A Delicious Fortress In Malta

Forbes

a day ago

The relatively small island of Malta is home to a lot of world history. Given its strategic position in the Mediterranean, its residents did not fare well in World War II. However the country has made a great recovery since and its gorgeous harbors have endless views and its urban areas are home to a number of UNESCO heritage sites.
While it is beautiful to gaze upon a historic building, it is even more fun to stay in one. That was the one-of-a-kind experience I had seeing the Cugó Gran Macina. The bulk of the hotel's 21 rooms are built into a fortress that dates back to the 16th Century and many of those rooms front on the harbor. The hotel is located in the historic town of Senglea, one of the official 'Three Cities of Malta."
The building that the Cugo Gran Macina is currently housed in was a former British naval fortress constructed in 1554, by the Knights of St. John, that has been meticulously restored to retain its original grandeur while incorporating subtle, and useful, contemporary elements.
I was curious as to how the restaurant's intimate dining space the Little Bastion synergized with the building itself in terms of both style and atmosphere.
Two of my favorite foods at the restaurant were the crunchiest rolls I have ever experienced and a Trompe-l'œil take on watermelon posting as tuna for vegan guests. So, I sat down with the head chef Johann Costa to discuss his menu. All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.
Liza B. Zimmerman: How is the restaurant influenced by the age of the structure that the hotel was built in?
Johann Costa (J.C.): The Little Bastion is shaped by the history that surrounds it. Built within a set of centuries-old fortifications, the restaurant reflects the charm and character of the original structure—its limestone walls, vaulted ceilings and timeless atmosphere. This historic setting creates a unique and intimate dining experience, where our food pays respect to local tradition while bringing in fresh, modern flavors.
L.B.Z.: How has the food evolved since the restaurant's opening?
J.C.: Since the opening, our food has grown more refined and we still focus on fresh ingredients and bold Mediterranean flavor. We also put a lot of care into seasonality by working closely with local suppliers, farmers and fishermen.
L.B.Z.: How traditionally Maltese is the food?
J.C.: Our food is mainly Mediterranean, but it's strongly influenced by Maltese traditions. We use lots of local ingredients and traditional cooking methods. While the menu isn't focused exclusively on Maltese cuisine, we ensure there is always a touch of our roots present as those flavors are an important part of it. For larger events, guests sometimes ask for a traditional Maltese menu and we're happy to offer a special set menu with classic Maltese dishes.
L.B.Z.: How does being located in such an ancient place in Malta affect the food?
J.C.: The history around us reminds us to honor local ingredients, traditions and the people who came before us. It pushes us to create food that feels timeless, not just trendy.
L.B.Z.: How does the structure of the hotel blend into and support the vibe of the restaurant?
J.C.: The hotel and the restaurant are not separate entities—they're part of a magnificent fortress. The Little Bastion has inherited the hotel's atmosphere of calm luxury and immense history. The bastion, the fortifications, the views all shape the mood for diners. It's a space where architecture and cuisine echo one another as both are steeped in tradition and designed to be quietly extraordinary.