How to Wash Your Hair

New York Times

31-01-2025

Don't I know how to do this already? you might be asking. But while washing your hair might seem straightforward, a truly effective cleanse requires some thought and expertise. Just like the skin on our faces, each person's scalp, and the hair that grows out of it, is different. Using the wrong products for your hair type can lead to oily roots, flaky skin and lackluster strands. What's more, our hair's needs can shift daily, so the best routine is one that's both personalized and flexible. Here's how to tailor your approach to achieve clean, healthy tresses.
1. Pay attention to your scalp
A good routine begins before you get in the shower, with a scalp massage. Massages can lift excess oil, product residue and dead skin cells from the scalp and roots, making them easier to wash away, while also stimulating blood circulation, which some studies have shown may help promote hair growth. A massage can also help you assess how seasonal factors such as dry air and fluctuating temperatures are affecting your hair.
2. Do a dry detangle
'Hair can stretch 50 percent longer when it's wet,' says Jhavuanna Paterson, the owner of the New York salon October Glory, so if you leave all of your detangling until during or after your shower, 'you could be stretching your strands out of shape,' a particular risk for those with curly patterns. Plus, wet hair of all textures is more breakage-prone, so detangling your hair before you wet it is a good way to avoid damage (though you can do a second, gentle round in the shower).
3. Shampoo strategically
Most people should have a clarifying shampoo in their hair-care arsenal, even if they use it only occasionally, to give the roots a deep clean. Mara Roszak, the owner of Mare Salon and the product line Roz Haircare, prefers a gel shampoo, such as her own line's Foundation Shampoo, noting that she finds that thicker, creamier formulas aren't as effective in removing buildup and heavy oils. California Naturals Daily Shampoo is another good, coconut-based gel option. You can use these types of cleansers every wash day but if you have specific hair concerns, try using it in rotation with one of the targeted formulas below:
It should take you about 60 seconds to fully lather shampoo into the scalp, using the same allover technique you used for your massage: circular motions from front to back, then side to side, paying special attention to the back of the head and nape of the neck. The focus here should be on the scalp — the rest of the hair will be cleaned as the suds run down the strands, says Roszak. Rinse, then wash again if you have a large amount of buildup.
4. Don't rush the conditioner
The purpose of a conditioner is to smooth and flatten the hair cuticle, the outermost layer of the strand, making it softer and more manageable. Those with fine hair and those using very moisturizing shampoos might be able to skip this step, but the hairstylist and educator Terri Starr, who owns Starr Studios, says that many people do need to use a conditioner, 'to fill or reconstruct [their] hair cuticles' and to combat dryness and split ends. Here, too, your hair texture should guide your approach.
After rinsing out your shampoo, squeeze the excess water from your hair and apply your conditioner, targeting the strands, rather than the roots. Run a wide-tooth comb through your hair to evenly distribute the product and to work through any remaining knots. If your hair is particularly thick, you can first section it into smaller parts with clips. Starr says that five minutes is typically sufficient time for a conditioner to penetrate. Then spend a minute or so rinsing it out. 'When you're rinsing, run your hands through your roots a few times, gently massaging to make sure any flakes are removed and washed away,' says Kingsley. For this step, Starr recommends using cold water. 'It seals the cuticle, makes the hair a lot shinier and helps with the frizz of the hair,' she says.
5. Deep-treat if necessary
De Oleo suggests that those with dyed, processed or very dry hair supplement their regular routine with a deep conditioner. Hair that's been exposed to dry air, heat tools or salt water can also benefit. De Oleo recommends Not Your Mother's Matcha Green Tea and Wild Apple Blossom Butter Masque. Ceremonia's Mascarilla De Babassu is another effective choice, made for all hair types. Both masks can replace conditioners and be applied in the same way, on a weekly basis or as needed — though they're typically left on for an hour or even several. Protein or 'bond-repair' treatments, meanwhile, such as Amika's The Kure mask, can help restore strength to breakage-prone hair. But moderation is key: Too much protein can lead to more breakage, by making the strands brittle, so if you use a protein treatment one week, try a deep conditioner the next.
6. Dry carefully
Because wet hair is easily damaged, dry it gently: Microfiber towels, such as Well Tressed's Twist & Tie options, are quick-absorbing and soft, but an old cotton T-shirt is a cheap and easy substitute. Those with thick or curly hair can also use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment; set it to a low temperature to help maintain the hair's natural pattern. Conair's 1875 Watt Turbo Hairdryer is affordable and durable. Finally, to retain all the moisture you've just added back into your hair, try sleeping with a pillowcase or bonnet made from silk or satin; these materials don't absorb oil as quickly as cotton and will reduce friction on the hair cuticle, keeping your strands glossy and tangle-free.
F.A.Q.s
The ideal frequency depends on your hair type and lifestyle. Cleansing and conditioning can be anything from a daily to a weekly event. If you're exercising or sweating a lot, or if you have straight hair that's prone to becoming oily, err on the side of washing every day or every couple of days. Curlier hair tends to fare better with once-weekly washes — as does hair that's exposed to a dry, cold climate, so you may want to adjust your timing depending on the season.
Washing your hair not only clears out dirt and grime, it also helps to reset the pH of your scalp, which ideally is slightly acidic, at 5.5. When those levels are out of balance, the skin can become irritated and the hair dry, says De Oleo. To help your scalp return to its ideal pH, your water should be neutral, with a pH of 7, but shower water can contain heavy metals, chlorine and sediments that raise or lower that number. A filter, like those offered by the brands Canopy and Jolie, can offset these changes, leading to softer, less frizzy hair and a healthier scalp.
Steaming your hair amplifies the effects of regular and deep conditioners and those of protein treatments by lifting the cuticles so that the products can penetrate deeper into the hair shaft. Versions such as this one from Kingsteam can help you enjoy a salon-like experience at home, but if you don't want to splurge on a hooded dryer or heat cap, both Patterson and Starr suggest an easy, homemade solution: After applying a mask, put on a shower cap, wrap a hot, damp towel around it and top that with a second shower cap.