
Some of our group ventured out again after lunch. I stayed behind with my Kindle, watching the clouds drift below us from the refuge window as I took in the inversion.
Just when we thought we couldn't get more remote - here we were. No roads, no cars - only a tiny supply cable car. The altitude here peaked at 2,345 metres.
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The hut is basic but has all you need: a bar, a kitchen, a drying room, and a bookshelf. And that's the point. I couldn't have felt further from the hustle and hassle of the city.
After a hot meal and an even hotter shower, I crawled into my bunk early, heart thumping again as I adjusted to sleeping at altitude for the first time.
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Jennifer leaves Rifugio Segantini,
Credit: Supplied
And next morning? The only way down was a rocky trail. The descent brought more cinematic views - though I was grateful gravity was finally on our side.
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We passed through quiet valleys where cows and calves grazed peacefully, their bells echoing across the hills like wind chimes. The soundtrack of Trentino.
Locals say there are 50 valleys in Trentino - and once you hike them all, you become one of them. We only did a few. But I'm already hooked.
The colours here are dialled up to 11: turquoise lakes that look Photoshopped, glacier-striped cliffs, and wide blue skies.
If you're after a wild, high-altitude escape with proper food and endless views, the mountain huts offer camaraderie for walkers of all experience levels - and a deep sense of accomplishment at the end.
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Just bring good boots, poles, and a backpack that won't break your back.
And maybe learn how to say 'my legs hurt' in Italian!