AeroMéxico plane nearly lands on top of Delta Air Lines 737 taking off
Delta Flight 590 was starting to roll down the runway at Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez with 144 customers and six crew members on board when the pilots saw another plane land directly in front of it, the airline said in a statement.
Flight tracking website Flightradar 24 shows AeroMéxico Connect flight 1631, an Embraer 190 regional jet, flew less than 200 feet over the moving Delta plane then landed in front of them on runway 5R.
The pilots stopped the takeoff and returned to the terminal. The plane eventually took off on its flight to Atlanta about three hours late.
Delta said it reported the incident to Mexican aviation authorities, as well as the Federal Aviation Administration and National Transportation Safety Board in the United States.
'Delta will fully cooperate with authorities as the circumstances around this flight are investigated,' the airline said in a statement. 'We appreciate the flight crew's actions to maintain situational awareness and act quickly – part of Delta's extensive training.'
AeroMéxico and the Mexican civil aviation authority did not immediately respond to CNN's request for comment.
Mexico's aviation safety rating was downgraded by the FAA in May 2021 for non-compliance with minimum international safety standards. The top level 'category one' status was restored in September of 2023 after, 'the FAA provided expertise and resources via technical assistance… to resolve the safety issues that led to the downgrade,' the agency said at the time.
CNN's Alexandra Skores contributed to this report.
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CNN
41 minutes ago
- CNN
The best dog harnesses in 2025, tried and tested
The best dog harnesses we tested Best dog harness: Non-Stop Dogwear Line Harness 5.0 Best harness for big dogs: Ruffwear Flagline Harness Best harness for smaller dogs: Ruffwear Front Range Harness Best budget dog harness: PetSafe Easy Walk Comfort Harness The best dog harnesses can help distribute force across your pup's chest and body, help manage pulling and keep them looking stylish. But with so many types of dogs and even more types of harnesses, how can you know which harness you should get? There's no need to worry, because I enlisted my dogs (and their doggy friends) to try on 10 of the best harnesses available. Together, the dogs and I tested for fit, ease of use, support and more. After an absurd amount of walks and an even more absurd amount of dog treats, here are the four harnesses we recommend. Non-Stop Dogwear Line Harness 5.0 Allowing the best range of motion and offering the largest number of sizes, the Non-Stop Dogwear Line Harness 5.0 is a clear winner. Ruffwear Flagline Harness For bigger or longer dogs with odd proportions, the added adjustability of the Flagline means it can fit almost any dog. Ruffwear Front Range Dog Harness This padded and super-comfortable harness is great for smaller dogs because of its short length. PetSafe Easy Walk Comfort No-Pull Harness If you want to save a few bucks, I also loved the adjustable fit and supportive padding of this PetSafe harness. While some dog harnesses are better for certain breeds and body types, if I could recommend one harness for any dog, it would be the Non-Stop Dogwear Line Harness 5.0. The reasons are quite simple, too. It has a versatile design that fits dogs like a dream, a huge sizing selection so you can buy a harness that actually fits the first time, an easy-to-put-on build and padded straps that keep your pup comfortable and supported. Fit was the hardest thing to judge when I started testing these harnesses. Since dogs have all sorts of body types, a harness that fits well on a long dachshund probably won't work for a French bulldog. However, the Line Harness looked great on every dog we tried. This is due to its smart and spacious design that uses minimal material, so your dog's movement is never restricted. My dogs, Miso and Dashi, are both very long but have deep chests, which means they're extra susceptible to harnesses being too short. When harnesses don't fit, the straps can rub on a dog's armpit, limiting shoulder mobility and possibly causing irritation. This is obviously a bad thing, so I made sure to look at how much armpit clearance each harness offered. The option with the best clearance? The Non-Stop Dogwear Line. When I put the harnesses on both my dogs, there was no rubbing, and they could move freely without any restrictions. My only issue with the fit is that the neck openings aren't adjustable. If your dog has an extra-blocky head, it may be difficult to put the harness on, even if it fits perfectly on their chest. Plus, thanks to the 10 sizes the Line Harness is available in, it's easy to find the right one. This harness isn't as adjustable as others I tested, so it's important to accurately measure (and re-measure) your dog to ensure you get the right size. It's no surprise this harness is designed so well, since Non-Stop specializes in harnesses for dog sports like skijoring and canicross. Beyond its fit that keeps movement unrestricted, the Line Harness 5.0 is built incredibly well. It has three places to attach a dog leash (only two for sizes 0 to 2), including a front clip to help dissuade pullers. The padding is thin but comfortable, and it also has reflective trim so you can easily see your dog at night. Plus, I've had one I've been testing for nearly a year now, and it's still in great condition. Non-Stop also offers a version of the Line Harness with a handle, but it's more for added control over your dog, not for picking them up. Hikers or owners of older dogs who might want to give their buddy a boost should keep reading, as some of our other winners might be better suited. Most dogs — and owners — will love the Non-Stop Dogwear Line Harness 5.0. With such a wide range of sizes, you can easily find the right fit, which is the most important feature of a dog harness. And when you take into account all the well-built details and its durable design, there aren't many reasons not to buy this one. As mentioned above, fit is the critical piece to finding the right harness for your dog. Because of that, I made sure to include picks that can accommodate body sizes that might not fit in the Non-Stop. To that end, if you have a dog that's long and lanky, you'll want to check out the Ruffwear Flagline. The Flagline has more clips and can be a little more annoying to put on than other harnesses I tested, but what you get is an unrivaled amount of adjustability and support for longer dogs. No harness I tested extended as far down my dogs' backs as the Flagline, which makes it perfect for breeds like border collies, rough collies, greyhounds and more. When I put most other harnesses on my lanky dogs, they would look comically small on their backs. Not so with the Flagline. The elongated design of the Flagline means your oddly proportioned pup will have more shoulder clearance and feel more supported. The six adjustment points, tied for the most of any harness I tested, mean you can accurately dial in the fit if your dog has odd body measurements. Plus, the handle is positioned far back on the harness instead of right behind the neck, which means your pup will be better supported if you need to give them a boost. If you're picking up your pup occasionally on hikes or when they're getting into the car, this handle will suffice. However, if you need to pick up your dog more often, check out the Ruffwear Web Master, which has more padding and support to keep your dog comfortable while being lifted. The details of the Ruffwear Flagline aren't lacking either. There are two leash attachments on the back and one on the chest to help manage pullers, and it comes with reflective trim (I do wish there were more of it, though). There's even a tiny pocket to stash a poop bag or their dog tags so they don't jingle down the trail. If you have a long dog or want a harness that's better equipped for hiking, the Ruffwear Flagline should be your pick. It's sleek but supportive, actually fits longer dogs thanks to its superior adjustability and comes in cute colors too. On the other end of the spectrum, small dogs with boxier shapes who don't need a long harness will love the Ruffwear Front Range. It's a low-profile, padded harness that's perfect for daily walks and small adventures. While the Front Range was too short for my lanky dogs, it fit smaller dogs perfectly. Dogs with boxier shapes had plenty of armpit clearance, and the minimal padding strikes a good balance of comfort and weight, especially for small dogs who might get tired wearing a heavier harness. Like the Flagline, the details on the Front Range are excellent. Sturdy-feeling buckles, reflective trim, a secret pocket and two attachment points make this a surprisingly feature-filled harness. Plus, it only has two clips, which means it's faster to put on than the Flagline (but has less adjustability). One thing this harness is missing is a handle, but since it'll probably be on smaller dogs, that isn't as big a deal. The Front Range comes in five sizes from XXS to L/XL, and the sizing felt slightly on the smaller side. If your dog is between sizes, I'd recommend choosing the larger option. Although you can only adjust the neck opening and the two chest straps, each has a wide range of adjustability to help you dial in the perfect fit. If your dog is extra tiny and doesn't fit in the recommended sizes for the Front Range, I'd recommend checking out the Ruffwear Hi & Light, which is essentially a trimmed-down version of the Flagline that comes in an XXXS. For small, boxy dogs who want a lightweight yet padded and comfortable harness, the Front Range is a no-brainer. It's durable and easy to clean, too, making it a solid all-around pick. If you're looking to save a few bucks, the best budget harness I tested was easily the PetSafe Easy Walk Comfort Harness. Its adjustable fit has a better chance of fitting longer dogs, and it has good shoulder mobility, plenty of padding and a price tag of only around $35. What helped make the PetSafe Easy Walk Comfort stand out was its surprisingly decent fit. Most low-cost harnesses I tried had wonky sizing that didn't fit my dogs (and I made sure to measure them to order the right size) or would ride up into my dogs' armpits. The Easy Walk, on the other hand, had more room in the shoulder areas than others. This PetSafe harness has an adjustable length on the bottom, and while that feature was found on other budget harnesses I tested, this one fit my pups much better. The top isn't adjustable besides the neck opening, so it still looked a bit short on them, but not as comically short as other harnesses I tested. I also liked the feel of the padding on the Easy Walk. One of the other harnesses I tested, the Blue-9 Balance, actually had a better fit than the Easy Walk thanks to its adjustable top and bottom, but it had zero padding and fell out of contention because of it. Another design element I appreciated was that the leash attachment is at the very back of the Easy Walk harness. That means when my dog pulled into the harness, the weight was more evenly spread out. If a leash attachment is at the front of a harness, you might as well be walking them on a collar. The materials feel reasonably well-built and durable, and while the harness doesn't feel as sturdy as the Ruffwear options, it still feels solid, especially when you consider the price tag. The one thing I don't love about this harness, though, is its handle. It's big and easy to grip, but the harness was too short on my dogs to safely use the handle to pick them up. Since the handle is near the front of the harness, I'd be picking them up at their shoulders, which would force their spine into an awkward position. You can use it to hold your dog and gain more control, but if you want to pick them up, I'd recommend the Flagline or Web Master from Ruffwear. With a solid fit, ample padding and a price tag below $40, the PetSafe Easy Walk Comfort is a great option for dog owners on a budget. It won't fit longer dogs as well as the Flagline, and it doesn't give your dog the same freedom of movement as the Non-Stop, but for daily walks and trips to the park, this harness fits the bill. I put every harness on my two dogs and tested for fit, support, ease of use and more. I also enlisted the help of some doggy friends with different body types to see how certain harnesses fit. Usability Ease of use: I put each harness on my dogs, judging how difficult the process was. Performance on different coat types: I put each harness on Miso, a short-coated border collie mix, and Dashi, a long-coated rough collie, and paid attention to how each interacted with their coats. Fit and sizing Brand-recommended sizing: I took my dogs' measurements and ordered the harnesses according to the brands' size charts. I took note of how they fit once I put them on my dogs. Fit and pulling test: I let my dogs pull at the end of the leash while wearing each harness to see how secure it was. I observed how well the harness supported the dogs as they pulled and if it moved around at all. Shoulder mobility test: I observed the dogs as they walked and ran while wearing each harness, noting their shoulder mobility and any rubbing. Size options: I counted how many sizes each harness comes in. Exchange policy: In the event you order the wrong size, I researched each brand's exchange and return policy. Design and durability Build quality: I thoroughly examined each harness, pulled on straps, squeezed clips and pressed on padding. I took note of how durable each harness felt. Portability: I folded down each harness to see how easily they could be packed for a trip. Number of adjustment points: There are two ways of thinking about fitting a harness. Brands could offer several sizes with fewer adjustments, or fewer sizes with more adjustability. I tried to balance both in my picks and took into account the number of sizes and the number of adjustment points while testing. Number of connection points: I counted how many places you could attach a leash on each harness and judged their quality. Extra features Extra features: I took note of any extras on the harness, such as an ID tag pocket, handle, reflective trim and more. To ensure you buy the right harness the first time, I consulted with dog trainers to determine what you should look for and why you might need a harness in the first place. 'Harnesses are great for keeping pressure off of a dog's neck and having a more thorough connection with their body,' said Matt Mason, animal trainer at the Duffield Institute for Animal Behavior in the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. That means they're easier on your dog's body than collars when going on walks. This is particularly important for all dogs, but even more crucial for those that pull or engage in more challenging activities, such as hiking. Here's what to think about when shopping for a harness, according to Kirsten Belinsky, certified dog trainer and founder of Canine Athletics Training Center. 'Shoppers should look for something that allows for freedom of movement, durability, ease of attachment points and how easy it is to put on the dog,' Belinsky said. When it comes to fit, Belinsky said to ensure the harness doesn't restrict movement or touch your dog's shoulder blades or armpits. 'A well-fitted harness should strike a balance between comfort and safety,' Mason said. 'Straps should rest on solid areas like bone and not cut into organs or 'squishy' parts of the dog. Keep straps out of joints or other crevices where chafing is likely to occur. Watch your dog walk, trot and run both with and without the harness. There should be no noticeable differences in your dog's gait while wearing their harness.' To ensure a good fit, it's important to measure your dog. Most harnesses need the girth of your dog and the circumference of their neck. If you don't have a soft tape measure, you can wrap a leash around your dog, mark the spot where the leash overlaps, then measure the length on the leash. Most brands have some tips on how to best measure your dog. But just in case the harness doesn't fit the first time, it's a good idea to research each brand's return and exchange policies in case you need to swap sizes. 'The general rule of thumb is dog equipment should be snug enough that you can only fit two fingers beneath each strap,' Mason said. 'Depending on your dog's coat length or individual build, you may want to go a little bit tighter for safety. It is important to tug on individual straps and assess if your dog would easily be able to escape the harness.' While fit is the most important factor, other details like durability and ease of use matter a lot too. If a harness is too hard to put on, you won't use it. And if the leash attachment pops off the first time your dog pulls hard, your harness is useless. You might not want to spend the extra money on a higher-quality harness, but your money will last longer when it lasts for years instead of months. Another factor Mason said to consider is material. 'If you find yourself on night walks, using reflective harnesses (or attaching reflective/glowing material to an existing harness) is a must,' Mason said. 'If you end up in the water with your dog, waterproof materials are available. Make sure to read up on the cleaning requirements and durability of each material to make sure it fits your lifestyle.' Ruffwear Hi & Light Lightweight Dog Harness This harness is essentially the front half of the Flagline. It was too short for my dogs, but it comes in XXXS, so it could be a good option for toy breeds. This harness has a very similar construction to the Flagline in that it's light, but it's much shorter. It doesn't have as many clips, which means less adjustability. However, it does come in a smaller size than the Front Range, so if your dog is too small for that padded harness, this is a great alternative. Blue-9 Balance No-Pull Dog Harness I loved the adjustability of this harness, but its straps can easily get tangled and don't offer much support. The adjustability of the Blue-9 harness was my favorite during testing. You can tweak the neck opening, girth, bottom length and the top length, which gave it one of the best fits out of any harness I tried. However, there's zero padding, and the harness is mainly a series of nylon straps, which don't offer much support. I also found that when all the straps are unclipped, they can get tangled, which makes putting them on harder than other harnesses I tested. Ruffwear Web Master Dog Harness With Handle This harness has too much padding for most and made my rough collie a bit too hot on a summer day. However, all that extra padding and support mean it's the best option I tested for lifting your dog. This big harness is built to make lifting your dog as easy as possible. It's got a huge, well-positioned grab handle, four clips that go under your dog's chest and tons of padding. It's the perfect option for search and rescue dogs, service dogs or other canines that might have to be lifted a lot. But for everyday walks, it's a bit too bulky and hot. PetSafe 3-in-1 Dog Harness This harness is similar to the Blue-9 above in that it doesn't have great support, but it also offers less adjustability. With a similar design to the Blue-9, this barebones harness has decent adjustability. However, the top length can't be changed, which made it slightly worse than the Balance harness in my rankings. PetSafe EasySport Dog Harness This harness doesn't have an adjustable neck, and the sizing felt a bit off to me. It was smaller than I expected, and I wish there were more size options since it isn't as adjustable as others. The sizing on this harness felt small, and its neck opening isn't adjustable. This wouldn't be a huge deal if it offered more sizes (like the Non-Stop), but since it only comes in four sizes, it will probably be harder to find one that fits perfectly. Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart Harness The fit for this harness felt off, and it was super short on my dogs, which looked awkward to me and couldn't have been comfortable for them. The sizing on this harness also felt off, and since it was so short, it rubbed in my dogs' armpits. It's cheap, but it doesn't have any adjustability on the top or bottom, and it has minimal padding. I think the PetSafe Easy Walk is a much better harness for about the same price. The following FAQs were answered by certified dog trainer Kirsten Belinsky and animal trainer Matt Mason. What is the best way to put on a dog harness? What is the best way to put on a dog harness? 'Whenever you introduce a new piece of equipment to a dog, make it a slow and positive experience,' Mason said. 'Harnesses with many clips can be taken apart and introduced to the dog strap-by-strap. If your harness has to be put over the dog's head like a T-shirt, practice holding the harness up a few feet away from the dog's head and passing treats through the hole where their head will go. As your dog gets comfortable with the process, gradually get closer to the dog and have the treat closer to the harness opening so the dog has to investigate the inside of the harness.' What method is the best to measure your dog for a dog harness? What method is the best to measure your dog for a dog harness? 'Most reputable harness brands provide sizing guides that will require you to take physical measurements of your dog,' Mason said. 'Using a tailor's tape or a piece of string and a ruler will do the job.' 'Always make sure to check the manufacturer recommendations,' Belinsky said. 'Usually, the two things you'll measure are the circumference of your dog's neck and the circumference of your dog's chest at the widest point.' For this article, we consulted the following experts to gain their professional insights. Kirsten Belinsky, certified dog trainer and founder of Canine Athletics Training Center Matt Mason, animal trainer at the Duffield Institute for Animal Behavior in the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine CNN Underscored editors thoroughly test all the products we cover and provide full transparency about how we test them. We have an experienced team of writers and editors with several years of testing experience who ensure each article is carefully edited and products are properly vetted. We talk to top experts when it makes sense to ensure we are testing each product accurately and discussing each item's pros and cons. For this article, pet editor Kai Burkhardt put all 10 harnesses on his dogs. He ran each harness through a series of tests to assess comfort, support, ease of use, mobility and more.
CNET
2 hours ago
- CNET
I Wanted Maximum Visits at My Bird Feeder. A Wildlife Expert Gave Me These Tips
Taking time out of your busy day to sit and listen to the birds might sound hokey, but as a wellness writer and birdwatcher, I can tell you firsthand that it can transform your daily routine. Hanging out with the birds or listening to birdsong has real benefits like lowering stress, easing anxiety and even helping reduce symptoms of depression. It might not seem like much, but it's an easy way to slow down and connect with nature. Until recently, I lived in an apartment in the heart of a city. I had to actively seek out nature and the advantages of being surrounded by our avian friends. I now live in a house with a backyard and mature trees, where birds flit among the bushes and bounce along the fence line. I dove headfirst into my long-time dream of having an outdoor space with bird feeders, and I quickly realized I needed guidance on choosing the right feeder and where to place it. Tru Hubbard, urban wildlife education coordinator for the Nevada Department of Wildlife, came to the rescue with expert insight. From feeders and seeds to bird safety tips, here's everything you need to know about where to place and how to care for your bird feeder. Where is the best place to put your bird feeder? Location, location, location -- it's not just a term for real estate agents. Where and how you set up your bird feeder can affect the birds and other wildlife. The main points to consider when picking the best spot for your bird feeder are proper coverage and proximity to trees, distance from windows and height off the ground. Coverage and proximity to trees Birds prefer to feed in areas with some coverage, allowing them to quickly escape to nearby trees or bushes if needed. Placing your feeder near trees or shrubbery increases their protection from predators and offers shelter from inclement weather like rain or wind -- but they shouldn't be too close. The standard guideline is to put your feeder between 10 and 15 feet from bushes and trees. Hanging your feeder in a tree with easily accessible branches isn't advised. "We also want to reduce the ability of other animals to access the food, which is why sometimes hanging them in trees can be an invitation to our smaller mammals. Placing it about 10 feet away from any tree or structure squirrels or raccoons could use to jump off will help stop them from stealing food," said Hubbard. A bird feeder hung close to branches or structures can be an easy target for squirrels, raccoons and other placement can also reduce the likelihood of birds being stalked by neighborhood cats from the bushes. This is important to consider because feral and domestic cat predation is the primary driver of bird mortality in the US. Distance from windows "There are multiple factors to consider that can vary for each person and yard. Prioritizing the bird's safety should be number one; thus, avoiding spots that could increase the chance of bird strikes on windows should be at the top of the list," said Hubbard. There is a sweet spot regarding how far away your feeder should be from windows. One way to remember this is the Rule of 3 or 30, which suggests placing your bird feeder within 3 feet of a window or at least 30 feet away. If your feeder is less than three feet from a window, the chances of a bird getting injured are reduced since it won't be flying at high speed if it hits the window. The safest option is to position your feeder well away from windows to eliminate the risk of collisions entirely. "Ideally, a bird feeder should be placed more than 30 feet away from any windows, allowing plenty of time for them to navigate around potential hazards, or within a few feet of a home, which doesn't allow birds to gain enough speed to injure themselves if they do contact a window," explained Hubbard. The US Fish and Wildlife Service estimates that over one billion birds collide with glass and windows in the United States annually. If birds are colliding with your windows at home, check out these tips for keeping them safe. Shade versus sun "Hanging feeders in shaded areas is generally preferred because it will prevent food spoilage, provide some cover from the elements and keep birds out of the hot sun for a more comfortable feeding environment," explained Hubbard. In addition to keeping them cooler during the warmer summer months, a shaded location can help reduce sun glare and prevent confusion for the birds flying in your yard. The height of your bird feeder will also play a role in the type of bird you off the ground The height of your feeder will also impact the species of birds that will hang out there. Ground-feeding birds, such as sparrows and towhees, naturally prefer to eat lower, while others, like woodpeckers, feed higher in trees. "About five to six feet minimum is recommended due to other animals that will be trying to access the feed, including squirrels, raccoons and deer," said Hubbard. You can certainly install a bird feeder above that five-to-six-foot sweet spot, just keep in mind that positioning it too high can make it less convenient for cleaning and refilling. What type of bird feeder should you use? Bird feeders come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from trays and platforms to hoppers and tubes. Browsing the many options at my local plant nursery was a little overwhelming. I spoke with a knowledgeable employee who explained that when it comes to deciding on the type of feeder, it ultimately boils down to the bird you hope to attract. Hubbard echoed this sentiment. "Your bird feeder selection depends primarily on the species of bird you would like to feed. For instance, platform feeders tend to be better suited for larger songbirds like cardinals, while feeders with lots of little perches are better for small songbirds and can reduce competition for food. Things you can also consider are durability, how easy they are to clean and squirrel-proof features if you expect this to be an issue," Hubbard explained. Unless you're trying to attract one specific type of bird, providing a combination of different feeder styles and foods in your yard will attract the greatest variety. For more, here's a breakdown of the types of bird feeders and the birds they're best for. It was three days before I saw the first visitor to my platform feeder. Aly Lopez/CNET After installing my hanging tray feeder, the first visitor was a California scrub jay. This species can be rather competitive and aggressive with other birds, and is sometimes called a "bully bird," so I hoped it wouldn't hog the feeder. However, I'm pleased to report that many other birds have since been regularly stopping by the feeder, including chickadees, house finches, mourning doves and American robins. What should you feed the birds? Similar to the type of feeder, the food you put out will determine which birds (and other animals) will visit. "The type of birdseed used varies depending on what species you're hoping to attract to your backyard," Hubbard said, sharing research published by the National Audubon Society. Project Wildbird was an impressive study involving the observation of 1.2 million bird feeder visits to determine the top seed preferences of birds. The number-one choice? Black oil sunflower seeds. They're easy to crack open and provide a nutritious, high-oil snack, meaning less work and a greater reward. It's preferred by birds such as the black-capped chickadee, Cassin's finch, northern cardinal, house finch, tufted titmouse, red-breasted nuthatch and many more. The birding section at my local plant nursery displays signs showing which seed is best for attracting certain species of birds. Aly Lopez/CNET High-quality birdseed will increase the likelihood of birds flocking to your feeder. Cheap store-bought mixed bags often include fillers such as cracked corn and red milo. These low-quality alternatives to sunflower and other protein-rich seeds lack nutritional value, and birds often won't eat them. Smaller birds have a harder time eating these with their tiny beaks. An accumulation of leftovers can grow mold and attract unwanted wildlife or pests to your feeder, so it's best to avoid the cheap stuff at all costs. Mealworms and suet cakes are other great options for providing the birds with nutritious and energy-rich food. I chose a variety of birdseed mixes from Wild Birds Unlimited. Aly Lopez/CNET I opted for various birdseed mixes from the reputable brand Wild Birds Unlimited. The company offers an assortment of bird food ranging from suet cakes to high-quality seed blends. Large bulk bags of birdseed are available for purchase, but I chose to go with a few smaller bags first to see which is the most popular among the birds in my yard. Do not give them human food Avoid setting out human food or snacks to protect your wild bird visitors and their digestive health. Certain foods, including avocado, fruit seeds and pits, bread, milk, chocolate and foods high in sugar or salt, are toxic to birds. "We do not recommend feeding any wild bird human food. An unnatural diet doesn't provide the required nutrients that wild birds need to be healthy, and it can also result in behavioral changes, increases in illnesses and disease spread," explains Hubbard. Is it OK to have a bird feeder in your yard? Generally, having a bird feeder in your yard is fine, but it depends on your situation. While bird feeders attract various birds, they may also draw in other animals, such as mice, squirrels, raccoons, deer and bears. The presence of rodents near your bird feeder can attract predators like snakes, coyotes, hawks and owls to your space. "Some instances where it may be a good idea to remove your feeder, at least for the time being, are when you're made aware of high wildlife activity in your area, including animals such as bears or coyotes. These animals are attracted to almost any food source they can find, especially when they are easily accessible. Securing food sources can be an easy adjustment to help keep wildlife from developing a habit of visiting your yard," said Hubbard. If you live in bear country, it's important to secure any attractants when there are sightings in your area."If you don't want to remove the bird feeder completely, try removing it overnight when a lot of wildlife is most active, then place it back out in the morning. You can also try scattering some small amounts of birdseed in your yard during the day, which will be easy for birds to pick through but not worth it for our larger animals. Keep in mind that this may also attract smaller rodents to your yard, which could, in turn, attract predators. It is good practice to keep up with sightings in your area, and you can start by removing and securing the feeders at night," Hubbard emphasized. How often should you clean your bird feeder? "Generally, it is recommended that bird feeders be cleaned every other week or twice a month, but this frequency should be increased if sick birds or disease is suspected. Another option is to clean the feeder every time it is emptied," said Hubbard. The frequency also depends on the type of feeder and food involved, as well as the climate. For example, hummingbird feeders require more frequent cleanings (around every three to five days), as do feeders located in especially hot or humid weather. Most bird feeders can be cleaned by removing the old seed, taking them apart and placing them in a dishwasher on a hot setting or handwashing with soap or a diluted bleach solution. Properly rinse and thoroughly dry the bird feeder before refilling it with new seed. Cleaning the ground beneath your feeder is recommended to prevent the buildup of uneaten seed and bird waste. How long will it take for birds to find the feeder? I have two different types of feeders: a hanging tray and the Bird Buddy Smart Feeder. The latter has a classic hopper or house shape with a solar-powered roof for coverage and a camera for capturing photos and videos as they munch. I had to fend off disappointment when my little bird buddies didn't immediately swarm around the new feeders, but I learned it can take up to a few weeks before they'll interact with a new one. Birds are creatures of habit, and testing a new food source and landing pattern takes time. The first bird to visit my platform feeder took about three days. It took 12 days for a bird to land on the Bird Buddy feeder. I was jumping for joy when I received the notification from the Bird Buddy app that I had a visitor -- a cute mountain chickadee coming to check things out for the first time. This little mountain chickadee was the first to check out the Bird Buddy feeder 12 days after installing it. Bird Buddy/Aly Lopez/CNET Too long; didn't read? The most important thing to consider is the health and safety of the wild birds in your area. In addition to the placement of your bird feeder, the type of feeder and seed you use influence the species of birds that will visit -- as well as the presence of other animals and potential predators. I enjoy the gentle coo of the mourning doves that have been visiting my hanging tray, but they sure do leave a mess. Aly Lopez/CNET Ideally, you should position your bird feeder around 10 feet away from trees or shrubs to prevent squirrels from jumping onto it. It's best to keep your feeder at least 30 feet away from windows or glass to reduce the risk of collision, a leading cause of injury and death for birds. Use high-quality feed and avoid offering human food or snacks, as many are toxic to birds. If you live in an area where bears, coyotes or foxes are frequently spotted, securing your bird feeder and any other attractants is crucial to keep these animals safe and out of your yard. Additionally, cats pose another huge threat to bird populations. If you have a cat that roams outside, it's best not to use bird feeders in your yard to ensure the birds' safety and protection. Regular cleaning of your bird feeder is essential to prevent mold and bacteria growth, which can lead to the transmission of bird disease. As fun as it is to bring all the birds to your yard, being a responsible birder is key to ensuring the birds (and you) stay safe, healthy and happy. If you have questions regarding your birding journey, the National Audubon Society is an excellent resource for bird feeding and care. Your state's wildlife department is another fantastic source for inquiring about local guidelines and assistance. It's pretty simple -- the bird feeder and type of seed you set out will influence the birds that come to your yard. Ensuring their safety is the top priority.
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14 Things People Say When They're Picking A Fight On Purpose
Ever had someone just pick a fight out of the blue, and you're left wondering what sparked it? You're not alone. Sometimes people go on the offensive for reasons that have nothing to do with the actual trigger. Whether it's stress, unresolved issues, or plain old boredom, these conflicts can leave you feeling frustrated and confused. Let's break down some things people say when they're itching for a fight, and why these phrases might be more loaded than they appear. 1. "Why Are You Always Like This?" This phrase immediately puts you on the defensive. It suggests there's something fundamentally wrong with your behavior, even if you're just being yourself. Saying "always" implies a pattern, making you feel like you're in a rerun of a show you never wanted to watch. Dr. John Gottman, a relationship expert, notes that phrases like this can lead to defensiveness, one of the "Four Horsemen" that predict relationship breakdowns. It's not just an attack on your current action; it's a critique of your character, making you feel like you need to defend your very existence. Once you're cornered into defending yourself, the actual issue often gets lost in translation. The person who said it may not even care about what they're critiquing; they just want to pick a fight. It's a diversion tactic, shifting the focus from whatever the real problem might be. This can leave you feeling like you're trapped in a maze with no way out. Understanding the underlying intent can help you navigate these verbal landmines more effectively. 2. "You Never Listen To Me." This statement is a classic way to ignite a conflict. It's accusatory and sweeping, making you feel like you're inadequate. It forces you to reflect on every conversation you've ever had with this person, trying to pinpoint where you went wrong. The problem is that it doesn't offer specifics, leaving you guessing what the root issue might be. Without a clear example, it's tough to address the problem constructively, and you're both left spinning in circles. Feeling attacked, you might start listing all the times you did listen, which can escalate the situation. The conversation derails into a tit-for-tat, and the original concern is left unresolved. Often, the real issue isn't about listening at all; it's about feeling undervalued or ignored. Instead of engaging in defensive maneuvers, try asking them what they need from you. It can change the direction of the conversation into something more productive. 3. "You're So Sensitive." Being called sensitive can feel like a slap in the face, especially when you're just expressing your feelings. It delegitimizes your emotions, making them seem like an overreaction. Dr. Elaine Aron, who specializes in studying sensitivity, points out that sensitivity can be a strength, fostering empathy and deep connections. However, in a fight, this phrase aims to make you question your emotional responses, pushing you to react more strongly. It's a punch disguised as an observation, forcing you to justify your feelings rather than addressing the actual issue at hand. This tactic can make you feel isolated and misunderstood, as if your emotions are invalid. It's a diversion, intended to derail the conversation from the actual issue. Rather than diving into a debate over your sensitivity, steer the conversation back to the real topic. Question why your emotions are being brought into the argument in the first place. It's a way to regain control and shift the focus back to what truly matters. 4. "I Guess You Think You're Perfect." This is a loaded statement designed to provoke. It suggests arrogance on your part, even if that's far from the truth. By accusing you of thinking you're perfect, it puts you in a no-win situation. Any attempt to defend yourself can be twisted into further evidence of your alleged arrogance. It takes the focus off the issue and turns it into a personal attack, making it harder for you to engage constructively. Responding to this effectively requires a bit of finesse. Acknowledge that no one is perfect, including yourself. This can defuse the situation, showing that you're open to constructive dialogue. It redirects the conversation back to resolving the issue at hand rather than dwelling on personal shortcomings. Keeping the focus on problem-solving rather than personal attacks can help calm the storm. 5. "You Always Make Everything About You." This accusation can come out of nowhere, blindsiding you and putting you on the defensive. The word "always" is key here—it's another sweeping generalization that paints you as self-centered. Psychology professor Dr. Lisa Firestone suggests that such statements can stem from past grievances that haven't been aired properly. Instead of discussing specific instances, the accuser opts for a blanket statement that's hard to counter. It leaves you scrambling to prove your selflessness, all while the real issue goes untouched. The statement itself is often more about the accuser's feelings than any real pattern of behavior on your part. They might feel sidelined or neglected, making it less about your actions and more about their emotions. Rather than arguing over the accusation, focus on understanding their perspective. Ask what specifically made them feel this way and work from there. It shifts the dialogue from blame to understanding, which is far more productive. 6. "I'm Not The Problem Here." This phrase is a clear sign that the other person is not willing to take any responsibility. It immediately sets a confrontational tone, implying that all the blame lies with you. Even if there's shared responsibility, this statement dismisses any potential for a balanced conversation. It shuts down constructive dialogue and leaves you feeling cornered. When someone is unwilling to acknowledge their part, it becomes difficult to find a resolution. In this scenario, any attempt to discuss the real issue becomes sidetracked by personal defenses. The situation can quickly escalate into a blame game, with both parties talking past each other instead of to each other. Instead of getting sucked into this vortex, try to steer the conversation back to the issue at hand. Highlight the importance of both parties contributing to the solution. This can create a more balanced atmosphere where both of you can speak openly. 7. "Why Can't You Be More Like [Someone Else]?" Comparisons like this are a surefire way to spark conflict. It immediately makes you feel inadequate and undervalued, as if you're being measured against an impossible standard. Research from Dr. Brené Brown shows that comparisons can trigger feelings of shame and disconnection, making productive conversations difficult. By bringing someone else into the mix, the focus shifts from the current issue to your perceived shortcomings. It's not a fair fight; it's a rigged game where you're set up to lose. Instead of embracing the challenge, you may find yourself becoming defensive. This statement can make you dig in your heels, reinforcing the divide rather than bridging it. The key is to redirect the conversation away from comparisons and back to the real issue. Highlight your unique strengths and ask how they can contribute to resolving the problem. It's a way to bring the focus back to what matters, rather than who you're not. 8. "You're Overreacting." Being told that you're overreacting can feel invalidating, as it trivializes your emotions. It suggests that your feelings are out of proportion to the situation, making you question your judgment. The underlying message is that you're the problem, not the issue at hand. It's a dismissive tactic that can leave you feeling small and misunderstood. This phrase can shift the focus from the actual problem to your emotional state, complicating any attempt to resolve the issue. In response, you might feel the urge to defend your emotions, inadvertently escalating the conflict. The conversation shifts from the issue at hand to a debate over your emotional responses. This can make it difficult to address the original concern and find a resolution. Instead of engaging in this emotional tug-of-war, try to steer the conversation back to the facts. Focus on what can be done to address the real problem, rather than dwelling on emotional reactions. 9. "You Just Don't Get It." This statement is a conversation stopper. It immediately places you on the outside, suggesting you lack understanding or insight. It's a subtle way to suggest intellectual or emotional inferiority, leaving you with little room to maneuver. When someone says this, they're not just challenging your viewpoint; they're dismissing it entirely. It can feel like a dead end, making it hard to engage in any meaningful dialogue. The frustration is palpable, often making you feel defensive. Your natural response might be to demand clarification, but that rarely leads to constructive conversation. The key is to dig deeper and ask them to explain their perspective without getting defensive. Encourage them to share what you're supposedly missing, which can open up the lines of communication. It's a way to turn the confrontation into a learning opportunity, bridging the gap that "You just don't get it" creates. 10. "I Should Have Known Better." This phrase carries a heavy load of regret and accusation. It's essentially saying they wouldn't be in this mess if it weren't for you. It implies they've compromised by trusting you, and now they're paying the price. While it might seem like they're blaming themselves, the undercurrent is that you're the real culprit. It's a passive-aggressive way of holding you responsible for their disappointment or frustration. The weight of this statement can trigger a defensive response, leading to arguments rather than solutions. It can feel like you're being held accountable for someone else's choices, which isn't fair. Instead of accepting blame that isn't yours, encourage an open dialogue about what went wrong for both parties. Focusing on shared responsibility can help shift the conversation from blame to collaboration. It's about creating a space where both parties can express their perspectives and work towards a resolution. 11. "Whatever, Do What You Want." This phrase might seem like a nonchalant surrender, but it often carries an undercurrent of resentment. It's dismissive, indicating the person has given up on reaching a consensus. While it may sound like they're giving you freedom, it's more about relinquishing responsibility. The implication is that they've stopped trying to engage constructively, leaving you to navigate the situation alone. It's an emotional withdrawal that can feel more like punishment than freedom. Faced with this, your instinct might be to assert your independence, which can further distance you from the real issue. It shifts the dynamic from collaboration to autonomy, which can hinder resolution. Instead of letting the conversation end there, try to re-engage them in dialogue. Express that you value their input and would prefer to find a mutual solution. This can encourage them to re-enter the conversation and work towards a resolution together. 12. "You're Impossible To Deal With." This statement is a direct challenge to your character, suggesting you're inherently difficult. It closes down the conversation by implying that there's no point in trying to resolve the issue. When someone says this, they're not just critiquing your behavior; they're dismissing any chance of collaboration. It's a verbal shut door, indicating they see no value in further discussion. Such phrases can leave you feeling isolated and frustrated, as if there's no way forward. In response, you might feel the need to defend yourself, which can escalate the situation. The conversation moves from problem-solving to character defense, which isn't productive. Instead of accepting this characterization, focus on reopening the dialogue. Acknowledge their frustration and ask what can be done to make the situation more workable for both parties. It's about turning "impossible" into a challenge that both of you can tackle together. 13. "I'm Done Talking About This." When someone says they're done talking, it's a signal they're not interested in finding a solution. It's a way to shut down the conversation and exit the dialogue altogether. This phrase often masks deeper issues that haven't been addressed, leaving unresolved tension. It leaves you hanging, feeling like there's no way to move forward. Instead of closure, it creates a communication gap that can widen over time. Your first reaction might be to push for more dialogue, but that can lead to further resistance. The more you push, the more the other person might dig in their heels. Instead of trying to force a conversation, suggest revisiting the issue later when emotions have cooled. Give both parties the time to reflect and come back with a fresh perspective. It's about creating space for a more productive conversation down the line. 14. "This Is Pointless." Saying a conversation is pointless undercuts any effort to resolve the issue. It communicates a sense of hopelessness, implying that no solution exists. This phrase is often used to express frustration when someone feels unheard or misunderstood. Instead of encouraging collaboration, it puts a damper on efforts to work things out. It's a verbal endgame, suggesting that continued dialogue is a waste of time. When faced with this, you might feel disheartened and inclined to give up. The challenge is to find a way to reignite the conversation without dismissing their feelings of futility. Acknowledge their frustration and propose a change in approach to tackle the issue. This can open the door to creative problem-solving, turning "pointless" into an opportunity for new strategies. It's a way to breathe life back into a conversation that feels stalled. Solve the daily Crossword
