Review: Erewhon, a taste of L.A.'s celebrity grocery scene

Los Angeles Times

21 hours ago

Imagine this:
You are in your late teens/early 20s, navigating through new adulthood, and grocery shopping has been just about the last thing on your mind. After scrolling on Pinterest for recipes and looking at your overdue grocery list, you drag yourself to go to the grocery store and pick up your basic items: an assortment of vegetables, fruits, milk, proteins, eggs, snacks, and perhaps a quick drink for the sum of about $30-$45.
Trader Joe's, Ralphs, and Stater Bros. might get the groceries you need for the week at a price you wouldn't mind paying. However, the trendy and macrobiotic grocery store next door promises celebrity-endorsed collagen-packed smoothies, hyper-oxygenated water, and supplements to turn you into the next supermodel. But here's the catch: it will cost you 20x more, all in the name of celebrity diets and optimized health.
Erewhon has become a trend, a lifestyle, and a culture that the masses want to replace their average grocery store with. Grass-fed wagyu sliders and a $98 extra-virgin olive oil have replaced necessities and last-minute grocery store snacks. Their famous $20 celebrity-collaboration smoothies and plethora of foods for every occasion have revolutionized Erewhon as a grocery store for members of the highest tax bracket and a hot spot of LA's social scene.
As a Los Angeles native and plant-based eater, Erewhon has always been on my bucket list. Their food spans all cuisines and caters to every dietary restriction. Having seen the controversy Erewhon has created, I decided to put its food to the test. As I walked in, I was greeted with their $200 tote bags and $30 flowers. How cute!
I ordered four items: the Hailey Bieber strawberry smoothie, the gluten-free mac n cheese, buffalo cauliflower, and the organic Asian tofu sticks from their hot bar. My portions were smaller, and since they determined the price of food by the pound, while still expensive, I thought it would be no more than $40.
I was wrong.
The grand total of a singular plate and smoothie turned out to be $80. I was only left with $5 in my bank account, but I had hoped its collagen-infused drinks and 100% organic foods would make me feel and look like LA's best. While I did feel guilty, I reminded myself this was solely for research purposes … wink wink.
First up on the list was Hailey Bieber's smoothie that made every teenage girl suddenly go feral for strawberries and coconut cream (me included). I took my first sip, and although I didn't want to admit it, it was worth every penny of the $20 spent. I would like to say the Strawberry Surfrider from Jamba Juice is a good alternative, but I would be lying to you. This drink was everything I needed. Creamy, sweet, thick, and the best part was I felt good about drinking it. Perhaps it was because every supplement known to man was packed into a 20-ounce cup. The harmonious blend of strawberries and cream hit my taste buds the right way. I was in love. Well done, Hailey.
(Photo by Kavya Thakrar)
After downing my smoothie, I moved on to the mac n cheese from my hot plate; it looked promising. It had a thick crust on the top and was still piping hot. I took my first bite, and although I had high expectations, I was considerably disappointed. That singular bite was $5 wasted. It was bland, and let's just say I would prefer Kraft over this any day. My final verdict: pasta is better with gluten.
Before trying the buffalo cauliflower, I tried to get every last drop of my smoothie to justify the financial damage done. The cauliflower was home to the tiniest section of my hot bar container, with about four pieces. However, before I knew it, those four pieces were gone. Buffalo cauliflower is a generic menu item, an All-American appetizer if you will.
While this cauliflower didn't necessarily stand out from the other cauliflower dishes I have tried (and being plant-based, it's a lot), it was still incredibly delicious. The spicy buffalo coating was paired incredibly well with the crispy bite of the cauliflower. Needless to say, I can understand why it's a fan favorite, and I would've enjoyed a few more pieces.
After trying the viral items, I moved on to the organic Asian tofu sticks. I consider myself a tofu connoisseur; however, I've never seen a tofu like this before. I was a little apprehensive about trying these, as it was a last-minute purchase, and I wasn't sure if $20 could justify three cold tofu sticks relished in sauce.
But when I took my first bite, my life changed forever.
The tofu was the cherry on top and somewhat justified the price. It was a blend of your signature Asian flavors paired with the interesting texture of firm tofu. If you like tofu, you know it's either a hit or miss. When going to most restaurants, tofu is slapped on the menu so the franchise can be regarded as 'plant-based friendly.' Those were the expectations I had for Erewhon, but it more than surpassed them. The deep blend of flavors from the rich marinade kept me wanting more, and by the time the tofu itself was down, I was savoring every last bit of the sauce.
(Photo by Kavya Thakrar)
Did I like Erewhon? Could I say I enjoyed the $80 meal I was hesitant about trying before? That's a trick question…the answer is both yes and no.
All in all, Erewhon has exceeded the norms of what a grocery store should be, including its high quality items, outrageous prices, and celebrity sightings. Was it worth the hype? Yes. Worth financial ruin to be my go-to grocery store? Probably not. Still, if you're ever in LA and want to taste what your favorite influencers and celebrities love to indulge in, and perhaps even a chance to see them, Erewhon is the place for you. Start adding funds to your piggy bank and see if it's worth the global hype. Related