The rules of fake tan and how to get it right

Telegraph

26-05-2025

I'm not embarrassed to admit that I spent a large proportion of my twenties looking 50 shades of orange. A gung-ho approach to fake-tan application and youthful disregard for basic rules meant telltale streaks were a trademark and biscuit was my signature scent. Nothing gave me more pleasure than someone saying 'You look tanned', to which I would reply: 'Thanks, it's fake.' As if they didn't already know.
Like Claudia Winkleman, who once self-deprecatingly referred to herself as a 'tiny orange lady', I think there's something endearing about a tangerine tinge. However, when I left my twenties behind, I decided it was time to up my self-tanning game and focus on achieving what most people are after: a believable, healthy-looking bronze.
Luckily, my revelation coincided with a significant improvement in the tanning products available on the market. In recent years, the category has expanded significantly and products have become more sophisticated, from instant body bronzers that glide on and wash off to longer-term formulas that are worth the commitment.
'When the tanning industry stepped into the forefront of beauty 25 years ago there were only one or two brands,' says James Harknett, a sought-after spray tanning artist. 'Initially, self-tanners were in a white cream but the invention of a tinted guide colour meant you could see where you were applying.'
Since then, things have only improved. St. Tropez, perhaps the best-known name in fake tanning in the UK, has just released a hybrid tanning product – a no-rinse face serum that delivers instant bronze and develops over the space of a few hours. But just as important as using sophisticated products are the rules of application, starting with prep.
Prep
'A few days before application, start by smoothing out the skin with exfoliation,' says Harknett. 'Ensure that any hair removal is done well before you tan – 24 hours or more is best for shaving, or 48-72 hours for waxing.'
He recommends applying tan in a cool bathroom (without steam or humidity) and in front of a mirror with hair tied back, all jewellery removed, a little Vaseline applied over eyebrows and a towel on the floor beneath you. 'Next, moisturise the parts of the body that self tan grabs to, such as the heels, knee caps, elbows, hands and tops of feet,' he continues. James Read, who's worked in 'sunless tanning' for more than two decades, recommends the same approach, adding that a hydrating sheet mask can be useful when prepping the face.
Wash-off tan
Low-effort and suitable for the commitment-phobic, wash-off formulas are a godsend when it comes to bringing legs out of hibernation. 'Instant tans are so versatile and should be in everyone's tanning wardrobe,' says Harknett. 'They boost any skin tone or type and, when applied over existing self-tan, add depth and dimension.'
The best in the business as far as I'm concerned is By Terry's Tea to Tan, a matte mist that immediately brings pallid skin to life and genuinely feels like it does your skin good (it contains skincare ingredients including tea and cherry extracts). It's for both face and body, but don't let that put you off – it's just as good on a shoulder or leg as it is below a cheekbone. If its price prohibits liberal application, worthy alternatives are the This Works Perfect Legs Skin Miracle serum for a subtle effect, or Vita Liberata's Body Blur for more coverage.
Gradual tan
'Gradual gels and lotions are so lightweight now, and contemporary formulations are packed with hydrators, which make them popular with self-tanners who have drier skin types,' says Harknett. While they're more subtle than full-on tans, he still recommends taking your time blending product in, especially on knees and elbows.
The Telegraph 's beauty director Sonia Haria swears by the Golden Glow Gradual Tan by quiet-luxury brand Gatineau, a lightly moisturising body lotion that delivers 'just a hint of extremely natural-looking colour on the skin'. Tanning drops are another versatile alternative. 'You can really go in gently at first so that the finish isn't too far from your natural complexion,' says Harknett. 'Choose one with skincare benefits such as hyaluronic acid, and add to your facial serum or moisturiser.'
Full-on tan
When it comes to full-on fake tanning, Read recommends adopting a mentality of less is more, applying a fine layer of product that can always be topped up. 'With the face, start from the neck, then go up to the hairline, pressing the skin for extra absorption and working a small amount of moisturiser into the hairline itself to create a natural fade,' he says. 'When it comes to the body, use a tanning mitt, leaving the hands and feet till last and working the excess product over these areas.'
He recommends refraining from washing your hands, brushing your teeth, applying deodorant or putting a bra on straight afterwards, as each can result in paler patches. Exfoliating three to four days afterwards, in contrast, will ensure that the tan fades evenly.
If things go wrong, Read has some useful antidotes. 'Using a retinol is a great way to help take down an over-tanned face,' he says. 'If you have made a mistake on the body, lemon juice and baking soda can correct it. Using a steam room or going swimming will also help to fade a tan.' If only I'd known these tricks back in my tangerine days.