I discovered the soul of Portugal in the sun-drenched Douro Valley wine region

Telegraph

26-05-2025

The first thing I notice is the stillness. As the Spirit of Chartwell, a regal ship once used by Queen Elizabeth II herself, slips under the arch of the Dom Luís I bridge and eases its way along the Douro River, the hustle and bustle of tourist-laden Porto fades into the distance.
The terraced hills of Porto are stacked in vibrant, weather-worn buildings that cascade towards the river's edge, but as we travel from the mouth of Douro towards its source in Spain, I'm surprised by how quickly the hillsides surrender to nature. Soon we are immersed in wilderness and a welcome peacefulness pervades.
As I bask in the bright sun on the top deck, glass of port in hand, I soak up the views of lichen-licked boulders ambling up from the shoreline and towering oak trees reaching skywards. Every so often the tumble of ancient ruins peek out from behind the emerald foliage, conjuring up dreams of running away to restore a home and start life anew.
The river asks nothing of me but pure relaxation and wonder. It's my first-ever river cruise, but already I've fallen happily into its slow and steady tempo. Life on a Douro River cruise is about taking things at a gentler pace, where long lunches, vineyard visits and jaunts to cultural sites on shore replace the rush of the every day. It's a chance to savour the simple pleasures of good wine, fine food and ever-changing views. And the best part? I only have to unpack once after stepping on board.
The meandering Douro River cuts its way through the fertile Douro Valley – one of Portugal's major wine-producing regions and the birthplace of port. In 2024, Portugal's wine industry celebrated one of its best years yet. At the same time, Portugal saw a substantial rise in tourism – the country welcomed a record 30 million visitors last year, generating €27 billion in revenue, with the UK representing the largest source of non-resident overnight stays.
The Douro River plays a key role in the country's thriving tourism sector, with a nearly 11 per cent increase in passenger numbers on river cruises year on year. Porto, the nearest major city to the Douro Valley, is also attracting more visitors than ever, recording 5.9 million overnight stays in 2023, up from 4.8 million in 2022, while 7 million are expected to descend on the city in 2025. Fortunately, not all at once.
I start my river sojourn in Porto, the gateway to the Douro Valley, by checking into the newly renovated Hospes Infantes Sagres. Opened in 1951 as the first five-star hotel in Porto, its halls have hosted luminaries from Bob Dylan to the Dalai Lama and Prince Edward. Now each of its 85 rooms and suites have been lovingly refurbished, along with its public spaces, such as the moody jewel box of a lobby that welcomes guests to sink down into velvet sofas in front of the gilded fireplace. Its restaurant, Scarlett, is a gastronomic gem serving local delicacies – and I swoon for the happy hour special of €1 oysters.
A newer hotel on the Porto scene also worthy of attention is Casa de Companhia, which opened in 2023. A hidden sanctuary within the buzzy heart of Porto, you'd nearly wander past its ornate doors if you didn't know it was there. Yet inside the light-filled courtyard, all is calm – a sensation that's only enhanced by a visit to the hotel's L'Occitane spa for a reviving massage, followed by some time in the indoor pool, sauna and steam room.
My room has an enviable view of the Porto Cathedral, which watches over the city from its hilltop perch. Porto's beguiling blend of architectural styles sees a collision of Baroque, neoclassical and modernist lines. Buildings bear outrageously tall doors and multi-coloured tiled facades – historically speaking, the finer the tiles, the bigger the bank account.
After a few days, I'm ready to trade the hum of the city for the hush of the river. Boarding the Spirit of Chartwell is like stepping back in time to the golden age of cruising. With gleaming joinery and art deco touches, the classic vessel has a bygone glamour befitting royalty, and photos adorning the walls pay homage to the ship's role in Queen Elizabeth II's Diamond Jubilee in 2012, when Her Majesty was joined on board by Prince Philip, King Charles and Queen Camilla.
Perfectly boutique in size, the ship only takes a maximum of 30 guests, providing a more intimate experience than larger ships that carry a hundred passengers or more. When we pass these relative behemoths on the river, all eyes are on the Spirit of Chartwell, and I can't help but feel a bit smug to be on such a classic beauty.
At the welcome cocktail the first evening, I sample a white port with tonic, a refreshing twist on a G&T. Dining aboard the Spirit of Chartwell is an immersive journey into the roots of Portuguese culinary tradition, from savoury stews to expertly cooked fish, and every night we are tempted by local wines and port to accompany dinner. I've never had a taste for port, but, as I learn, it's because most of us have been drinking it all wrong.
It's a wine that deserves better than being pulled off a dusty bar cart for special occasions. Once opened, port has a shelf life and should be consumed in between one and four weeks, depending on the variety – I shudder to think I've been drinking port past its best, and now, sipping a glass of smooth tawny liquid while taking in the view of the Portuguese countryside, I understand its appeal entirely.
In the morning, I wake up to a scene of green rolling by outside, the hillsides laden in emerald leaves and the jade of the jewel-toned river lapping against the porthole of my comfortable cabin. The scenery slowly transforms with quiet villages and vineyards coming into view. When we transit one of the river's five navigable locks, it's an event in itself, and guests clamour to the top deck to take in the spectacle.
Shore excursions are designed to immerse guests in the Douro Valley's rich cultural and gastronomic heritage. Highlights include a visit to Lamego, where I scale the 686 steps that lead up to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, passing grand fountains and tiled facades on my ascent. Standing guard over Lamego, the ornately adorned Baroque-style church has an almost mythical feel. We also step ashore for dinner and wine tasting at a traditional 'quinta' wine estate. At night, lively Portuguese folk musicians have us all dancing on board the ship.
For those who want to dip their toes into river cruising or get away for a long-weekend, the three-night cruise on the Spirit of Chartwell is just the ticket. On a longer five-night trip, occasions such as a formal captain's dinner and opening of a vintage port wine opening ceremony add a sense of pomp and circumstance to the voyage. Running April to August, the cruises take in the height of Portugal's warm summers. The Douro Valley is a sun-trap, often warmer than Porto, yet the gentle movement of the ship keeps you from feeling stifled by the heat.
The river has cast its spell on me, and as we make our way back to Porto I realise I'm not quite ready to leave it behind. Instead of rushing back to city life, I extend my stay with a visit to the Six Senses Douro Valley – a riverfront sanctuary nestled among lush gardens. Set within a beautifully restored 19th-century manor house, the hotel is cocooned by terraced vineyards and sun-dappled woodland, with views that spill across the river like a painting come to life.
With a thoughtfully curated menu of activities – from yoga and full moon fire rituals to wine tasting and cooking classes – days here are filled with as much or as little as you please. Mornings begin with the scent of citrus and lavender in the air and end with sunset-soaked glasses of tawny port, and plentiful forest walks, spa treatments and wine tastings at local quintas in between.
Drifting past vineyard-cloaked hills on the Spirit of Chartwell isn't just a holiday, it's a gentle unravelling. Here, the noise of the modern world falls away, replaced by the hush of water lapping against the hull, the rustle of wind through the trees, the ritual of pouring a ruby red glass of port. It's a place where time stretches, thoughts settle and the frantic pace of modern life feels blissfully far away. In this sun-drenched corner of Portugal, stillness isn't something you have to search for – it gently finds you.
Essentials
Douro Azul operates three- and five-night cruises on Spirit of Chartwell from April to August, with prices from £595pp.