Ratatouille and le grand aïoli: Matthew Ryle's classic French dishes for Bastille Day

The Guardian

2 days ago

When writing recipes, it's good to get into the right headspace. The sky's clear, it's warm out (maybe not quite hot enough for my liking) and I'm sitting in the sun, possibly with a glass of rosé in hand. I'm transported to the French Riviera, and that glamorous, sun-drenched coastline, and it's the perfect setting for two of the most summery French classics: ratatouille and grand aïoli, especially in the run-up to Bastille Day on 14 July. Ratatouille is a glorious riot of stewed vegetables, and I like to serve it with a vibrant French take on pesto. Le grand aïoli, meanwhile, is a feast of seasonal veg, boiled eggs, anchovies and plenty of garlicky mayo for dipping. Both make brilliant centrepieces, or to serve alongside your next barbecue.
Originating from the south of France, this is the sunny summer counterpart to a charcuterie board. It's a stunning spread centred around a rich, garlicky mayonnaise, as well as a celebration of vibrant seasonal vegetables, boiled eggs, salty anchovies and optional poached fish. Perfect for sharing, this Provençal classic brings bright flavours and a relaxed spirit to the table. Keep it simple or go all out; either way, a beautifully arranged platter is always impressive. Once you master the aïoli, you'll find endless excuses to enjoy it beyond this dish – it's truly addictive.
Prep 10 minCook 30 min
Serves 4
For the aïoli2 egg yolks
20ml white-wine vinegar
10g dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely grated10g confit garlic (optional)340ml rapeseed oil
10ml lemon juice
Sea salt and black pepper
For the salad2 baby gem lettuces1 fennel bulb, trimmed
½ cucumber
1 bunch radishes
50g green beans, blanched1 small handful young fresh pea pods (about 10 in total), split open but left unpodded
1 small handful baby carrots (about 10 in total), trimmed4 eggs
8 anchovy fillets – any good ready-to-eat ones will do
First make the aïoli. Put the egg yolks, vinegar, mustard, grated garlic and confit garlic, if using, in a blender or stick-blender jug. Start blending to break down and combine, then, with the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil until the mixture thickens to a mayo-like consistency. Add the lemon juice to loosen it slightly; if it's still too thick and you run out of lemon juice, add a splash of water. Continue blending until all the oil is incorporated and you have a thick, glossy aïoli. Taste, adjust the seasoning, if need be, then transfer to a bowl (if you're making the aïoli ahead of time, cover and refrigerate).
Wash and dry all the raw vegetables, then cut the lettuce, fennel and cucumber into bite-sized pieces.
Carefully drop the eggs into a pan of boiling water, cook for eight minutes, then lift out and drop into iced water to cool. Carefully peel the eggs, then cut them in half.
Arrange all the vegetables neatly on a large platter, and place the halved eggs yolk side up in and around them. Drape an anchovy fillet over the top of each egg and serve with the bowl of aïoli alongside, ready for dipping.
Ratatouille, the classic Provençal vegetable stew, is bursting with the flavours of summer. Traditionally from Nice, it's ideal for sharing at sunny gatherings, both as a colourful side or as a light lunch in itself with some good bread for company. My take on it has a little twist in that it also features a homemade pipérade, a rich pepper and tomato sauce, as a flavourful base and it's finished with a bright basil pistou, to create a dish that looks stunning and tastes even better. Every bite should take you straight to the south of France.
Prep 30 minCook 40 min
Serves 4
For the pipérade20ml olive oil
90g red onion (about ½ onion), peeled and thinly sliced15g garlic (about 3 cloves), peeled and thinly sliced220g red pepper (about 2), stalks, seeds and pith removed and discarded, flesh thinly sliced220g yellow pepper (about 2), stalks, seeds and pith removed and discarded, flesh thinly slicedSea salt and pepper2 tsp smoked paprika
400g tin chopped tomatoes
15ml red-wine vinegar
5g basil leaves (about 1 tbsp)
For the ratatouille1 small aubergine (about 150g)
2 medium courgettes (about 100g each)
4 plum tomatoes25ml olive oil
For the pistou70g basil leaves (from about 1 big bunch)50ml olive oil
½ garlic clove, finely grated
Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
Start with the pipérade, which, if need be, can be made well in advance. Put the olive oil in a large wide saucepan on a medium heat. Once hot, add the onion and garlic, and cook gently, stirring, for five minutes, until softened. Turn up the heat, add the sliced peppers, season lightly and cook, still stirring, until they soften. Stir in the smoked paprika, cook, stirring, for two minutes, then add the chopped tomatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Finish with the red-wine vinegar and basil, season to taste and set aside.
Now start the ratatouille. Cut the aubergines, courgettes and tomatoes into 5mm-thick slices. Spread the pipérade in the base of a 25cm x 20cm baking dish, then neatly arrange the sliced vegetables on top, alternating the slices to create a pretty pattern. Drizzle the olive oilall over the top, season generously, then cover with foil or a lid and bake in a 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 oven for 20 minutes. Remove the cover, bake for another 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and lightly caramelised, then remove and leave to cool.
For the pistou, put the basil and olive oil in a blender and blitz smooth. Add the grated garlic and the lemon zest and juice, and blend again.
Spoon the pistou generously over the baked ratatouille and serve while it's just-warm or at room temperature.,
Matthew Ryle is chef/partner at Maison François and Cafe François, both in London. His debut book, French Classics: Easy and Elevated Dishes to Cook at Home, is published next month by Bloomsbury at £26. To order a copy for £23.40, go to guardianbookshop.com