Covid nudge behind Kolkata's recent al fresco dining boom

Time of India

04-05-2025

Kolkata: Open-air dining evolved into a trend, and al fresco dining became a go-to choice for parties in Kolkata, gaining popularity especially after the pandemic ushered in an era of social distancing.
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The Italian term 'al fresco' — meaning "in the fresh air" — found deep relevance with the citizens after the pandemic first altered the city's rhythm. That is when al fresco dining shifted from being a temporary fix to a defining lifestyle trend.
Before the pandemic, the city barely had around 20 restaurants that offered outdoor seating. By the start of 2025, that number grew exponentially to around 500, according to industry estimates.
For many restaurant owners, the shift was born out of necessity. Lockdowns and indoor capacity restrictions forced them to adapt creatively — opening up terraces, parking areas, and lawns to keep business afloat.
"We had an open-air as well as closed dining area since we opened in 2017. But after the pandemic, people started preferring the open spaces, and soon customers started falling in love with the setup. Now, with the current confusion surrounding the operation of rooftop setups, we are awaiting more clarity from the govt, and we have temporarily suspended our outdoor operations," said the owner of a rooftop restobar in south Kolkata.
Sudesh Poddar, president of the Hotel and Restaurant Associations of Eastern India, agreed. "The pandemic changed customer psychology. Many people still prefer outdoor seating for the added sense of space and ventilation. Al fresco dining, while not a new concept, has seen a tremendous resurgence in Kolkata," he said.
Unlike garden patios or sidewalk cafes common in the West, Kolkata's al fresco spaces have largely taken to the skies.
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With limited horizontal space in a densely packed city, rooftops have emerged as the most viable alternative. Restaurants like Capella, WhatsUp Café, and Blue and Beyond were early adopters of this trend.
"In Kolkata, the shift to alfresco dining happened organically. But the majority of us have both indoor and outdoor spaces as Kolkata weather is often not suitable for outdoor dining. Especially during summer and the rainy season, outdoor seating becomes difficult.
But in winters, especially, we see a huge surge in customers who want to dine under the stars," said a senior official of Capella in Sector V.
"Earlier, al fresco dining was mostly limited to weddings, parties, and clubs. But now, more people are opting for open spaces even for casual, daily dining and that shift has made dining more interactive," said Manzilat Fatima of popular outdoor dining option Manzilat's. "Post-Covid, there's a clear preference for open-air dining.
Al fresco spaces offer a breath of fresh air. People seem to crave lighter, more soothing ambiences now." She added that with rooftops now banned due to recent incidents, they don't know how they will adapt. "It's not something that will sit well with business owners or customers. This shift will likely face resistance from both ends," Manzilat explained.
Even during warmer months, some patrons make it work. Chandrani Mukherjee, a techie, said she loves visiting Roots near Rabindra Sadan even during summer.
"There's something refreshing about being outdoors. We spend hours at home and in office in air-conditioned environments. The wind blowing and the sight of Victoria Memorial under the sky with not-so-loud music is my preference during a hangout with friends," said the Jadavpur resident.
Modern al fresco restaurants are also a far cry from plastic chairs and basic setups. Today's open-air venues blend nature with design — think plush seating, ambient lighting, pergolas draped in bougainvillea, and vertical gardens which are curated for both comfort and Instagram appeal.
"There's a definite cost involved," said the owner of another popular rooftop restobar in Sector V. "But the growing footfall justifies the investment. However, with the current confusion surrounding the govt diktat, we have been left clueless on what to do next."