How to spend the perfect day in Dresden, Germany
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Dresden's mural-adorned courtyards, modern artworks and yellow trams combine to make it an enigmatic city break destination. The Saxon capital offers laidback restaurants, riverside cafes and buzzing nightlife districts, all set in the shadows of its stately baroque buildings.
Beat the crowds and tick off one of Dresden's biggest draws early, admiring the colonnaded courtyards, galleries and gardens of the Zwinger Palace, a masterpiece of baroque architecture built in the early 1700s by the Saxon ruler Augustus the Strong. Walk through the adjacent Theaterplatz, admiring the rebuilt Semperoper and Dresden Cathedral, then pop into Opera for a coffee and a hearty breakfast — the French toast is particularly good.
Make the short walk to the Old Town's Fürstenzug mural, the world's largest porcelain artwork, then step inside the Frauenkirche, the latest symbol of Dresden's architectural renewal. This Lutheran church, originally dating from the 18th century, was destroyed in the Second World War and rebuilt in 2005. It now stands as a pristine example of baroque architecture. Its gilded altar and pipe organ are impressive; there are organ demonstrations daily, as well as evening performances.
Near the Frauenkirche is the Albertinum, a contemporary art museum that houses work by Dresden artists such as Gerhard Richter, acclaimed as the Picasso of the 21st century. Less well known are the museum's collections of East German pieces by artists such as Karl-Heinz Adler, whose work was banned from display by the Communist government. For lunch, try the nearby Anna im Schloss, where East German comfort dishes like sossklopse (veal meatballs in caper sauce) are served within the Royal Palace.
Take a 20-minute stroll west of the Old Town, or jump on one of Dresden's yellow trams, to reach Kraftwerk Mitte, a cultural complex housed in a former power station. In the 19th century, this looming red-brick structure provided energy to the city, before falling into disuse — other than as a venue for illegal techno parties in the 1990s. Now it's home to cafes, restaurants and a number of theatres.
Continue your exploration of the vast Kraftwerk Mitte site with a matinee performance at Staatsoperette Dresden, which stages operettas and musicals. Then, head next door to the Puppentheatersammlung, which houses a range of puppets from across the world, including Saxony's long-standing puppet theatre tradition. In centuries past, puppetry was the means by which politics, fashion and satire were disseminated among ordinary people in Saxon towns and villages; the Puppentheatersammlung tells this story while staging topical puppet plays of its own.
Neustadt lies north of the Elbe River, a 20-minute walk or a short tram hop from Kraftwerk Mitte. This is Dresden's buzzing nightlife district and, despite the name, it's pretty old, much of it dating from the period after a fire ravaged the area in 1685. Modernity intrudes in striking ways, and nowhere more so than at the Museum of Military History, whose grand 1870s facade is ruptured by a steel-and-glass shard — a symbol of the fracturing nature of warfare.
One of Neustadt's finest restaurants is hip, laid-back Villandry, where a small menu promises quality, seasonal ingredients. Offerings change regularly, but can include beef tongue with cornbread, vegetable strudel and venison goulash. Traditional regional dishes like these are complemented by those from further afield, like Japanese soba bowls; the common theme that runs through the menu is a richness and heartiness, perfect for warming up with on those often chilly east German evenings. There's also a fantastic range of Saxon beers, and wines from the hills near Meissen.
Today, Neustadt harbours some of the city's artiest spots, such as Raskolnikoff, a bar, restaurant, hotel and art gallery housed in a listed 19th-century building. The property has been home to flats, an iron foundry and a dance hall over the years before becoming a squat for an art collective in the 1980s. Enjoy a drink or two and then head out to soak up the arty vibes of the Neustadt, making sure to check out the Kunsthofpassage, a series of courtyards adorned with colourful street murals.
Published in the June 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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Audley has a 15-day tour of China, which includes two nights in Chengdu, as well as time in Beijing, Xi'an, Guilin, Yangshuo and Shanghai. From £5,495 per person, including flights, transfers, B&B accommodation and excursions, such as the Lost Plate food tour. This story was created with the support of Audley. Published in the July/August 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In Rome, where every other restaurant promises a 'true' carbonara or 'classic' pizza, the pursuit of authenticity can feel elusive. Travellers often stay within the confines of the historical centre and rely on the greatest hits served in well-worn trattorias offering English-language menus. But do as the locals do and seek out culinary quality in Rome's quieter corners and you'll really get a flavour of the city. From contemporary trattorias to wine kiosks, here are nine of the best places to eat in Rome — trusted spots that locals return to time after time. Best for: classic dishes with modern flairSince opening in 2017, Santo Palato has carved out a reputation as one of the capital's most exciting trattorias — a place where Roman classics are revered alongside inventive dishes. 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Inside, just 16 guests get to try plenty of it, sitting at bar-height tables or at the counter, while a carefully curated collection of vinyl plays out softly. The restaurant's loyal regulars pop in to greet the young chef Mirko Pelosi at the bar before settling in for dinner. Pelosi's experiences in Europe's top Michelin-starred and avant-garde restaurants have been translated into a menu of inventive small plates and a natural-leaning wine list. While the dishes have a clear grounding in Italian cuisine, they do stray beyond its confines. A Japanese-inspired raw tuna dish, for example, sees sashimi slices draped over a vignerola — a Roman spring veggie stew — while a lamb ragu is accompanied by thick Middle Eastern grilled pitas. And don't miss the smoked bottarga (cured fish roe), which is sliced and topped with pickled raw almonds. Best for: cool ambianceFor many, Rome conjures images of rustic trattorias rather than the minimalist venues tipped for Michelin stars. But the latter is exactly the offering at this spot next to the Pantheon. Expect moody corridors and spotlit chefs working behind red, semi-translucent curtains in what is one of the city's most exciting kitchens. Here, the menu combines a few mainstays — including the oxtail terrine or green spaghetti — with additional specials taking in the likes of eel and black garlic risotto and a glorious artichoke katsu sando. With a list of more than 90 wines, all available by the glass and mostly Italian, but with a handful of international picks, the restaurant is a real draw for discerning drinkers. For a more relaxed setting, head to Retrovino, the venue's wine bar, tucked out the back. Sit at the counter or linger streetside, glass in hand — with dishes from the main restaurant also available to order there, too. Best for: a casual drinkLocated next to a faded funfair, Fischio is a kiosk-style bar popular for its laid-back atmosphere. Part pavement hangout, part neighbourhood secret, it serves some of the best coffee in the city, thanks in part to its recent hire: the star barista from nearby LOVE, a bakery renowned city-wide for its coffee and pastries. Come late afternoon, the mood at Fischio shifts to a la dolce vita vibe. With a tight, well thought-through wine list and a front-row view of local life drifting past, it's an ideal spot for a glass of sparkling natural wine and a bit of people-watching as the Roman evening sets in. Best for: slices of pizzaThere's no shortage of tourists lining up for pizza by the slice in Rome — and luckily, the city has more than enough quality spots to go round. Skip the queues at the famous Forno Roscioli, and head instead to Circo Massimo to try Fratelli Trecca's thinner, crispier, but equally satisfying slices, with standouts including the rossa con l'erbetta (marinara with parsley sauce) or the cipolle e cipolle, a white base topped with two types of thinly sliced onions, roasted until just shy of caramelised. Come the lunch or dinner rush, the menu expands to include classic Italian charcuterie toppings or other pizza specials like beef tongue with salsa verde or the rustic coppa di testa (pig's head brawn) with chicory. At €2.50 (£2) a slice, it's an affordable, flavour-packed bite that pairs nicely with a pint of the Puglian beer, Raffo, that's served on tap or a glass of natural wine. Best for: outdoor seatingOnce a humble, working-class neighbourhood, Pigneto has become the go-to for weekend drinks among young Romans seeking a break from the hurly-burly of more established areas like Trastevere. At its heart is Necci, a laid-back bar-cafe that's ideal for an al fresco aperitivo. In its gravel-strewn garden with walls draped in jasmine, Necci serves a solid wine list, house cocktails and a menu that blends Italian staples like bucatini all'amatriciana (a simple pork and tomato pasta dish) with international comfort food like chicken schnitzel and forest berry cheesecakes. On sunny Sundays, it's a welcome refuge for a slow brunch — cappuccinos sipped beneath its mature trees are paired with cornetti pastries oozing with apricot jam or pear and chocolate chip almond cakes. Best for: local cheeseJust at the entrance to the Jewish Quarter, this shrine to cheese is home to just few small tables facing a long glass counter stacked high with produce. There are golden shards of Parmigiano Reggiano, wheels of Alpine tommes and lesser-known regional treats including blu dolce di capra — a blue goat's cheese with a sweet creaminess and a tangy bite. Browse from a shelved wall of wine, with plenty of low-intervention varieties and ask the staff to put an accompanying cheeseboard together for you. Simply tell them how much cheese you're after — 200g, 300g or more — and they'll build a board with different options to suit your tastes, and your chosen wine. If looking for a souvenir to take home, a wedge of their well-aged pecorino Romano is the perfect choice. Best for: food market haulJust a few blocks north of the Vatican, at the city's largest and most exciting food market you'll find locals doing their shopping, rather than tourists seeking a photo op. This deeply Roman neighbourhood bazaar has stalls that generally sell ingredients rather than snacks — everything from neatly packaged handmade ravioli and tubs of fresh ricotta to ropes of plaited garlic strung above parades of picky shoppers. 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This Relais & Châteaux hotel, a few steps away from Piazza del Popolo, is housed in a renovated 17th-century building that was once an educational facility for orphaned girls. Rooms are decorated in colourful velvets and contemporary Italian furniture, while the hotel's public spaces carry modern artworks by the likes of Andy Warhol and sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. But the food offerings are the showstopper. The breakfast spread includes generous charcuterie — soft morsels of mortadella and indulgently fatty prosciutto — alongside a pastry table piled with Italian staples such as cream-filled maritozzi. San Baylon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant, helmed by chef Christian Spalvieri and featured in the Michelin Guide, offers a refined take on Italian cuisine with a focus on produce — including olive oil pressed from Palazzo Ripetta's own groves in the volcanic Alban Hills southeast of Rome. There's also the chance to dine in the hotel's lush garden piazzetta and enjoy an aperitivo with a view over Rome's homes and domes at the rooftop bar, Etere. Double rooms from €550 (£463) B&B. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
