Japan's Best Food Destination Is Less Than 2 Hours From Tokyo—and It Has a Cat Island, Samurai History, and Bubbling Mountain Hot Springs

Travel + Leisure

4 days ago

Top 5 Can't Miss Sleep on the shores of one of Japan's most scenic bays in the upscale Matsushima Sakan Shoan ryokan.
Discover the spectacular seascapes and storied history of the Tōhoku coast by hiking along the Michinoku Coastal Trail.
Eat your fill of soba noodles at Azumaya Soba, an Iwate prefecture staple for over a century.
Visit in spring or fall for cherry blossoms and changing colors, or come in winter to see snow monsters and ski your heart out.
Soak up onsen culture at Ginzan, one of Japan's most enchanting bathing destinations.
We get it—no one visiting Japan wants to miss the chance to stroll through the winding streets of Kyoto or to hike the summit of Mount Fuji, despite the crowds. But you can escape the throngs of fellow travelers without missing out on those classic Japanese experiences. Just head north to Tōhoku.
Spanning six prefectures that cover the entire northern tip of Honshu, Tōhoku is one of Japan's most overlooked regions. Home to less than 10 percent of the population, it's an outdoor lover's dream, with cloud-piercing peaks, lakes, dense forests, offshore archipelagos, warm hot springs, and epic coastlines. Tōhoku encompasses a fifth of Japan's landmass, so there's plenty of room to roam.
But that doesn't mean it's lacking in culture, either. Tucked between stratovolcanoes and mystical mountain ranges, you'll find ramen-rich cities, Edo-era villages, heritage sake breweries, and ornamental temples. There are many festivals throughout the year that celebrate the region's unique folkloric traditions, and historic districts that date back to feudal times when samurai lords ruled, earning Tōhoku the nickname 'the land of the samurai.'
'Tōhoku is very special because we only have about two percent of all the inbound guests who travel to Japan,' says Katy Shina, a tour guide at Northern Japan Horizons and Tōhoku travel expert who has lived in the region since 2012. 'The locals are very friendly and welcoming to people who want to know more about the culture up here.'
On the international stage, Tōhoku may ring a bell as the site of the 2011 Fukushima disaster and the region hardest hit by the earthquake and tsunami. But over a decade has passed; Tōhoku has since rebuilt and recovered, and patiently awaits travelers.
Here's everything you need to know before planning a trip to Tōhoku, Japan.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Skyline of Sendai in the Tohoku region of Japan.
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Matsushima Sakan Shoan
Enjoy the becalming vistas of Matsushima Bay from this 11-room luxury ryokan, with traditional Japanese or blended Japanese and Western-style rooms. Kaiseki meals showcase local seafood, and you can soak in onsen baths after strolling the grounds' pine-lined nature trails.
The Park Hotel Jodogahama
Stay just steps from one of Japan's most breathtaking beaches at the upscale Park Hotel Jodogahama. Peeking out from the trees atop Jodogahama Hill, it overlooks this stunning stretch of coastline, whose turquoise waters, sun-bleached rocks, and pebbly beaches recall the Mediterranean. After a day exploring Miyako Bay, return to warm onsen water, craft sake sips, and a variety of dining choices.
Fujiya
When this modern take on the classic ryokan opened in Ginzan, it caused a stir with its contemporary design. Its elegant, minimalist spaces exude calm and distraction-free relaxation, with on-site kaiseki dining and dreamy hot springs baths. For a more classic ryokan stay, try Notoya and Ginzan-so.
Best Things to Do
A landscape view of Lake Towada.
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization
Hike the Michinoku Coastal Trail.
Stretching over 600 miles along the eastern seaboard, the Michinoku Coastal Trail launched in 2019 to aid with post-2011 recovery. See the colossal sea cliffs of Kitayamazaki Cape, trek through tunnels carved into coastlines, and enjoy some culture along the way, with stops in seaside villages or visits to landmarks like the Iwate Tsunami Memorial Museum. Tackle the trail in its entirety (a 50-odd day commitment) or do day hikes, with guided tours available through companies like Shina's Northern Japan Horizons.
Island-hop around Matsushima Bay.
'Matsushima, aah! Matsushima! Matsushima!' This haiku by Japanese poet Bashō perfectly sums up the experience of first seeing Matsushima Bay: abject awe. Over 200 pine-covered islands sit scattered around this sun-dappled bay near Sendai. Take a sightseeing cruise for the full spectacle, or hop on a ferry to explore the islands themselves. A bit further up the coast, take a detour to the Tashirojima Cat Island, famed for its more than 700 resident felines.
Dive into Tōhoku's great outdoors.
From sea to summit, Tōhoku's wild places stun. Sail around the Lake Towada caldera, follow pilgrimage routes on the sacred slopes of the Three Mountains of Dewa, and hike through the forested mountains of Towada-Hachimantai National Park. Think Hokkaido is the only place in Japan to hit the slopes? Think again. Tōhoku is one of Japan's snowiest regions, making it a prime destination for powder hounds who favor ski resorts like Zaō Onsen Ski Resort and Appi Kogen. At the end of the day, head to an onsen for a restorative soak—if your hotel doesn't have one on the property, you'll likely find one nearby.
Step back in time in samurai districts, preserved villages, and stately castles.
In Aizu-Wakamatsu, also known as 'Samurai City,' roam the grounds of Tsuruga Castle, explore the thatch-roofed village of Ouchi-juku, and soak in the same waters as samurai lords once did at Higashiyama onsen. The UNESCO-recognized gardens and temples of Hiraizumi, Hirosaki Castle, and the 'Little Kyoto' Kakunodate district are other highlights.
Connect to Tōhoku's heritage at the region's renowned festivals.
Join in the revelry of Tōhoku's celebrated summer festivals, most of which take place in late July or early August. Watch processions of glowing pole lanterns at the Akita Kanto Festival, marvel at the colorful floats of the Aomori Nebuta Matsuri, and see Sendai explode with kaleidoscopic decorations during the Tanabata Festival.
Best Places to Eat
Bowls of soba being prepared at Azumaya Soba.
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization
Iwate Wagyu beef, artisanal sake, and succulent seafood are some of Tōhoku's culinary stars. As you explore, feast on regional delicacies like koji-enhanced products (koji is a type of mold culture critical in producing staples like soy sauce, miso paste, and sake), fresh Matsushima Bay oysters, and hoya sea squirts, which are affectionately known as "sea pineapples."
L'aureole Tanohata
This remote restaurant on the Iwate coast is a bit out of the way, but it's worth the trip to try chef Katsuyasu Ito's cross-cultural fare, showcasing Tohokan ingredients prepared with a French flair. Perched high atop a cliff overlooking the ocean, the views aren't half bad either.
Kesennuma Fish Market and Umi no Ichi
The Miyagi prefecture town of Kesennuma is one of Japan's biggest fishing ports, making its seafood market a must-visit. After watching the catch of the day come in, head to the neighboring Umi no Ichi food and shopping hall to grab a bowl of sea-to-table kaisendon: slices of sashimi, jewel-like roe, and other oceanic delights atop a bed of rice.
Miroku Yokocho
Yokochos—narrow alleyways filled with small eateries and watering holes—are a staple of Japanese dining culture, and the northern port city of Hachinohe has some of the most charming in the region. Miroku Yokocho is among the most popular, and it's packed with snug izakayas and food stalls slinging sashimi, ramen, sake, and beer.
Azumaya Soba
Try all-you-can-eat wanko soba noodles, a regional specialty, at this Iwate eatery, which has been around since 1907.
Shiogama-ko Sushi
Hailed as Japan's sushi capital due to its plethora of sushi spots, Shiogama needs to be on every Tōhoku-bound foodie's itinerary. Out of the many restaurants to choose from, Shiogama-ko Sushi is a favorite. Don't be fooled by the casual, conveyor belt set-up; diners rave about its excellent quality and freshness.
Best Time To Visit
Spring cherry blossoms in Tohoku, Japan.
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization
'Season-wise, anytime of the year is great and has different offerings,' says Shina. Spring (March to May) and fall (August to October) are best for hiking and watersports while avoiding the worst of summer's high temperatures and humidity. Spring comes with the added bonus of catching the cherry blossom bloom in mid-April, and seeing the Dragon's Eye lake atop Mount Hachimantai. Fall offers some of Japan's best leaf-peeping in places like Aomori and Miyagi's Naruko Gorge.
Apart from skiing, winter (December through March) is also worth a trip for snowy onsen visits, wintry landscapes, and seeing the region's famous "snow monsters," aka snow-encrusted trees frozen into fantastical shapes by frigid Siberian winds. Mount Zaō, Mount Miroyoshi, and the Hakkoda Mountains are among the best places to witness this phenomenon.
How to Get There
A crowd waits for a train approaching a station in Tohoku, Japan.
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization
The best way to reach Tōhoku is by first flying into Tokyo, to either Narita International Airport (NRT) or Haneda Airport (HND), and then getting to Tōhoku by train or another quick flight. Sendai Airport (SDJ) is Tōhoku's biggest airport, but there are smaller airports in each prefecture.
Japan's high-speed bullet train, the Shinkansen, has three routes throughout the region, with stops in major cities like Sendai, Yamagata, and Akita. The trip from Tokyo to Sendai takes about an hour and a half. 'Getting to Tōhoku is easy using the bullet train from Tokyo, but once here, public transport in some areas can be limited,' says Shina. 'Make sure to do your research in advance, or book a trip with a local guide.'
Cities to Visit
Fall foliage in the village of Ginzan, Japan.
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Ginzan
This mountain onsen area is like something straight out of a Miyazaki film, with storybook ryokans crowding together over a bridge-crossed river. A former silver mining town, people now come here for the renowned baths, strolling the pedestrian-only city center in yukata (a summer kimono) garb. A popular spot, it can get crowded, but the atmosphere is worth it.
Sendai
As Tōhoku's biggest metropolis, the southern city of Sendai is a great jumping-off point. A former samurai stronghold, there are castles, temples, and mausoleums to tour, signature dishes like gyutan (grilled beef tongue), craft beer, and fabulous festivals.
Yamagata
With hiking and skiing in the Ōu Mountains and historic landmarks like Yamagata Castle and the Yamadera summit temple, Yamagata appeals to nature lovers and culture aficionados alike. Photographers flock here in fall to snap pictures of the changing foliage, and ramenheads will find themselves in good company—Yamagata consistently tops the charts as the city that consumes the most ramen in Japan, and has declared itself the 'ramen capital" of the country.
Kesennuma
While hit hard in 2011, this charming port city has bounced back to become one of the region's underrated gems. Grab a bite to eat at Cafe K-Port (opened by actor Ken Watanabe of The Last Samurai), head to the Mishione Yokocho for drinks at Prism, and seek out art and history at the Rias Ark Museum and the Kesennuma City Memorial Museum.
How to Get Around
An empty road lined with cherry blossoms lead to a mountain Japan's Tohoku region.
Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization
Using the Tōhoku Shinkansen (a five-day pass costs around $200) and regional Japan Rail lines, you can navigate up and down the region with ease. But if you want to reach more remote interior places like national parks or onsens, it's best to rent a car. Around towns and cities, you can rely on local buses or taxis. 'There is not as much English signage up here, but people are friendly, so don't be afraid to ask questions, use body language, or a translation device,' says Shina.