Inside the fitness trend taking Scotland by storm

The National

02-05-2025

Markus Stitz launched Bikepacking Scotland in 2017, a website designed to empower and inspire cyclists to take on more interesting routes, in addition to the daily commute. He's the author of cycling guides Bikepacking Scotland, Great British Gravel Rides, and soon-to-be-released Gravel Rides Cairngorms and Perthshire (released May 8). Guidebooks on Loch Lomond and the Trossachs and Argyll are also under way.
Markus grew up in Germany and has called Edinburgh home since 2009. He has completed many of Scotland's toughest cycle routes, including the Highland Trail, an off-road, self-supported mountain bike route that covers 550 miles and 16000 metres of ascent. From 2015-16 he cycled around the world on a single-speed bike. That's 34,097 kilometres, through 26 countries with no gears.
Despite his global travels, to Markus, there's nowhere quite like Scotland. 'Scotland is a perfect country for cycling,' he says. 'Our access rights are amazing. They're similar to Scandinavian countries, which are upheld as the best countries for outdoor activities. We've beautiful nature and no extreme frost or heat waves. We have all the top ingredients for being a really good place to cycle,' says Markus.
There are still gaps in the infrastructure he acknowledges, but he prefers to focus on the positives and the gains that have been made for safe cycling in the past few decades. Getting more people out and enjoying being on a bike is his main aim. 'I think the biggest problem we have at the moment in Scotland, but in other countries as well, is people are just not doing enough physical exercise,' he says.
(Image: Bikepacking Scotland) 'Essentially, we need to get more people on bikes. There will be a net positive, because people will be healthier, and happier as well. E-bikes are great, because they encourage people to try cycling and make it more inclusive. Cycling is not about the distance, how much climbing you do or how difficult the terrain is. It's about time well spent,' Markus says,'either with people having nice conversations or time by yourself for a little bit of headspace.'
Focussing on social cycling, last year Markus started the Edinburgh Dawn Patrol. This free twice-weekly cycle starts at 5.40am for a 30km lap of Edinburgh then a coffee stop, all before many of us are awake. If you'd like to try bike-packing, Markus recommends starting with a shorter trip and having a backup plan, like knowing where the train stations are.
'Three or four days is a good introduction; the first few days will be a learning experience. It's important to give yourself time to acclimatise and get into the flow.' Camping is not compulsory. He says: 'That's a misconception with bike packing. Some people prefer hotels, B&Bs or hostels, it's totally personal. And you don't need top notch gear when you start out.
Try things out, do a few trips to find out if you want to do more. It's the same with bikes. You don't need a super expensive bike to go bike packing. It can pretty much be any bike, as long as it's properly serviced with good tyres and working brakes.'
If you're still unsure, he suggests: 'Try a micro adventure. Experiment with putting a bag on your bike and go out for the day. There are lots of regions in Scotland that get overlooked and are great for cycling. Scotland has very few people living in a big country. Another cool thing is exploring all the historic ways by bike, like progress and military routes.
"In Germany those routes existed but they've all been paved over, with 83 million people in a small country, there's not much room for wild places. In Scotland they're all still here and you can go out and find them.'
Tempted? Here are some routes to inspire plans for your next adventure.
(Image: Bikepacking Scotland)
Go East Lothian Trail
This route can be explored as a loop, starting and finishing in North Berwick, or one way, from North Berwick to Dunbar. The route links quiet roads, gravel tracks and cycle paths and is suitable for gravel, mountain and e-mountain bikes. Along the route there are gorgeous beaches to stop at, including Seacliff, Tyninghame, Belhaven and Yellowcraig, and you're never far from cafes for the all-important cake stops. The trail along the River Tyne to Preston Mill and Phantassie doocot is particularly lovely. Regular trains run from Edinburgh to North Berwick and Dunbar and bike hire is possible in both towns.
bikepackingscotland.com/eastlothian
John Muir Way
This is one of Scotland's Great Trails. It's a coast-to-coast route, linking John Muir's birthplace of Dunbar in East Lothian to Helensburgh on the west coast, passing through Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. At 134 miles it may seem daunting and to cycle the whole route four to five days are advised, but the plentiful transport links make this fine to tackle in segments. Try the section between Linlithgow to South Queensferry for a day trip, using the train to travel back to your start point.
bikepackingscotland.com/johnmuirway
Capital Trail
A challenging route for advanced cyclists designed by Markus Stitz, the Capital Trail includes 6000m of ascent over 153 miles. Using a mix of forestry tracks, quiet roads and single-track mountain bike trails, the route starts and finishes on Edinburgh's Portobello beach after a big loop across Edinburgh, East Lothian and the Borders. Designed to take between two and four days, there are plenty of B&Bs and hotels on the route, if you don't fancy camping. Castles, hills, lochs, forests . . . this trail has it all – if your legs are up to the challenge!
bikepackingscotland.com/capitaltrail
(Image: Bikepacking Scotland)
Wild About Argyll Trail
Suitable for both gravel and mountain bikes, the Wild About Argyll Trail is an adventure on gravel tracks, forest roads, single trail, quiet roads and cycle paths. Covering 655 km (407 miles) the winding route begins and ends in Helensburgh and goes through Oban and over to the isle of Lismore, tracing the boundaries of Argyll. You can experience the beautiful Ardgartan Peninsula, the coastal roads of East Kintyre, the forests around Loch Awe and Glen Nant National Nature Reserve. Ride the whole route or choose sections that appeal – either way you'll be sure to experience Argyll in a new way.
bikepackingscotland.com/argyll
Cairngorms National Park Loop
Over four (or more) days, take on a 165-mile loop of the Cairngorms National Park. Beginning and ending at Aviemore train station, the route goes via Blair Atholl, Braemar, and Tomintoul, through some of Scotland's most majestic scenery. The trail uses a mix of gravel trails, single tracks and quiet roads, including some sections of the Speyside Way. You can camp or stay in excellent youth hostels on route (with helpful drying rooms). There are bike hire and repair shops in Aviemore, Kingussie, Ballater and Boat of Garten. Make sure to include stops at some of the area's great cafes too.
bikepackingscotland.com/cairngorms
Hebridean Way
One of Scotland's most iconic road cycles, The Hebridean Way starts on the Island of Vatersay at the southern tip of the Hebridean archipelago and ends 185 miles north at the Butt of Lewis lighthouse. After your ferry to Barra from Oban, the route includes two more ferries and six causeways linking 10 islands, and four to six days are recommended for your adventure. It's a visually stunning route, meandering along white sandy beaches, turquoise sea and flowering machair (when the weather is in your favour!). To make life easier, Hebridean Hopscotch Holidays and Skinny Tyres offer Hebridean Way holiday cycling packages, which include your accommodation, ferries, bike-hire and luggage transfer.
visitouterhebrides.co.uk/hebrideanway/cycling