Summer Fragrances: Maximalist Scents Are Back

Forbes

2 days ago

EXTRAIT EXTRÊME, Black Guava. A "Beastmode" scent from Borntostandout.
It's an exciting time for the perfume industry, with several new summer fragrance trends emerging. One such new expression in today's aromatic landscape is the resurgence of bold, maximalist scents that make a strong statement, also known as 'beastmode' scents.
With so many new tendencies surfacing, it's not surprising that, according to Business of Fashion, beauty's most dynamic category is outperforming an otherwise cooling market, with no shortage of hopeful new brands or viral moments. A report by TFS reveals that, overall, the global fragrance market was valued at $64.4 billion in 2023, and Euromonitor International predicts sustained growth across price points in 2025, with double-digit growth in both mass (+10.8 %) and premium sectors (+12.2 %). The fragrance market is expected to hit $68.9 billion by the end of 2025.
Speaking with Jun Lim, founder of Bortostandout, he explains that these strong maximalist formulations are highly concentrated (usually a parfum or extrait strength in this category has a minimum oil concentration of 20% or more), plus they contain heavy-hitting notes like oud, amber, patchouli, or vanilla. These are materials that are characterized by their ability to adhere to the skin, persist for hours, and leave a lasting mark. He also tells me that what distinguishes these perfumes is their sillage, and how far the scent projects. 'If someone across the room can smell it? You're likely wearing a beastmode fragrance,' he says.
These bold compositions—such as those with heavy doses of oud, amber, vanilla or robust florals—are making a statement, reflecting a desire for extravagance and presence. They're loved by consumers who are looking for high-impact and long-enduring fragrances with intense sillage. As described to me over email by David Seth Moltz, co-founder of D.S. & Durga, 'some people like to make sure other people notice them'. He also adds that there are instances when these fragrances aren't the best choice, as they can 'ruin a restaurant experience or airplane ride real quick'.
Aitana López de Carrión, global fine fragrance development manager at CPL Aromas, tells me that one of the driving forces behind this trend is the influence of Middle Eastern perfumery, which is known for its generous use of scent and powerful ingredients—like leather, oud, saffron and amber—as well as attar, a natural perfume oil derived from herbs, spices, barks, flowers in bloom or other plant sources, best applied to pulse points. 'Over the last 30 years, we have seen a progressive increase in perfume concentrations with brands launching intense extract or elixir flankers,' says Aitana. Recent examples of this trend include Jo Loves Pomelo Oud, a vibrant fragrance that combines the zest of grapefruit with the luxurious depth of oud, symbolizing the union of old and new experiences, and D.S. & Durga's Amber Kiso, a striking scent with opening notes of indigenous Japanese cedar, incense and samara cypress that evokes a comforting warmth and soothes the senses, as it contains heart notes of maple, Asahi zuru, patchouli, and iris.
Long-lasting scents are another interesting sub-category emerging in this classification. It's an interesting concept where cologne and other fragrances, usually associated with being fresh, light and ethereal, become extreme, powerful and enduring. A good example is 7V Clementine Dream, which, as the founder Barb Stegemann explains on their website, took a year and a half to perfect through extensive lab longevity tests to ensure that the clean citrus scent lasts for 24 hours. 'Our signature 'boomerang' effect delivers an initial burst of bright, juicy citrus, then circles back with warm, grounding notes of cassis, magnolia, and vanilla,' she says.
Clementine Dream, The 7 Virtues, a long-lasting fragrance with citrus notes.
Brands like Massimiliano Torti blend ancient artisanal techniques to achieve this excellent longevity. They describe individuality as a ritual, layering as an art, and perceive every fragrance as a masterpiece. Their Nektar de Perfume features a high concentration of essential oils (30-40%), which creates a high-impact and prolonged fragrance. Another example is YSL's latest perfume, Muse, a beautiful unisex scent that features ink as its main inspiration and is infused with sensual bourbon vanilla absolute pods. Marie Salamagne, Parfumeur Principal, describes it as a scent where the ink reveals enigmatic woody notes and intimate, elegant smoky facets. 'For me, the ink takes on the colors of creativity and mystery. It stimulates the imagination," she says. The result is what Salamagne calls 'a skin scent that explodes' and what YSL describes as a fragrant tattoo with an impressive trail.
When discussing why maximalist fragrances are so in vogue, Jun Lin tells me that, from his perspective, this is the natural next step in the evolution of niche perfumery. He explains that once consumers get a taste for uniqueness, they want more. 'More drama, more intensity, more longevity. Beastmode fragrances are simply a reflection of that appetite,' he says. Jun tells me that the niche world is constantly pushing boundaries, and now we're seeing the rise of louder, wilder, bolder scents as part of that trajectory.
Amber Kiso, a maximalist fragrance from D.S. & Durga.
There are also several cultural forces converging to make beastmode fragrances so in vogue. Jun tells me that, aside from the Middle Eastern influence, consumers now want a bold presence. On social media platforms, especially on TikTok, the louder the fragrance, the more it gets shared. There's power in a perfume that fills a room, and people want to be part of that moment. He also explains that high-concentration, long-lasting fragrances offer great value, and that if one spray can last all day, it makes sense to invest in them. Finally, he describes fragrance as a way of self-branding. Wearing a bold scent says: 'I'm here, and I know who I am', he tells me, which resonates with some generations, especially younger consumers who want their fragrance to do more than just 'smell nice'.
The stronger the fragrance, the more complex its formulation will be, and when selecting a maximalist perfume, you're encouraged to try different options to ensure the fragrance you choose suits your personality. If you're looking for a summer fragrance in this category, you might opt for something modern and evocative, or perhaps you want to make a statement by wearing a fragrance with Middle Eastern influences. Talking to Lin, he explains that a true beastmode perfume should be well-structured. 'It should last, yes, but also evolve, tell a story, and never overwhelm just for the sake of it.'
YSL Muse Inspiring Ink, a long-lasting fragrance.