Latest news with #vineyards
The Independent
3 days ago
- The Independent
When it comes to pinot noir, the only way is Essex (believe it or not)
If anyone asks me where I grew up, I generally answer 'perilously close to Essex'. Sleepovers in Chigwell, avoiding nightclubs in Epping, house parties in Theydon Bois (if you were wondering, it's pronounced boys). Needless to say, at the time, my wine drinking wasn't sophisticated, but who cares? I really did think Lambrini was pretty chic. But Essex is much maligned. It is, in fact, one of the country's most beautiful counties. It may not have rugged cliffs or craggy hills, but in its rural corners you'll find the landscape that inspired Constable, and on its easterly edges a soft, yielding coastline whose estuaries give way to the North Sea. And it's in this landscape that something remarkable is happening in English wine. The southern London counties have often claimed the headlines on wine: Kent and the Sussexes, I'm talking about you – and for good reason. But London's north-easterly neighbour is quietly gaining ground. In looking at my map of The Vineyards of England & Wales that was published in 1981, there were a total of fifteen vineyards mapped in Essex; there are now over fifty-five, with the highest density centred around the Crouch Valley, located to the south-east of Chelmsford. This area in the Crouch Valley is garnering quite a lot of attention for being a perfect site for creating still wines, especially pinot noir and chardonnay. It's a holy trinity of factors that make this area so special: its proximity to the Crouch river gives it protection from extreme frosts and cold winds, the moisture and nutrient-retaining rich, heavy clay soils, and last, but definitely not least, its wonderfully dry and sunny microclimate. This is one of the sunniest and warmest spots in the UK. The wider wine world is taking notice. It was a huge step when Jackson Family Wines (JFW), best known for their Kendall-Jackson label, announced in 2023 that they would be investing in and planting 27 hectares of vines in the Crouch Valley. JFW are a huge global wine player. Still entirely family owned, they are deeply passionate about sourcing the best sites for production, and have operations spanning the globe, including the US, Australia, France, Italy, Chile and South Africa. Just this week, it was announced that one of Burgundy's finest producers, Domaine Duroché, is creating a joint venture with Danbury Ridge vineyard. This relationship developed after Duroché tasted the 2021 pinot noir and was deeply impressed. But he's not the first Burgundian to note the potential of this area. Bernard Moreau et Fils, an outstanding producer of some of the world's finest chardonnays, now under the helm of fourth-generation Alex and Benoit Moreau, is working with Missing Gate Vineyard to produce a new chardonnay. While the wines are not cheap, you have to remember that land is at an absolute premium, and the intensity of the work that goes into making these wines is next level. They are completely worth their price tag, and offer great value for money for the wine in your glass, and, whisper it, offer better value than Burgundy at the same price, especially for the chardonnays. With such thrilling and dynamic wines being produced, it's time to finally banish the old tropes of this wonderful county – these winemakers don't see Essex as a joke. Furthermore, this Essex girl is proudly ordering a glass of chardonnay. Just make sure it's from Essex, please. Long-Player, Chardonnay, Crouch Valley, Gutter & Stars, Crouch Valley, UK, 2022 Available from Gutter & Stars, £33, 12 per cent ABV Made by one of the most exciting winemakers in the UK, Chris Wilkins, who can be found in his urban winery in Cambridge, this Essex chardonnay is upfront and unashamed in its initial tropical kick, and I love it! On the palate, the pineapple, passionfruit flavours are supported by bracing lemon citrus acidity, wafts of smoke and wooded vanilla spice. It's both generous and decadent, and I'm utterly seduced. Marbury Chardonnay, Crouch Valley, UK, 2023 Limited availability through St Swithins, £38, 12.5 per cent ABV This is Jackson Family Wine's first release from carefully sourced grapes neighbouring their vineyards. This has a delicate nose of lime blossom and lemon curd, which is supported by restrained flavours of white peach, swirls of vanilla cream and a beautiful saline edge. House on the Hill Chardonnay, Great Wheatley Vineyard, UK, 2023 Register interest to purchase on release (expected in the coming weeks) 12 per cent ABV Okay, so I appreciate that it's unconventional to recommend a yet-to-be-released wine, but I had the opportunity to taste Great Wheatley's chardonnay and was so impressed – it's too good not to share. It has an expressive nose of golden apples, tangy citrus and sweet vanilla, which is supported by a generous palate of toasted hazelnuts and salted caramel. There's mouth-watering acidity supporting this supple and generous wine – a stunning example of Essex's capability. Danbury Ridge Pinot Noir, Essex, UK, 2022 Available from The Wine Society, £39, 13.5 per cent ABV A wine to contradict any ideas about English reds being thin and watery. This is full of rich, ripe blackberries and concentrated black cherries, alongside a sweet cinnamon and smoky edge. It was a warm vintage in the UK, and you can certainly feel the Costa del Crouch sunshine in your glass. The Dark End of the Street, Pinot Noir, Gutter & Stars, Crouch Valley, UK, 2023 Available from Gutter & Stars, £33, 11 per cent ABV A restrained nose that is poised with amarena sour cherry and redcurrant, on the palate this reveals a more enigmatic profile of autumn leaves and black pepper spice alongside the concentrated sweeter red fruits.
Irish Times
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Irish Times
Celebrity wines worth trying: six of the best from Kylie and Brad Pitt to Sting and Gary Barlow
What do Sam Neill, John Malkovich and Francis Ford Coppola have in common? They have all had acclaimed film careers, of course, but did you know that each also owns vineyards and produces wine? Neill's venture is in New Zealand, Malkovich's in Provence and Coppola's in California, although the Godfather director recently sold some of these to fund the movie Megalopolis . With our obsession with celebrity, it is hardly surprising that rock stars, rappers, singers, actors, chefs, film directors, golfers, cricketers, soccer players and fashion designers have jumped on the bandwagon to offer a wine (or in some cases a collection of wines) or spirit adorned with their name. I stopped counting after 50 celebrities, so it must be profitable – and maybe it strokes few egos at the same time. I read Kylie Minogue has sold 17 million bottles of her wines. has a fairly comprehensive listing of available brands. Broadly, you can divide the category into two: the celebrities who simply slap a label bearing their name on to an existing wine, and those who get more involved. Some in the first category may take part in a blending exercise to create their unique wine, but that might be the extent of their involvement. If they are sufficiently well known, sales will rocket and a fortune on marketing will have been saved. The most successful names include Graham Norton and Kylie Minogue, both of whom sell a range of wines. Not all work as well; I was sent several rather mature vintages from some importers, suggesting sales are a little slow. However, most are well-made, easy-drinking, inexpensive fruity wines (often with a little residual sugar) that add a bit of fun to wine. Others are more serious in price; Jay-Z took over Armand de Brignac Champagne and turned it into one of the most sought-after bottles of fizz for many. The Gold Brut will set you back about $400 a bottle. READ MORE The latest celebrity to launch a wine is our own Amy Huberman, the actor and writer. Called Ah, (including the comma) the label has eye-catching imagery, and has a place to write messages and greetings. There are two wines, a sparkling rosé and a sauvignon , both from Spain. The Ah Cava rosé is pale in colour, refreshing with attractive raspberry and strawberry fruits and a dry finish. This is an enjoyable wine, not too sweet. The Ah sauvignon blanc is not like your average Marlborough version (Spain is not noted for its sauvignon) and may be a more difficult sell. It has light aromatics, lower acidity and plump peach fruits. It's a decent, well-made wine – fine if unexciting. [ Could I grow my own grapes and make my own wine? Opens in new window ] Some stars go all in by actually buying their own vineyard and winery. This has romantic appeal and also signals the celebrity has made it financially. It requires a significant investment in land and buildings as well as hiring good winemakers and viticulturists. Not surprisingly, these wines tend to be more expensive and available in limited quantities. The best-known is probably the Provence rosé Château Miraval started by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie in conjunction with quality Rhône wine producer Perrin. From the start it has been in huge demand. However, ownership has become mired in conflict as Pitt fights to hold on to the estate, Jolie having sold her share to the Stoli group. I include the very good (and less expensive) Studio by Miraval. For the first category, where the label is key, celebrity recognition transcends terroir. Following a poor harvest in Marlborough one year, the Graham Norton sauvignon was temporarily sourced from South Africa. Both Norton and Kylie wines are sourced from different countries, Norton offering Shiraz from Australia, Prosecco from Italy and Malbec from Argentina. His gin comes from west Cork. I tasted a dozen celebrity wines, mostly white or rosé from the likes of Brad Pitt, Gordon Ramsay, Sarah Jessica Parker and Gary Barlow. My favourites? Sam Neill's Two Paddocks wines from Central Otago in New Zealand are fantastic. Also, we have Sting, whose Tuscan estate Il Palagio produces a range of good wines, usually named after one of his songs. As mentioned, Miravel is pretty good too. Apparently Dolce & Gabbana are such big fans of the Sicilian winery Donnafugata that they pour its wines at all their shows. They decided to collaborate with special releases of three wines and the Tancredi (named for a character in epic Sicilian novel The Leopard) is very drinkable too. Of the less expensive wines, Kylie's wines showed very well, with good clean fruit, as did several Graham Norton wines. Given celebrity wine must be sold at a premium in order to give the celebrity a share of the profits, they are unlikely to be bargains. But most of these were selling at €10-€15 and offered reasonable value for money. Six celebrity wines worth trying Kylie Minogue Rosé 2024 Terres du Midi Kylie Minogue Rosé 2024 Terres du Midi €10-€12 Fragrant fresh ripe summer fruits with a nicely rounded finish. Great summer drinking. Gary Barlow Sauvignon Blanc western Cape 2023 Gary Barlow Sauvignon Blanc western Cape 2023 €13-€15 Explodes with gooseberry and lime zest aromas; vibrant green fruits with a crisp dry finish. When We Dance 2018, Chianti, Tenuta Il Palagio When We Dance 2018, Chianti, Tenuta Il Palagio €22.50 Elegant dark cherries with a spicy touch and well-integrated tannins. Very stylish wine. Studio by Miraval Rosé 2024 IGP Meditérranée Studio by Miraval Rosé 2024 IGP Meditérranée €24.95 A very refined wine with fresh piquant wild strawberries, stone fruits and a good refreshing acidic streak. Two Paddocks Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand Two Paddocks Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand €30 Delicious complex pinot noir with ripe blackberries and cherries, underpinned by subtle toasty oak. Donnafugata Dolce & Gabbana Tancredi 2020, Terre Siciliane Donnafugata Dolce & Gabbana Tancredi 2020, Terre Siciliane €63.95 Smooth tobacco and dark chocolate with forest fruits and a spicy dry finish.
Times
5 days ago
- Times
16 of the best vineyard hotels in Tuscany
With its rolling vineyards, ochre hills and medieval towns, Tuscany embodies that picture-perfect vision of Italy that keeps on seducing the world. In recent years, the region has seen a rise in wine resorts: elegant estates that combine immersive hospitality, bold architecture and sustainable viticulture. Think biodynamic vineyards at your doorstep, cypress trees framing infinity pools, and cellar-to-table dinners under vaulted stone ceilings, paired with Super Tuscans or Chianti Classico. From historic castles to sleek eco-retreats, these estates offer a full-bodied experience of the Tuscan dolce vita — with a generous pour of terroir, tradition and taste. Cin cin. • Best for value Castello di Fonterutoli• Best for luxury Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco• Best for green stays Borgo Pignano • Best for couples Castello di Vicarello • Best for foodies L'Andana• Best for families Castello di Meleto This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue £££ | POOL | Best for organic luxe When Sarah di San Bonifacio left Goldman Sachs in London to plant seven hectares of organic vines in the Tuscan Maremma, her intention was not to create a wine resort with her husband, Manfredo, but rather a place she and her family could 'spiritually detox'. Twenty-odd years later, they have a couple of award-winning Super Tuscans — Docet and Sustinet IGT — to their name, a seven-suite hilltop retreat of impeccable chic (vintage leather chairs, four-poster beds and Asian antiques predominate), and an array of activities to calm even frazzled City types. Private yoga, meditation, ayurvedic massage, mountain biking and truffle hunting are all on the (ethical, sustainable) menu.££ | POOL | Best for local flavour This 16th-century patrician villa — the rural residence of a Florentine merchant — deep in Chianti country has lately become not just a culinary destination, but also the progenitor of an excellent cooking school. David Gardner and Catherine Storrar were restaurateurs before deciding to restore the derelict Villa Bordoni and create a boutique hotel (the vineyard, Tenuta di Monte-Ficali, came later). Rustic in style, the cosy bedrooms are big on texture — Baldacchino bed canopies, velvet drapes — as well as charm: ask for the sweet Cappella, in the former chapel. The restaurant, in the original villa kitchens, is gourmet without the fuss: seasonal standouts include an epic bistecca alla Fiorentina and a fine chitarra with a Tuscan ragù. • Read our full guide to Italy ££ | POOL | Best for the light touch Dievole has been making wine since the year 1090, on and off; today, it has 16 working vineyards across 80 hectares north of Siena. Its latest project, the transformation of an 18th-century hamlet into a luxe wine estate, is, in design terms, an unqualified success. Architect Carlos Hartmann has reimagined Dievole as a creamy dreamscape: ceilings are whitewashed, floors are stone, bathrooms marble, and furnishings and linens the lightest shades of pale. Pops of colour come from the Medici-style still-lifes on the wall. Ristorante Novecento is already making waves, with a menu that majors on seasonal fruit and veg, local cheeses and meats — and, of course, Dievole's award-winning olive oil. £££ | SPA | POOL | Best for all-out luxury In the heart of the Unesco world heritage site of Val d'Orcia, Castiglion del Bosco might be a 5,000-acre working estate producing Tuscan wines of note but, more importantly, it's also a drop-dead-gorgeous luxury resort. This 900-year-old borgo has been tweaked to World of Interiors standards while retaining a deep sense of place: the 42 suites and 11 villas in restored farm buildings are a model of rustic opulence. Its executive chef creates delicious menus with a focus on terroir, the spa has a luxe line in treatments — and the vines yield 250,000 bottles of Brunello di Montalcino each year.£ | POOL | Best for living like a local There's a lovely, low-key feel to this medieval village at the heart of the Mazzeis' chianti classico estate, with 16 simple rooms and suites, plus four traditional apartments, renovated for guests, with vaulted ceilings, terracotta floors, family antiques and spectacular views. They've been making wine here for 24 generations — now they're turning their attention to hospitality, allowing you to live like a local with the added perks of tours and tastings, cooking classes and horse riding on offer. The Osteria offers heritage dishes made with seasonal local produce, focusing on wild game from the estate.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for a summer residence The Tuscan Maremma is still one of the best-kept seaside secrets outside Italy. Just a ten-minute drive to the coast, rural L'Andana is perfectly placed to enjoy the yacht-club glamour — but run for the hills when the heat is on. La Villa, a former Medici residence where Grand Duke Leopold II summered with his court, has 33 rooms in the main villa, 14 in La Casa, ten at Il Granaio, which can be converted into five two-bedroom apartments, and a four-bedroom private villa with its own swimming pool. They have been reimagined by starchitect Ettore Mocchetti, former editor of AD Italy, to create the kind of refined boho style loved by the cool international crowd. Acquagiusta wines, an Espa spa and the Michelin-starred Trattoria Enrico Bartolini all add up to a super Tuscan experience. • Read our full review of L'Andana £ | POOL | Best for blessed peace This ancient Benedictine abbey has a long history of viticulture: a recent archaeological dig unearthed Romano-Etruscan grape seeds more than 2,000 years old. Today Badia a Coltibuono has four simple apartments and a handful of rooms (formerly the monks' quarters) in perfect isolation in the Chianti hills. Up here, time stands still — and you can, too. Rest in the shady cloisters, picnic among the vines, and explore the ancient cantinas. Tasting highlights in the wine library include a mellow vin santo; and don't miss the excellent organic olive oil. • Best hotels in Tuscany• Best things to do in Tuscany££ | SPA | POOL | Best for total immersion When Ferruccio Ferragamo, one-time chairman of the Ferragamo fashion house, took over Il Borro, he described it as a 'timeless act of faith'. There's a sense of total immersion when you pass through the gates of this restored medieval village, a 12th-century stronghold in the upper Valdarno that maintains a strong sense of historical authenticity — albeit sprinkled with Ferragamo fairydust. The style is country chic — natural materials, neutral tones and solid antiques — throughout the 58 suites and three villas. Along with wine tasting, Il Borro offers courses in shoe-making and jewellery-making; the Vino & Arte gallery has a collection that includes Picasso, Rembrandt and Warhol.£ | POOL | Best for boutique bacchanalia With just five rooms, this has to be one of Tuscany's tiniest wine resorts, but three metres beneath the 16th-century villa is a vast nerve centre: a labyrinth of cantinas, tasting rooms and wine libraries carved into the rock. Since 1975, when the estate produced its first label, Capannelle's ascent has been stratospheric. Above ground, all is peaceful in the elegant gardens, sprawling vineyards and patchwork olive groves. The four bedrooms and one suite are solidly trad — oak-beamed ceilings, tile floors, chintzy furnishings and wrought-iron chandeliers — while the farmhouse breakfasts of home-cured prosciutto, salami, cheese and pastries are epic.££ | SPA | POOL | Best for soaking up nature Borgo Scopeto is a world unto itself. There's pretty much nothing this wine relais in a pristine 14th-century village north of Siena does not do. Its own line of cosmetics? Check. Beekeeping? Check. Organic vegetables? Check. And of course a range that includes chianti classico, vin santo, grappa and olive oil. Fifty or so rooms are scattered between neatly restored buildings, surrounded by manicured lawns, tennis courts, swimming pools and a spa. Staff can organise not just the usual biking, hiking and riding but go-karting, Nordic walking and vintage car hire too.£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for Tuscany and beyond Lost in the Maremma, Castello di Vicarello is an extraordinary place: a 12th-century stronghold that might look like it has leapt from the pages of a fairytale, but inside is a contemporary tastemaker's dream. Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi Berti worked in fashion, textiles and furniture before bringing their style to bear on what was a crumbling wreck. The ten gorgeous suites are a mix of Indonesian day beds, 1920s Florentine club chairs, eastern art and Persian carpets. Suite Chiesina, with its shaded pergola, is our favourite. The wines of Carlo and his son Brando are gently making waves, while spa treatments showcase the garden's herbs and flowers.££ | POOL | Best for female forces Though the Folonari wine estates bear the name of father and son Ambrogio and Giovanni, it's the women who are the driving force behind this Greve relais de charme. Mamma Giovanna, with the help of daughters Francesca and Angelica, has transformed the borgo's golden-stone farm buildings into a contemporary 11-room retreat with a rustic edge. Rooms are large and light: whitewashed beams and ivory linens add a sense of refinement, while furniture and artworks are sourced from Tuscan brocantes. This is an oenophile's dream: spend lazy days tasting eight generations of winemaking experience across the family's six estates.££ | POOL | Best for style surprises It might look like a typical Tuscan farmhouse from the outside, but step through the door of the splendidly named Poggio Piglia, midway between Siena and Assisi, for sophisticated surprises. Traditional wooden beams and exposed stone are offset by Philippe Starck furniture, funky lights and contemporary art installations, with whirlpool tubs and four-poster beds in the best of the nine rooms — the result of seven years of work by the Marzeglia family and architect Barbara Spanò. Sample the estate sangiovese and olive oil in the onsite restaurant.£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for super-sustainability An organic oasis 45 minutes from Siena, the Borgo Pignano estate was brought back to life over 20 careful years by Welsh philanthropist Michael Moritz and his wife, Harriet Heyman. It has flourished, becoming a boutique hotel with a collection of simply furnished rooms and apartments — family antiques, faded frescoes, traditional textiles and canopy beds prevail — a pair of restaurants (including the Michelin green-starred Villa Pignano), and two swimming pools. But it is the 750 acres of sustainably farmed land of which they are perhaps proudest — and the vines that are now bearing fruit, producing new wines including an excellent Rosso del Guardia red. Read our full review of Borgo Pignano£ | POOL | Best for family fun Choose from family-sized apartments in the borgo or one of the romantic rooms in this fairytale castle with its roots in the 13th century. It's a laid-back kind of place with a storybook feel. Child-friendly activities on offer include visits to the bee park and guided cycle rides around Gaiole. Adults can tour the estate in a 4×4 with the resident agronomist, learn to blend their own wine or take yoga classes in the open air. Life feels very simple here: enjoy it.£££ | Best for world-class art Art can be an afterthought even in Italy's finest hotels. At Lorenza Sebasti's Castello di Ama, a hilltop hamlet outside Gaiole, installations by some of the greatest contemporary practitioners — Anish Kapoor, Louise Bourgeois, Daniel Buren — are front and centre, along with a world-class chianti classico by winemaker Marco Pallanti. Stay in one of five antique-filled suites in the 18th-century Villa Ricucci, eat on the balcony of the neighbouring Villa Pianigiani and follow the extraordinary art trail, masterminded by San Gimignano's Galleria Continua, winding in and out of the estate's 200-acre vineyard, down to the wine cellars and into the ancient • Best vineyard hotels to visit in France• Best Napa Valley vineyards Have we missed any? Let us know in the comments
Times
5 days ago
- Times
Why we're still in love with French wines
French wine has always been popular on these shores and we are prepared to pay a lot more for it — upwards of £9 a bottle. Compare that to the pathetic average we pay for a bottle of Italy's best, just £6.53, while Australia's not much better at £6.62. It's all down to centuries of French natural selection: planting the right grapes in the right patch of dirt on the right slope and then, care of endless trial and error, vinifying the results to get the very best from the vines. It's this sacred notion of terroir, or sense of place, enshrined in the appellation laws of France, that has kept the country ahead of its competitors. The familiarity our nearest wine-producing neighbour's wines, styles and grapes is another big draw. At the top end, most wine drinkers know what they can expect from the classic French regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône. Indeed, with more great wines made in France than anywhere else in the world, there will always be drinkers for whom no other country's wines will do. Equally, down at the everyday drinking level, most of us know what a simple yet sparky French sauvignon should taste like, or a plump Gallic merlot, or citrussy chardonnay. Alongside rejuvenating old vineyards and planting new ones, a more polished, restrained yet experimental era of French wines has begun, still with flavour but with oak used as seasoning, rather than centre stage, adding up to the sort of understated Gallic elegance that makes you want to not just reach for a second glass but drain the whole bottle. • Read more reviews from our wine experts Given the variety and diversity of today's French wines, it would take several lifetimes to taste the lot and, frankly, you'd never get bored. Of all the French wine styles in vogue, it's sales of crémant, the next best thing to champagne, that are rocketing. Crémant de Limoux from the Languedoc makes an intriguing change to those of Burgundy and the Loire. Helpfully, Waitrose has knocked £4 off its Cremant de Limoux, Cuvée Royale. Now £10, it's a bold, fresh brown bread-scented chardonnay-led version that needs to be served cold, is best drunk with food and will still be too punchy for some. From the other end of the country, the Loire's delicious, crunchy, red berry-fruited cabernet francs make perfect chilled reds. Nab the 2023 Lulu l'Alouette Chinon, a herby, organic, red berry charmer from Majestic at £13.50 a bottle. It's Burgundy, though, where ancient and modern Gallic expertise shines. Take your pick from the rich, nutty yet minerally charge of Asda's classy 2023 Brocard Premier Cru Chablis (£22.92) and the smoky, mature, truffle elegance of Domaine Lécheneaut's 2021 Côtes de Nuits Villages, Le Clos de Magny ( £35). • 2025 wine trends: swap pricey classics for unusual finds 2023 La Chevalière Syrah, Patrick Jasmin, France12 per cent, £19.95This seriously good Collines Rhodaniennes syrah punches well above its weight with lavender and tangy red cherry. 2022 Santenay 1er Beauregard, Fornerot, France13.5 per cent, £32Jérôme Fornerot's white St Aubin rocks but this leafy, floral star shows he makes tasty red burgundy too. 2023 Finest Chablis, France12.5 per cent, Tesco, £15Nowt beats this lively, steely, saline-edged La Chablisienne co-op chablis with seafood — try it. Crémant de Loire Rosé, France12 per cent, Asda, £9.36Can't afford champagne? Plump for a pretty, blush pink, rose petal-scented cabernet franc crémant instead. • The best summer wines — the critic's picks from £5 2023 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Orange, US11.5 per cent, Tesco, £13 down from £15.25More than £2 cheaper than it was last month, this strong, smoky, tea-leaf orange wine loves big food. 2024 Irresistible Assyrtiko, Greece13 per cent, Co-op, £9 down from £10Plumped up with a dab of viognier, dive into this seductive, dry, summery, samphire and basil-licked assyrtiko. 2024 Deluxe South African Fairtrade Chenin Blanc13.5 per cent, Lidl, £6.99One of the best whites on show at a recent Lidl tasting, with delicious, buttery chenin fruit and a tickle of spice. 2024 Found Marzemino, Italy11.5 per cent, Marks & Spencer, £8Unoaked, ripe, yet earthy, red, made exclusively from the marzemino grape, with easy-drinking, plummy fruit.
Forbes
6 days ago
- Business
- Forbes
Chilean Wine Producers Look To Sustainability
Vineyards at Vermonte Estate, Casablanca Valley, ChileThe business side of wine takes into account much more than successful reviews from wine critics; after all, those notices are too often temporary. Above all, a wine company or companies have to communicate messages to every sector of their audience, from casual drinkers to veteran wine lovers. While quality is certainly an important implication, tastes differ, which could render the term quality somewhat lacking among the public. Rather, a stronger declaration is the notion that producers are doing something that everyone can agree upon; treating their land and people in a sustainable way is undoubtedly an approach that the majority of consumers find beneficial, and perhaps more to the point, a methodology that assures that their work is based on taking care of the planet and society. Eighteen years ago, Chilean wine producers decided to prioritize sustainability, making it one of their key strategic pillars. In 2007 in the Colchagua Valley, the idea of working on a sustainability standard arose and was later consolidated as a public-private national project thanks to the work of the technological Consortium of Vinos de Chile. In 2011, this trade organization launched the Industry Sustainability Code certification, with a solid technical base and important promotional work. 'This Code was groundbreaking in the global wine industry due to its formal structure, its industry-wide nature, and its cross-ground approach," states Julio Alonso, executive director of Wines of Chile in North America, which is part of the international area of Vinos de Chile. 'This voluntary standard is a guide for our members on the challenges of working sustainably, based on requirements in three complementary areas: vineyards, process, and social.' He adds, 'The only way we make premium wines of excellence is by taking care of and protecting our land and people. Today, there are 90 certified wineries, representing 80% of bottled wine exports.' Below, are details of some relevant topic of the Sustainability Code of Vinos de Chile:1. Renewable energy production: The Sustainability Code emphasizes the use of energy in a sustainable manner to minimize the carbon footprint. Using non-conventional renewable energy sources (NCREs) is an effective tool for achieving this. Actions include purchasing non-conventional renewable energy (through Power Purchase Agreements (PPA) or I-RECs, Inter-Renewable Energy Certificates), self-generation of renewable energy (e.g., photovoltaic panels, and others), energy efficiency (both in fuel and electricity use), and decarbonization of the energy matrix (in line with the Chilean government's plans).2. Water use reduction: 'We promote the reduction of water use, when possible, its efficient management, and the implementation of measures to prevent its contamination, contributing to the sustainability of this critical natural resource,' Alonso remarks. Wineries certified under the Sustainability Code must maintain an indicator of water use. Two recent projects have been carried out to promote efficient water use. Based on the results of ongoing research projects, reductions of around 18% are expected over the next five years. This is especially important, considering the strategic role of this natural resource for the development of viticulture and agriculture in general in our country.3. Sustainability, a broad concept: 'Sustainability is one of the strategic pillars of Vinos de Chile and has always been considered under this umbrella, other systems such as Organic, Biodynamic and recently Regenerative Agriculture, as well as other systems for managing social and governance aspects in wine companies," comments Mario Pablo Silva, President of the R&D Consortium Vinos de Chile. According to Alonso, Chile has a planted area of 306,410 acres, of which 14,272 acres are organic or biodynamic vineyards, representing 4.7% of the total planted area. Organic agriculture is a niche activity in the country; however, wine grape production is a highly relevant sector within that segment. The acres under the scope of wineries certified by the Sustainability Code amount to 128,495 acres owned by the wineries, and approximately 69,189 acres of grape producers managed through the wineries' internal management systems.124 year-old Cabernet Franc vines from Valdivieso in the Sagrada Familia Valley4. Carbon footprint reduction: On this subject, Mario Pablo Silva, says 'Chile has committed to achieving carbon neutrality by 2050, a goal shared by both the public and private sectors, as well as various industry associations. We support this objective, and wineries are actively working toward it.' A study conducted between 2019 and 2022, using the Science Based Target methodology and aligned with the GHG Protocol, determined an average total carbon footprint value of 2.53 kilos (5.6 lb) of equivalent CO₂ per 1 liter (0.26 gallons) of wine (according to the SBTi methodology) for a sample of 18 wineries (representing 60% of bottled wine exports). 'These values are highly competitive compared to other international initiatives aimed at measuring and reducing the carbon footprint in the global wine sector. We hope to reduce this measure over the next two decades to contribute to the sustainability of our wines', Silva added.5. Recyclable packaging: Sustainable packaging is promoted to minimize environmental impact throughout its life cycle. The main goal is to reduce waste generation, natural resource consumption, and environmental pollution, while maximizing efficiency and the reuse of materials. Certified wineries have set goals for incorporating packaging made with recycled materials, reused components, and/or certified sustainable materials. In addition, companies must comply with the Extended Producer Responsibility Law (REP Law) for packaging and containers. This represents a concrete commitment to organizing and financing the management of packaging waste. It includes actions from sourcing packaging materials to eco-design, production, use, collection, and recycling.6. Social and community projects: All certified companies, which, as mentioned above, represent a significant percentage of our bottled wine exports, have implemented ongoing initiatives related to the development of their local communities in addition to other social initiatives aimed at improving working conditions and the well-being of their employees. All wineries have a Code of Ethics and fully adhere to the human rights chapter, which encompasses aspects such as gender equality, treatment, and the well-being of all workers. 'The social aspect is quite comprehensive, and the Code has earned various recognitions due to the holistic nature of its requirements. The social requirements include working with the community, employees, suppliers, and other stakeholders,' Alonso states. Old Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Viña Montes vineyard in the Apalta Valley7. Biodiversity: The wineries certified under the Sustainability Code have initiatives to protect biodiversity within their vineyards and in the adjacent non-productive areas of their properties. Currently, this non-productive land accounts for approximately 99,000 acres (almost seven times the size of Manhattan) dedicated to biodiversity conservation. Chile is one of the five zones around the world that have a Mediterranean ecosystem, which is favorable to vines due to its temperate climate. Even though these ecosystems cover only 2.25% of the Earth's land surface, they are home to 16% of the world's plant species. 'The Chilean Mediterranean ecosystem is home to most of the country's wine industry and is globally recognized for its high biological value. These central Chilean ecosystems contain over 50% of Chile's native flora and vertebrates,' Silva explains. Given this, it is particularly significant that a large portion of this area consists of Mediterranean sclerophyllous forest. Efforts to enhance vineyard biodiversity continue through soil regeneration, soil protection using cover crops, and the expansion of island zones and biological corridors. 'The findings indicate that wineries have considerable potential to conserve the Mediterranean ecosystems of central Chile, as they encompass a substantial area of native ecosystems,' Silva have to give credit to the member producers and growers for this initiative, one that promises better wines while guaranteeing the planet becomes a healthier place.
